Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
Comments
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Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
There are other "cheap" ways of making DC from AC... One of those is to use a small series capacitor + diode + filter circuit.
The "blocking" capacitor passes much more current on MSW than on TSW. And can cause the rest of the DC power circuit to overheat and fail.
Does Sanyo do something like this on their system--I have no idea.
Again--measure the standby AC amperage/current on grid power, and then measure it on your MSW inverter... If the current remains roughly the same, then I would assume that the circuitry is probably OK.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
I've been thinking of doing those measurements. I have a clamp-on meter,
but I wonder how accurate it's going to be with MSWs.?.
I wonder about my multimeter AC Amps mode.. Will it display the correct
amperage when measuring MSWs?
Since this is at 230vac, I'm pretty sure that I don't want to try wiring in my
little 120vac Kill-a-Volt. (It might get killed)..
Anyways, I'm still hoping to hear from someone who has done this..
I known that I'm not the first person on Earth that wanted to try
using MSWs with his Sanyo.. http://www.minisplitsystems.com/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=24KHS72
I'm still procrastinating on the purchase of the Ebay Stackable 2.5KW (48vdc 230vac)
So, I really can't do any testing yet.. -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
Yea, for measuring MSW--You really need True RMS reading meters.
There are 230 VAC versions of the Kill-a-Watt meters (Europe and elsewhere)--Have never seen one locally in the US.
They are not cheap, usually running $300 or more for good ones.
You can find some pretty cheap ones at Sears (!?!?!):
Greenlee True RMS Clamp Meter (AC only Clamp Current)
Craftsman Professional True RMS AC/DC Clamp Ammeter
Triplett True RMS AC/DC Clamp-On Meter
The above are below ~$150 each...
Personally, if you are working with solar, I would purchase the AC/DC current clamp type and pay the extra money over an AC only current meter. DC current clamp meters make diagnosing problems with parallel battery banks and solar panels strings so much easier... Plus you can measured AC/DC current flow to your loads as you research your system needs.
I have no idea about the quality or functionality of the above meters... I just typed "DC Clamp Meter RMS" and searched Sears.com
The very old models (a few years ago) of Kill-a-Watt meters would overheat their DC power supply on MSW inverters. Newer models do not.
Very interesting link from another thread here to an RV forum that showed a Kill-a-Watt meter reading RMS voltage--Elsewhere here--somebody else said their did not read RMS voltage.
Oh, by the way, from a 2008 thread of "Jessica"'s, "n3qik" did a nice set of measurements on a small 4cuft fridge and shows the differences between Grid/Sine and off-grid/MSW energy usage (using a Kill-a-Watt meter):Opps, forgot it had a PF reading. Back to square one.
Ok ran a more complete test between a MSW inverter and PSW grid supply.
The room was at 77 F.
4 CF Magic Chief refrigerator.
Results are rounded to the nearest tenth.
Temps are from a probe on top of compressor.
All other measurements are from the Kill-A-Watt.
Inverter
_____________Start____5M____10M____15M____20M____25M-End
Temp F.______105_____124____131_____136____140_____142 Peak
Amps________2.0_____1.9_____1.8_____1.8_____1.7_____0.0=OFF
P.F.__________.6_______.5______.5______.5_____.5______0.0=OFF
Watts________142_____123____115______113____109____0.0=OFF
AC Volts______121____120_____120_____120____120____120
Grid
_____________Start____5M____10M____15M____20M____25M-End
Temp F.______106_____125____130_____133____136_____136 Peak
Amps________1.4_____1.0_____1.0______.9______.9_____0.0=OFF
P.F.__________.8_______.7______.7______.7_____.7______0.0=OFF
Watts________134______97_____90______83_____83_____0.0=OFF
AC Volts______127____127_____127_____127____126____127
Worst case of ~30 more watts on a ~100 watt average load when running from a MSW inverter.
Note--the temperature measurements may not represent the "motor's true temperature" as these are sealed compressors with (most likely) lots of refrigerant flow around the motor and housing providing a refrigerant "buffered" temperature reading.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
"The "blocking" capacitor passes much more current on MSW than on TSW."
That's true, but since the pass-cap is in series with the DC load,
won't the total amount of current depend mostly on the resistance of the load??
If the load wasn't a big honkin cap, the cleanness of the input AC shouldn't matter a lot..
Or am I missing something..?. -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
I got the cheaper Sears model clamp with DC..
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482369000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
at the time, I was much more interesting in DC current..
That's an interesting table (Magic Chief), but still, I wonder how
accurate the Kill-a-Watt is when measuring MSWs.?.
It would be interesting to see if a resistive load measured the same
if driven with both MSW & Grid. (assuming the same voltages or factored in).
No, wait a sec! Resistive loads will draw more current when driven with MSWs..
Because after Zero-crossing, there is no slope! No slow increase in voltage.
It's just about instant.
So, over time, MSW wave asymmetry is likely going to look like more voltage
(and power) than RMS from the grid.
I can see why MSW inverters make loads use a little more power...
Here's my little Rosewill inverter. Looking very square..
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Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
It is the old "how cheap can I make the voltage regulator" question...
The blocking cap is a simple way of limiting AC current to, one example being a rectifier+zener clamp diode and filter cap. The cap provides a limited amount of current through the rectifier and the zener diode just clamps the voltage to 5 volts or whatever is needed to power the electronics.
With MSW (i.e., sharp edged square/step waves), to a capacitor sharp edges have more high frequency content than the slow edge of the sine wave.
So--the capacitor not only lets through the fundamental 60 Hz (like a sine wave), it also lets through the energy of the higher frequencies too--causing much more current flow through the rectifier and the zener diode to "toss" the "extra" energy away (overheating the zener). These small devices usually do not have much thermal mass and are not significantly heat sinked (again, to save money). So when they have extra heat to dissipate, they do not survive very well.
That is just one example, another is that, again the high frequency, causes circulating currents in the iron of a power transformer--those currents do not contribute any power to the 60 Hz flowing through the transformer but instead simply just heat up the iron in the transformer.
It sound like for example in the above fridge measurements, that an extra 30 watts to dissipate out of 100 nominal is not a big deal... But remember many of these guys are 80% efficient (plus or minus). So, 20% loss of 100 watts is 20 watts of "heat" to get rid of...
Now add an extra 30 watts of waste heat do to MSW--and the design now has to dissipate 1.5x more energy than the original design.
And, it may not kill things right away... Another very handy engineering rule of thumb is the 10C rule... For every 10C (18F) increase in temperature, the life of a component will be cut by 1/2. And a 20C increase will be a 1/2*1/2=1/4 life and so on...
So extra heat can be a very serious component of reduction of life.
Another is "sharp edges" of a MSW wave form can make things buzz/rattle/etc... A 60Hz sine wave has only the fundamental frequency. It is the equivalent of "shaking" at 60 (or 120 Hz).
A MSW square wave front is almost the equivalent of hitting something with a "hammer" (in engineering, we use "impulses" to characterize a system--like hitting a bell with a hammer and measuring the resonance frequencies that result)--- Lots of high frequency energy too. Probably does not cause much of a problem for most AC devices--but the buzzing sound can be very irritating.
Again, not saying I will know what will happen to your Sanyo--Just examples of why it is so hard to "guess" what will happen without detailed knowledge of the circuits and/or using a (preferably) True RMS current meter to measure the Sine and MSW current going into the Sanyo.
If the RMS value of current is similar for both Sine and MSW--I would not be to worried about the MSW causing overheating failures of your electronics.
Of course, if there are timing circuits that use the AC power as a frequency source--MSW can run 2x faster on those devices than a TSW will (again, the fast edges can confuse a frequency detector circuit for electronic timers).
Sorry for all the hand waving... I don't have much information here and I don't want to see a $1,000 repair bill because "BB." said it "should be OK to run YOUR Sanyo on an MSW inverter".
If it was my system--I would pop for a decent (i.e., cheap:roll:) True RMS AC/DC clamp meter and do some measurements. And if the TSW vs MSW currents are close (less than 10% difference)--I probably would run it on MSW (if it makes economic sense--I.e., saving $0.10-$0.20 per day vs toasting a $1,300 A/C system + labor == ~23 year payback on risk--Ummm).
I am very much a Risk vs Reward kind of guy... Sometimes the reward is just not worth the risk. (i.e., put an AC timer on the Sanyo to turn on 1-2 hours before you return home to reduce standby heater costs instead).
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
As I was researching some answer for this thread--I ran across a post (from John P?) or one of the other guys here that has a lab full of power analyzers...
His answer was that that the Kill-a-Watt was not accurate on MSW--But I would be surprised at how much the more expensive gear gives varying readings on MSW too (they don't agree either).
I think it was Solar Guppy that said his power analyzer cost him $10-$20,000 for his MPPT development lab.
The problem with digital sampling (which probably all the digital meters do) is that they have a upper frequency limit which they sample--So depending on the wave form, they may miss significant energy above XXXXHz (sharper edges, higher the frequency content).
Here is one paper (PDF) that discusses True RMS for use in AC power systems and the errors with non-RMS reading meters (no math). Recommend up to 50th harmonic or 2,500 Hz (50Hz) / 3,000 Hz (60Hz) for just simple "power line" measurements (supporting the non-linear loads that are out there).
Note, you can also get into AC wave form on a DC average---A True RMS meter should give the correct answer of AC RMS + DC RMS---But many meters will have a capacitor on the input to block the DC portion of the wave form.
So, when measuring RMS current--you have to know what the wave form might be, and how the meter measures in AC vs DC mode.
As I understand, the "gold standard" RMS reading meters use Caloric (heat) measurements to get the "true RMS" values--but those are not practical for our usage.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
Thanks for all your input BB.. Good stuff that I can make sense of..
That zener diode did enter my mind, but it seems like it should be connected
downstream, after the rectifier diode & a filter cap.
Kinda keeping it out of harms way, when the breaker is closed (at AC peak)
or the grid sends down some nasty power.
Anyways, you've just about sold me on sinewaves. Now where can I find
a 2.5kw (5kw peak) 48v 230vac inverter that won't break the bank.?. :roll:
Cheers,
Rich -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?As I understand, the "gold standard" RMS reading meters use Caloric (heat) measurements to get the "true RMS" values--but those are not practical for our usage.
-Bill
Yeah, that seems like the way to go. Measure the heat and get the real dope..
When I started thinking about how to measure a DIY MPPT circuit's DC power output,
I was kinda at a loss. As you say, sample rates of digital readouts are 'off' sometimes.
My bright idea for tweaking the pulse output, was to just use an old analog amp meter, or a big incandescent lamp.. -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?One thing to try--if you can plug your Sanyo into a Kill-a-Watt meter and look at the Power Factor reading when the A/C is "off".
If the PF is greater than 0.90 or so--It may be OK to try on MSW.
If the PF is less than 0.80 or so--then there is a good chance it will be damaged by running on a MSW inverter.
-Bill
I will do that during the week, and inform you, folks.
Now, regarding your suggestion: "(i.e., put an AC timer on the Sanyo to turn on 1-2 hours before you return home to reduce standby heater costs instead)..." Well, this I cannot do, because my entire house is either running from the Grid (from 6:00 PM 6:00 AM) or from my pv system [Transfer switch thing]. What I am doing now is just to switch back to the Grid as soon as I come home, power the Sanyo, and then about 2 hours latter, I turn it on. What I was trying to bypass was the 2-hour waiting, and, also, I wanted to have it "energized" all the time, just in case it is necessary.
[P.S.: My Sanyo is the 115 volt version]
Thanks again. -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
The manual for my 24,000 BTU Sanyo includes info on the 18KHS72 also.
One odd thing I noticed on the 17,500 BTU unit, there is no Crankcase heater..
http://sanyohvac.com/assets/documents/service/Service_KHS_18-24_72SeriesRevB.pdf
See page 35.
So, I'm thinking there is no reason to leave it in power standby,
when it's not going to be used. No oil is being kept warm.
What model Sanyo is your 115v version?? Does it really need to be kept warmed up? -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?The manual for my 24,000 BTU Sanyo includes info on the 18KHS72 also.
One odd thing I noticed on the 17,500 BTU unit, there is no Crankcase heater..
http://sanyohvac.com/assets/documents/service/Service_KHS_18-24_72SeriesRevB.pdf
See page 35.
So, I'm thinking there is no reason to leave it in power standby,
when it's not going to be used. No oil is being kept warm.
What model Sanyo is your 115v version?? Does it really need to be kept warmed up?
XRinger:
KS1271
There was a LONG discussion in this forum about the necessity to leave it in power standby. No definitive conclussion reached. When plugged but off, my unit draws around 10 watts.
Where would I look for a heater inside my unit? A picture would help me.
BILL:
Something must be wrong:
I just connected it to the msw inverter:
Kill-a-Watt readings:
Power Factor: .25
Hertz: 12
Voltage: 122
Watts: 8 - 10
What is going on? (I mean: "12" Hertz?; .25 PF?) -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?XRinger:
KS1271
There was a LONG discussion in this forum about the necessity to leave it in power standby. No definitive conclussion reached. When plugged but off, my unit draws around 10 watts.
Where would I look for a heater inside my unit? A picture would help me.
BI
Page 29 of your service manual shows a diagram like this one..
Only the diagram in your manual does not show a crank-case heater..
On my Sanyo, there are two white wires going down to the very bottom of the compressor.
The heater is looped around the outside and held tight by a coil spring in the center.
It takes me about 5 minutes with a #2 Phillips to remove the top and side covers. -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?BILL:
Something must be wrong:
I just connected it to the msw inverter:
Kill-a-Watt readings:
Power Factor: .25
Hertz: 12
Voltage: 122
Watts: 8 - 10
What is going on? (I mean: "12" Hertz?; .25 PF?)
The PF of 0.25 can be "correct"... The problem when many loads operating in "standby" have a little bit of stray/excess inductance or capacitance that becomes a major factor at low current values. (i.e., radio frequency filters on AC power lines draw a little bit of "out of phase" current too).
What is the amp reading for Grid and MSW? If nearly the same--then you may be OK to try MSW on standby). What are all the readings (volts, amps, hz, power factor, VA, etc. on Grid/MSW).
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
XRinger and Bill:
Thanks A LOT for all your trouble.
I wil do the Grid measurings this evening and tell you. Will check for the heater during the week. (Unlike you, I am no expert in electronics. Just a humble Humanities proffessor here in PR.)
Thanks again.Regarding Hz--I am guessing it is not reading your MSW information correctly. Timing circuits from AC MSW wave forms are not aways accurate--looks like that here (I have not seen anyone else reporting this problem before--so I am at a loss).
The PF of 0.25 can be "correct"... The problem when many loads operating in "standby" have a little bit of stray/excess inductance or capacitance that becomes a major factor at low current values. (i.e., radio frequency filters on AC power lines draw a little bit of "out of phase" current too).
What is the amp reading for Grid and MSW? If nearly the same--then you may be OK to try MSW on standby). What are all the readings (volts, amps, hz, power factor, VA, etc. on Grid/MSW).
-Bill -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?XRinger and Bill:
Thanks A LOT for all your trouble.
I wil do the Grid measurings this evening and tell you. Will check for the heater during the week. (Unlike you, I am no expert in electronics. Just a humble Humanities proffessor here in PR.)
Thanks again.
The KS1271 info that I found shows it's a Cooling only unit and does not use a heating strap.
Since your standby power use is very low, it's unlikely that it needs to be left on.
My heater uses about 60 watts normally. I would guess 5 or 10 watts of that is for the controller and the remainder is for heating.
Living in PR and using your Sanyo when it's hot outside, means your compressor is never going to be very cold when you turn it on.. 8)
Leaving it unplugged while you're out of the house will provide some protection against it being zapped by a lightning storm.. -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
"humble Humanities professor here in PR"... Those guys are about as rare as "humble engineers" or "humble moderators on solar forums".
Have a great day!
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?The KS1271 info that I found shows it's a Cooling only unit and does not use a heating strap.
Since your standby power use is very low, it's unlikely that it needs to be left on.
My heater uses about 60 watts normally. I would guess 5 or 10 watts of that is for the controller and the remainder is for heating.
Living in PR and using your Sanyo when it's hot outside, means your compressor is never going to be very cold when you turn it on.. 8)
Leaving it unplugged while you're out of the house will provide some protection against it being zapped by a lightning storm..
XRinger:
Yes, it is a Cooling only unit; and also yes, it is usually hot here in PR. In fact, where I live (west coast) temp never goes below 70f, and from june until november it is 80 - 92 almost always. Anyway, I as said, I will open the unit during the week to see if there is a crankcase heater inside.
Bill:
""humble Humanities professor here in PR"... Those guys are about as rare as "humble engineers" or "humble moderators on solar forums"...
Ok, that was hilarious. Maybe I am not "humble", what I meant was "ignorant".
I have the numbers, and I think they are worrysome:
Standby, Grid-connected:
Volts: 126
amps: .12
watts: it fluctuates from 8 to 10
hertz: steady 59.9
PF: .62
Standby, msw inverter:
volts: 120
amps: .34
watts: fluctuates from 7 to 9
hertz: kill-a-watt shows this: d[ (or dC)
PF: 19/20 -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
Your English is much better than my Spanish-- and my English is not a heck of a lot better.
You might be correct that it is saying dC or DC (not correct obviously). Ignore for now.
Grid = 0.12 amps ; PV = 0.62
MSW= 0.34 amps ; PV = 19/20--Does not make sense--is it 0.19 or 0.20?
The PF = 0.62, to me, would put this in the "concern" for running with MSW (at least on standby). (note PF ranges from 0.00 to 1.00)
The almost 3x increase in current is not a good sign. It is a little bit of power overall--but we do not know what may be consuming that power... So, it would not be wise to risk it without knowing where that extra current is being "used".
PF and changes in current for a unit on standby is not a clear yes/no answer. If you saw large differences running the unit on MSW vs TSW--then that would be a definite no.
But, in any case, probably not worth risking repair costs here.
It is also possible that the Kill-a-Watt is simply not accurate in this usage--another reason to not risk your AC unit either.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
"Yes, it is a Cooling only unit; and also yes, it is usually hot here in PR. In fact, where I live (west coast) temp never goes below 70f, and from june until november it is 80 - 92 almost always. Anyway, I as said, I will open the unit during the week to see if there is a crankcase heater inside."
LOL!! That is my kind of weather! Back in the 60s, the USN sent me to Bermuda for two years.
Being a Texan, I loved the tropical weather.
Later, I was abroad aircraft carriers and visited PR a few times, but never during really hot weather. Just cool to warm days..
Okay, open the breaker or unplug the disconnect, before you open the unit.
Use the remote to check if it's really off the grid (or inverter).
In the your service manual, I also saw the diagram of Heat & Cool version of your model.
The diagram looked very similar to mine, it has a heater.
If there is a heat strap (one chance in a million), in your cool-only unit,
it will likely look just like mine in the pic above.
While you are in there, clean out all the leaf bits etc from the drain pan, under the fan. Make sure the drain holes are clear.
If the fan blades feels greasy or looks dirty, clean it with some detergent.
Beware of the leading edges of the fan blades, they are very sharp.
You could also check the connectors, to make sure nothing is coming loose.
And, if any of the vibration dampers (if installed) have not fallen off the copper tubing.
Have fun,
Rich -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?You might be correct that it is saying dC or DC (not correct obviously). Ignore for now.
Grid = 0.12 amps ; PV = 0.62
MSW= 0.34 amps ; PV = 19/20--Does not make sense--is it 0.19 or 0.20?
It is also possible that the Kill-a-Watt is simply not accurate in this usage--another reason to not risk your AC unit either.
-Bill
Bill:
I cannot give you my opinion about your Spanish. Please, writte in Spanish your next reply so that my wife (the real Jessica), who teaches this Language in the same University, may tell me !!!
I don't like to ignore things. Please, What does the kill-a-watt reading "dC" means?
Now "19" and next time "20". In fact, the first reading, early in the morning, was 24.
XRinger:
I do like hot temps., as long as they don't go over 90. The REAL problem here is humidity. July to October sometimes it is hard even to breathe. But my house is on the top of a hill, and is is usually fresher than everywhere else.
I opened the unit. I did not see (or identify) any heater. Maybe there is one in there, but I am not capable of identifying it.
Here are some pics. I have more, but there is an upload limit. -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?Bill:
I cannot give you my opinion about your Spanish. Please, write in Spanish your next reply so that my wife (the real Jessica), who teaches this Language in the same University, may tell me !!!
I don't like to ignore things. Please, What does the kill-a-watt reading "dC" means?
Now "19" and next time "20". In fact, the first reading, early in the morning, was 24.
Got a D in Spanish 1 in high school first year, got an F in Spanish 1 the second year. Went to another high school where D was passing and never looked back (and probably would have been a very happy high school drop out if I needed more foreign language to pass). Frankly, English is not "my thing" either. As everyone can see here.
Regarding the Frequency reading. I do not know what is going on--but there are several possibilities.
One is that this use a capacitor to detect the changing voltage. Basically, a capacitor (plus diode or so) lets one or two pulses through for every sine wave:[FONT=Fixedsys] /^\ /^\ \./ [/FONT]
A MSW inverter actually looks like, upwards of 4 voltage changes for every cycle:[FONT=Fixedsys] _ _/ \_ _ \_/ [/FONT]
to a capacitor each of those flat spots (_) looks like a DC signal--so there may be 4 edges (AC transisitons) detected for every cycle--instead of the two expected for a sine wave.
It is also possible that they use voltage peak detection too... A sine wave has a voltage peak of around 170 volts... An MSW wave form has a peak around 150 VDC--They may just not see any peaks at all (again, an alternative to above--I don't know what they are using).
The Kill-a-Watt is designed (probably) for 40-70 Hz or so--And any number outside of a 1-100 Hz range will go to some default display (DC?).
Regarding your PF readings... Basically, PF should be:- PF = "Useful Current" (true RMS in phase) / "Total Current" (RMS current regardless of phase)
- Useful Current = Total Current * PF = 0.12 amps * 0.62 = 0.0744 amps of "useful current"
- UC = 0.34a * 0.19pf = 0.0646 amps of "useful current"
Note that these are pretty small values of current and it is possible that the Kill-a-Watt does not measure them all that accurately--So you will get some variation in readings... The PF = 20-24 is could be part of that issue--or it is possible that the PF at those small loads does vary on the Sanyo that amount too--Remember we are talking about small changes turned into a ratio which can make the changes look large--even though we are talking about very small numbers (relatively speaking).
-Bill
PS: Since I am not proud about my language skills--I have no issue with answering questions using Google Translate:
hola tiene soporte en español
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
The pictures confirm the documents. No heater.
The only wires I see going to the compressor are on top and look to be the same colors seen on my compressor.
Red Blue and white wires in the middle left side.
My heater wires (large white) are on the bottom of the compressor and have
plugs for easy testing and replacement. -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
I am curious why you thought there was a heater?"we go where power lines don't" Sierra Nevada mountain area
htps://offgridsolar1.com/
E-mail offgridsolar@sti.net -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?The pictures confirm the documents. No heater.
The only wires I see going to the compressor are on top and look to be the same colors seen on my compressor.
Red Blue and white wires in the middle left side.
My heater wires (large white) are on the bottom of the compressor and have
plugs for easy testing and replacement.
XRinger:
Just to be sure I understand:
"No heater", is, in this case, "good news"? It means I can unplug (open the breaker) the Sanyo, and then, when I come back home, plug it again and turn it on right away? No harm done?
Bill:
Thanks again:
I don't know how it is that you have so much patience to read and answer so many questions from us dumbies. I really appreciate.
Some more pics: (last one is my wife Jessica and our dog-son)
Hasta la vista. -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?Dave Sparks wrote: »I am curious why you thought there was a heater?
Dave:
Some months ago, another member of this forum (I think it was Lucman; but I may be wrong) said there was, indeed, a heater, and that the Sanyo must be plugged ("energized") for at least 24 hours before turning it on.
Since I belong to the pessimist class, I cannot rest until I am sure... -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
That main board wiring diagram in your picture above, is the same one
that I referred to in your service manual.
(Which includes the heat+cool version, that does have a heater)..
Since your Sanyo doesn't have a heater, leaving it completely off the grid
will not cause any problems.
Even if it did have a heater (hidden somewhere), the warm PR weather would make it unnecessary.
I'm not 80% sure about mine.. But, I think it might get turned off on hot days..
It appears to be controlled by a relay on the main board.
Which seems logical. Why apply heat, if the crankcase is already hot.?
The power sensors I've been using aren't that accurate at low power..
Edit: It's a hot day, I just checked the Sanyo and there is 0.0 kw showing on the TED.. (Note: The TED is not super accurate at low power).
Normally, it showing ~0.06 kw (60 watts). I decided to use the clamp-on Amp meter on the breaker and it's showing about 0.170 amps.
Or, 40 watts.. So, I think the heater is off, but the PCBs are using that 40w... Seems like a lot..?. -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
Ok,
I get it! Nice pictures! I wondered why you were so worried about this as half the world losses power on a regular basis. These units are designed for that. The big ones like Rich has I did not discuss with Sanyo. They would never be used Offgrid by any of the people I know of."we go where power lines don't" Sierra Nevada mountain area
htps://offgridsolar1.com/
E-mail offgridsolar@sti.net -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?Dave Sparks wrote: »Ok,
I get it! Nice pictures! I wondered why you were so worried about this as half the world losses power on a regular basis. These units are designed for that. The big ones like Rich has I did not discuss with Sanyo. They would never be used Offgrid by any of the people I know of.
Off-Grid is looking real good to me.. Remember, this thing doesn't need to run
full power for very long. Most of the running is done at 400-500 watts.
Makes it perfect for small PV on sunny days..
Anyways, my Sanyo could cool down during a power loss.. After a few hours,
it could get pretty cold. Once power is restored, the Sanyo would power up and shut down..
BUT, there is the remote control (on battery). Every 5 minutes, it's going
to send temperature data and operating commands to the Sanyo.
So, warm or not, the remote is going to tell the Sanyo to crank out some heat..
And, it will perform the task.. :cool:
I guess if you go to the movies on a cold day, hide the remote.?. -
Re: Running Sanyo mini-split on MSW inverter?
Rich,
I have been bugging my contact as Sanyo about doing something more elegant than what you do with your power cycling. This keeps the power down in the reasonable area for you. You know all this but for others if the program temperature could be manipulated (without the remote) in an algorithm, there could be some intelligence. Smart grid will force this BTW, I hope...
The reason I said that your unit is too big is because one could probably never hope to have enough PV to run that pump, offgrid in a reasonable time. The little Sanyo's can run at any speed off 2.5KW arrays, and longer hours if they are tracked.
Here is the link that started this.
http://www.sanyohvac.com/assets/documents/Reference-Solar2.pdf
8)"we go where power lines don't" Sierra Nevada mountain area
htps://offgridsolar1.com/
E-mail offgridsolar@sti.net
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