System design rev 1

2»

Comments

  • kellylipp
    kellylipp Registered Users Posts: 21 ✭✭
    #32
    Re: System design rev 1

    I assume that these panels will not be mounted on the RV itself?

    Why not design a 12V system for the RV and invert some of that to power the 110V loads in the RV? That rather than build a 24V inverter system to power the RV that wants mostly 12V stuff anyway...

    Also, I have a 50A connector on my fiver. But you can run 110V 30A into it with the proper plug adapters.

    I guess this gets back to loads for me: do you really have anything that needs 204V

    Kelly
    · Share on Twitter
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    #33
    Re: System design rev 1

    The confusion is coming from there being two different systems discussed: one on the existing RV, and another to power a future shop. The OP is hoping there might be some practical way to consolidate the two so that redundancy is reduced if not eliminated. Thus if the RV can be outfitted with one Magnum, say, then the shop could draw from that as well and if more power was needed additional inverters could be stacked to meet the demand.

    Not sure how practical that would work out to be, as the shop demands would be largely unpredictable and inconsistent possibly requiring a very large system that would sit idle most of the time.
    · Share on Twitter
  • Normok
    Normok Solar Expert Posts: 36 ✭
    #34
    Re: System design rev 1
    kellylipp wrote: »
    I assume that these panels will not be mounted on the RV itself?

    Why not design a 12V system for the RV and invert some of that to power the 110V loads in the RV? That rather than build a 24V inverter system to power the RV that wants mostly 12V stuff anyway...

    Also, I have a 50A connector on my fiver. But you can run 110V 30A into it with the proper plug adapters.

    I guess this gets back to loads for me: do you really have anything that needs 204V

    Kelly

    This is something I have considered but only for the 12v loads (water pump, lights, antenna amp, stereo, furnace). I guess the reason Im trying to consolidate everything else is because it is my estimation that batteries will the largest expense of this system and I am really trying to avoid having 2 battery banks(1 for rv 110v -1 for shop 110v). I realize I will have to augment the 12v battery system on the trailer but that shouldnt be too much - just didnt want to have 2 additional battery banks for 110v loads.
    · Share on Twitter
  • CATraveler
    CATraveler Solar Expert Posts: 98 ✭✭✭✭
    #35
    Re: System design rev 1

    Do you need (or want) 240V? Very few RVs have 240V appliances. It would be very easy to set up an outlet that is 120V on the 2 legs with a dual CB limit of 25A (non standard RV/NEC plug) which would give you 6KW instead of the 3.6KW 30A plug. However if you have load shedding then it will default to 120 @ 30A.
    · Share on Twitter
  • CATraveler
    CATraveler Solar Expert Posts: 98 ✭✭✭✭
    #36
    Re: System design rev 1

    A single 50A CB connected to both of the rigs hot legs would be more flexible again if you don't need 240V.
    · Share on Twitter
  • Normok
    Normok Solar Expert Posts: 36 ✭
    #37
    Re: System design rev 1

    As far as the trailer goes there are no loads that use 240v but in the future I could forsee a use if even rarely for 240v. I guess this aspect will determine which inverter I choose. Side note: My solar panels and my classic 150 arrived. Im installing the panels today and plan to just see how the charge controller works charging my 12v system...wish me luck.
    · Share on Twitter
  • mtdoc
    mtdoc Solar Expert Posts: 600 ✭✭
    #38
    Re: System design rev 1
    Normok wrote: »
    As far as the trailer goes there are no loads that use 240v but in the future I could forsee a use if even rarely for 240v. I guess this aspect will determine which inverter I choose.

    It shouldn't. You can reliably and efficiently later add an auto-transformer to a 120V inverter system to run 240V loads. Also keep in mind that some 120V inverters can be stacked - adding a second one later to give 240 Volt output.
    · Share on Twitter
  • inetdog
    inetdog Solar Expert Posts: 3,123 ✭✭✭✭
    #39
    Re: System design rev 1
    Normok wrote: »
    As far as the trailer goes there are no loads that use 240v but in the future I could forsee a use if even rarely for 240v. I guess this aspect will determine which inverter I choose. Side note: My solar panels and my classic 150 arrived. Im installing the panels today and plan to just see how the charge controller works charging my 12v system...wish me luck.

    Luck!

    If you do not need 240 now, or even if you did, the consensus is that using a 120 volt inverter and a 120/240 volt transformer sized to your 240 volt load could be more efficient and more cost effective. You can even defer purchase of the transformer until you actually need it.

    PS: mtdoc: "Great minds......"
    SMA SB 3000, old BP panels.
    · Share on Twitter
  • kellylipp
    kellylipp Registered Users Posts: 21 ✭✭
    #40
    Re: System design rev 1

    Have fun with the install and remember, always, I mean never, let your wire runs be too long or your gauge to small...
    · Share on Twitter
  • Normok
    Normok Solar Expert Posts: 36 ✭
    #41
    Re: System design rev 1

    Ok guys got the panels installed and have the classic 150 charging up my battery....Ive set this up to charge my 12v system on my 5th wheel but the battery is too small to keep the furnace and other loads working through the night. So my question will the classic CC correctly charge the following battery http://www.balqon.com/store.php#!/~/product/category=3262346&id=13216609 . I know there has been several threads on lithium and I have read most of them and came away understanding I needed to have a bms with the batteries. This system appears to have a bms, is there anything I need to consider? Thanks again guys
    · Share on Twitter
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,613 admin
    #42
    Re: System design rev 1

    You might need to contact the vendor directly for charging information.

    Note that 16.0 volts charging may be an issue for some AC inverter--Many will shut down at 15.0 to 15.5 volts. And check with your 12 volt devices if they can run at 16.0 volts.

    Looks very interesting. No details about the BMS and CAN Bus that I can see...

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
    · Share on Twitter
  • Photowhit
    Photowhit Solar Expert Posts: 6,006 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #43
    Re: System design rev 1
    kellylipp wrote: »
    ...never, let your wire runs be too long or your gauge to small...

    Awesome a Solar farewell, like a Photojournalist "...f/8 and be there"
    or truckers "...keep it between the ditches"
    Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites,  Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
    - Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
    · Share on Twitter
  • Normok
    Normok Solar Expert Posts: 36 ✭
    #44
    Re: System design rev 1

    Hmmm I didnt even think about the 16v. I wont be hooking an inverter to this as this is just for the 12v portion of the trailer.

    I dont think the led lights or the tank heaters will have a problem with the 16v but the furnace and the water pump maybe another thing. How much deviation can these type of appliances handle?
    · Share on Twitter

Categories