Where to start?
MikeSD
Registered Users Posts: 3
Hello,
Down the road, I will be looking for some solar solution for being in an area without electricity. I'd like to put together a small system, to get a good understanding of all the pitfals and also to make sure I understand how to address capacity issues vs. need.
This test system would also be useful in my current location, as a backup, when power goes out.
I'm not really looking for any grid tie system. I'm not looking for solar because of cost issues. I'm just looking for solar, for an area without electricity.
Anyway, that's why I'm here. Looking for information. I'll also be reading the site, for answers from people who have already asked the same questions.
I haven't set my requirements yet but I'd like a test system to be about 1000W, be reliable. I'd like it to supply power when there is a lack of sun, so I assume that will also include batteries. Another thing I want to investigate is the ability to use panels, directly, without batteries, to assess the possibility of using a solar system with or without batteries.
Let's talk capacity (purely arbitrary requirements).
1) If I have a load requirement of 1000W continuously, but only for 3 or 4 hours a day, what capacity and type of solar system would I need?
2) If I had a load requirement of 1000W continuously, 24/7, what capacity and type of solar system would I need?
3) What types of requirements require batteries? (obviously, no sunshine might require them)
4) What types of requirements allow direct use of panels, without batteries?
What I'm looking for, initially, is information to allow me to buy a system that I can use for test purposes that will allow me to assess the capabilities of solar and possibly be useful, in my current location. Like I said, I have no interest in grid-tie systems. I just want something that can be used in places where there is no electricity or one that can be used in a backup situation.
If anyone wants to suggest some good reading, I'm all eyes.
Mike
Down the road, I will be looking for some solar solution for being in an area without electricity. I'd like to put together a small system, to get a good understanding of all the pitfals and also to make sure I understand how to address capacity issues vs. need.
This test system would also be useful in my current location, as a backup, when power goes out.
I'm not really looking for any grid tie system. I'm not looking for solar because of cost issues. I'm just looking for solar, for an area without electricity.
Anyway, that's why I'm here. Looking for information. I'll also be reading the site, for answers from people who have already asked the same questions.
I haven't set my requirements yet but I'd like a test system to be about 1000W, be reliable. I'd like it to supply power when there is a lack of sun, so I assume that will also include batteries. Another thing I want to investigate is the ability to use panels, directly, without batteries, to assess the possibility of using a solar system with or without batteries.
Let's talk capacity (purely arbitrary requirements).
1) If I have a load requirement of 1000W continuously, but only for 3 or 4 hours a day, what capacity and type of solar system would I need?
2) If I had a load requirement of 1000W continuously, 24/7, what capacity and type of solar system would I need?
3) What types of requirements require batteries? (obviously, no sunshine might require them)
4) What types of requirements allow direct use of panels, without batteries?
What I'm looking for, initially, is information to allow me to buy a system that I can use for test purposes that will allow me to assess the capabilities of solar and possibly be useful, in my current location. Like I said, I have no interest in grid-tie systems. I just want something that can be used in places where there is no electricity or one that can be used in a backup situation.
If anyone wants to suggest some good reading, I'm all eyes.
Mike
Comments
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Re: Where to start?My first suggestion is to get a serious handle on what you NEED to power, and for how long, then let us know the details.
I already did.
On one extreme, load requiring 1000W continuously for 3 to 4 hours.
On the other extreme, load requiring 1000W continuously, 24/7.
I have deliberately not specified any specifics, for loads, for a couple of reasons. #1 is they haven't been defined yet. #2 if I gave a list of loads, the subject would quickly turn to "why not use this kind of motor" or "why not use this kind of light?". I'm not interested, at this point, in quibbling over load types. I'm more interested in understanding the overall system, types, and how they are sized according to loads.
Now, if that is not enough detail, I would think a proper response would be to ask questions to ferret out what the OP left out of the requirements that might be important. Someone who isn't an expert on a subject, can hardly be expected to provide a specific set of requirements to properly design a system. If they were that skilled, then they probably wouldn't need help.
I'm pretty sure someone could provide an example of a minimum system that could satisfy #1 and another minimum system that could satisfy #2. Since this is an academic exercise and learning experience, let's keep it simple. The specific loads have not been defined yet. So for this exercise, let's just say the loads are common incandescent light bulbs. I don't want LED lighting or fluorescent lighting. Just plain old incandescent light bulbs. And lets define the output as standard 60Hz, 120VAC and 1000W to be roughly 8.3A at that voltage.
And just because this is an experiment and test system, doesn't mean it has to be cheap. It also doesn't mean I am looking for Grand Coulee type system. Just a minimum system, that can meet the requirements and is reliable. I guess I'd like reliable to mean maintenance free for about 5 years. Not that it can't fail but it shouldn't require maintenance like replacing batteries every year, etc. It needs to be reliable enough, on paper, to be maintenance free over that period.
PS: I'm not a total bonehead just not an expert nor do I have any experience in this field. I'm an electrical engineer and just trying to save a little time in researching this, by going to those who already have been down this road. I find the easiest way to get up to speed it to keep a problem simple at first.
I also understand that there are other issues that need to be considered. Like what is the quality of the power required (i.e. for computer use) or are there any surges, like with motor applications. But for this exercise, I'm just trying to see what a system might look like. From there, I can see where limitations are, when I start considering actual loads. -
Re: Where to start?I already did.
On one extreme, load requiring 1000W continuously for 3 to 4 hours.
On the other extreme, load requiring 1000W continuously, 24/7.
I have deliberately not specified any specifics, for loads, for a couple of reasons. #1 is they haven't been defined yet.
If you were asking advice for what vehicle to buy, the first question I would ask you is "what sort of load do you wish to move?" Are we talking about a motorcycle or a 10-wheel dump truck?
You can get very good free engineering and design advice at this forum, but we usually design systems to meet a need, and the need is the load. Once in a while design systems around a certain parameter, "what can I do with only 18 sq ft of panel space on my boat?".I'm not interested, at this point, in quibbling over load types. I'm more interested in understanding the overall system, types, and how they are sized according to loads.
Step 1: define your loads
Step 2: choose battery size and voltage based on step 1
Step 3: buy enough panels and controllers to charge the batteries and handle your daytime loads.
--vtMaps4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i -
Re: Where to start?
mikesd,
welcome.
you are being quite vague in your inquiry so the answer will be somewhat vague too. in general if you have off grid loads that require 3-4kwh a day (or as you said 1kwh for 3-4hrs) this is feasible to do with solar and will always require batteries with the exception of water pumping and some dc fans and you will need batteries if they are to operate during non sunny times and then the batteries are required. the efficiency factors make it such that during sunny periods that an additional 50% of the load rating is a good rough idea of what could be needed. this makes a 3-4kwh/day load need about 4.5-6kwh from pv at its standard stc ratings. those actual ratings will need to be determined from how many hours of full sun occur in your local at any particular time of year with the winter solstice being the worst for solar insolation. in other words, that 4.5-6kwh requirement could be 1125w to 1500w stc in pv power at 4hrs of full sun per day. to store such power you want at least double what the draw is and possibly more so that the batteries will never go below 50% in their capacity, excepting emergencies of course. that means at least 6-8kwh of storage. to know the capacity rating of the battery is determined by taking that wattage in watt hours and divide it by the nominal battery voltage to see the amphr (ah) rating of the batteries.
as was pointed out already the system required to produce useable power at 1000w 24/7 would be large in every respect. it is important to know what your loads will be now and what they may be in the future in designing a system. oh and this won't be a backups if it is off grid unless you intend to run a generator most of the time.
the number one thing with any system is conservation for the watts you don't use you don't need to generate. for the most part the general outlay for an off grid setup will look very roughly like this,
pvs-controller-batteries-inverter-loads
sometimes, depending on the inverter, you could feed a generator through the inverter that could charge the batteries and run some loads as well and automatically switch to batteries upon the shutdown of the generator. the grid could also be put into that same position the generator is in for the case of a grid tied backups. -
Re: Where to start?
It does matter to a degree if the power is used during day time (when the sun is up and shining) vs night time. Also, surge current is a variable that may need to be taken into account (well pump would be an example).
Anyway, as a start of a "rule of thumb" system design assuming AC loads, flooded cell battery bank, fixed solar array, around Seatle Washington, assuming typical charge during the day and use power at night (at least for the 1,000 watt * 4 hour system), 1-3 days of storage with 2 days as a "ballanced design", 50% maximum battery discharge for long life, 9 months of year on solar, 3 months of year with help from backup genset, 5-13% rate of charge for battery bank--choosing 10%-13% as "balanced" the numbers would look something like this:- 1,000 Watts * 4 hours * 1/0.85 inverter efficiency * 2 days of storage * 1/0.50 maximum discharge * 1/48 volt battery bank = 392 AH @ 48 volt battery bank
To charge such a battery bank, 5-13% rate of charge for solar is typically recommended. Use 10% (or larger) as "ideal" for most systems (less maintenance/management for battery bank capacity, some extra power for charging if loads are on during day, etc.):
392 AH * 59 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller deratings * 0.10 rate of charge = 3,004 Watt array "nominal" based on battery bank capacity
Then there is how much power you actually need to supply the loads from the solar array. Using PV Watts for "sunny" Seattle Washington, using defaults (tilted to latitude, fixed array):Month Solar Radiation (kWh/m 2/day) 1 1.54 2 2.50 3 3.71 4 4.37 5 5.31 6 5.52 7 5.88 8 5.17 9 4.98 10 3.00 11 1.76 12 1.26 Year 3.76
Toss out the bottom three months, that would give us February at 2.50 hours of sun per day (that is not a lot of sun--much of the country that number would be around 4.0 hours of "noon time equivalent sun" per day minimum for 9 months of the year).
1,000 Watts * 4 hours * 1/0.52 end to end AC system efficiency * 1/2.50 hours of sun = 3,077 Watt solar array based on loads in February "break even" month.
So, very quick math would suggest a "cost effective" system with fuel powered genset at ~3,077 Watt array minimum.
For a 1,000 watt load * 24 hours per day, those would be 4x the numbers above. Plus maybe another ~1.5kW array wattage to account for the array charging the battery bank at 10% rated power but you have a 1 kW continuous load (0.85 inverter efficiency * 0.77 solar panel+charge controller efficiency):- 392 AH * 6x larger load = 2,352 AH @ 48 volt battery bank
Solar array based on 10% battery rate of charge:- (2,352 AH * 59 volt charging * 1/0.77 panel+charger derate * 0.10 rate of charge(7 + (1,000 Watt load * 1/0.85 inverter eff * 1/0.77 pane+controller eff) = 19,550 array based on minimum 10% battery charging
Note that this load offset for charging should also be calculated for the first example if your 1kW load was right in the middle of the day vs loads at night. Assumptions about loads/weather patterns make make a difference. If loads were daylight pumping (such as irrigation, then there are options such as no-battery/no-inverter systems which usually are much better solutions).
Solar array based on power usage:
6x 3,077 Watt array = 18,462 Watt array
So, minimum of 19,550 watt array using rules of thumb for a 1kW * 24 hour per day system.
You can change the numbers based on your needs/location/etc... The above system should work well and not need a lot of attention. But it is not "optimized" for loads/location/etc. Which could change/reduce/increase battery bank size. Different location with more sun in "winter" will make a big difference, etc.
Is this what you where looking for?
Nobody was trying to be difficult about your question. It is just loads (conservation, time of use, surge, seasonal, backup power, etc.) can play a major element in an overall "cost effective/reliable" system design.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Where to start?
Thanks BB and Neil. That is a lot of good information. The 1000W was somewhat arbitrary, since I haven't decided how much I want to power. Looks like my 1000W might actually be 3000-4000W, just to have 1000W available, to actually work year round. Are there any good, reliable kits you could recommend for something like this? Not going to buy anything now but would just look at what one gets for $X and what it would consist of. Or would something like this be DIY, by buying all the pieces?
Here is what I'm really working toward. I'm looking for some land on the East side of WA. It will be remote enough that it will be nowhere near any electricity. I was looking to put solar up, to run power to a small cabin. Likely this would only provide power for lights, computers, maybe a small fridge and some ham radio gear. Not much more than that. Most of this could actually be powered with DC but I'd like the AC option. Of course, over time, it might be expanded to accommodate more electronics. If I needed increased power for tools and such, I'd just fire up a small generator.
My 24/7 was not realistic and just an upper extreme. Doubtful I'd ever use more than 1000W at any one time and most likely only a few hours a day. If I was powering a small fridge, that would be powered most of the time. The cabin wouldn't be occupied 365 days. Likely only spring to summer and occasional use the other times. At least that's what I'd like to plan for. -
Re: Where to start?
You will need solar panels, batteries, and electronics.
You can't get away without batteries.
For 1 kWh/day of consumption per day you'll need roughly 2-4 kWh of battery capacity and 300-700W of solar panels. Exact numbers depend on many factors.
1000W for 3 hours is 3 kWh/day, so you'll need 3 x times that.
1000W 24/7 is 24 kWh/day, so you'll need 24 x times that. -
Re: Where to start?
First of all, off-grid systems operate on a basis of loads powered by batteries; panels & controller recharge the batteries. There are very few things which will run "direct from panel".
Second, you're looking at 4kW hours per day based on a 1kW load for four hours. If that load is or includes a motor of the AC induction type you will need an inverter and battery bank capable of handling its start-up surge demand.
Third, the basic math is pretty straightforward: 4000 Watt hours / 24 VDC = 167 Amp hours. That should be 1/4 the battery bank, so the whole thing would be 668 Amp hours. For preference round up to the nearest available size. If you can "fudge" things the other way you're looking at three parallel strings of four 220 Amp hour 6 Volt GC2's for example. Or else two parallel strings of L16 size 6 Volts @ >334 Amp hours.
Fourth, panels. You should have enough to provide a peak charge current of at least 10% of the Amp hour capacity of the batteries. Right away this is over 60 Amps, which lets out most charge controllers. The Outback FM80 and MidNite Classic line are two that can handle 80 Amps. They also happen to be two of the best. To supply this current you'd need (67 Amps * 24 Volt nominal / 0.77 efficiency average) 2088 Watts of panel. Again preference is to round up to the nearest available because the sun does not always shine brightly. If you check this against the Icarus formula you get:
2088 Watts * 4 hours minimum sun * 0.52 over-all efficiency = 4.3 kW hour AC harvest per day, which meets your needs.
Note there are a lot of fine details left out of these basic formulas such as inverter efficiency and consumption, wiring losses, and location effects. These things have to be considered the closer you get to a final design. -
Re: Where to start?
Just to give you some round numbers...
~1kWH (1,000 WH) per day--Enough for some lights, recharge a laptop, radio, charge cell phone, etc.
~3.3 kWH per day--About the minimum requirement to support a full sized energy star refrigerator, washing machine, well pump, lights, etc..
~10 kWH per day--A pretty efficient home using ~300 kWH per month (natural gas/propane for heating/cooking/etc.).
~33 kWH per day ( 1,000 kWH per month)--North America average power usage for a the "average home"
Running cabin one season and random weekends the rest of the year... Propane fridge, a small solar power system (maybe 1kWH per day) for 24x7 lights/laptop/cell phone/pressurize water for cabin from cistern, etc.). Run a genset (like a Honda eu2000i) for "more power". Get a cheap 3.5 - 5 kW to run larger electric tools/shop/fire pump/emergency backup to smaller genset).
Power usage is a highly personal set of choices--We do not "go green" to be green. We help people plan their power needs to fit their requirements--what ever those may be. For example, there are some folks running A/C, heat pump heating/hot water on fairly small off grid systems--Very insulated homes, a choice to not be dependent on fossil fuels (and the chargers/issues with those fuels).
Just do not buy any major gear until you have done a couple "paper designs" first. Off grid solar power is not easy (or cheap) to scale up or down by more than a factor of 2 without major changes/different equipment.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Where to start?4) What types of requirements allow direct use of panels, without batteries?
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Re: Where to start?
very good that you are seeing some goals as in what to power. you need to figure out what kind of watt hour totals you would see from your loads per day. you know there is a big difference too when it comes to hamming between operating 50 or 100w on fm as opposed to that same on ssb. how long you key down for as a percentage comes into play too for someone who listens more than talks will use less power. then there's the overall time with the radio on as well. if you want high power as in linears then use a genny and know that you should have one on hand anyway as solar is not something that is 100% reliable due to weather and times of the year. the ham stuff is not the only load area with variability and personalization. other loads have a degree of variability too and all of this needs figured to determine a good starting point.
a refrigerator and any other item with an electric motor, fan, or compressor (inductive) tends to need the better sine wave inverters. the modsine inverters have harmonic content that the appliances would not like very much and would cause an excessive amount of wasted power in the load which could lead to an early grave for those said items dissipating that extra power in the form of heat and not just to mention you needing to provide more power for the same item to be run.
as to solar kits, it would not be advisable to just run out and buy one. most times you are buying too much or not enough and you may not be saving $ over a more customized setup pieced together, but once in awhile a kit suits. -
Re: Where to start?
I'd read here, about people like you who are just starting out. Too many variables to say this is what you need. I and others here might give you reasonable estimated systems if, beyond the loads you have given us, you tell us;
Where the system will be located...
While the sun shines most everywhere, it doesn't shine for the same amount of time in each place.
Maximum momentary loads, we can just run numbers for your light bulbs, a pure resistance load, but understand that it take more oomph to start a motor!
Time of day for your loads, OK you said 1Kw an hour every hour, but if you know when you 3-4 Kw a day load is it makes a difference.
Location will tell us a bunch, but how many days of worry free operation do you need, if a freak storm settles in and West Umber land receives no sun for 'X' amount of days how much storage do you want to have? Would you be willing to run a generator?
Examples can run a huge gambit;
If your in Portland Oregon, (I'm just guessing) and have 2 hours of sun on average in Dec and you want to be able to go 3 days with no sun, you'll need a pretty sizable array and battery bank to meet your needs.
If your in Arizona (or South Africa) and you get 5-6 hours of sunshine on average every day, your system will be many times smaller than that guy in Portland.
If your some idiot in Missouri who uses most of his electric in the summer, your system would appear out of balance.
I have a 4Kw array(intending to expand it to 6.6Kw) with 800Ah battery bank, and suspect I'll use 16 or more Kwh during the summer. Note the battery bank only has @9Kwh reserve to 50% DOD (depth of discharge), but our heat comes with sun, and so I suspect I'll be OK. Much of that 16+Kw load will be during the day, when the losses are somewhat less. In the winter I use maybe 4 Kwh a day. I'm hopeful that the over sized array will help bring in some energy on those cloudy winter days, and that a week of cloudy, might find me around 50% DOD. We'll see...
Solar system are by there nature highly personal and location specific.Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
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