Help on panel sizing and number

Options
2

Comments

  • racsw
    racsw Solar Expert Posts: 26
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    Nobody is shouting here, everyone is simply contributing to a subject i know little about.

    As for the pump...
    They use a Honda gas pump to pump from the river into a 250 gal collection tank that sits 8 ft. off the ground (bottom).
    That feeds a cheap 1/2 hp well pump that pressurizes a 25 gal Well-X-Trol expansion tank.

    Obviously, bottled water for drinking.

    Robert
  • icarus
    icarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    That makes live really easy!

    If all you are trying to do is move water from the river into the house under pressure there are some very simple, very energy efficient solutions.

    The first would be to install a Shurflo 9300 12/24 vdc submersible in the river that can bring water into the house and pressurize the tank in one simple pump. It will pump into the WellXtrol tank to 50 psi while drawing ~ 10 amps at 12 volts. ( I have the same system, drawing from the lake. Doubling up the P-tank will allow you to only run the pump when the sun is out, but if you go that way, the draw of the pump for a few minutes a day is hardly significant.

    The next alternative is to use a Shurflo RV type pump, installed down near the river. This pump will push water into a 50 psi tank, but will only "pull" water ~ 8' so if the the house is much higher than the river you would have to mount it lower. This pump will use just about the same energy as the 9300. It is way cheaper, and easy to install, but you have to do some freeze protection.

    Depending on use, a couple of people will probably use under 100 gallons of water per day. Our Shurflo runs about twice a day for about 10 minutes a crack.

    http://legacy.shurflo.com/pages/new_industrial/industrial/agriculture/subcategories/9300.html

    Most of the other Shurflo pumps come with built in pressure switch, but one can use a conventional pressure tank and switch configuration. The submersible has the advantage of being able to be kept in the river 12 months and the only winterization required would be to drain the line. The other type need to be drained in the winter.

    My system is in the lake 12 months and will pump water through the ice through a fairly simple yet involved automatic drain system.

    All these pumps can be had to run on 12vdc or 24 vdc. My entire system runs on 12 vdc, but I have a voltage doubler on the water pump so that it runs on 24 volts so it runs faster and has less line loss.

    The 9300 is ~ $600, the other type are ~$100, so it isn't an expensive proposition to change your system.

    Good luck and keep in touch,

    Tony
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,439 admin
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    DOD = Depth of Discharge (Battery 100% full => 0% DOD; 0% charged => 100% DOD)

    The opposite of SOC = State of Charge (Battery 100% full => 100% SOC; 0% full => 0% State of Charge).

    25% SOC = 75% DOD

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • racsw
    racsw Solar Expert Posts: 26
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    Thanks, but no, they want to stay with their current holding tank of 250 gal and use the Honda gas pump. Distance to the river is too far, too much crap in the water, purifying the water and pumping up 10 ft.
    I sent an email to WW Grainger asking for a more efficient pump suggestion from the holding tank.

    But i don't want to get this discussion side-tracked any more than it is. I'll stay with the current wattage needs, and if we can improve on it later, the better off we are.

    Robert
  • icarus
    icarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    I know I said I would shut up,, but one more suggestion. Since you are committed to the honda to fill the bulk tank, then installing a 12 or 24 vdc shurflo from the gravity tank to the pressure tank would be a very simple solution. Since you are not lifting water thse little pumps will pump ~ 5gpm into a P-tank quite nicely.

    My neighbour has a similar system,, a 2000 gallon bulk tank that he fills once a week, and then has demand pumps at each cabin. They work flawlessly with little energy draw, certainly way less than a jet pump.

    Once again, shutting up now!

    T
  • racsw
    racsw Solar Expert Posts: 26
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    icarus,
    I agree with you.

    Cariboocoot:
    I made a mistake and put down 620 A/hrs when it was supposed to be 220 A/Hrs at 24 Volt.
    Sorry to cause you to go off on a tangent unnecessarily.

    What inverter would you suggest for a 24V system that has 220 A/Hr batteries as you originally suggested?

    Robert
  • icarus
    icarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    Since your largest single load, (the hair dryer) is ~ 1500 watts, an inverter in the 2 kw range would be about right. In a 24 vdc configuration your options get more limited. the Magnums get very big at 24 vdc:

    http://www.solar-electric.com/maenms4040wa.html

    http://www.solar-electric.com/sa15wa12vosi1.html

    http://www.solar-electric.com/exxp1224vo20.html

    If you go back to 12 vdc your options are better.

    http://www.solar-electric.com/maenms2020wa.html

    Your 620 ah of battery (24vdc) will yield 7 kwh at 50% DoD, 3.5 kwh at 25% Dod.

    2000 watts of panel will generate ~ 4 kwh/day on average, useable out the inverter.

    By your calcs you are going to use ~ 1.5 kwh/day. Change the pump system and you might drop that by ~ 500wh/day, making ~ 1kwh/day.



    Tony
  • racsw
    racsw Solar Expert Posts: 26
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    I'm going to need a couple of Tylenol after this..

    Here's my calcs, please check my math.
    Given we need 1509 WH/D and have to add 600 WH/D for the invetr standby power, that brings us to a total of 2109 WH/D that we need.

    For battery requirements:
    2109 WH/D / 24 V = 88 AH per day x 2 (only draw to 50% down on the battery) = 175 AH per day.
    That doesn't include any "no sunshine" days, which I'm not sure how to calculate that.
    If we use a 12V - 220 AH battery, then we need two batteries for 24 V.

    Panel number:
    Using 230 Watt panels x .75 actual output = 172 Watts per panel x 4 hrs per day charge = 688 WH/D / 24V = 28.6 Amp Hrs per day per panel.
    So if we have 220 AH of batteries then 220 / 28.6 = 8 panels that we need to charge the batteries daily.

    As I said, this doesn't figure in any "No sunshine" days.

    Did i do this right?

    Robert
  • icarus
    icarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    Keep it simple,,

    Take your one day calc,, and call it 2.1 kwh.

    For no sun days, multiply that number by the number of days you wish to go with no sun, I would suggest 2 or possibly three, making a total of 4.2-6.3kwh.

    To draw a 24 volt battery no more than 50%, you would need a battery in the 350-525 ah range (24 vdc).

    To re-charge that (5-13% of AH capacity) you would need panel capacity of say 25 amps, or ~ 600 watts, plus 25% loss or ~ 750 watts of PV. That same 750 watts of PV should deliver ~ 1.5 kwh/day. Now you would have little chance of ever getting "caught up" if you indeed do consume 1.5 kw/day with this system and you let your batteries go to 50%, so a system that would give you 2 days with no sun, and then have enough capacity to recharge that loss, AND power today's loads you would need to double that to ~ 1.5 kw of Panel. Personally, I don't like to draw my batteries down more than ~ 15% per day or ~ 30% before recharging them to 100% for longer battery life.

    The answers to most of your questions are not hard and fast, and indeed predicated on how often/how much you are willing to run the genny, how far down you are willing to draw your batteries, and how quickly you are wanting to restore them to 100% charge.
    A compromise on one set of parameters requires a change on the other(s).

    One thing that is unclear to me, why are you calculating a 600 wh daily load just to standby an inverter? Having an inverter run at that (in) efficiency doesn't seem to make sense,,, that is over 50% of your total loads. What am I missing?

    Tony
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    I think the most sensible thing is to change out that 1/2 HP pump (which is only being used to pressurize the system) for a smaller one like the Shurflo Tony suggested. Even the 120 VAC model will use far less power and thus get rid of the biggest problem in the solar power system: that one big load.

    That would enable you to go with the Magnum 2812 or even the 2012. The battery sizing calculations are the same as always:

    Total Watt hours per day / nominal system Voltage = Amp hours. Multiply that last Amp hours by 2 for one day, 4 for two days, 6 for three days. That's your basic battery bank size. Find the closest match to that in AGM's (if you prefer) "rounding up": as in a need for 200 Amp hours means you choose a 210 Amp hour battery if that's the nearest choice. Then calculate the panel requirements based on a "target" charge rate of 10% of the bank size: charging Amps * charging Voltage / 0.77 = array size. Again "round up" to the nearest panel configuration; better to have more than less PV.

    If you can get that far with it, the rest is easy. Sizing fuses, determining wire runs .. Although that charge controller is a bit problematic. I still can't find any clear specs on it. All it says it tht it will take a nominal 24 Volt panel. Personally, I wouldn't pick it for that reason. Other MPPT controllers are more flexible for their input Voltage, which allows more variety in wiring the array so you can have less Voltage drop between array and controller.

    Sorry I missed out a lot of this. My ISP went erratic in the wind storm and only now has stabilized. Funny 'cause the power didn't even flicker. :confused:
  • mike95490
    mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    You cannot run a 1/2 hp well pump off a 12V inverter.

    My 1/2 hp pump draws a solid 1,000 watts running, and I would expect starting surge to be 3-10 x that.

    a 5000W surge for 5 seconds, would be 416 A from the batteries, and the voltage droop from that, would likely shut the inverter off after 3 seconds. Inverter and pump resets and run through the loop again.

    Better idea would be haul in a couple more 40 gallon pressure tanks, to get charged by the pump, and cut it's cycle time down to 2x a day. Maybe put a tank in the attic for a little bit of gravity feed for hand washing and such, and let it fill from the pump.
    You might get pump time down to 1x a day, with clever management, and you could run the microwave and battery charger after the pump shuts off, and just plan on a 15-30 minute runtime on the genset daily.
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • racsw
    racsw Solar Expert Posts: 26
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    icarus,
    First, my sincere thanks to you and caraboocoot primarily for having the perseverance to stick it out with me. The solar distributor we started with has not proven to be very knowledgeable, and had us worried, which is why I am going through all this. He doesn't know how to do the calcs himself, he is using some kind of a manufacturers cheat sheet that's supposed to tell all. But we have to stay with him because of his location and pricing. He's a good fellow, so I'm trying to work with him, ask questions and keep him honest, so to speak. I did tell him that I am getting corroborative information from unbiased sources so I can double-check his information, and he has no problem with that.

    Anyhow, back to business. The 600 watts was raised by caraboocoot when I went to the Magnum 4024 Inverter. The spec sheet says it has a 25 watt consumption of standby (no load) wattage per hour. So over 24 hours, that's another 600 watts to add to our new total of 1510 Watt Hours per day, for a total of 2.2 Kw. Actually, the Magnum 2812 is slightly higher at 30 watts standby.

    Back again, using caraboocoot's calcs:
    2200 WH/D / 24V = 92 A/Hrs
    For a two day "no sun", 92 AHs x 4 = 368 A/Hrs

    So far, so good I think.
    Using Marathon NAMT060200HM0FA - 6 V - 200A/Hr AGM requires 8 batteries for 400 A/Hr. (Close as I can get to 370 A/Hr.)

    Here's the Magnum specs:
    http://www.magnumenergy.com/Literature/Data%20Sheets/Inverters/MS%20Series%20Data%20Sheet%20%2864-0200%20Rev%20F%29.pdf
    The tech guy said to use the 4024 PAE instead of the 4024. Same price, more options available.

    OK, so we're back to a 400 A/Hr battery bank based on your calcs I believe incorporating 2 days of no sunshine drawing 2200 watts daily. Please confirm this is correct?

    Panels...here's where I bog down. I can't seem to get a complete formula or to get both of you to agree on how you calculate it.
    The marathon tech said to use a .75 factor for each panel, because none put out exactly what they say. So a REC 230 Watt panel is actually 172 Watts output. Both you guys are confusing me on calculating panels.

    If my math is correct on battery bank size, would you please explain the sequence of calculations you use to get the number of panels? We'll be using 230 Watt panels, and have a 4 hr per day charging time. We're still on a 24V system. The Marathon tech told me when calculating panels, use a .75 factor because no panel puts out what they say it does. I assume that's true, I don't know. If you want me to only figure on drawing down to 15% - 30% to make the batteries last longer, no problem, but include that somewhere in the formula.

    I can do this if you show me how. I need a complete formula that you both agree on.

    Robert
  • icarus
    icarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    Robert, No worries, we are all here to help and once in a while we come up with a good idea!

    How about this as an idea. Let's start from scratch, with no investment in any hardware or wiring scheme? Let's start with the loading doing it two ways,, once with using the existing pump configuration and once considering a different pumping system.

    That way we can start with a clean slate, and not have to make compromises due to hardware assumptions. (For example, 600 wh of inverter standby that consumes more than 50% of all other loads is something we should be able to work around).

    Going back to your post #30,

    Eco Lights (3) 16W x3 = 48W 35 1680
    Water Pump 1104 W ** 1 1104
    TV 200 W 14 2800
    Stereo 50 14 700
    Hand mixer 300 1 300
    Vacuum 1440 1 1440
    Hair Dryer 1500 1 1500
    Drill Charger 80 1 80
    Misc Chargers*** 120 8 960

    Let's look at this line by line.

    Lights 16*3=48watts 8 hours/day=384 wh/day 2600/week (I think your lighting is too small.
    TV 200*14=2800 (Consider a new flat screen that only draws less than 50 watts)
    Stereo 50*14=700
    Mixer 300*1=300
    Vacuum 1440*1=1440
    Hair dryer 1500*1= 1500
    Drill 80*1= 80
    Misc chargers 120*8= 960
    Total weekly load without pump 10,380 wh, 10.4 kwh
    Average daily load 1,485 wh,or lets say 1.5 kwh/day

    Now if you install a smaller 12 or 24 vdc pump that draws say 200 watts for 1 hour a day, that would add another 200 wh/day, so lets say 1.7 kwh average daily load.

    Now, lets look at your largest load (again, assuming you change the pump system) The hair dryer or vacuum. In this case you would then need, to drive these items an inverter in the 2 kw range. The standby load draw of a 2 kw Magnum is ~ 25 watts. The Xantrex 1800 inverter will power those loads with only a 1.5 watt standby load.

    So the obvious choice would be the Xantrex on first look.

    So now lets look at the battery configuration. To deliver ~ 1.7 kwh day would be ~ 150 ah/day @ 12 vdc. A 900 ah battery would be drawn ~ 16% delivering 150 ah (12 vdc) Halve the battery bank and your daily draw would be ~ 32%,, two days, 62%.

    So to charge a 900 ah battery bank, you would need a minimum 5% current or ~ 45 amps of panel. Ideally you would double that for a 10% charge rate. To get 45 amps into 12 vdc you would need ~ 650 watts (12v*45 amps + 20%) to start, 1300 watts would deliver ~90 amps.

    So keeping it at 12 vdc keeps the hardware costs down. The panel requirements would be the same if you went with 24 vdc. Most people would prefer 24 vdc, I personally like 12 because of the available 12 volt hardware. (Samelex makes a 24 vdc inverter but I don't know what the idle draw is.)

    I really think you have to get rid of the 1/2 hp if you are going to get this down to a manageable size and budget. As several people have mentioned running a 1/2 hp pump off a small inverter is really a non starter. The price of a replacement is more than offset by the reduction in system cost. While I am on that subject, there are several other conservation measures to consider that will pay for themselves with smaller system costs. For example, buying a new TV for ~$200 will reduce energy consumption by over 75%, reducing the 400 wh/day to under 100 wh. The same can be said of the stereo. Losing 200 wh/day from the loads, reduces the system size by ~10%. (Both batteries and PV.)

    One other comment I would make, which comes as advice that is not asked for, I would buy a Honda EU 2000 generator and off load the two big draw items, (the hair dryer and vacuum) to the generator. That way, you could down size the inverter to a Suresine 300 to cover all the other loads. Then by time shifting the small charging loads to times of good sun, you could down size the system further. The Honda generator run an hour a week for other things will burn ~ 1/4 of gas every two hours, so it would burn a gallon a month! You are going to need a significant charger for times of no sun anyway so a genny is going to be in the equation anyway.

    As a side note, we live in a very small cabin in far northern Ontario. We have 400 watts of panel, 450 ah of battery. Daily we use ~ 5-600 wh of power for everything. We don't have a TV, but we have two lap tops, sat modem, wireless internet router etc. We almost never have to run a generator to charge. We fire it up for the vacuum and for power tools.

    So in your case, at ~1.5 kwh/day you could simply double our system and be in fine shape. I guess that is all for now. What really needs to be addressed is the pump issue, as it is the driver of much of the problem getting this system to work. As I said before, (and I said I was going to shut up!) if it were me, I would install a shurflo 9300 in the lake on pex tubing, with a drain at the lake shore, plumbed directly into the P-tank and be done with it. It would get rid of the standing bulk tank, get rid of the need to run the honda pump and would deliver all the water you would ever need for a family of two, drawing ~ 50 wh/day, with no load on the inverter, no up sizing of the inverter, no complicated plumbing etc.

    I know that you are sort of stuck on the cost of a replacement pump, but in fact it will save way more than it costs.

    Tony
  • racsw
    racsw Solar Expert Posts: 26
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    Boy, that sounds like a terrific idea to me :D

    I am trying to stay focused here so on top of all the other expenses, i don't have to tell them to buy another pump. The distributor started at around $6K, but with all the calcs, and having an idea we'll end up with 6 panels at $800 a pop, we're now over $12,000. They'll have a seizure.
    But it is what it is, and that's what they asked my help for. They trust me to get straight answers and to spend their money wisely, so I'm trying. I'm spending four hours a day on this now, calling mfg's, writing emails, doing calcs, etc. I have no argument on a new pump, neither do they, but i get absolutely no help from the people I've asked on what pump they would use, and I've called Grainger and a Motor house. They don't even know how to figure out if it will save me any wattage. Their comment was that it takes a certain amount of energy to pressurize water to 60 psi to keep a 25 gal Well-X-Trol filled. They said that you can do it quickly, less time but more amps, or slowly, less amps but more time, but it always works out to be the same amount of energy. The logic seems sound.
    But one of the problems here is we keep getting sidetracked on different things, different voltages, better inverters, different calcs, more suggestions, and I get a headache.

    So the 1509 Watt Hours per day includes their current pump, wasteful as it might be, at 9.2 FLA that runs for about 2 minutes. I can't tell you how long it runs a day. Depends on showers, dishes, washing hands. They told me to figure 1 hour per week.

    So I am very pleased to be able to start from scratch using the watt hours we have now, and using that pump. After we have everything figured out, we'll explore a more efficient pump. I will also be looking around myself at marine pumps and such.

    Thank you again for this,
    Robert
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number
    racsw wrote: »
    Their comment was that it takes a certain amount of energy to pressurize water to 60 psi to keep a 25 gal Well-X-Trol filled. They said that you can do it quickly, less time but more amps, or slowly, less amps but more time, but it always works out to be the same amount of energy. The logic seems sound.

    In case you haven't guessed, this isn't exactly right. It takes the same amount of energy to move the same volume of water the same distance and bring it to the same pressure regardless of which pump you use. But the two different pumps use two different amounts of energy. Time for a :confused: moment!

    It's the start-up problem. That big pump motor needs a bigger boost to get going than the little motor on the little pump. In fact, one key point to managing well systems of any kind is to put in the biggest pressure tank you possibly can and keep pump cycle times to a minimum.

    There are even off-grid pumps that run directly from solar, varying output with available light. No "instant" water, but they do the job and on a properly designed system you can't tell the difference.

    This is why Tony & I both think it would behoove you to re-examine the pump situation. Money spent on making that more efficient could well be less $ than the extra cost to the solar power to run the existing pump.

    Remember: Tony uses the little pumps and has a very, very small solar power system. I use a big pump and have a much bigger system. I think he uses a SureSine 300 Watt inverter for everything. I use an Outback VFX3524. That's a $300 inverter vs. a $2,000 inverter - all for the sake of starting a large-frame AC induction motor. See what I mean? If I didn't have certain inescapable requirements I could get by with a much smaller unit myself, and would do so.
  • icarus
    icarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    Forget Grainger for advice, off gird power consumption is beyond the scope of most counter people!


    120vac pump, draw .94 amps (120 vac)(~115 watts) at 40 psi, 3 gpm, would run on the suresine 300 inverter or the Xantrex 1000.

    http://www.solar-electric.com/2088-594-154.html


    Or this 12 volt version:, draws ~115 watts at 2 gpm into 40 psi.

    http://www.solar-electric.com/2088-514-145.html

    At ~$150 these pumps are work horses, easily servicable.

    Or my favorite solution, http://www.solar-electric.com/sh93susowapu.html

    I know of one in a deep well that has been working for a family of 4 for better than ten years.

    T
  • Blackcherry04
    Blackcherry04 Solar Expert Posts: 2,490 ✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    I think you guys are on the right track. I ran a 3/4 hp centrifugal pump on my house boat for 10 years, keep up a large battery bank and inverter to run it. It pressurized a Toilet system for two jet toilets. It was a $1100.00 pump and over a weekend it would suck a 1000 amp hr bank down.

    One day I trying to find a replacement as the pump was leaking. I started looking at the pumping curves. A centrifugal pump does great with no pressure, but as soon as the pressure rises + 40 psi , they drop off to almost nothing. I was trying to pressurize a bladder tank , but there was almost no flow going in the tank at 60 psi.

    I found these pumps. They will go to 100 psi and still have 1.5gpm flow. At 5 + Gpm they are more that adequate for a house.

    They are pulse modulated and run at a variable speed. The 12 v dc model is 10 amp. They are available in 120 v also.

    http://www.aquatec.com/rvpump.htm

    These are the ones I have.

    http://www.rvupgradestore.com/Aquajet-RV-Variable-Speed-Water-Pump-p/aquajetrv.htm
  • icarus
    icarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    The aqua jets are very similar in design and function to the shurflos. What I like about the shurflos is that they and their parts are available nearly everywhere.

    T
  • Blackcherry04
    Blackcherry04 Solar Expert Posts: 2,490 ✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number
    icarus wrote: »
    The aqua jets are very similar in design and function to the shurflos. What I like about the shurflos is that they and their parts are available nearly everywhere.

    T
    That is true, but I never found a Sureflo with 5 diaphragm chamber and 5.5 gpm of flow in this type pump, maybe I didn't look hard enough.
  • icarus
    icarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    Looks like a nice pump. I like the soft start feature. One issue with diaphragm pumps is the vibration. An easy solution is to install a loop on the inlet and out let. Cuts the noise by ~ 90%

    T.
  • Blackcherry04
    Blackcherry04 Solar Expert Posts: 2,490 ✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number
    icarus wrote: »
    Looks like a nice pump. I like the soft start feature. One issue with diaphragm pumps is the vibration. An easy solution is to install a loop on the inlet and out let. Cuts the noise by ~ 90%

    T.
    That is a nice tip to share, must come from long time experience. The new pumps with the variable speeds use a transducer rather than a analog switch create more vibration than the older ones unless you add the loop of flexible line.

    It's really nice the way you'all share knowledge on this forum.
  • racsw
    racsw Solar Expert Posts: 26
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    No disrespect intended here, but i thought we agreed on taking a two-fold approach to this problem.
    First, you would tell me what the formula is to arrive at a particular answer. You're making computations here again, you're not telling me how you got the answer.

    Second, by your words, we would configure System #1 using the current wattage and pump system.

    Third, by your words, we would configure System #2 figuring in a new pump.

    You're changing things as you go along, which I don't want to do. (for now). While your suggestions are valid and important for reducing the wattage by changing various components, that is valuable information for FUTURE use, not now. Too much money on top of what this will cost.

    So please, let's stay with what we agreed on. The lights are reasonable from their personal experience of the last 5 years at night. The system should not be so closely configured that the addition of an extra bulb or two for a couple of hours a week should not require any changes.

    So lets start here:

    System #1 - 10,564 Watt Hours per week including the current pump, works out to 1509 Watt hours per day.

    I spent many years writing diagnostic tech manuals for electrical people (among other responsibilities), so lets organize our calculations. (Tell me if any of this is out of order)

    1. The first requirement is to establish the load per day. We have done this. It's 1509 WH/D (Watt Hours per Day) According to cariboocoot, and Marathon, we need to add the standby watts of an inverter to our daily needs. (600 watts = 2200 WH/D total)

    2. Second requirement is find out how many charge hours the location has: In this case, 4 hrs per day.

    3. Next, do we want any "no sun" days figured in? Yes we do. We want two days of "no sun" figured in.

    4. With the 2200 WH/D figure, the next chore is to figure how much battery we need. This is the most complex computations. The reason is that we have to factor in the "no sun" days and the fact that we want to only discharge the batteries to 20% to maintain battery life. I don't see those calculations in your response. This is the most important part of this process, because everything else depends on what we get here. Agree?

    5. Next, we choose whether we need 12 volt or a 24 V system. This becomes more apparent once the battery bank size is arrived at. Agree?

    6. Next, we choose the amount of panels, and their size in watts of output, corrected for actual output.

    7. Now we choose an inverter. I guess this or #6 could be interchanged, depending.

    8. Lastly, we choose a charge controller to manage the watt output of the panels and provide the required charge so that at a 20% draw-down, we can recharge the batteries in the 4 hr sun period we have to 100%. Agree?

    Let's not argue about which comes first or third, etc. You are the expert, so change them as needed, and then lets do the math.

    Now after we have this sequence of calculations documented and calculated, THEN we'll introduce a more efficient pump and you'll show me how it will save us wattage. I'm not going to resize the system now for this change. After the solar system is installed and functioning, then we'll see about the pump. if we end up saving watts, great! Then we have some expansion built into the system if we need to run a couple more light bulbs ;)


    OK, I'm ready to start with the batteries, the most involved of the computations. Would you please show me how to figure a battery bank that will accommodate a 2200 WH/D load, will allow for 2 "no sun" days, and a draw-down limit of 20%?

    Thanks,
    Robert
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    Let's see if we can address your questions a bit more directly. :D
    racsw wrote: »
    No disrespect intended here, but i thought we agreed on taking a two-fold approach to this problem.
    First, you would tell me what the formula is to arrive at a particular answer. You're making computations here again, you're not telling me how you got the answer.

    It's all too easy to get "lost in the sauce" around here, especially with numerous people responding to the same questions with answers from different perspectives. And when you're answering dozens of different people per day it's easy to get confused in the answers. I know I do. :blush:
    You're changing things as you go along, which I don't want to do. (for now). While your suggestions are valid and important for reducing the wattage by changing various components, that is valuable information for FUTURE use, not now. Too much money on top of what this will cost.
    I think you may have missed a point here. What we're saying is that changing the pump unit might actually be cheaper than building the solar power system up to a level that will handle the old pump. We always look for the cheapest solutions on this forum because we're all a bunch of cheapskates. :p
    So lets start here:

    System #1 - 10,564 Watt Hours per week including the current pump, works out to 1509 Watt hours per day.

    I spent many years writing diagnostic tech manuals for electrical people (among other responsibilities), so lets organize our calculations. (Tell me if any of this is out of order)

    1. The first requirement is to establish the load per day. We have done this. It's 1509 WH/D (Watt Hours per Day) According to cariboocoot, and Marathon, we need to add the standby watts of an inverter to our daily needs. (600 watts = 2200 WH/D total)
    Yes. No two ways about it. If you're panning on running the big inverter it uses 25 Watts doing nothing. Times 24 hours is 600 Watt hours; a significant amount of power that must be included. So let's go with 2.2 kW hours per day as per your spec.
    2. Second requirement is find out how many charge hours the location has: In this case, 4 hrs per day.
    A reasonable assumption for Summer.
    3. Next, do we want any "no sun" days figured in? Yes we do. We want two days of "no sun" figured in.

    Increases the Amp hour capacity need by 'XDays'.
    4. With the 2200 WH/D figure, the next chore is to figure how much battery we need. This is the most complex computations. The reason is that we have to factor in the "no sun" days and the fact that we want to only discharge the batteries to 20% to maintain battery life. I don't see those calculations in your response. This is the most important part of this process, because everything else depends on what we get here. Agree?
    Yes. Vital. But you can take your Depth of Discharge to 25% reasonably. Knowing that you have a maximum of 50% available, you'd have two days worth of power there. You calculate it like this:

    Watt hours per day / nominal system Voltage / inverter efficiency (usually 90%) = Amp hours.
    2200 / 12 VDC = 184 / 0.90 = 204
    2200 / 24 VDC = 92 / 0.90 = 102
    That's how much you'd use. Meaning one day's worth at 25% DOD is 4X 204 or 102: 816 Amp hours total on a 12 VDC system, 408 Amp hours total on a 24 VDC system. Note this will be roughly the same batteries, just wired differently.
    5. Next, we choose whether we need 12 volt or a 24 V system. This becomes more apparent once the battery bank size is arrived at. Agree?
    No. The determining factor for choosing one system Voltage over another is the maximum expected draw. Supplying 1200 Watts on a 12 VDC system at one time requires 100 Amps (not Amp hours). On a 24 VDC system it requires only 50 Amps. The more Watts needed at any given time (as opposed to Watt hours) sets the standard for system Voltage as you do not want very high DC current; it is problematic. An occasional peak to 2.4 kW may be okay on a 12 VDC system, but consistent high current is not desirable. In any case the wiring and fuse must be size to take the maximum expected, which is measured at the lowest point in system Voltage: a "12 Volt" system runs from 10.5 VDC to 14.4 VDC.
    6. Next, we choose the amount of panels, and their size in watts of output, corrected for actual output.
    Yes: sized to recharge the battery bank at the desired target peak current of 10% total Amp hour capacity. For the above examples:
    81.6 Amps (not very practical for any system) * 14.2 VDC (charging) = 1158 Watts @ 77% efficiency; 1505 Watts total.
    40.8 Amps * 28.4 VDC = 1158 Watts @ 77% efficiency; 1505 Watts total.
    Note both systems have the same amount of net power and thus require the same amount of panel for recharging. It is the configuration that changes. In this case lower the DC charge current enables the use of one charge controller; the biggest controller you can get can only handle 80 Amps.

    7. Now we choose an inverter. I guess this or #6 could be interchanged, depending.
    Inverter sizing (including Watts and system Voltage) is dependent on how many Watts you need to deliver at once.
    8. Lastly, we choose a charge controller to manage the watt output of the panels and provide the required charge so that at a 20% draw-down, we can recharge the batteries in the 4 hr sun period we have to 100%. Agree?
    See answer to #6. The charge controller must be able to handle the current @ charge Voltage. Usually if you hit that figure right the "replacing Amp hours" falls in to line. Vis:

    1505 Watts of panel @ 77% = 1158 Watts * 4 hours (equivalent good sun) = 4632 Watt hours per day. Since the expected daily use is 2200 Watt hours * 2 Days = 4400, so the panels should be able to replace completely the full amount used.

    Now let's disregard the fact that some of us can squeeze more power out of a system because we do this trick of load shifting. I don't think the end users in this case will be up to that. It basically makes use of the fact that panels will produce more power than is needed at the final stage of recharging batteries. Otherwise this "potential harvest" goes wasted. It is the bane of off-grid users.

    So how we doin' on the answer now, eh? :D
  • racsw
    racsw Solar Expert Posts: 26
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    We''re hot now, smokin'...

    I just found something out from Magnum. You can program in a standby period into the 4024 PAE that only draws 6 watts per hour. So instead of 2200 watts, we're down to 1509 + 144 = 1653.
    Cool...

    The rest of your reply I have to have some time to digest. I've already been at this 2-1/2 hrs now and need a break.

    I agree on all the contributors. It adds confusion, but they are just trying to help. It's hard to keep the focus.
    Someone or two gave me some pump choices which I haven't had time to look at yet, but i will after some coffee. But I'm staying with 1653 for now.

    Sorry to be contributing to your carpel tunnel, but very grateful that you are taking the time,

    Robert
  • racsw
    racsw Solar Expert Posts: 26
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    Well, I just got off the phone with my two friends who are looking to solar.
    I also got two quotes from two solar distributors, and unbeknown to me, they had received an earlier quote late last year from a third. All quotes for this system were very close, all $13K-$14K properly configured..Well, when i discussed this and sent them one of the quotes, they had a "Holy Sh*t" moment as i thought they might.

    But all this work was necessary to show them what it would cost to do what they initially wanted. They thought somebody was screwing them.

    So now that big numbers are flashing before their eyes, and their pulse rate has gone up 40 points, it's time for a reevaluation of whats "necessary".

    So the first thing was that they are willing to do without the pump on the solar. You guys all get your wish ;) They will operate the pump on the generator, and if they have to, get a bigger expansion tank.

    So now that my coffee waters heating, i will take a break and come back to rerun some numbers without that pump that everyone has rightfully criticized.

    Robert
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,439 admin
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    Another thing to remember is that you don't plan on using 100% of your estimated daily power production (not at least without having your genset ready to fire up)... On a daily basis, perhaps 1/2-2/3rds would be the appropriate point at which they would not need to fire up the genest.

    Or, if they have heavy weekly loads, for example, irrigation once or twice a week during the summer, washer/drier (propane). Weekend guests, a couple weeks of AC during a hot summer, etc...

    I know I tend to be conservative in when running the numbers--but you do have to be careful that you don't double count or miss an efficiency loss (counting battery cycle losses, forgetting inverter losses, etc.).

    Also, how a system is operated will affect efficiency. Marc (Cariboocoot) talked about running optional loads during the day (pumping, washer, vacuuming and such) and try to minimize loads at night (less battery losses, less losses if running the AC loads directly from the genset during bad weather, etc.).

    As time goes on, some components do lose some of their efficiency (dirty solar panels, perhaps after 20 years, 10-20% losses, flooded cell batteries might start at 90% efficient but drop to 80% towards the end of their life)--And how you run stuff matters too... Running a flooded cell bank between 50% to 80% charge is much more efficient than running the batteries between 90-100% charge.

    There is also a reason to look at 24 or 48 volt battery banks--Solar charge controllers are rated based on output current (30/45/60/80amp etc.)... So for the same 60 amp controller, the optimum maximum amount of solar array for the different bank voltages would be:
    • 60 amps * 14.5 volt charging * 1/0.77 derating = 1,130 watts
    • 60 amps * 29.0 volt charging * 1/0.77 derating = 2,260 watts
    • 60 amps * 58.0 volt charging * 1/0.77 derating = 4,520 watts
    So with a 48 volt battery bank, one MPPT solar charge controller can handle 4x the wattage of solar panels that the same controller can manage at 12 volts.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • icarus
    icarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    First, my apologies if I have made the situation more confusing in the quest of making it less. Second, I don't profess to be an expert on much of anything, especially when it comes to the technical details of electronics. That said, what I am reasonably good at is providing real world solutions to what might be vexing problems, sometimes with elegance often without.

    The crux of the entire issue is the pump, both it's load demand in watt/hours but more importantly in it's peak demand on both batteries and inverters. Solve the water pumping issue, and all the others become easier both to calculate and to build.

    As has been said before,, define the loads, and you can in a general way define the system components. Eliminating the pump (or modifying it) changes every other equation. The bottom line, off grid solar is an expensive way to generate power. If one chooses to go that way, that is the first thing that needs to be understood.

    In your initial postings, you mentioned that your friends were running a generator ~ 6 hours a day, consuming lots of fuel. Far and away the cheapest alternative is to use a generator that is sized for the loads. For general lighting only, (all your loads except the hair dryer and pump if memory serves) a Honda Eu 1000 will run 6 hours a day a 25% load and burn ~1/4 of fuel,,~$1.25 at todays per litre price in Northern ON. for a purchase price of ~ $800. Use a Eu 2000 and one could run all the loads, and burn perhaps 1/2 again more fuel. As with all generators, they run more efficiently when closer to full loads than not. The beauty of the EU series is that they will dial down the engine speed (and the fuel use) as the load decreases. I suspect that your friends are using a fairly large full speed generator for all their loads, burning way more than would otherwise be needed. (Making much more noise as well).

    A simple alternative would be get a battery bank to run the lighting, TV, Stereo etc at night, (to keep run time down, and noise down) Then during the day, run the genny for other loads (including the pump) while at the same time running a proper charger to recharge the previous nights draw. ( Or you could do the opposite, run the genny at night charging the battery, reducing the load, and use the battery during the day. You could then buy a small solar panel set up to keep the batteries topped up over the winter.

    So, there is another alternative. I stand by my suggestion in my most previous post(s) about the system I would build if it were my place. Eliminating the big loads, and the loading and system requirements would pretty much mimic my own,, 400 watts of Panel, 450 ah of battteries, 300 watt inverter, 20 (or 40) amp charger, and a Honda Eu 1000 (or two for peak loads) and a Shurflo 9300.

    Don't feel like you are being troublesome. Everyone here is willing to help, and if sometimes the advice seems contrary, it is usually because, as I said earlier, there is more than one way to solve the problem,, there is no one "right" answer.

    Good luck and keep in touch,

    Tony
  • racsw
    racsw Solar Expert Posts: 26
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    Marc, make sure you see my last two posts.

    Robert
  • racsw
    racsw Solar Expert Posts: 26
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    Marc,

    I had a lot to do, sorry this took so long.

    Lets stay with just the battery issue for a bit.
    Also, we no longer have the motor in the formula, so we're dealing with 1500 WH/D almost to the watt. And, we're going to use only one day of no sunshine, not two. What we gave up was 158 watts daily and the 27 A surge amps for the motor.
    Increases the Amp hour capacity need by 'XDays'.

    Do you mean Amp Hours Consumed per day or the total amp hours after all the calcs below?

    Watt hours per day / nominal system Voltage / inverter efficiency (usually 90%) = Amp hours.

    Lets construct the formula and see if it works, it's in two steps for clarity:

    WH/D = Watt Hours per day.
    Vs = Nominal system voltage
    Ie = Inverter Efficiency
    DOD = Battery discharge limit
    DNS = Days of no sunshine

    1. WH/d / Vs /Ie = Amp Hours Consumed per day (AHC)

    1500 / 24 /.9 = 69.4 (round up to 65)
    This figure represents a battery draw down limit of 100% and does not contain any buffer of days without sun, which is impractical. So...

    2. Now we factor in the limit of battery draw down we need to maintain good battery life (15% - 30% normally) and factor in the amount of days we need as a buffer of "no sun". The formula is:

    ((100/DOD) x AHC) x DNS =Total amount of battery capacity in Amp Hours.

    ((100/25) x 65) x 1 = 260 Total amount of battery capacity in Amp Hours.

    Here's where i have a slight problem with the formula. Actually "DNS" should be represented as (DNS + 1), because if you want one (1) day without sunshine factored using a multiplier of 1 doesn't compute. Correct?


    Robert
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Help on panel sizing and number

    RE: stand-by modes on inverters. This is a good thing, but sometimes the loads don't trigger the inverter to "on". There's usually a minimum threshold, like 8 Watts, and occasionally something like a CFL (even at 13 Watts) won't "wake up" the inverter. Most of the time it works.

    If your requirements are now only 1500 Watt hours per day ...

    Watt hours divided by nominal system Voltage gives Amp hours. Factor in the efficiency of the inverter and you get the Amp hours needed to supply the Watt hours per day. Double that to keep battery Depth Of Discharge (DOD) below 50%. Quadruple it if the desired DOD is 25%. Vis:

    1500 Whrs / 24 V = 62.5 / 0.90 Ie = 69.4 * 2 = 138.8 Amp hours total capacity @ 50% DOD.

    If you want two days capacity @ 50% DOD you double it: 277.6 Amp hours.