benthere wrote: »
I bet you could use a switch or two, so that throwing the switch moves the connection to ground rather than the equipment. The question then would be, would it introduce notable interference with normal operation of the equipment, and would the contacts be far apart enough to do you any good in case of a strike. But it would be easier to throw a switch or few than disconnect several coax cables. How about another AB switch on which one side goes to ground?
icarus wrote: »
Hows this sound as an idea. Clamp a braided copper or aluminum braided lighting wire on the antenna mast and the stovepipe. Send this down the side of the building, and into the lake. Clamp the dead end of this to a copper ground rod, and bury it in under the rocks in the deepest water I can. Take the neutral (panel) ground #4 and carry it into the lake on it's own ground wire separated by some feet from the major braided ground.
this sounds ok, but the neutral is not a separate ground and ties to ground prior to going to the lake. you need to pick 1 point of connection as you don't want neutral to tie to ground in multiple points.
When I add the steel roofing, bond this wire to the steel, and add a #4 copper on all four corners of the building on to the earth and then into the lake.
i believe you are still missing the visualization of what i was trying to convey to you. are you familiar with those lightning rods some buildings have on top of them? picture 2 of them, one on the left side of your house roof and one on the right side of your house roof. the wire is to come down the front corners of your house to the ground. normally the ends would meet a ground rod at the soil and tie together underground, but instead i proposed these to go to the lake and both tie to a ground rod there. what you will need to do is make another wire come off of each lightning rod and down to the left rear and right rear corners of your house. when they reach the ground level they are to come forward at ground level and meet the bottom of the front ground wires that had come down. this can be bonded together (front + rear left and front + rear right) with split bolts. you could also bond left rear with right rear on the ground and left front with right front on the ground to make the completed perimeter wire. i feel the front one can be skipped, but the back one may be a good idea.
at this point the left and right side of the house's lightning rods on the roof should get bonded together (split bolts again) with the wire going across the top. the cage and lake ground at this point is completed. the antennas can then be addressed and grounded to anywhere along that top wire or if more convenient it can attach to one of the cage downleads. remember to have no sharp bends in the wires.
the metal roofing can later be tied to the cage wires, but remember copper and other metals will have a reaction (galvanic) so protect the copper from contacting dissimilar metals.
What say you all?
icarus wrote: »
I think I got it,,, for now anyway.
My 120 panel has a neutral buss bar that is common to the grounded buss bar, so they both share the same ground. These are in turn bonded to the breaker box. I assume that this is the proper way to do it.
CaribSoul wrote: »
I think the "18 inches of topsoil" may be a little optimistic! The only place I'm sure has that much--and more--is where we have the biffy! There's a lot of exposed rock around the cabin.
My son has most likely arrived at his cousin's place for the night by now and will make the final push over the border to the cabin tomorrow. He did take the time to elaborate on the lightning/grounding issue (presumably while my daughter-in-law was driving!). Here's what he had to say:
"Happy to share the knowledge. You can also post our Material Sales guy’s phone number and email address, should anyone want to inquire about parts. ([email protected]) 801-512-5824. We also own a grounding engineering firm in LA called Lyncole XIT.
There’s a huge price, and conductivity issue with running a straight ground lead to the lake. Starting with the fact that class I copper lightning conductor is about $2.08 USD per foot, where as a couple of ground plates and some ground enhancement material is much less expensive, and more effective.
Another means acceptable to UL and the NFPA for current dissipation in shallow or crappy soil conditions--and more widely used--is a counterpoise or ground loop conductor, which is a main-sized copper conductor encircling the structure, buried as deep as possible, OR laid directly on top of bedrock and anchored every three feet. It is important to remember that the 3 main lightning protection/grounding standards, UL-96a, NFPA-780 and LPI-175, never offer a water source as an acceptable ground terminal for a structure. Only NFPA-780 mentions water in this capacity at all, and it is for WATERCRAFT ONLY.
I myself, would not recommend or use a body of water as an acceptable ground source. It’s conductivity and consistency, in this capacity, is really questionable to me.
It is also important to remember that secondary bonding of grounding or lightning protection conductors is critical. Every piece of potentially grounded, conductive material in a structure needs to be bonded, at least one time, to the grounding electrode. Failure to do this will leave these items at different potential and exposes the entire structure to secondary current literally jumping between these potentials--and setting fire to anything in its path. Picture huge arcs jumping around the house from the gas line to the kitchen sink to the fireplace. This is the risk taken when these conductive bodies are not bonded to the system.
You can also add that a surge suppressor without a complete, structural lightning protection system, or vice versa, is pointless, one has little or no impact without the other.
Feel free to edit and post accordingly--Jeff"
I'll add more as I get progress reports during the construction!