Best implementation for long cable runs?

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Sparkletron
Sparkletron Solar Expert Posts: 71 ✭✭✭✭
I have a modest 12V battery bank that I'd like to charge using PV when the grid is not an option. The problem is that the bank is at least 100 feet from where the panels would be located. Please accept that there is no way to bring them closer. I also don't want to change my bank to 24V or 48V. So I'm looking at 200 feet of fat expensive cable (perhaps 6 gauge) to keep losses to a minimum.

My question is: would it make more sense to convert the panel DC to AC right at the source, run 100 feet of cheap plentiful AC cable to the bank, and then convert it back to DC for charging? I already have a charger, so all I would need is an inverter, preferable one that doesn't mind harsh outdoor conditions near the panels.

Inverter efficiency loss versus wire resistance loss?

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  • mike95490
    mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Best implementation for long cable runs?

    Inverters won't do what you ask.

    Can you re-wire the panels to a 140VDC array , and run that high voltage to the battery, and use a MPPT charger controller to down-convert to the battery ? 95% efficient.
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • waynefromnscanada
    waynefromnscanada Solar Expert Posts: 3,009 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Best implementation for long cable runs?

    Sounds like you have a 12 volt system. But there are some questions - -
    1) What batteries do you have?
    2) what do you have for PV? Depending on what you have, you might be able to use a MPPT controller, run higher voltage DC to the controller at the batteries, which will down convert to 12 volts for charging.
    3)What are your loads on the battery?

    EDIT: Sorry Mike, I'm too slow, didn't see your post until after I hit send.
  • Sparkletron
    Sparkletron Solar Expert Posts: 71 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Best implementation for long cable runs?

    Thank you so much for your replies. I haven't purchased any panels yet, nor a charge controller.

    MPPT sounds good. However, the efficiency appears to depend on having enough panels wired in series to get the voltage as high as possible prior to the 100 foot run, where the controller then converts to AC and then back to the DC my bank requires. In this scenario, the actual number of panels wired in series matters as much as the overall wattage being put out by the array. For a small battery bank, it may not make sense, or may require lots of smaller panels versus a few large ones.

    My batteries are deep cycle AGM. As I said my bank is modest, only 2 x 110 for 220 Ah, but it would still be useful for me to have alternate ways to charge them. I have a generator, but I'd like to take advantage of my sunny location in AZ. I also want to leave room for some expansion, because we all know how addictive energy empowerment is.
  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Best implementation for long cable runs?

    the wire efficiency increases with the increase in voltage, but the controller efficiency goes down with higher voltage. now you haven't said what you intend to run with these batteries and what their draw is, but i'll approach this from the angle of good charge %. the range we recommend for charging is between 5% and 13% with 10% a good overall point for most batteries. one good point is your agm batteries are more efficient and if you wanted to you could go above the 13% charge maxima we usually recommend without any problems.

    anyway, at 5% you need 11a and at 10% you need 22a to charge the batteries. pvs usually don't deliver this with stc ratings so a derating to about 77% is usually done here. first putting the current into watts we see 11a x 12v = 132w and 22a x 12v = 264w. now derating we have 132w/.77=171.43w and 264w/.77=342.86w.

    the voltage drop percentage can vary depending on the pv voltage and the current passed of the pvs you purchase. now this you can figure out with a v drop calculator like the one in my signature line. if you have a specific pv in mind tell us how many you intend to get and how you intend to wire them and we could give you a rough idea as to what gauge wire you'd want to run, however, you indicated too that you wish to expand this in the future so you will not get away with using small wire to do so as you will see in the calculator.
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Best implementation for long cable runs?
    Thank you so much for your replies. I haven't purchased any panels yet, nor a charge controller.

    MPPT sounds good. However, the efficiency appears to depend on having enough panels wired in series to get the voltage as high as possible prior to the 100 foot run, where the controller then converts to AC and then back to the DC my bank requires. In this scenario, the actual number of panels wired in series matters as much as the overall wattage being put out by the array. For a small battery bank, it may not make sense, or may require lots of smaller panels versus a few large ones.

    My batteries are deep cycle AGM. As I said my bank is modest, only 2 x 110 for 220 Ah, but it would still be useful for me to have alternate ways to charge them. I have a generator, but I'd like to take advantage of my sunny location in AZ. I also want to leave room for some expansion, because we all know how addictive energy empowerment is.

    You haven't quite got the hang of the MPPT thing.
    In practical terms the MPPT controller only cares that the Voc of the array isn't above its input limit. Otherwise they are about 90+% efficient at converting, and that is often a much lower loss thanthe V-drop over long runs and a charge controller.

    As Niel pointed out, for a good 10% charge rate your 220 Amp hours is going to want approximately 350 Watts of array. If you look at the available commercial panels you'd probably be buying three Kyocera 135 Watts for this; 405 Watts of panel. This is definitely on the threshold of where the MPPT advantage starts to show under normal circumstances. With the long wire run, it's probably your best bet. The losses in converting DC to AC and then back to DC to charge batterie to convert to AC ... Without doing the math I say "higher".

    BTW, in a "straightforward" 12 Volt configuration you're looking at 0 AWG for 100 feet and 22 Amps. Change that to 24 Volts and you could probably use 6 AWG. Go up to 48 Volts and you're looking at 10 AWG (rough estimates - not exact calculations).
  • Sparkletron
    Sparkletron Solar Expert Posts: 71 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Best implementation for long cable runs?

    Thanks again. This has been really helpful.

    I didn't mean to imply that getting the voltage up was for the benefit of the MPPT, but rather to avoid energy loss on the 100-foot run. From this standpoint, increasing the voltage would be beneficial regardless of whether I was using an MPPT or not.

    Is there any reason why I would want to get 12V panels when 24V panels seem better suited to my--actually--why aren't 24V panels the norm? It's not like you can attach a 12V panel directly to a 12V battery; you're always going to need some kind of charge controller. Meanwhile, I doubt my long-run scenario is unique; everyone could benefit from higher voltages, yes?
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Best implementation for long cable runs?

    There's two types of charge controller (well, more than but we tend to deal with two): MPPT and PWM.

    An MPPT controller will pretty much charge any system Voltage from any array Voltage that is higher. The PWM won't. If you try charging your 12 Volt system from a 24 Volt panel through a PWM controller much of the power is simply lost. Instead of 200 Watts of power you'll get something like 98 Watts - depending on the Vmp differences between the "ideal" 12 Volt figure and what's available from the "24 Volt" panel. Typically a "12 Volt" panel has a Vmp around 17-18 Volts whereas the "24 Volt" panels are about double that. The PWM controller can not convert that extra Voltage into charge current; the MPPT can.

    We've seen worse long wire runs than yours here too! I think the record was 600 feet from array to controller. Even with a MidNite Classic 250 or Xantrex 600 there can be problems. :cool:
  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Best implementation for long cable runs?

    higher voltage pvs work just fine if you use a mppt type controller to be able to downconvert to your 12v battery voltage.

    i did a bit of a run on a few calculations for rough illustrative purposes with various cc input voltages showing a good wire gauge to use around 2% v drop. note that for a 12v output at 11a this is going by the wattage here as the mppt controller will up the current nearly proportionally as it downconverts the voltage to give 22a at 12v.

    24v pv at 11a---- #2 copper wire at 1.83% v drop.
    36v pv at 7.34a---#6 copper wire at 2.05% v drop.
    48v pv at 5.5a----#8 copper wire at 1.84% v drop.
    60v pv at 4.4a---#10 copper wire at 1.87% v drop.
    72v pv at 3.67a--#10 copper wire at 1.56% v drop.
    84v pv at 3.14a--#12 copper wire at 2.12% v drop.
    96v pv at 2.75a--#12 copper wire at 1.86% v drop.

    so what happens if say you went with the 1st one at 24v and later decided to upgrade the system by another 24v 11a in pvs? this brings it to a total of 24v and 22a if you were to parallel them with the same wire. running the calculations it now shows it as,
    24v pv at 22a----#2 copper wire at 3.65% v drop. this is unacceptable.
    if you put another 24v in pvs at 11a in series with the other at 24v and 11a you get,
    48v pv at 11a----#2 copper wire at .91% v drop. this is very acceptable and is 25% of what it would be in parallel because cutting the current in half cuts the v drop % in half, but doubling the voltage will also cut the v drop % in half. this could be expanded to 48v at 22a total when paralleling another 48v pv at 11a to the original 48v pv at 11a and would be back to 1.83% and is still very acceptable.

    now #2 is a bit large so you may wish to go to a 48v pv input to start allowing the use of #8 copper wire. when you use higher voltages like 48v this means the pv expansions can go with single identical pvs in series until one reaches the danger zone for the controller's max input voltage. colder weather can push pv voltages even higher yet so one needs to take great care when venturing over 100v. also do the v drop calculations to be sure of your system losses for my calculations kept the same wattage and when adding pvs this ups the wattage at the same current.

    also keep in mind that the downconverting mppt controllers will limit the output current so one has to watch what they input to the cc so as to not impede the ability to gain through mppt by going with too many watts for the specified voltage output. for instance many mmpt ccs have a 60a limit. at 12v this is 720w as 12v x 60a = 720w. at 24v this is 24v x 60a = 1440w. and the last common output voltage of 48v is 60a x 48v = 2880w. remember we need more stc watts to get to the delivered watts due to that 77% derating and one can't be 100% certain that derating will be accurate as it may be more or less. one last point is the nec limits the controllers to 80% of their current output capability. now i and many others will agree how stupid this ruling is, but on the plus side if you do this you allow for 20% of mppt to take place too. there are many variables involved in a system as you can see and ultimately it could boil down to your decision on what you purchase now and what you propose for the future. now i know #8 is by far cheaper wire, but if you can swing say #6 that added current capacity could give you much more flexibility in the future and at the very least more efficiency with your initial system. i went with about 2% v drop as the goal and some say under 3% total while others say under 2% total and this would include the v drop % from the cc to the battery. that one should be as low as you can get it and definitely below 1% for that section of wire. that section will be at 12v and higher current so it will take a considerably larger wire and need to be as short as possible.

    well, i didn't expect to get long winded here and it was either overboard for you or just opened up more questions or even confused you so i'll stop now.
  • Sparkletron
    Sparkletron Solar Expert Posts: 71 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Best implementation for long cable runs?

    I can't thank you all enough for this info. I plan to follow your advice--all of it--and go with 6 AWG and an MPPT. It's not going to be easy to put the cable where it needs to go, and once I do it, I'm not going to ever want to do it again. So it makes sense to get it right (or at least OK) the first time.
    niel wrote: »
    also keep in mind that the downconverting mppt controllers will limit the output current so one has to watch what they input to the cc so as to not impede the ability to gain through mppt by going with too many watts for the specified voltage output. for instance many mmpt ccs have a 60a limit. at 12v this is 720w as 12v x 60a = 720w. at 24v this is 24v x 60a = 1440w. and the last common output voltage of 48v is 60a x 48v = 2880w.

    Can you explain this a bit more? Let's say that my MPPT had a 60a limit. Is that limit the input amps, the output amps, or both? If it's merely an input amp limit then it wouldn't seem to matter, since every time I add a panel in series, I increase the voltage, and thus maintain the same amps. For example...

    3 x 135W panels = 405W.
    3 x 12v per panel = 36v.
    405W / 36v = 11.5a.

    Now if I had 10 of those panels...

    10 x 135W panels = 1350W.
    10 x 12v per panel = 120v.
    1350W / 120v = 11.5a.

    If the limit is for the output then it would effectively limit me to 720W of power no matter how many panels I have. It would place an upper limit on the system as a whole (unless I gave up on a 12v battery bank). Mind you 720W is not a bad limit by any means! In fact it's exactly 720W more than I have right now. But it might make me consider a higher amp-rated MPPT.
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Best implementation for long cable runs?

    Charge controller ratings are by their output Amps. A 60 Amp MPPT controller can do 60 Amps at (using basic math here for demonstration purposes):

    12 Volts = 720 Watt array on the input
    24 Volts = 1440 Watt array on the input
    49 Volts = 2880 Watt array on the input

    You can over-size an array slightly which will compensate for the losses expected from heat, et cetera. But there's no sense in running a 1440 Watt array for a 12 Volt system as basically half the panels will be contributing nothing but heat.

    A quote from the Outback FM manual:

    The following are the maximum recommended wattage for the most common solar arrays under
    Standard Test Conditions (1000 watts per square meter to solar panel at 25° C or 77° F):
    • 12VDC battery systems—up to 1250 watts (FLEXmax 80) or 800 watts (FLEXmax 60) of solar panels
    • 24VDC battery systems—up to 2500 watts (FLEXmax 80) or 1600 watts (FLEXmax 60) of solar panels
    • 36VDC battery systems—up to 3750 watts (FLEXmax 80) or 1200 watts (FLEXmax 60) of solar panels
    • 48VDC battery systems—up to 5000 watts (FLEXmax 80) or 3200 watts (FLEXmax 60) of solar panels
    • 60VDC battery systems—up to 6250 watts (FLEXmax 60) or 4000 watts (FLEXmax 60) of solar panels
  • RandomJoe
    RandomJoe Solar Expert Posts: 472 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Best implementation for long cable runs?

    A couple reasons I got 12V panels instead of 24V, that could very well be a non-issue for most, is I was able to:

    1) Get panels from NAWS that were small enough to ship UPS (Kyocera KD135s), anything larger would have required freight. I was buying my panels slowly over time so...

    2) Get panels I could (barely!) manage to handle/install by myself. Not that it's hard to ask a friend / relative to come over, I'm just hard-headed that way... :roll:

    If it's merely an input amp limit then it wouldn't seem to matter, since every time I add a panel in series, I increase the voltage, and thus maintain the same amps. For example...

    3 x 135W panels = 405W.
    3 x 12v per panel = 36v.
    405W / 36v = 11.5a.

    Now if I had 10 of those panels...

    10 x 135W panels = 1350W.
    10 x 12v per panel = 120v.
    1350W / 120v = 11.5a.

    Two notes here:

    First, the current limit is on the output side. So you will get more *power* from the same charge controller by going with a higher voltage battery bank. One the plus side, some MPPT charge controllers will work at a variety of battery bank voltages so you could start with your small 12V bank, and later switch to a higher-voltage bank if you deisre. (You'll have to get new inverters, if you are using them, as I've not seen any of those that will switch voltages.)

    Second, your calculations are way off - you stand a good change of zapping your charge controller!

    A "12V panel" is NOT 12V! It will actually run closer to 17-18V at "max power point", and will be up around 25-28V open-circuit. When determining how many to series together, you have to use the open-circuit voltage and make sure they don't exceed the charge-controller's max voltage. So, with a 150V max input CC, you could THEORETICALLY string six 25V panels together.

    Note THEORETICALLY! There is also the potential (most particularly during very cold weather - perhaps not an issue for you) that the voltage goes even higher, so the safer limit would be five panels in series.