Help me make wise decisions - First timer

esteban
esteban Solar Expert Posts: 66 ✭✭✭✭
First post, I'm sure it will be long!

I have always been a tinkerer, I love playing with electronics, I'm even a licensed low voltage contractor in Nevada (Reno).

I really have no reason or need to have PV, other than I like playing with stuff, I think one day it would nice to be independent from the grid and I suppose I'm sort of a "prepper" or "what if" kind of guy. I like knowing I'll have power/food/water/safety regardless of the circumstance. More or less I like to be as self sufficient as possible!

First off I fully understand that me building an off grid or possibly grid tied with battery backup system is nowhere near cost effective, I live on grid in a normal suburban neighborhood and power is cheap and plentiful. Heck my girlfriend probably burns more power with a hair straightener and blow dryer than any PV system can generate :)

That being said I've always wanted to do it, even if its just to power some junk in the garage, maybe my office, MacBook air, cable modem and wireless router etc.

I've been looking into it for a while, but this week I found a deal I personally couldn't pass up. Locally I was able to pick up 8 BP 36v 175w panels (1400w total) for $700. They have a few years of use on them but my take is who cares, $0.50 a watt is cheap enough, and no shipping etc. It was worth it to me.

I may pick up one more from the seller, just so I could run 3 strings of 3. My other option is to run 2 strings of 3 and give my mom the other 2 panels, she wants to tinker around too. Basically I'll either run 1050w or 1575w, granted both are probably overkill but who knows??

I assume with that much PV I may as well hop up to 48v, 24v seems to be close to its limit and I don't want to wish I had later (opinions welcome here).

I was thinking I'd grab the Midnite Solar Classic 150, then today came across the new Midnite Solar KID (just about to be released). Looks to me like the street price will be roughly $300, and it appears to have many great features. I could even get two for less than the Classic, however I'm not sure I fully understand which setup would benefit me the most?

My question really comes down to battery and inverter sizing, with 1000 or 1500 watts how much battery do I really need? I understand the idea of calculating daily need and having 3-5 days of reserve and wanting to stay above 50% DOD. However currently, I could go a year without needing solar at all, again as it stands this is really just for me to waste money and tinker. Sure I'd love to use it, but again it is NOT critical at all. This makes me think I could get away with a slightly smaller battery setup, thus keeping the price lower. But I don't want to do that at the cost of wishing I had gone bigger later etc.

I like the idea of the T105's, or even the RE version, locally the regular T105's can be had for $108, a price that is hard to argue from my point of view. Slap 8 of them together and I've got 225AH at 48v, seems like I'd have a reasonable amount of power right? Granted I have no idea of what that would equate to in the real world. Clearly use a pure sine wave inverter etc, I suppose roughly 1000w??

Then there are the L-16's, which just seem overpriced to me, at that point I figure you just buy a forklift battery, and fortunately in Reno we have TONS of warehouses so I have to imagine there are plenty of forklift battery suppliers locally. I read the forklift battery idea is pretty darn foolproof. I'm certainly not the kind of guy to buy into the "high end" battery like a Rolls, I refuse to pay top dollar for a fancy battery.

So all in all, lets say you got a deal on 1000 - 1500 watts of solar panels, and thats all you had. You were completely capable of doing any and all of the setup and wiring.

What charge controller would you buy and why?

What batteries would you select and why?

What inverter and why?

Do I truly need a combiner? I haven't researched that aspect, I see the benefit but what stops me from just paralleling the strings and plugging right into the charge controller? I have to imagine there is a reason.


If you've made it this far thank you for reading! I'd love to get this stuff up and running, I don't mind buying things that allow me to expand, one day I may even go do grid tied with backup so I can lower my power bill a bit. That being said I'd just like to get things right the first time, I don't want to buy too small of a charge controller or too small of a battery bank and later wish I had spend a few extra bucks to do it right!
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Comments

  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer

    Welcome to the forum.

    With eight true 24 Volt panels you have more options than you think. And some of those options depend on what system Voltage you use.

    Some basics on array configuration: http://forum.solar-electric.com/showthread.php?16241-Different-Panel-Configurations-on-an-MPPT-Controller

    And some on system Voltage selection: http://forum.solar-electric.com/showthread.php?15989-Battery-System-Voltages-and-equivalent-power

    Eight 175 Watt panels being 1400 Watts you could, through an MPPT type controller, supply:
    12 Volt system with 90 Amps for 900 Amp hours (not recommended)
    24 Volt system with 45 Amps for 450 Amp hours (good choice; works with GC2 batteries)
    48 Volt system with 22.5 Amps for 225 Amp hours (viable with GC2's but more expensive equipment)

    For all but the 48 Volt system you would need a combiner box for the array. Any way you look at it you'd have about 2.7 kW hours stored power at 25% DOD; a good size off-grid system.

    I would avoid forklift batteries as they are definitely not 'foolproof'. The GC2's are really cheap for the amount of power they provide. Forget the '3-5 days reserve' as that is a formula for an over-sized system (waste of money).

    As for which controller, if you don't go any bigger and pick 48 Volts you'd use a Rogue 3048 or MidNite's Kid (both 30 Amp units). For 24 Volts go up to a 60 Amp unit like the Outback FM60 or Morningstar TriStar MPPT 60 or even the top-end MidNite Classic.

    What inverter you pick depends on what you intend to power with it. It has to have the capacity to handle the full Watts demand. Sine wave is preferable over MSW because there's no question about waveform quality vs. what you run. Beyond that, invest in the future and avoid the low-dollar "no-name" stuff. You may not need an inverter-charger for what you want to do either; that shaves a lot off the price.

    Anyway some things to consider.
  • esteban
    esteban Solar Expert Posts: 66 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer

    Thanks for the reply! I'm going to read through the links you provided but in the meantime, you mention "eight true 24 volt panels", can you explain?? As far as I understand I've got eight 36 volt panels??
  • esteban
    esteban Solar Expert Posts: 66 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer

    Also:

    24 Volt system with 45 Amps for 450 Amp hours (good choice; works with GC2 batteries)
    48 Volt system with 22.5 Amps for 225 Amp hours (viable with GC2's but more expensive equipment)

    What is more expensive??? The inverter??

    Assuming I used either the Midnite Solar Classic 150 or the new KID controller, the cost is identical, and I'd be using the same number of batteries so where is the cost disadvantage to 48v? I'd think it should be relatively identical, and much more efficient?
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer
    esteban wrote: »
    Thanks for the reply! I'm going to read through the links you provided but in the meantime, you mention "eight true 24 volt panels", can you explain?? As far as I understand I've got eight 36 volt panels??

    For a 24 Volt system to charge properly the Vmp of the panel needs to be 35-36 Volts. Otherwise you can end up with insufficient Voltage by the time you get to the batteries (from all-parallel configuration). There are some panels called "24 Volt" which in fact have a Vmp of 30 or even less which are not sufficient to charge a 24 Volt system unless used in series through an MPPT controller.

    Likewise a "12 Volt" panel will have a Vmp of 17-18. The panel Voltage rating is nominal and pertains to the system (battery) Voltage.
  • esteban
    esteban Solar Expert Posts: 66 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer
    For a 24 Volt system to charge properly the Vmp of the panel needs to be 35-36 Volts. Otherwise you can end up with insufficient Voltage by the time you get to the batteries (from all-parallel configuration). There are some panels called "24 Volt" which in fact have a Vmp of 30 or even less which are not sufficient to charge a 24 Volt system unless used in series through an MPPT controller.

    Likewise a "12 Volt" panel will have a Vmp of 17-18. The panel Voltage rating is nominal and pertains to the system (battery) Voltage.

    My panels have a Vmp of 35.7, and I understand what you are saying however I was under the impression I'd be running them in series to push my input voltage into an MPPT controller up around 100+vdc? This would negate the Vmp issue right?

    Maybe I'm not getting what you are saying, you mention an all parallel configuration, which I can't imagine why I would do that as it would just raise my amperage a ton??
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,590 admin
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer

    People look at the Vmp-panel (Voltage maximum power) or Voc-panel (Voltage open circuit) and sometimes call that the voltage of the panel.

    In real life, Vmp falls as the panels get hot (under full sun). So, to charge a 12 volt battery, you need aproximatly 15 volts at the battery and even a bit more for wiring/controller voltage drop.

    It works out that for nominal 12 volt battery bank you want a Vmp-panel to be in the range of 17.5 to 18.6 volt or so (typically 36 solar cells in series with 0.5 volt Vmp per cell).

    When "we" talk about 12 or 24 volt panel, we are talking about panels with Vmp~18 volt or ~36 volts. There are a lot of panel with Vmp-panel of ~30 volts--And people think that will work with charging a 24 volt battery bank. Because a very hot panel (noon time sun during a summer day with no wind) the cells get high enough where the Vmp-panel-hot is ~80% of rate voltage or (30 Vmp * 0.80 derating due to heat=) ~24 volts Vmp-hot.

    Since a 24 volt battery needs, at the very least, around 28-29 volts to fully recharge (at ~77F battery temperature), we look for Vmp-array of ~35-39 volts to connect to a 24 volt battery bank through a PWM or MPPT type charge controller.

    If you have Vmp~30 volt panels, you need (at least) to panels in series for Vmp-array at standard conditions of Vmp~60 volts--And use a MPPT type charge controller (maximum power point tracking) to efficiently take high voltage/low current from the array and down convert to low voltage/high current for the battery bank.

    You could use a PWM (pulse width modulation) type charge controller to charge with a Vmp-array ~ 60 volts to a 24 volt battery bank, but you will lose ~1/2 of the array's output power by using a PWM controller.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer
    esteban wrote: »
    Also:

    24 Volt system with 45 Amps for 450 Amp hours (good choice; works with GC2 batteries)
    48 Volt system with 22.5 Amps for 225 Amp hours (viable with GC2's but more expensive equipment)

    What is more expensive??? The inverter??

    Assuming I used either the Midnite Solar Classic 150 or the new KID controller, the cost is identical, and I'd be using the same number of batteries so where is the cost disadvantage to 48v? I'd think it should be relatively identical, and much more efficient?

    The things that become expensive with 48 Volt systems are the fuses/breakers and disconnects; in order to handle the 60+ Volts the system actually can see they have to be rated for it. 24 Volt system pieces are easier and cheaper to come by. Most 48 Volt inverters are inverter-charger only (never seen one without a charger in it) which adds to cost. 24 Volt inverters can be had without built-in chargers.

    The Classic 150 handles 80 Amps. The Kid handles 30 (but can be paralleled with another later if desired). The Kid should be cheaper (I haven't seen a 'street price' yet).

    48 Volts is slightly more efficient, yes. But perhaps not enough to make it worthwhile. Again a major factor here is how much power is needed (both stored and delivered).
  • esteban
    esteban Solar Expert Posts: 66 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer

    I understand all that but I thought I had made it clear that I would be using 3 strings of 3 panels? This would give me a voltage of 100+. As I said I'd be using a Midnite Classic 150 or the new KID controller, both of which are MPPT.

    Doesn't this eliminate any argument of Vmp or Voc?? I don't see why I would ever want to run them all in parallel, I'd clearly want to run them in series to as high of a voltage as possible per the MPPT controller specs
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer
    esteban wrote: »
    My panels have a Vmp of 35.7, and I understand what you are saying however I was under the impression I'd be running them in series to push my input voltage into an MPPT controller up around 100+vdc? This would negate the Vmp issue right?

    Maybe I'm not getting what you are saying, you mention an all parallel configuration, which I can't imagine why I would do that as it would just raise my amperage a ton??

    You definitely do not want to run an array of 100+ Volts unless it is necessary due to wiring distance considerations: the higher the array Voltage is in respect to the system Voltage the less efficient the controller is because of having to do more work to down-convert the higher Voltage. Usually you don't go more than 2X system Voltage (as in a nominal 48 Volt array on a 24 Volt system).

    Read the links I gave you and I think you'll figure it out. :D
  • esteban
    esteban Solar Expert Posts: 66 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer
    You definitely do not want to run an array of 100+ Volts unless it is necessary due to wiring distance considerations: the higher the array Voltage is in respect to the system Voltage the less efficient the controller is because of having to do more work to down-convert the higher Voltage. Usually you don't go more than 2X system Voltage (as in a nominal 48 Volt array on a 24 Volt system).

    Read the links I gave you and I think you'll figure it out. :D

    Ok I'll check into that right now, but that being said I think I'd still want to run at a 48v battery bank and would then just run my panels in sets of 2 in series, thus giving me a theoretical 72v output, far above what is needed to charge a 48v bank correct?

    So if I used 8 panels (which I have) I could run 4 sets of 2 panels in series, then parallel all 4 sets correct? Does this make sense or am I missing it?
  • esteban
    esteban Solar Expert Posts: 66 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer

    Ok I just crudely made this, is this a "bad" setup?? Again I could replace the Classic 150 with the KID, but either way this seems to be the efficient way?

    Edit, I've posted two configurations, please tell me whether figure A (48v battery bank) or figure B (24v battery bank) would suit me best and why??

    I will look at doing it in 24v, but again it would be very similar wouldn't it?? Just eliminate the panels being in series and split the battery bank into two sets of 4 paralleled together correct?

    Figure A
    solarsetup.png


    Figure B
    24vsetup.png

    The downside I see here is going 24 volts creates just shy of 40 amps, whereas 48 volts is under 20 amps. Staying closer to 20 amps allows me to use the KID charge controller, thus saving me hundreds of dollars, and I'd assume that would cover costs of any more expensive breakers or fuses??

    Again the breaker/fuse part I have no knowledge of specifically.

    If the inverter is FAR more expensive and eliminates the difference in charge controller cost then it is negated anyway. My main argument for going 48v is the ability to expand later and still be able to use these components. Plus it seems almost everything I read is about how much better 48v is, and how many wish they had gone that route from the beginning
  • esteban
    esteban Solar Expert Posts: 66 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer

    Also no clue if this is a giant bucket of junk but I was basing my 48v inverter off of something like this:

    http://www.ecodirect.com/Cotek-S600R-148-600W-48V-Pure-Sine-Inverter-p/cotek-s600r-148.htm

    Granted I may go larger than 600w, but it appears there are many
  • esteban
    esteban Solar Expert Posts: 66 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer
    The things that become expensive with 48 Volt systems are the fuses/breakers and disconnects; in order to handle the 60+ Volts the system actually can see they have to be rated for it. 24 Volt system pieces are easier and cheaper to come by. Most 48 Volt inverters are inverter-charger only (never seen one without a charger in it) which adds to cost. 24 Volt inverters can be had without built-in chargers.

    The Classic 150 handles 80 Amps. The Kid handles 30 (but can be paralleled with another later if desired). The Kid should be cheaper (I haven't seen a 'street price' yet).

    48 Volts is slightly more efficient, yes. But perhaps not enough to make it worthwhile. Again a major factor here is how much power is needed (both stored and delivered).

    I missed this part, sorry!

    When you say fuses/breakers and disconnects that is an aspect I haven't covered in my head. What would I need both 24/48v? I guess I ignorantly assumed I could use a normal AC breaker box with some small 10A breakers for each string of panels between the panel and the charge controller and again breakers coming out of the inverter??

    I have my flame suit on, I assume this was vastly under thought. As you can see I'm still in the planning stage, haven't even decided on voltage! I have no qualms against 24v, it actually seems like it may have some benefit as simple things like cigarette lighter adapters for cars typically state 12-24vdc input, allowing me to charge small devices 'directly' from the battery bank whereas the 48v that wouldn't happen.
  • waynefromnscanada
    waynefromnscanada Solar Expert Posts: 3,009 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer
    esteban wrote: »

    When you say fuses/breakers and disconnects that is an aspect I haven't covered in my head. What would I need both 24/48v? I guess I ignorantly assumed I could use a normal AC breaker box with some small 10A breakers for each string of panels between the panel and the charge controller and again breakers coming out of the inverter??.
    I must caution you on two aspects of your proposed system.
    The first is that playing around with solar energy can very easily become an extreme addiction. I know that from personal experience, so be very careful! :D:D
    The second is a heads-up on dealing with the mechanical switching etc of DC circuits over 12 volts, and the higher the voltage the worse and more dangerous the problems become. Switching AC is comparatively very easy as every half cycle the voltage/current passes through zero, easily allowing the associated arc to be extinguished. With DC from solar panels etc however, there is no zero volts unless for the panels you cover them or night comes, and likewise, with a battery bank, if the batteries go dead. Thus a DC arc, once initiated, can sometimes be very difficult to extinguish. Such DC arcing can quickly destroy a non-DC rated switch or circuit breaker, or fuse, and go on to start a fire really quickly. As an educational experiment, place one of your panels in full sun with a couple of wires connected to the output. Make sure the wires are long enough that you're away from the panel when holding the ends, then touch them together and slowly bring them apart. You'll be amazed at the arc and the high temps it will produce. Now imagine what would happen if you had not one, but several panels wired together and did this, and if they were wired in series for higher voltages. You'll also quickly see why loose connections in a DC circuit can be one of your greatest enemies and should be one of your greatest fears.
    Sounds to me like you're about to start out on an amazing journey. I know that journey has been amazing for me.
    All the best and safe travels. :D
  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer
    esteban wrote: »
    Edit, I've posted two configurations, please tell me whether figure A (48v battery bank) or figure B (24v battery bank) would suit me best and why??

    In both configurations, you left out the combiner box.

    Another consideration is the battery bank. A single string of batteries is optimal. Therefore, on that basis I would recommend the 48 volt configuration. One thing in favor of a 24 volt system, is the potential to have fewer cells. This makes for fewer connections and easier maintenance, but you will be using larger, more expensive cells (not GC batteries). Fewer cells also means a longer lasting battery bank. explanation:

    No two battery cells are identical (half of all cells produced are below average!) There's virtually no chance that a 48 volt (or even a 24 volt) battery bank will be entirely composed of above average cells. Having even 23 of 24 cells above average does you no good because a battery bank is only as good as its weakest cell. So you can't realistically hope to have a battery with all above average cells, but what really matters is avoiding those outlier cells in the lowest percentiles. The more cells you have in your battery bank, the greater the chance of having an outlier cell, and the more likely your battery bank will have a below average lifespan. Statistically, the longest lived battery bank will have the fewest cells. Of course a 2 volt system voltage is impractical.... a good design compromise is to use a single string of cells at the lowest voltage that is practical for your power needs.

    Regarding the inverter, you will be much happier with an inverter/charger. Not just because of the charger, but these inverters have many more features. You have grid available... read a little about hybrid inverters before you invest.

    Where will you mount your panels? You should have your combiner box with a lightning arrester outside your home. btw, if you go with a 48 volt system, three panels in series will be OK. I wouldn't do three in series with a 24 volt system.

    Take a look at Midnite's ePanel and download their ePanel wiring diagrams. You will learn a lot about the buses, breakers, shunts, and bypasses that you will need. They sell the ePanel as a kit with all components needed for the particular inverter/charger that you want.

    Finally, how will you integrate your system into your present house wiring? Will you set up a separate AC distribution panel? Depending on what you do, you may need some transfer switches to keep your inverter and the grid apart. Inverter/chargers have built-in transfer switches.

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer

    #1 AC rated switches/breakers/fuse will not handle the same power on DC.
    #2 You could use two of your panels in series for a 48 Volt system as it meets the minimum Vmp requirement.
    #3 Your 24 Volt design will have all eight in parallel, which increases the current from the combined panels to the controller. This has an effect on Voltage drop between the two: it increases it for a given wire size and distance. The '48 Volt' array would also work for a 24 Volt system and with less V-drop.
    #4 Your 24 Volt battery design looks like two separate banks. I presume you didn't mean it too.
    #5 What vtmaps said: combiners: http://www.solar-electric.com/sopawiinco.html (Note the DC rated breakers and fuses)
    #6 Cotek inverters are the same as Samlex and are reasonably good quality low-end units. I don't believe they have a 48 Volt. Top 24 Volt inverter in this line is $1,200 http://www.solar-electric.com/sa3wa24vosiw.html Base 48 Volt inverter from Outback is $400 more http://www.solar-electric.com/outback-power-pure-sinewave-inverter-fx3048t.html Same Wattage, OB has built-in charger and is top quality but also needs a 'MATE' programmer for $300 more.

    At this point don't worry about lightning/surge arrestors or any of the other fine details; you need to get a basic design fixed and then further adapt to your particular needs.
  • esteban
    esteban Solar Expert Posts: 66 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer
    I must caution you on two aspects of your proposed system.
    The first is that playing around with solar energy can very easily become an extreme addiction. I know that from personal experience, so be very careful! :D:D
    The second is a heads-up on dealing with the mechanical switching etc of DC circuits over 12 volts, and the higher the voltage the worse and more dangerous the problems become. Switching AC is comparatively very easy as every half cycle the voltage/current passes through zero, easily allowing the associated arc to be extinguished. With DC from solar panels etc however, there is no zero volts unless for the panels you cover them or night comes, and likewise, with a battery bank, if the batteries go dead. Thus a DC arc, once initiated, can sometimes be very difficult to extinguish. Such DC arcing can quickly destroy a non-DC rated switch or circuit breaker, or fuse, and go on to start a fire really quickly. As an educational experiment, place one of your panels in full sun with a couple of wires connected to the output. Make sure the wires are long enough that you're away from the panel when holding the ends, then touch them together and slowly bring them apart. You'll be amazed at the arc and the high temps it will produce. Now imagine what would happen if you had not one, but several panels wired together and did this, and if they were wired in series for higher voltages. You'll also quickly see why loose connections in a DC circuit can be one of your greatest enemies and should be one of your greatest fears.
    Sounds to me like you're about to start out on an amazing journey. I know that journey has been amazing for me.
    All the best and safe travels. :D

    Thank you very much! I don't doubt the arc issues one bit, but would this make you stay at 24v vs going to 48v? I mean if you hook anything up wrong you are looking at major issues, I imagine spending some time and doing it right the first time should eliminate that?
  • esteban
    esteban Solar Expert Posts: 66 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer
    vtmaps wrote: »
    In both configurations, you left out the combiner box.

    Another consideration is the battery bank. A single string of batteries is optimal. Therefore, on that basis I would recommend the 48 volt configuration. One thing in favor of a 24 volt system, is the potential to have fewer cells. This makes for fewer connections and easier maintenance, but you will be using larger, more expensive cells (not GC batteries). Fewer cells also means a longer lasting battery bank. explanation:

    No two battery cells are identical (half of all cells produced are below average!) There's virtually no chance that a 48 volt (or even a 24 volt) battery bank will be entirely composed of above average cells. Having even 23 of 24 cells above average does you no good because a battery bank is only as good as its weakest cell. So you can't realistically hope to have a battery with all above average cells, but what really matters is avoiding those outlier cells in the lowest percentiles. The more cells you have in your battery bank, the greater the chance of having an outlier cell, and the more likely your battery bank will have a below average lifespan. Statistically, the longest lived battery bank will have the fewest cells. Of course a 2 volt system voltage is impractical.... a good design compromise is to use a single string of cells at the lowest voltage that is practical for your power needs.

    Regarding the inverter, you will be much happier with an inverter/charger. Not just because of the charger, but these inverters have many more features. You have grid available... read a little about hybrid inverters before you invest.

    Where will you mount your panels? You should have your combiner box with a lightning arrester outside your home. btw, if you go with a 48 volt system, three panels in series will be OK. I wouldn't do three in series with a 24 volt system.

    Take a look at Midnite's ePanel and download their ePanel wiring diagrams. You will learn a lot about the buses, breakers, shunts, and bypasses that you will need. They sell the ePanel as a kit with all components needed for the particular inverter/charger that you want.

    Finally, how will you integrate your system into your present house wiring? Will you set up a separate AC distribution panel? Depending on what you do, you may need some transfer switches to keep your inverter and the grid apart. Inverter/chargers have built-in transfer switches.

    --vtMaps

    I understand, that does make a lot of sense. More or less I'll expect to receive at least a couple 'bad' cells which sounds like it is just a part of life.

    The inverter chargers I've been reading about this morning sound nice, as you can charge the batteries from the grid, but again at this point I will have a LOT more solar power than I "need", I'll probably have to intentionally cycle my batteries every couple weeks to ensure I'm not degrading them with an endless float charge.

    I've taken a look at the e-panels and they do look nice. I'll have to inquire about them.

    Integration into my house, currently, there may be none, I may literally have an inverter in the garage and plug things into it. Who knows, this is all evolving as I go :)

    Yes I know, terrible plan!
  • esteban
    esteban Solar Expert Posts: 66 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer
    #1 AC rated switches/breakers/fuse will not handle the same power on DC.
    #2 You could use two of your panels in series for a 48 Volt system as it meets the minimum Vmp requirement.
    #3 Your 24 Volt design will have all eight in parallel, which increases the current from the combined panels to the controller. This has an effect on Voltage drop between the two: it increases it for a given wire size and distance. The '48 Volt' array would also work for a 24 Volt system and with less V-drop.
    #4 Your 24 Volt battery design looks like two separate banks. I presume you didn't mean it too.
    #5 What vtmaps said: combiners: http://www.solar-electric.com/sopawiinco.html (Note the DC rated breakers and fuses)
    #6 Cotek inverters are the same as Samlex and are reasonably good quality low-end units. I don't believe they have a 48 Volt. Top 24 Volt inverter in this line is $1,200 http://www.solar-electric.com/sa3wa24vosiw.html Base 48 Volt inverter from Outback is $400 more http://www.solar-electric.com/outback-power-pure-sinewave-inverter-fx3048t.html Same Wattage, OB has built-in charger and is top quality but also needs a 'MATE' programmer for $300 more.

    At this point don't worry about lightning/surge arrestors or any of the other fine details; you need to get a basic design fixed and then further adapt to your particular needs.


    Reading all of your answers makes me laugh at myself, I'm over here thinking about recharging my phone and laptop, and you are pointing our 3000w inverters LOL. I had literally thought I'd get roughly a 350w inverter such as this: http://www.invertersrus.com/sk350-124.html

    Like I said this system won't actually have any "needs", it'll just power things for me for fun, I think the 350w inverter may even start my fridge with its 700w surge. May not, but who knows. My main reason for picking the 350w variety was me reading how inefficient at 1500w or 3000w inverter is with something like a 50 or 100w load attached. I guess I'd like as big of an inverter as possible but not so large that I am constantly running it extremely inefficiently, maybe something like the below 1500w??

    http://www.invertersrus.com/sk1500-124.html

    As I think of this more and more maybe I need to just use 6 of the panels and a 24v system.

    I think for now I'll stick with the GC2 battery variety, I read numerous times they are the smart choice for the newbie, cheap and good for most. I've got Costco and Sams club just a few miles from home so they are readily available.

    Here's a question though:

    If I used 6 panels, thus making 1050w. How many GC2's should I use? 4 would give me 24v, but is that too small of a bank for that much incoming power? To go to 8 as far as I understand I'd have to parallel the battery strings (2 sets of 4) and I keep being told not to do so.

    Again same question if I used 8 panels? I imagine at that point I would literally NEED to have at least 8 batteries.

    I like the outback inverter/charger. No doubt it looks nice, but to me it seems like overkill for the system just sitting around in the garage etc?

    Thanks again guys, I really appreciate it!
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer
    esteban wrote: »
    Thank you very much! I don't doubt the arc issues one bit, but would this make you stay at 24v vs going to 48v? I mean if you hook anything up wrong you are looking at major issues, I imagine spending some time and doing it right the first time should eliminate that?

    The arc issue Wayne mentions is about a fuse/breaker/switch's ability to interrupt the current flow: the higher the Voltage the greater the arc potential and the more difficult it is to interrupt. So a device suited for 24 Volts may not function properly with 48 Volts going through it. And always remember that a '48 Volt' system actually runs in the neighborhood of >60 Volts at times. So a breaker that says "48 VDC" on it may not be safe to use on a 48 Volt system.
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer
    esteban wrote: »

    Here's a question though:

    If I used 6 panels, thus making 1050w. How many GC2's should I use? 4 would give me 24v, but is that too small of a bank for that much incoming power? To go to 8 as far as I understand I'd have to parallel the battery strings (2 sets of 4) and I keep being told not to do so.

    Again same question if I used 8 panels? I imagine at that point I would literally NEED to have at least 8 batteries.

    I like the outback inverter/charger. No doubt it looks nice, but to me it seems like overkill for the system just sitting around in the garage etc?

    Thanks again guys, I really appreciate it!

    There's no such thing as "too much array for the batteries" as the charging is regulated. So you can spend too much on the array, but it won't cook the batteries. A 1050 Watt array on an MPPT controller should be good for 34 Amps @ 24 Volts, more than enough for a single set of GC2's.

    When you go up in array size and increase current potential you can program a good controller to limit its output current to an amount less than maximum. So the array might be capable of 60 Amps @ 24 Volts but the Classic 150 (for example) is set to only put out 30 Amps at most. Why do this? Because the sun doesn't shine all the time. In areas where clouds compete for the sky putting up a larger than typical array can help on those less-than-perfect days.

    And keep in mind we are talking about peak, not constant, current and that most flooded cells can take 20% of their capacity for a maximum.

    Since you are looking at 300 Watts output rather than 3000 you can definitely go down in size and save more money. 1kW 24 Volt inverter is about as small as they get: http://www.solar-electric.com/sa1wa24vosiw.html There are smaller inverters, but they are nearly always 12 Volt. Might as well find a good compromise between smallest and largest, eh?
  • esteban
    esteban Solar Expert Posts: 66 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer
    There's no such thing as "too much array for the batteries" as the charging is regulated. So you can spend too much on the array, but it won't cook the batteries. A 1050 Watt array on an MPPT controller should be good for 34 Amps @ 24 Volts, more than enough for a single set of GC2's.

    When you go up in array size and increase current potential you can program a good controller to limit its output current to an amount less than maximum. So the array might be capable of 60 Amps @ 24 Volts but the Classic 150 (for example) is set to only put out 30 Amps at most. Why do this? Because the sun doesn't shine all the time. In areas where clouds compete for the sky putting up a larger than typical array can help on those less-than-perfect days.

    And keep in mind we are talking about peak, not constant, current and that most flooded cells can take 20% of their capacity for a maximum.

    Since you are looking at 300 Watts output rather than 3000 you can definitely go down in size and save more money. 1kW 24 Volt inverter is about as small as they get: http://www.solar-electric.com/sa1wa24vosiw.html There are smaller inverters, but they are nearly always 12 Volt. Might as well find a good compromise between smallest and largest, eh?

    When you say more than enough for a single set of GC2's are you meaning 4 of them in series at 24v??

    I guess what I'm looking for is how many I should honestly buy? If its 4 then great, if its 8 then I'll do it.

    Going to 24v seems to eliminate the usage of the Midnite KID, as it is a 30 amp controller, and at 24v and 1050w I'm above that. Sounds like the Classic 150 wins for the charge controller. Would we agree on that?

    I think the 1000w inverter is a great middle ground. I'm not against spending the money for the 3kw version, its just that I'll literally NEVER use 3kw, being that this is just my "toy" and backup system. If the power goes out and I can run a fridge and a few lights I'm a happy camper. In all honesty I don't think I've ever had a power outage of more than 30 minutes in the last 10 years, and it likely happens once a year at best. I think the 1kw version will be useful for the long run, even if I decide to upgrade later it can be delegated to a smaller camping system or something like that. How inefficient would it be to run 50-100w from a 1kw inverter like that? I guess it doesn't really matter but hopefully it does "ok"
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer
    esteban wrote: »
    When you say more than enough for a single set of GC2's are you meaning 4 of them in series at 24v??

    Yes: that would be 220 Amp hours @ 24 Volts and the array could provide 33 Amps @ 24 Volts.
    I guess what I'm looking for is how many I should honestly buy? If its 4 then great, if its 8 then I'll do it.

    I think you'll find four (one string) more than adequate. My battery bank is 232 Amp hours @ 24 Volts and it runs everything at the cabin including refrigerator.
    Going to 24v seems to eliminate the usage of the Midnite KID, as it is a 30 amp controller, and at 24v and 1050w I'm above that. Sounds like the Classic 150 wins for the charge controller. Would we agree on that?

    The Kid will work fine. Current over 30 Amps will just be 'clipped' and the overage is likely to be no more than 10% at that.
    I think the 1000w inverter is a great middle ground. I'm not against spending the money for the 3kw version, its just that I'll literally NEVER use 3kw, being that this is just my "toy" and backup system. If the power goes out and I can run a fridge and a few lights I'm a happy camper. In all honesty I don't think I've ever had a power outage of more than 30 minutes in the last 10 years, and it likely happens once a year at best. I think the 1kw version will be useful for the long run, even if I decide to upgrade later it can be delegated to a smaller camping system or something like that. How inefficient would it be to run 50-100w from a 1kw inverter like that? I guess it doesn't really matter but hopefully it does "ok"

    Were it not for the big hit of the motors I use a 1kW inverter would work for my system as well. Most of the time it idles along at <500 Watts output. The surge capacity of the 1kW unit should allow the 'frige to start (they can demand over 1kW easily), if all the wiring is sound and there aren't many other loads on.

    That Samlex has a "power save" mode which reduces its own consumption when there is no load demand on it. Although the minimum start-up trigger is 20 Watts. It draw 0.15 Amps then, or 0.75 when active. Otherwise conversion efficiency is 92% at full load (meaning 1000 Watts AC demands 1087 Watts DC plus the inverter's own 18 Watts - pretty good rating).
  • esteban
    esteban Solar Expert Posts: 66 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer
    Yes: that would be 220 Amp hours @ 24 Volts and the array could provide 33 Amps @ 24 Volts.



    I think you'll find four (one string) more than adequate. My battery bank is 232 Amp hours @ 24 Volts and it runs everything at the cabin including refrigerator.



    The Kid will work fine. Current over 30 Amps will just be 'clipped' and the overage is likely to be no more than 10% at that.



    Were it not for the big hit of the motors I use a 1kW inverter would work for my system as well. Most of the time it idles along at <500 Watts output. The surge capacity of the 1kW unit should allow the 'frige to start (they can demand over 1kW easily), if all the wiring is sound and there aren't many other loads on.

    That Samlex has a "power save" mode which reduces its own consumption when there is no load demand on it. Although the minimum start-up trigger is 20 Watts. It draw 0.15 Amps then, or 0.75 when active. Otherwise conversion efficiency is 92% at full load (meaning 1000 Watts AC demands 1087 Watts DC plus the inverter's own 18 Watts - pretty good rating).

    I'm confused about the 33 Amps @ 24 Volts?? Maybe I'm doing it wrong but 1050/24 = 43.75 correct?

    I'm playing around with battery AH to "watts" online to figure out what I can realistically run off of 4 GC2 batteries. Seems like I could easily run 4 CCFL bulbs in the house, charge my laptop, run the fridge intermittently if I really needed to and even watch TV. That's really all I could think of "needing" from the system. I'll probably NEVER actually run the fridge from it, but just in a "worst case" scenario to know I could is nice. Maybe I'll put my beer fridge on the system :) Actually a converted chest freezer. Now that I think about it, that may be good to help put a load and cycle the batteries a bit.

    So mostly I guess I need to understand the 33 amp aspect? I must be running numbers incorrectly. But it does sound like 22AH at 24v should be enough. That is unless I find out that L-16's are cheaper than expected locally. I like the idea of grabbing batteries at Costco. Hard to beat that
  • esteban
    esteban Solar Expert Posts: 66 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer

    Also I notice your signature says 4x175w panels, should I just stick with 4?? I could then make two systems I suppose..
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer
    esteban wrote: »
    I'm confused about the 33 Amps @ 24 Volts?? Maybe I'm doing it wrong but 1050/24 = 43.75 correct?

    Correct math, wrong formula. :D
    Panels do not put out their rated Wattage. On average the output from the controller will be about 77% of the rated power. So you get this: 1050 * 0.77 / 24 = 33.68 which is a more realistic peak power to expect. Also keep in mind that the panels' power potential goes up during the day while charging the battery at the same time. So by solar noon you could have 33 Amps potential but the batteries may already be mostly or even fully charged and require more like 6 Amps to maintain Voltage level.
    I'm playing around with battery AH to "watts" online to figure out what I can realistically run off of 4 GC2 batteries. Seems like I could easily run 4 CCFL bulbs in the house, charge my laptop, run the fridge intermittently if I really needed to and even watch TV. That's really all I could think of "needing" from the system. I'll probably NEVER actually run the fridge from it, but just in a "worst case" scenario to know I could is nice. Maybe I'll put my beer fridge on the system :) Actually a converted chest freezer. Now that I think about it, that may be good to help put a load and cycle the batteries a bit.

    It really is quite a lot of power available from some cheap batteries. Keep in mind you never want to discharge below 50%. So you do not get "220 Amp hours * 24 Volts" but rather a portion of 220 Amp hours * 24 Volts. 25% average daily depth of discharge works for most applications as a good balance between capacity, recharging, and lifespan. (There are a number of other factors which come in to determining exactly how much power you can realize from a system, but it makes it more complicated to understand so we're ignoring them for now.)
    So mostly I guess I need to understand the 33 amp aspect? I must be running numbers incorrectly. But it does sound like 22AH at 24v should be enough. That is unless I find out that L-16's are cheaper than expected locally. I like the idea of grabbing batteries at Costco. Hard to beat that

    If you find L16's cheaper than GC2's (aka T105's) it would be a first. :D
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer
    esteban wrote: »
    Also I notice your signature says 4x175w panels, should I just stick with 4?? I could then make two systems I suppose..


    If it were feasible I'd double the size of my array. Or more. I take full advantage of my expert ability at system management to get what I need from my system, and I have a location advantage. Remember that 77% derating mentioned before? My array runs at 82% due to higher elevation increasing the actual insolation on the panels. Mine is a seasonal install and our daylight hours are long up here (16 hours mid Summer).

    I also take advantage of the 'surplus' daytime power to run things like water pumps so that the batteries only have to carry relatively light load between charge times (pretty much just keep the 'frige on overnight). Not recommended procedure for everyone. :D
  • esteban
    esteban Solar Expert Posts: 66 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer

    Ok I gotcha. I'm at 4500 feet, not sure if that is considered "high" but maybe?

    If you were in my situation would you do the 24 or 48 volt setup?? Would you do the KID or the Classic 150?? I can think of a couple scenarios in my head:

    at 24v with a KID I could really only go up to the 1050w worth of panels. The street price of the KID is $300, (4) batteries from Costco is $400 and change. This gives me 1050w solar, 225AH at 24v and a relatively maxed out controller.

    The Classic 150 is roughly $650. This gives me plenty of room for expansion. I could then tie all 8 panels for 1400w, but I'd probably want to go with more batteries at that point right??

    That leads me to believe that I should use the KID, go to 48v, and use all 8 panels. This is well within the charge ability of the controller, and with the savings vs buying the Classic 150 I can literally almost double my capacity in batteries. IE 8 batteries for 48v = $800 + $300 KID = $1100

    Classic 150 for $650 + 4 batteries = $1050. Almost the same price and double the battery bank right??

    Where is the hole in my theory??? I have to check out inverter costs more heavily, along with the fuse aspect, but is the cost really that much more??

    Am I overthinking it?? I need direction!! LOL
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer

    4500 feet of elevation is definitely enough to get you some extra insolation. That's 1000 feet higher than me, so you might be running at 84% efficiency. :D

    Which direction you go is going to depend on what your future plans are. You don't want to have to redesign and change everything later if your needs change.

    So on the plus side the Kid controller can be paralleled to get 60 Amps if need be. But from the price difference this is about the same as buying a Classic 150 to begin with. How likely is your system expansion? I can't answer that one.

    Upgrading from 24 to 48 Volts will increase the available power, but you would need at least new batteries, new inverter, and change-out of fuses/breakers to make sure they'll work. And will you have the same kind of panels available when you do it? Panels come and go: my 175 Watt Sharps were bought with the intention of adding more later, then they stopped making them. I can still add panels, but it's no longer as simple as buying some more of the same ones. So how soon would you expand? Another question I can't answer.

    Staying with 24 Volts and doubling the battery bank and array means you would probably buy the bigger controller to begin with. This will increase your stored capacity, but if you need more total output power again you'd have to get a new inverter (at which point jumping up to 48 makes sense).

    I can tell you this: batteries die over time no matter how well looked-after. A large bank that's only lightly cycled doesn't last any longer than one taken to 25% and may even last less than one discharged to 50%. So buying a large quantity of batteries now when you know you won't be using them is a waste of money.

    A 30 Amp controller can handle 30 Amps at either 24 or 48 Volts, so if you step the Voltage up it's like running a 60 Amp controller on a 24 Volt system; same amount of power. So the Kid wouldn't work for all eight panels @ 24 Volts (45 Amps) but would for all eight panels @ 48 Volts (22.5).

    Possibly the best solution here is:
    Start at 24 Volts with one string of four GC2's, the Kid controller, and four of the 175 Watt panels with an inexpensive inverter.
    Expand to 48 Volts if needed with one string of eight GC2's, the Kid controller, all eight 175 Watt panels, and up the inverter to a larger 48 Volt unit.
  • esteban
    esteban Solar Expert Posts: 66 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me make wise decisions - First timer

    Well THAT is some info I can use!

    Assuming I go the 24v direction, I'll use the Kid as you said, with one string of four GC2's and something like the 1000w 24v inverter as previously mentioned. I imagine that later adding 4 more panels, and jumping to 48v I'd need to replace all batteries right?? I read a LOT about how you don't want to mix old and new.

    Going the 24v and 4 panel way, do I really need a combiner?? What type of fuses would I really need?? It seems (ignorantly) on the small side of things and relatively safe. I don't want to underestimate the potential of power either. I haven't done enough research on the combiner boxes yet, but on the surface of it they just appear to be a breaker more or less??

    Thanks again, your help is far more than appreciated.

    I think in the short term I'll hook the system up to my beer keezer: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-sears-kenmore-8-8cf-6-tap-how-thread-lots-pictures-447047/

    I'll have to check what kind of power it truly uses in a day, but hopefully its a realistic load to keep my system cycling and "tending" my batteries. Certainly doesn't have to be hooked up to that, but it'd be kind of cool to have the sun keep my beer cold!