Newbie Question

icarus · June 2013

Re: Newbie Question

After about 6 years, the system still workes perfectly. I have never had a freeze up when I am home, and it takes less than 20 minutes to thaw when I have been away for a couple of weeks or months.

Tony

Rybren · June 2013

Re: Newbie Question

Tony,

I'm interested in learning more about the automatic low point drains and valve drains that you were speaking about. Where did you buy them/what do they look like? (edit: just reread the thread and will try to find some from a sprinkler supply house) A quick Google search didn't turn up much in the way of detail.

Did you ever finish that magazine article? It's only been 2 years and I wouldn't want to rush you

Thanks

-Jerry

BB. · June 2013

Re: Newbie Question

For sprinkler systems, automatic drains are very common (something like less than $5 each? Many should include check valve and dirt/tree root filter/barrier):

http://www.kinginnovation.com/products/irrigation-products/king-drains-2/king-drains/
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/The-Freeze-Drain-Irrigation-s-Best-Kept-Secret-s/7952.htm
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Irrigation-Winterization-Guide-s/6276.htm

Basically, the valve opens when the pressure in the pipe drops below ~10 psi. At that point, the valve opens and lets the water drain out.

I was looking for those designed for domestic water systems--And I have not found any brass versions yet (did find one that appears to be for green house misting systems--But functional description was a bit wonky).

I am not in a hard freeze zone, so not much experience on my part.

You can also find automatic water drain valves for air compressors--But may not a good choice here (many different types--need one that opens when pressure drops near zero psi).

-Bill

Rybren · June 2013

Re: Newbie Question

Thanks for those links Bill.

- Jerry

tmarch · June 2013

Re: Newbie Question

Good read, but wonder if those sheep ever got water. LOL

YYB_NB · July 2013

Re: Newbie Question

Question.

In an effort to avoid the heating tape, if you anchored the line, and sent regulated compressed air down the mainline (Less than 5 PSI) so that you don't trigger the drain valve, and push air all the back to your irrigation drain and then cap it (seal it), wouldn't that negate the need for heating the pipe if there's an air space in the line? Like placing your thumb over the top of a straw and putting it into a glass of water.

I know this is an old thread, but it's very informative, and I'm considering trying it, let me know your thoughts.

M

BB. · July 2013

Re: Newbie Question

I have blown out lines before -- More or less just playing around as we do not get hard freezes in our area.

But I like the idea of the sprinkler drain valves to automate the draining for a cabin. Turn of the pump/pressurization, and the lines "purge themselves" (probably need to add an upstream air vent (vacuum break) to allow water the chance to flow out cleanly.

And welcome to the forum "M".

-Bill

westbranch · July 2013

Re: Newbie Question

watch out for a wee bit toooooo much pressure in the lines before opening the valves, the heads tend to have a habit of going 10 feet in the air when the air hits them...

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