When I was designing large computer systems in another life--I looked around and found that there were few actual "hard limits" for "acceptable" utility voltage... And acceptable nominal line voltage has changed over time (generally increasing).For example, when I was a kid, 110 VAC (220 VAC) was the nominal voltage... Slowly increased to 117 VAC (234) and now in the 120-125 nominal range. (Europe seemed to move from 220 to 230 VAC 50 Hz).Now, I would call 105-127 VAC (210 to 254 VAC) to be, sort of, US/North American standard for single phase. And ~132/264 VAC to be the actual acceptable maximum (when you call the power company and complain, most GT inverters shutdown around 260-264 VAC). Years past, typically only saw ~264 VAC at more remote sites in Australia (end of utility distribution has "iffy" regulation almost anywhere).Some places in Japan are ~100 VAC nominal...Throw in that (for example) the USA has two major 3 phase standards... Delta and Wye connected transformers--Which give 120/208 VAC nominal (Wye) and 120/240 VAC (Delta)...You see that many "appliances" (motors, ec.) are designed for world wide sales, so you may see name plate ratings that have different "acceptable" input voltage ranges.When the major loads were filament lighting and refrigerators (induction motor compressors)--Voltage was a big issue between damaged refrigerator motors (below 100 VAC brownouts) to 105-132 VAC input for lights (dim/yellow light at 105 volts, bright white and short life at 132 VAC).For us, our utilty (probably most utilities?) have learned to cut power rather than brownout (save motors from stalling/overheating). And with electronic power supplies for computers/electronics/LED lighting/ballasts for fluorescent lamps, etc.), many devices have very wide acceptable voltage ranges (i.e., dual voltage range 100-125/200-250 VAC) or wide range supplies (100-260 VAC for PFC power factor corrected power supplies/AC input) and actual specific line voltage is not as important (you can take your computer/cell phone charger to almost anywhere in the world these days). Your Inverter system is programmable so you can decide what is acceptable for your needs... For example you may set AC1 (utilty power) to 110-126 VAC / 220-252 VAC at 60 Hz +/- 1 Hz and set AC2 to 105-130 VAC / 210-260 VAC 60 Hz +/- 10 Hz for a mechanically regulated (voltage/speed) genset (so that you can get AC power and Charging under any "useful" genset conditions.My house typically runs ~122/244 to 124/248 VAC (near San Francisco CA) nominal (not that I have logged the voltage over time).-Bill
And to add to that3 phase is for large apartment houses, three phase is fed to the master panel but each apartment has single phase fed from the 3 phase main panel, only the central heating and or central water heater has 3 phase, the apartments do not get 3 phaselarge commercial and industrial is 3 phaseSingle residences are always single phase, no exception there is 120 volt only SINGLE PHASEthere is also 120/240 volt SINGLE PHASE. also known as SPLIT PHASE, it is not poly phaseTHREE PHASE IS NEVER IN A SINGLE HOUSEHOLD......the PUC does not allow THREE PHASE IN A HOUSEHOLD YOU HAVE SINGLE PHASE 120/240 volt service, the most common in America, center tap grounded AKA SPLIT PHASELEAVE IT ALONETD out.....
I can reset to factory and start from scratch with no issues, both the installer and Schneider have had me do that several times. The only thing that I need to reset are the battery settings, and turn A/C coupling off... and the load shaving again.