Guys, I just had a thought that might cure my problem but it seems like it might be too easy so please tell me what would be wrong.
As soon as the red charge indicator light goes out like when I pull under the RV cover or night comes the interference stops. What bad will happen if I put a switch on the + lead coming from the panels and just shut them off from the controller when we are traveling? On the road traveling is about the only time we listen to the radio so that would make DW happy.
I don't know where you got those numbers but they sure don't apply to anything I am familiar with and I have been a mechanic for 40+ years. Automotive and truck charging systems typically are set a14.4 to 14.6v with some newer GM systems set at 15v.
Also not true and not relevant to the topic.
While you travel, do you need to charge, to top off the batteries, or do you have a booster to have the 13.8V car alternator top off the deep cycles to the 14.8V they need ?
Automotive and truck charging systems typically are set a14.4 to 14.6v with some newer GM systems set at 15v.
The "equalization voltage" thing is a non-issue and it is generally accepted that it is a unproven and unneeded procedure.
The key to long battery life in a RV is a good three stage smart converter that will drop to around 13.2v when things are charged, that being below the gassing voltage of a wet cell, thus no water use.
The converters I am using, I have two, are WFCO 55a from bestconverters.com. They have three stages, 13.6 - 14.4, and 13.2. I have one of the converters powered directly from the gen set so it is only used when boondocking.