AGS settings for Outback FM60

Re: AGS settings for Outback FM60

Hi BajaSun,

OK on the battery selector switch. But, if this switch has an Off position, where neither string of batteries is connected to the inverter, the inverter could possibly be damaged by the CC still supplying current to the input of the inverter, without having batteries connected. This MIGHT damage the inverter. Sone CC regulate voltage slowly under certain conditions.

If the Perko switch does not have an Off position, this should not be much of a problem, if the A - B switching is not done quirkly IMHO.

Vic

Re: AGS settings for Outback FM60

BajaSun wrote: »

I just had a thought (amazing!) - the RTS sensor is on one of the batteries which is disconnected and likely is colder than the charging ones - could that be it? I can ck temp with the multimeter now.

Surprised that no one brought that to your attention. What your doing now is battery management, that's the average person doesn't do or doesn't want to do. I gave up on this thread because your getting the advise that is all over the place.

If your going to charge with a generator in Bulk with a 11 KW generator you need to be getting all the charge you can and drop the generator just before you hit absorb and let the FM take over. By cutting it back to 9 amps, your wasting more money on gas then you'd spend buying a new set of batteries every year.

Re: AGS settings for Outback FM60

Cariboocoot wrote: »

I know of no way to check temperature with a multimeter.

Some do have the capability with a plug in module that just uses the display on the DVM, some could have it built in. These days they can put a camel hump on a dog.....lol

Re: AGS settings for Outback FM60

BajaSun wrote: »

but then the FM reads "charged" while the Mate is still saying " charging". This is different as before the FM would read "absorb" as that is the setpoint on FX and FM. FM is holding at 28.8V

If the FX (via the mate) is charging and the FM is charged, it means that the FX has held the batteries at the absorb voltage for long enough that the FM thinks the batteries are fully charged. The FM would like to go to float, but the FX is holding the voltage above float voltage.

--vtMaps

Re: AGS settings for Outback FM60

with 45Adc you are just over 11% charge rate and once you move the RTS to the working bank you will be all set... the CC will back off the Voltage (and Amp) rate if the CC uses Temp compensation in absorb and float.

Based on results you may need to fine tune things later.

Re: AGS settings for Outback FM60

BajaSun wrote: »

I can sandwich it in there which will make it easy to move back and forth. Another reason I bought these AGM's was lack of space so I have a custom rack for them to sit on their sides, one above the other with approx 2" of space between them. It's a really nice setup.

You have these batteries laying Horizontal laying on their sides ?? This might be a Red Flag, I know Gel's you can. The electrolyte is in envelopes, is this a problem ?? I did look on Concorde's web site, it didn't say.

Re: AGS settings for Outback FM60

Regarding these exact AGMs being on their sides, dunno. BUT, it is quite common to see AGMs in racks, on their sides.

The one (probably small, in this case) disadvantage) of racking batteries vertically is that it usually increases the temperature differential across the bank.

VRLA -- sealed -- batteries are the most temperature-sensitive batteries, and should have the tightest temperature vs charge voltage of any Lead Acid battery, and racks often work against this. But this bank is physically small. Again an insulated battery box should help reduce the temp differential. However, in the Summer, it would be best for the bank's box to have good ventilation, and perhaps some cooling in the power room (?).

As much as I dislike multiple battery strings, in the case of AGMs, two strings with a switch seems like a very good approach, if the strings are sized large enough that one string can be rested for a sufficiently long interval to allow measuring resting V.

Regarding switching the RTS, this could be an issue, although an insulated batt box would help reduce the differential twix each string, and AGMs are relatively efficient during recharge (and thus reducing the heating from the Absorb stage). But, the point in recharge that needs the tightest control of voltage is in Absorb, where relatively more heat is dumped into the batteries, even AGMs.

Too bad that the battery switch does not have "Supervisory Contacts" that would allow using a relay to switch twix two different RTSes depending which string is being charged. This could be done externally, but would be a bit of a pain.

And, regarding all of the differing advuce; We all run what we have, and do the best we can. Yes, Baja's genset is "too large" But it is what is available, and it is much better to run it on the dark days than running none at all .. of course. Sealed batteries are quite sensitive to Vabs and Vfloat, but things will average out, probably OK.

Moving the RTS seems like a poor solution, and will probably will not always be done, and will subject the RTS to possible mechanical damage from the process. There is probably an A/B switch for telephones that could be used for the selection of one-of-two RTSes one on each string.

Again, would suggest that the RTS be attached with either the included double-sided tape, or just with tape over the top of the RTSes. Then, place a square of 1" styrofoam over the top of each RTS. Attach this insulation with tape, midway down each of the selected batteries. An insulated battery box should help the temps to average the temps of all of the batts.

Regarding this quote from westbranch, "with 45Adc you are just over 11% charge rate and once you move the RTS to the working bank you will be all set... the CC will back off the rate if the CC uses Temp compensation in absorb and float",

Probably, you are just not quite stating it like you wished, OR I have misunderstood what you are saying ... , BUT, the RTS's compensation is for charger VOLTAGE, not charge rate (current). A reduced Vabs or Vfloat would reduce the current somewhat, but, IMHO, this is a secondary effect of reducing the voltage when the temps are above the nominal speced by the manufacturer. A bit of a nit pick, I know.

Nothing needs to be perfect, and never is anyway. It is a good situation that Baja is asking these questions, here, now. A lot of info/opinion to digest. Good Luck. Vic