Building new Off Grid Home in Panama

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  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama

    A 48 Volt system is slightly more efficient than a 24 Volt system (more of the power comes from Voltage than Amps so less of it is lost to heat). But 48 Volt fuses/breakers/switches can be more difficult/expensive to obtain.

    Otherwise, since you can supply your needed Watt hours with no more than two parallel strings @ 24 Volts, it would work. Some may say there is an advantage in that if one string should fail for some reason you can still carry on at half power. Something to think about if replacement could be problematic.
  • westbranch
    westbranch Solar Expert Posts: 5,183 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama

    Had a similar discussion with a fairly 'brainy' friend, about 24 vs 48v systems, and his first question was 'what are you going to be able to do if there is a battery/equipment failure?

    This convinced me to go the redundant route, 24v so there will be 2 separate chargers on separate batteries, that are powering the inverters...

    YMMV...

    hth
     
    KID #51B  4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
    CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM 
    Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
    2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
    Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
    West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama

    Another way of looking at it:

    Largest solar charge controller you can get is basically 80 Amps @ any nominal Voltage.
    10% rule of thumb limits battery bank size to 800 Amp hours (+/- a bit).
    400 usable maximum Amp hours @ 24 Volts = 9.6 kW hours stored power.
    400 usable maximum Amp hours @ 48 Volts = 19.2 kW hours stored power.

    That is not saying you can't have multiple charge controllers and really large battery banks, it's just one way to look at the available equipment and make a choice.

    At some point you simply have to make a judgement call.
  • Photowhit
    Photowhit Solar Expert Posts: 6,006 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama

    Well your statements "Anticipated Array Power @ #####" are basically very wrong, it's good you are thinking about the added heat, but see if you can find the NOCT (Normal operating cell temperature) value for your panel, this will tend to run 75-85% of STC (Standard Test Conditions) which is the way panels are rated.

    While you 'can' monitor the classic with wireless networking, you have to plug it into a wireless router to do that, they don't send out a signal.

    1/0 for a ground is overkill , and rebar is worthless and a ground, as I was told, since that is what I used 10 years ago when I setup my original system.

    I have found the system failures in batteries are slow loss of capacity, and electronics can be quick. I went with a 24 volt system and would have preferred a 48v but already had the battery, I like fork lift batteries for their longevity vs cost, but that might not be true in Panama.

    In these days of cheap panels, I would rather you went with more panels for cloudy days, but perhaps your mostly sunny.

    Classics do work together now, so you can string together as many as you need, not sure if they have a max, I'll end up with 3 Classic.
    Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites,  Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
    - Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
  • solar_dave
    solar_dave Solar Expert Posts: 2,397 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama
    Photowhit wrote: »
    While you 'can' monitor the classic with wireless networking, you have to plug it into a wireless router to do that, they don't send out a signal.

    Here is a nice way to setup a wireless repeater.
    http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=NU-644-202-0005&cat=NET

    I have 2 of these, one one the TED and one on my media computer.
  • Panamretiree
    Panamretiree Solar Expert Posts: 278 ✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama
    Another way of looking at it:

    Largest solar charge controller you can get is basically 80 Amps @ any nominal Voltage.
    10% rule of thumb limits battery bank size to 800 Amp hours (+/- a bit).
    400 usable maximum Amp hours @ 24 Volts = 9.6 kW hours stored power.
    400 usable maximum Amp hours @ 48 Volts = 19.2 kW hours stored power.

    That is not saying you can't have multiple charge controllers and really large battery banks, it's just one way to look at the available equipment and make a choice.

    At some point you simply have to make a judgement call.

    Cariboocoot - at 48 volts would I not have 200AH usable which would give me 200 * 48 = 9.6kW hours stored power, the same as a 24V system?

    The one good thing about the 24V system is that adding another string of batteries can be done relatively inexpensively - get them from Panama City, getting more panels and such into Panama is not quite as straight forward - not impossible though.

    You are right, at some point a decision will be made. I do appreciate yours, and everyones input.

    Cheers

    Ernest
  • Panamretiree
    Panamretiree Solar Expert Posts: 278 ✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama
    Photowhit wrote: »
    Well your statements "Anticipated Array Power @ #####" are basically very wrong, it's good you are thinking about the added heat, but see if you can find the NOCT (Normal operating cell temperature) value for your panel, this will tend to run 75-85% of STC (Standard Test Conditions) which is the way panels are rated.

    Went and redid the calks using the NOCT ratings. You are correct, the ratings are 75% of what the STC ratings are. It makes a difference for both 24V and 48V systems. Will redo the calcs, print and compare

    While you 'can' monitor the classic with wireless networking, you have to plug it into a wireless router to do that, they don't send out a signal.

    Looked at the instruction video from MidNite and read the manual.

    1/0 for a ground is overkill , and rebar is worthless and a ground, as I was told, since that is what I used 10 years ago when I setup my original system.

    Are you saying your rebar has survived the years. I am used to the galvanized plates we use in Canada, imagine they are available in the US as well. Haven't found them here yet.

    I have found the system failures in batteries are slow loss of capacity, and electronics can be quick. I went with a 24 volt system and would have preferred a 48v but already had the battery, I like fork lift batteries for their longevity vs cost, but that might not be true in Panama.

    Sourcing anything here in Panama is sometimes a daunting task. Will do more looking, but as Cariboocoot says, have to make a decision sometime. Looking at around 20 to 25 June for the decision.

    In these days of cheap panels, I would rather you went with more panels for cloudy days, but perhaps your mostly sunny.

    The days here of late are rather cloudy, good downpours as well. Chris Olson also has this same sentiment. Now until end November to mid-December is the wet season and I'm expecting to see more cloudy/overcast/scattered cloud days then clear sunny ones. Asked this very question in one of my earlier posts. The wet season was late this year, supposed to start in April which would give me ~8 months of variable cloud and days without full sun. When it is sunny the CCs will take care of the charging aspect. - at that time we will be able to throw caution to the wind maybe for a short time - who knows.

    Classics do work together now, so you can string together as many as you need, not sure if they have a max, I'll end up with 3 Classic.

    Have read the manual regarding this and went on line to view he instructional videos. There is a place in Nova Scotia that has 30 or so of the Classics installed.

    Thanks for the constructive reply. Will go over the numbers again, and do more searching.

    Cheers

    Ernest
  • Panamretiree
    Panamretiree Solar Expert Posts: 278 ✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama
    solar_dave wrote: »
    Here is a nice way to setup a wireless repeater.
    http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=NU-644-202-0005&cat=NET

    I have 2 of these, one one the TED and one on my media computer.

    Looked at the unit, quite nice, compact and price is good. Will review again.

    Cheers

    Ernest
  • Photowhit
    Photowhit Solar Expert Posts: 6,006 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama

    "....1/0 for a ground is overkill , and rebar is worthless and a ground, as I was told, since that is what I used 10 years ago when I setup my original system...."

    Are you saying your rebar has survived the years. I am used to the galvanized plates we use in Canada, imagine they are available in the US as well. Haven't found them here yet.

    No I'm saying I had a friend who is an electrician who laughed when he saw my rebar connection. 8 foot Grounding rods (copper plated steel?) here cost @$12 and if you are in a naturally damp environment its likely all you'll need. Available here at electrical supply places, get a good clamp while your there.

    I don't know the 'rules' here on the size of grounding wire, but the largest I think I've heard of on solar array is #4, I'm sure my lay-in-lugs won't take anything bigger than #4 and might not take that. Anything that survives a direct strike is a bonus, lightning "takes all paths". Though some of the engineers here might disagree with that statement, it's the easiest to understand.
    Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites,  Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
    - Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama
    I did read that the current draw in a 48V system is lower; therefore the batteries are not "shocked" with huge draws and may be better for longevity of the battery bank.

    Not so.
    The current from the two strings at 24 volts is twice the current from one string at 48 volts. But that "twice" current is split between the two strings, so each battery sees the same current in either configuration. The 48 volt system is slightly more efficient because those parts of the system that do see lower current (not the batteries or their interconnects) have lower resistive losses.
    Question for the Magisterium - for those completely off-grid -equalizing batteries, if what I've read is true, how does one achieve this maintenance aspect and keep the system operating if you are supposed to take the battery out of operation to do this. My take would be that you either use a genet for the maintenance period, or you have additional batteries, or strings of batteries to swap out.

    A battery selector switch will work, or just put a switch (and fuse) in series with each string.
    Adding a third string of 4-L16 batteries to the 24V system would only be $2K versus a 2nd string for the 48V system of $4K, something to consider.

    One string of batteries is optimal. Two parallel strings is acceptable. Three is looking for trouble.
    read: http://forum.solar-electric.com/showthread.php?14674

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama
    vtmaps wrote: »
    One string of batteries is optimal. Two parallel strings is acceptable. Three is looking for trouble.
    read: http://forum.solar-electric.com/showthread.php?14674

    --vtMaps

    And more than four is practically suicidal. :p

    Actually with higher Voltage systems the parallel batteries become less of an issue due to the same lowered affect of wiring resistance. But it's still a pain to have lots and lots of batteries and wires when fewer will do.

    Also when equalizing the standard practice is to treat the bank as a whole and equalize it all at once. Sometimes this is not desirable or possible, however, and 'bad' batteries do need to be isolated and treated separately. In a perfect world even lead-acid cells would be charged and monitored individually as needs to be done with lithium batteries.

    But alas the world is not perfect and neither are batteries.
    Nor are we. ;)
  • Photowhit
    Photowhit Solar Expert Posts: 6,006 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama
    Have read where batteries should be taken off line and allowed to "rest" to get an accurate battery condition.
    This is only true if your need to check battery capacity/condition by voltage, since you will have a battery monitor, this will be largely unneeded, unless you have a single cell/battery with issues. IMHO it is optimum to maintain a battery bank as a bank, keeping them in balance together. Likely if you have problems with a cell/battery you have allowed the system to be chronically undercharged.
    Question for the Magisterium - for those completely off-grid -equalizing batteries, if what I've read is true, how does one achieve this maintenance aspect and keep the system operating if you are supposed to take the battery out of operation to do this. My take would be that you either use a genet for the maintenance period, or you have additional batteries, or strings of batteries to swap out. Just curious.
    I break down equalizing into 2 categories, there is a regular maintenance equalizing done to your manufacturers specifications (most monthly, some 2-6 times a year and Trojans none) This is normally just done by your charge controller, most have a monthly setting and some allow for other time periods.
    ...And problem equalizing, when one cell is more than .02(some use different numbers) after maintenance equalizing, This is done under supervision of the battery checking the Specific gravity of the cells every hour and watching to see if the cell will come up to match the others, checking to see that the battery doesn't get too hot.

    Maintenance equalizing is normally done with out you even knowing it's happening, by your charge controller. Most inverters can handle the slightly higher voltage levels, some cheap ones will NOT and indicate "over voltage" warning. Check the Batter FAQs
    Adding a third string of 4-L16 batteries to the 24V system would only be $2K versus a 2nd string for the 48V system of $4K, something to consider.
    Adding batteries to an existing system is generally a bad idea, batteries should age together, if they are not hard worked and less than a year old this might be OK, but generally a bad idea.
    AC is still not out of the question as there are spit-AC units on the market with good SEER ratings, and even 120VAC units. Awful muggy here right now, and one does need a good nights sleep to enjoy one's cerveza. Still researching this aspect of our build. 240 VAC would be required, going to look into the different settings available on the various units.
    AC is a big load and choices should be made before considering your system. I literally built my cabin in the shade, built with 6" well insulated walls, and sized my cabin(tiny) and array all so I could have AC...
    I will be installing a Trimetric Battery Monitor, although the PentaMetric Battery monitor has some features that are interesting as well. I have used the Trimetric on our last boat.
    Trimetrics are good units and have been around for a while, but check to see if Midnite has released their battery monitor module for the Classic charge controller, once released you will want one(should be this year) as it will allow for proper charging while under load. Likely it will make the Trimetric redundant.
    Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites,  Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
    - Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
  • Panamretiree
    Panamretiree Solar Expert Posts: 278 ✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama
    Photowhit wrote: »
    "....1/0 for a ground is overkill , and rebar is worthless and a ground, as I was told, since that is what I used 10 years ago when I setup my original system...."

    Are you saying your rebar has survived the years. I am used to the galvanized plates we use in Canada, imagine they are available in the US as well. Haven't found them here yet.

    No I'm saying I had a friend who is an electrician who laughed when he saw my rebar connection. 8 foot Grounding rods (copper plated steel?) here cost @$12 and if you are in a naturally damp environment its likely all you'll need. Available here at electrical supply places, get a good clamp while your there.

    I don't know the 'rules' here on the size of grounding wire, but the largest I think I've heard of on solar array is #4, I'm sure my lay-in-lugs won't take anything bigger than #4 and might not take that. Anything that survives a direct strike is a bonus, lightning "takes all paths". Though some of the engineers here might disagree with that statement, it's the easiest to understand.

    Thanks for the info, I'm still going to use rebar and thanks again for the wire size info, #4 is much better. Rebar is readily available here and is used all the time, not many code issues down here.

    Lightning down here would be interesting. The panel supports will be screwed into the roof metal structure (there is a picture in one of my earlier posts) and it would be energized as well I would imagine. Don't want it to happen though.

    Cheers
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,613 admin
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama

    If you have a good chance of direct lightning strike--You might want to look at putting lightning rods and cabling on the build/roof line down to the earth/ground rods. In general, even a steel/metal building is not considered electrically capable of managing the energy from a direct strike (I guess it will poke holes in the building and create plasma at any of the multitude of poor electrical connections (lap joints, etc.).

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama

    i'm agreeing with bill on this and will add that although the rebar is allowed as a ground point here in the states, i don't agree with it as anybody up here knows in looking at concrete with rebar in it over a decade or so is severely corroded. even our bridges that have thick steel girders and such do not last long. i also do not trust the conductivity of the cement to maintain good conduction with the surrounding earth. it is my belief that this was allowed only to make it easier for construction crews to make a ground connection that would otherwise be difficult and more expensive to do properly.

    you may wonder why the difference. well a coper plated ground rod stops the steel from corroding. will the copper corrode. yes, to a point, but it will form a barrier and will be slowed in its corrosion process.

    it would be interesting for those able to measure the conductivity to see the difference first hand between rebar and a good ground rod and not what the industry says it is. of course we are talking of proper ground rods at least 8ft in length and not some cheap 4 or 6 footer that is too inadequate.

    all of this is my opinion and if it makes sense to you go with ground rods.
  • Surfpath
    Surfpath Solar Expert Posts: 468 ✭✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama
    This would draw the batteries down ~50% each night and not leave much for the morning when we want our coffee, eggs and toast

    Hi Ernest,
    In regards to two banks of batteries or one, my instinct points to the latter. Either eight 6v batteries in 2 parallel strings for the 24v, or those same eight batteries in one string for the 48. With one bank it ought to be more simple to measure how your overall system is working & easier to charge/equalize. With the 48v bank only 1 fuse is needed (I use one of those easy to install Blue Seas fuse blocks), and there'll be slightly less battery cabling.

    Regarding draw down in the morning. You could avoid any. At 6am in our house, coffee (french press), eggs & toast (gas stove) dont need the batteries.

    I see that you have speced quite a lot of PV (1800+ watts per array) for a 420 L-16 Amp hour bank. That's good, it'll help you to avoid a lot of generator run time in the rainy season.
    Outback Flexpower 1 (FM80, VFX3048E-230v, Mate, FlexNetDC) 2,730watts of "Grid-type" PV, 370 AmpHrs Trojan RE-B's, Honda 2000 watt genny, 100% off grid.
  • Panamretiree
    Panamretiree Solar Expert Posts: 278 ✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama
    Surfpath wrote: »
    Hi Ernest,
    In regards to two banks of batteries or one, my instinct points to the latter. Either eight 6v batteries in 2 parallel strings for the 24v, or those same eight batteries in one string for the 48. With one bank it ought to be more simple to measure how your overall system is working & easier to charge/equalize. With the 48v bank only 1 fuse is needed (I use one of those easy to install Blue Seas fuse blocks), and there'll be slightly less battery cabling.

    Regarding draw down in the morning. You could avoid any. At 6am in our house, coffee (french press), eggs & toast (gas stove) dont need the batteries.

    I see that you have speced quite a lot of PV (1800+ watts per array) for a 420 L-16 Amp hour bank. That's good, it'll help you to avoid a lot of generator run time in the rainy season.

    Thanks for the input. Have considered the one bank versus two bank issue. The issue for me is the 24V - 48V conundrum. I have looked at the new RE batteries that everyone is now putting forward (surrette/trojan and others) - the L16 2V batteries that are the L16 6V battery with the internals connected to give a 2V battery at ~1100 AH. 12 of these are only $1K more than 8 - L16 6V 420 AH batteries and would give me a single string for a 24V system. I do not want to use 2V batteries for a 48V system as we are now talking some serious coin. Sourcing equipment here is also a challenge.

    Having the 8-L16 6V 420 AH batteries in a 48V configuration gives me the same power as 2 parallel strings in a 24V system. I will have to look at the array sizing as I think that there is sufficient panels already; however, Chris Olson has a very good point in that he is concerned about the 30% percent sunny day, and not the perfect sunny day that is not always here. In this regard, I am looking at a few more panels to max out the requirement, and keep everything percolating.

    Also saw another fellows web site (from these forums) and he put together a small current divider that regulates the charge to the batteries and to the loads during the day. It directs current into the battery bank depending on the charge of the battery bank. As the battery bank discharged more current is diverted to the loads. Will be looking at this to digest what he has done.

    i also find it quite interesting that the Marine Industry aka Blue Sea and others are often mentioned in these forums.

    Thanks for the info. 48V system does give a few more options regarding inverters.

    Nothing is final until the order and cheque is cut.

    Cheers

    Ernest
  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama

    given a choice between 24v and 48v battery setups for a whole house, nearly all here would opt for the 48v setup. the 2v l16s really have 3 cells paralleled within the casing and i suppose if one had to parallel this would be the best option as it avoids interconnection shortcomings. putting those same cells in series for 6v is the better option and the higher battery voltage will help with voltage drop losses that would hinder those once in awhile everything big started at once deals. i know it's rare, but it'll happen sooner or later.
  • Panamretiree
    Panamretiree Solar Expert Posts: 278 ✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama
    Surfpath wrote: »
    Hi Ernest,
    In regards to two banks of batteries or one, my instinct points to the latter. Either eight 6v batteries in 2 parallel strings for the 24v, or those same eight batteries in one string for the 48. With one bank it ought to be more simple to measure how your overall system is working & easier to charge/equalize. With the 48v bank only 1 fuse is needed (I use one of those easy to install Blue Seas fuse blocks), and there'll be slightly less battery cabling.

    Regarding draw down in the morning. You could avoid any. At 6am in our house, coffee (french press), eggs & toast (gas stove) dont need the batteries.

    I see that you have speced quite a lot of PV (1800+ watts per array) for a 420 L-16 Amp hour bank. That's good, it'll help you to avoid a lot of generator run time in the rainy season.

    Can you post the info on the Blue Sea fuse block. Had the catalogue, but left it on the boat we just sold, who knew it would come in handy down here.

    Cheers

    Ernest
  • Surfpath
    Surfpath Solar Expert Posts: 468 ✭✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama
    Can you post the info on the Blue Sea fuse block. Had the catalogue, but left it on the boat we just sold, who knew it would come in handy down here.

    Here it is Ernest,
    I got it off Amazon (here's the link to the 5191 single fuse holder). There are other places that stock it (eg NewEgg). It comes with a little red "hat" that keeps the post nut covered.

    http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5191-Terminal/dp/B0019ZBTV4/ref=pd_sim_sg_1

    It just sits there on the battery post, very unobtrusive, doesn't get in the way. Fuses are about 13-18us each.

    Pretty solid.
    Outback Flexpower 1 (FM80, VFX3048E-230v, Mate, FlexNetDC) 2,730watts of "Grid-type" PV, 370 AmpHrs Trojan RE-B's, Honda 2000 watt genny, 100% off grid.
  • Blackcherry04
    Blackcherry04 Solar Expert Posts: 2,490 ✭✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama

    Here is a Blue Sea Discounter that carries everything they make. The only bummer about that fuse holder is the mounting hole is 3/8 " and the post is 5/16 " .

    http://pkys.com/
  • Panamretiree
    Panamretiree Solar Expert Posts: 278 ✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama

    Have done some more data mining on this site. More information than I can ever assimilate; however, it brings up some interesting issues that I need to resolve. Also using the formulas I have found in the various posts. Don’t poke too many holes in my logic, don’t want the ship to take on too much water before it even sets sail.

    This is a long rant; however, I trust that for those of you who do read it, that I have logically put my thoughts on paper so to speak.

    First thing is the requirement for 100AH per kW of inverter, with one poster saying a minimum of at least 80%. I notice from signature blocks that several people have 400 or so AH battery banks connected to an XW6048 (the price difference between an XW4024 and XW6048 is ~$600.00). I expect this is the total AHs for the battery bank and not the 50% draw down rate. I would expect that “rules of thumb” have been further tweaked as people have been off grid longer and technology has developed. In this instance I would say that Generator Support is one of the new paradigms that in the past was not available. I would also submit that companies are developing and producing new equipment, and designing into firmware/software new protocols that make solar power systems more effective and efficient..

    I have sourced US battery L16 420AH for my system. No special reason, just that these are available here in Panama, I have not found other brands such as Rolls or Trojan of this size here at this time.

    For myself, if I were to go with a 48V system, and having sourced US battery L16 with 420 AH at the 20 Hr rate. This gives me a workable AH of 210 for the battery bank that is ~7560 watt hours of power (210AH * 48V * .75 system efficiency). Having done my load analysis and separated it into daytime and night time loads with each being approximately equal at ~3200 watt hrs. The battery bank I have sized would easily handle the night time loads and give me capacity for getting going in the morning.

    The temperatures here in Las Uvas, Panama are such that the system will be operating somewhere in between STC and NOTC values. I will be using the NOCT rating values for my calculations. I am also using the sizing tool and using both STC and NOCT values to compare sizing issues. Another reason for using the NOCT rating values is that Photowit recommended it and after reflecting on his suggestion, and that it made sense, I am doing just that. This drops the panel rating to 229 watts at 45 deg C. Where we live it averages 30ish on the celsius scale year round, so in this case it would be prudent to use the NOCT ratings. We also have an annual daily average of 3.5 hrs of sunlight.

    Using this as the basis for the array size, for a battery bank of 420 AH with a 50% usable amount of 210 AH, I would need an array size of:

    210AH*57.6V charging*1/0.77 panel+controller derating*0.05 rate of charge (ROC) = 785 watt array minimum
    210AH*57.6V charging*1/0.77 panel+controller derating*0.10 rate of charge (ROC) = 1570 watt array nominal
    210AH*57.6V charging*1/0.77 panel+controller derating*0.13 rate of charge (ROC) = 2042 watt array maximum

    Taking into consideration that we will be disconnected from the grid, the solar array should be able to replenish the battery bank and provide power for daytime loads of ~3200 watt hrs.

    I will need 9 of the 305W panels at an NOCT of 229W for this array size. I would be able to use a single controller and have 3 panels in series with 3 parallel strings.

    The array size based on the NOCT rating of 229W would be 2061 watts. Charging current from this array would be:

    2061W*.77/57.6V= 27.55 amps (dividing by system voltage of 48V = 33.06 amps)

    The 13% charging rate on a 420AH – 50% usable of 210AH is 27.3 amps. This array size would provide adequate charging for the battery bank size. This array size would also meet the requirement to equalize the batteries through the CC if needed, on a good day of course.

    With this in mind, and the sentiment that the array should be sized to deal with battery bank charging and daytime loads, installing 12 panels at 229W would give me an array of 2748 watts. Charging current from an array of this size would be:

    2748W*0.77/57.6V 48=36.38 amps (divided by system voltage of 48V = 44 Amps)

    This would provide additional current for daytime loads.

    Adding a supplemental, smaller array of 6 panels configured as 3 panels in series with two parallel strings would give an array size of 1374W (NOCT rating of 229W per panel). This would provide additional charging current or current for daytime loads of:

    1374*0.77/57.6V= 18.36 amps (divided by system voltage of 48V = 22.04 amps).

    Of course all this is based on the perfect day, but we all know this is rare and often not the case. For us here it does happen to fit about a 4 1/2 month window from mid December to end April; however, it is the wet season that needs to be addressed with the array and battery bank sizing.

    I have been watching with interest, the weather of late and we have had some days where the sun never peeked through the cloud cover and it rained. With this in mind, the extra solar panels, in my opinion will be needed. I also get an extra CC for redundancy.

    I have also been thinking about how to figure out what the batteries consume for charging and what the loads consume. I expect that taking the amps coming from the CCs and what the inverter is pumping out to the loads and doing the math, I should be able to determine what went where and how much.

    I have been discussing a 48V system so far, but have not ruled out a 24V system. In this case, I submit the following charging rates for a 420 AH battery bank – 50% usable at 210 AH:

    210AH*28.8V charging*1/0.77 panel+controller derating*0.05 rate of charge (ROC) = 392 watt array minimum
    210AH*28.8V charging*1/0.77 panel+controller derating*0.10 rate of charge (ROC) = 856 watt array nominal
    210AH*28.8V charging*1/0.77 panel+controller derating*0.13 rate of charge (ROC) = 1113 watt array maximum

    For charging, this would give me (using the max array size for 13% xharging):

    1113W*.77/28.8V= 29.75 amps (divided by system voltage of 24V = 35.7 Amps) – more than adequate to recharge the batteries, and provide for house loads during the day.

    I would need a solar array of :

    1113W/229W panels= 4.86 panels, let’s round it up to 5 Panels.

    Since this 24V system mentioned above deals with a single string of 4-L16 batteries with a 20Hr rating of 420AH – 50% usable at 210AH, I would need to have a second string of 4-L16 420 AH batteries to give me the required watt hours per day, because a single string would only be able to provide power for night time loads and be drawn down to 50% SOC.

    Using this new battery bank size of 840 AH – 50% usable of 420AH, I would need an array sizing of:

    420AH*28.8V charging*1/0.77 panel+controller derating*0.05 rate of charge (ROC) = 785 watt array minimum
    420AH*28.8V charging*1/0.77 panel+controller derating*0.10 rate of charge (ROC) = 1570 watt array nominal
    420AH*28.8V charging*1/0.77 panel+controller derating*0.13 rate of charge (ROC) = 2042 watt array maximum

    Using the array for a 13% charging rate I get:

    2042W*.77/28.8V= 54.6 amps (divided by system voltage of 24 = 65.5 amps)

    The 13% charging rate for a 420AH battery bank on a 24V system is 54.6 amps. From the above there is sufficient charging current being supplied from a 2042 watt array.

    It is also an array size of 9 panels. Using the CC sizing tool from MidNite Solar indicates that at the 305W STC rating for the Helios panels, an array of 6 panels, 3 in series with two parallel strings, or 2 panels in series with 4 parallel strings can be accommodated by one Classic 150 controller. This is short of the 9 panel requirement for the 13% charging rate for an 840AH battery bank – 420AH usable at 50%.

    The best array sizing and configuration for this size battery bank would be two small arrays at 1830W (panel at 305 STC rating) – 1374W (panel at 229W NOCT
    Rating).

    Each array would provide charging amps at the 229W NOTC rating of:

    1374W*.77/28.8V= 36.74 amps (divided by system voltage 24V = 44.08amps)

    The combination of the two smaller arrays should provide adequate charging amperage and current for daytime loads.

    Adding to this, I intend to get a generator capable of being used for Generator Support. Have not found a Honda dealer as yet, but I am still looking.

    Getting to the inverters, should the loads grow, and having a 24V system, there is the possibility of having to either upgrade to a 48V system, or put in a second 24V inverter (same kind).

    I mentioned above that there is not a lot of price difference between the XW4024 and the XW6048 - ~$420.00. The XW4024 is ~$2479.00 and the XW6048 is~$2897.00. (I’m expecting NorthGuy to chime in here regarding 100AH, etc.).

    Having to upgrade and install a second XW4024 would entail an additional cost of ~$2479.00 plus ancillary items. Installing an XW6048 with a battery bank of 420AH does not fit the “rule of thumb”, but it does fit a cost perspective. The XW4548 fits in the middle at ~$2689.00. Upgrading to a 48V system in the future is also an additional cost as well, and here in Panama, selling used solar system equipment is not as easy as up north.

    Reviewing our requirements, and what we could have to provide for ourselves in the future, the only real issue we have is the need for AC. We will not be putting in a well system (we are having a backup water system at 12 or 24 volts – TBD). Other than AC requirements, there are no big draws on the system. I am actively perusing forums and the web to find something that will fit the bill.

    The AC split systems we had installed in another house use 4 amps on high. I know this from seeing the fluke meter when it was installed. Still too much draw on the system. May have to have a separate panel for the AC units, having two installed, one for each bedroom. Having said this, power consumption for this unit is:

    220V*4 amps=880 watts

    As we get more acclimatized, we are starting to raise the temperature on the AC units in the house we are renting. Our new house will also have security grates over all windows and doors, and as such, will allow us to leave our windows open at night.

    Operating 1 AC unit for two hours would consume 1.76 kWh and seriously dip into the next day reserves. Operating two when company comes calling throws all game plans out the window.

    The AC question is still up in the air, and it is also required when there is no power being produced from the solar array. More work on this to be done.

    Lots of information out of my head, but need to do this. Decision time is coming.

    Cheers

    Ernest
  • westbranch
    westbranch Solar Expert Posts: 5,183 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama

    Ernest, I am not as familiar, intimately that is, as Photwhit is but from my perspective using NOCT would yield a more realistic PV production than STC does, and I think that reduction in output would include some, if not most, of the 77% degrade factor you have used in this calculation...

    The array size based on the NOCT rating of 229W would be 2061 watts. Charging current from this array would be:

    2061W*.77/48V= 33.06 amps


    PW will chime in I am sure...
     
    KID #51B  4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
    CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM 
    Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
    2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
    Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
    West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,613 admin
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama

    I think that this derating/sizing parameter is a typo:
    Using this as the basis for the array size, for a battery bank of 420 AH with a 50% usable amount of 210 AH, I would need an array size of:

    210AH*57.6V charging*0.5/0.77 panel+controller derating*0.05 rate of charge (ROC) = 785 watt array minimum
    210AH*57.6V charging*0.10/0.77 panel+controller derating*0.10 rate of charge (ROC) = 1570 watt array nominal
    210AH*57.6V charging*0.13/0.77 panel+controller derating*0.13 rate of charge (ROC) = 2042 watt array maximum

    I would replace them all with "1" (1/0.77) and everything else is OK (including the answers)--Same copy and paste error in the rest.
    210AH*57.6V charging*1/0.77 panel+controller derating*0.05 rate of charge (ROC) = 785 watt array minimum
    210AH*57.6V charging*1/0.77 panel+controller derating*0.10 rate of charge (ROC) = 1570 watt array nominal
    210AH*57.6V charging*1/0.77 panel+controller derating*0.13 rate of charge (ROC) = 2042 watt array maximum

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • NorthGuy
    NorthGuy Solar Expert Posts: 1,913 ✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama

    I think an interesting problem to discuss here is the weather. Wet season has lots of cloudy days. This apparently very bad for solar system. I think most people know very little about Paname weather.

    Do you get any sunny days during the wet season? How many? How far apart?

    Does it get colder when it's cloudy? Do you need less (or may be no) air conditioning during the cloudy season?

    Is your intention to survive the rainy season with the generator? Or do you want to produce some solar energy too?
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,613 admin
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama

    I usually use the "charging voltage" of ~29 volts (if 24 volt battery) for this equation:
    2042W*.77/24= 65.5 amps

    If you normally only discharge the battery by 25% (75% state of charge), the system is going to get up to absorb set point pretty quickly. You will only see 24 volts if the batteries are well discharged (less than 50% charged).

    The 0.77 derating is with "warm to hot panels" and you should not need to derate further (in freezing weather and below, you can get significantly more power--10-15% or more).

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama
    For myself, if I were to go with a 48V system, and having sourced US battery L16 with 420 AH at the 20 Hr rate. This gives me a workable AH of 210 for the battery bank that is ~7560 watt hours of power (210AH * 48V * .75 system efficiency).

    I wonder about using the 75% system efficiency in this calculation of 'workable AH'. I believe that number (75%) has two components:

    1) The first component represents your inverter efficiency... Does your inverter really consume 25% of your energy? This first component can be subdivided: Actual efficiency of inverter and self consumption of inverter.

    2) Peukert effect. Large loads (greater than C/20) take more than their calculated kwh out of the battery.

    Anyway, depending on how you design your system, you should be able to get that 75% a good bit higher.

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • Panamretiree
    Panamretiree Solar Expert Posts: 278 ✭✭
    Re: Bulding new Off Grid Home in Panama
    BB. wrote: »
    I think that this derating/sizing parameter is a typo:



    I would replace them all with "1" (1/0.77) and everything else is OK (including the answers)--Same copy and paste error in the rest.



    -Bill

    Bill

    Originally had it as "1/0.77" and thought I had made a mistake so I changed it. Was looking at a lot of info and it was getting late.

    Cheers

    Ernest
  • jeffkruse
    jeffkruse Solar Expert Posts: 205 ✭✭✭
    Re: Building new Off Grid Home in Panama

    I think it was mentioned before but just in case it wasn’t.

    After a certain period of time you should not add batteries to existing batteries (IE: and another bank after 2 years).

    So unless you plan on adding the third bank within a year don’t consider adding a bank an option.

    I would also get lots of clouds in the afternoons her in Puerto Rico. I very slightly oriented my panels to favor the morning sun. With 2K of panels I would avg 8KWH/Day in the summer.
  • Panamretiree
    Panamretiree Solar Expert Posts: 278 ✭✭
    Re: Building new Off Grid Home in Panama
    jeffkruse wrote: »
    I think it was mentioned before but just in case it wasn’t.

    After a certain period of time you should not add batteries to existing batteries (IE: and another bank after 2 years).

    So unless you plan on adding the third bank within a year don’t consider adding a bank an option.

    I would also get lots of clouds in the afternoons her in Puerto Rico. I very slightly oriented my panels to favor the morning sun. With 2K of panels I would avg 8KWH/Day in the summer.

    Thanks. It has been mentioned and I did know this. Good to be reminded. Have thought a lot about the orientation of the array(s). If I put all panels on the front roof area, I will capture all of the morning sun and be good up to 2 to 3 in the afternoon.

    Cheers

    Ernest