Do you turn off your Enphase microinverters at night?

Just curious, does anyone else turn off their grid tie microinverters at night? They consume about 50mA in standby so I calculated the 28 I have would consume a fair amount of power over the course of a year:
0,05A x 246VAC is 12.3w
28 microinverters is 344 W/hour
7 hours darkness is 2408W hours per day
$0.11/KWh is $0.26/day of power used in standby.
364x$0.26/day is $96.00 per year for all 28 microinverters in standby.
The three timers pay for themselves in about a year and a half at $50 each.
Are my calculations right?
I use mechanical timers right now. Tried some digital Sylvania ones but they crapped out. I've got one cloud based that I just installed and will see what that does in the long term.
Comments anyone? Here's a representative picture.
Pat

9000+W grid tied IQ7 22 panel rooftop and 6 panel ground combination with 1 additional IQ7 connected to 500W wind turbine+200w solar
Comments
...and I think the 5ma is max.
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
https://sunwatts.com/content/manual/Enphase-IQ7-7plus-7X-Micro-Manual-install-guide-EN-US.pdf (page 31):
- Night tare loss mW 50
In current:- 0.050 Watts / 240 VAC = 0.0002 Amperes (0.2 mAmperes)
- 28 inverters * 0.050 Watts = 1.4 Watts total
Your clock motor, per switch, 2x probably draws around 3 Watts (6 Watts total):https://www.homedepot.com/p/TORK-120-Volt-60-Hz-Replacement-Motor-101/303973883
Or 4x the Enphase night time power draw(?). And that is 24 hours per day for the timers.
I used to use these types of timers for security lights--But they ended up being a pain in the behind. Between having to reset for the seasons (hours of night by season) and the occasional power failure that had lights on during the day and off at night until somebody noticed and reset the timers.
If I had the chance, I would usually replace with photocell based controller. Dark=Lights on--No timing to worry about.
-Bill
I have seen small/standby power supplies (TVs, radios, etc.) that draw a bit of power when "off" (standby). And there is an issue with the "power equation":
- Simple power equation: Power = Voltage * Current
- Actual power equations: Power = Voltage * Current * Cosine between Voltage and current
- Actual power equation: Power = Voltage * Current * Power Factor (cosine and non-linear current wave form)
When using a Kill-a-Watt meter (cheap, probably not that accurate)--I have seen varying power PF numbers with standby loads. And to measure PF, you need a "power meter" and not just a simple current measurement--And the meter needs to do RMS (root mean square) current (and voltage) measurements (RMS = a "mathematical" average of a non-sine wave current profile that gives accurate current readings--Non-sinusoidal components).https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor
"Good PF" is usually 0.95 to 1.00 Power Factor. "Poor" PF is 0.80 to 0.50 (or less). Meaning that a PF of 0.50 will give you 1/2 of the expected power measurements:
- VA (Volt Amps) = Voltage * Current
- Watts (power) = Voltage * Current * PF
-Bill