shunt selection
rama
Solar Expert Posts: 36 ✭
hi all,
Is there a general guideline on how to go about choosing a right-sized shunt? I know that they're usually rated in terms of mv and amps, but how do I choose?
There is no particular project in reference - it's just something I've always been wondering about.
Thanks & appreciate for any input
-erick
Is there a general guideline on how to go about choosing a right-sized shunt? I know that they're usually rated in terms of mv and amps, but how do I choose?
There is no particular project in reference - it's just something I've always been wondering about.
Thanks & appreciate for any input
-erick
Comments
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Re: shunt selection
First is the maximum current (100 amps, 500 amps, etc.).
Second is to pick the shunt that matches the calibration of the meter/battery monitor (100 amps @ 100 mV; 500 amp @ 50 mV; etc.).
Note that the ratio of current to mV can be played with to the get "correct value"... For example 500amp @ 50 mV and 1,000 amp @ 100 mV have the same ratio (calibration) as far as the meter is concerned (10 amps = 1 mV).
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: shunt selection
Yes; you follow the manufacturer's instructions.
In other words if you buy a Trimetric and it says you need a 500 Amp shunt for your application that's what you use.
That may sound horribly simplistic, but it works. -
Re: shunt selection
Dont use a shunt that is to higher rating than what the load will be.
example dont use a 500 a shunt if your load is only about 8a as the meter reading will be to inaccurate
conversely if your load is 48s dont use a 50 a shunt , use a 100a one. -
Re: shunt selection
Hi - thanks for all your input.
At what size would a shunt be considered TOO HIGH a rating for, say, a 50Amp MPPT controller? The manual states that a 500Amp/50mv should be used, but given what I just read here I should probably just go with a 100Amp one?
Thanks. -
Re: shunt selection
What charge controller requires a shunt? That isn't a typical application in my experience.
Maybe I've done too much today and am just too tired to understand. -
Re: shunt selection
Start with your "peak" current flow (either into or out of the battery bank).
If you draw a little power (say HAM radio) 24x7, then your charging current may be the peak current.
If you have a well pump on an Inverter, then that will probably be your peak current.
The idea is that the shunt/meter combination can measure (and safely pass) your maximum current flow.
Also, you need to review your battery monitor's manual. Some may be programmable for a whole bunch of shunts, others may require one specific shunt.
What battery monitor/meter are you looking to attach to the shunt?
Besides the solar charge controller, what other "high current" loads/charging sources will be on the bank?
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: shunt selection
Using a 500a shunt between either the panels or battery/ies is insane, use a 100a one far more accurate reading.
cariboocoot I will tell this but after I do I know EVERYONE will give me all the reasons why its wrong to do so, and in the reasons all will contradict themselves in their reasons.
I use a 50 a shunt before and after the PWM charge controller and 100a one between the 1000w inverter and the batteries. WHY ??? it gives me the readings of amps from device to device and it acts as a fuse if a major electrical problem occurs. -
Re: shunt selectionCariboocoot wrote: »What charge controller requires a shunt? That isn't a typical application in my experience.
Maybe I've done too much today and am just too tired to understand.
lol... ok let me explain myself. We got this charge controller here that "suggests" the use of a shunt for the battery so the controller can measure current in/out of the battery. I'm just trying to figure out what is the proper current rating I should choose in order to size for the right shunt. The controller has a 50A MAX charging current, but suppose the battery's hooked up to, say, a 2KW inverter operating at 24V, then there's the max current of about 83AMP. I should take the 83amp as reference? -
Re: shunt selection
ok - sorry never mind I see my questions have already been answered. You guys are super fast... Thanks!! -
Re: shunt selection
To get a little more specific:- 2,000 watt inverter * 1/21 volt minimum * 1/0.85 inverter eff = 112 amps maximum
And--it does depend on where you install the shunts... For a Battery Monitor, they are usually installed between the negative battery post(s) and the rest of negative connects so that you "monitor" all of the current going into and out of the battery bank.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: shunt selection
thanks BB - your thorough explanation with numbers are always much appreciated..:D -
Re: shunt selection......
I use a 50 a shunt before and after the PWM charge controller and 100a one between the 1000w inverter and the batteries. WHY ??? it gives me the readings of amps from device to device and it acts as a fuse if a major electrical problem occurs.
Shunts are supposed to be able to get quite hot, and I imagine they only "fail" when the solder or brazing lets go. I'd rather use a fuseable link from a car.Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister , -
Re: shunt selection
Mike if a 100a shunt is between a battery and a short in a device they fail at the laser cuts on the resistor and tend to not melt but "vaporize". ones with no laser cuts are usualy not that accurate.I try never to use them
A 100a shunt can withstand about 110a indefinately 120a for one hour 130a 30 mins 140a 15 mins 180a about 2 seconds.
have tested many many and found very consistant results,, far better at predictable failure than most fuses.
We use then in big quantities at work as combined fuses/shunts., does 2 jobs very well,cheap, easy to replace
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