Battery Monitor and/or Multiple temperature sensors
Comments
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Dave Angelini said:mcgivor said:Dave Angelini said:"when in doubt read the manual" It is in there to use only one sensor for a reason. If you think you are more in the know than the people who designed the system do it.
There has to be some sanity here, right?
You are doing the right thing Dicky!
The purpose of a discussion is to discuss, the manual was consulted, if it had said use one and only one remote temperature sensor, then that would be blatantly clear, perhaps my manual is different from others, this is what my manual states.
There are also problems over the 15 years of XW and hundreds of installations I have seen that are caused by multiple sensors.
Familiarization with a given product gives one an advantage, however complacency of said knowledge can often lead to closed mindedness. We are all here to learn from one another, manuals can often be fallacious, the interpretation of what is stated can often be interpreted differently, which opens the dialog of discussion. Schneider manuals are particularly vague in some areas, lacking definitive guidelines, case in point, if one, and only one, remote temperature sensor is required to prevent complications as you claim, why not say so.
This forum is, in my opinion, one of the most civil in cyber world, it's a pleasure to interact with members who may have a diminutive understanding of electrical theroy. Helping is one of the greatest gifts one can offer, especially for free, without intention to receive monetary gain in exchange for knowledge. Some may feel humiliation if not treated the way they expect, we're all strangers to on another after all, so never respond in prejudice, is the implication of what I'm attempting to convey.1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Battery Bodyguard BMS
Second system 1890W 3 × 300W No name brand poly, 3×330 Sunsolar Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Daly BMS, used for water pumping and day time air conditioning.
5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergency charging and welding. -
Move on.... Get over that I like monetary gain. I am a capitalist and dislike socialism. I get what you are trying to convey.
Don't use multiple sensors unless you have multiple battery monitors. As Waterwheel said this has been expressed differently over the years. The OP here has multiple strings. That is not the same as multiple battery banks."Using more than one Battery Temperature Sensor may result in undefined behavior. The system will accept only one BTS and use it for the system. Other devices that have a BTS connected will generally display a value, but the value may not be correct and may not update."
Peace is best!
"we go where power lines don't" Sierra Nevada mountain area
htps://offgridsolar1.com/
E-mail offgridsolar@sti.net -
The cost benefit battery argument again...perpetually. This has been the question for as long as battery systems have existed. When I built my small of grid house, the choice was between 4 L-16s or 4 T 105s. I did a calculation that if the T 105s lasted 5 years and the L 16s with years, they would have been roughly equal in price (as well as total KWH used given my loading). I chose the T-105s for a few reasons, cost be one, weight being the other and the L 16s required more PV to optimally charge. I am now in year 11 on the T 105, and they are bringing to slowly loose capacity.
Fast forward a few years... I built a very similar system for some folks. The choice was between genuine Trojan T105s (having “proved the value equation above) or simple Costco GC “deep cycle” batteries. The former coming it at ~$720 for four all in, the latter coming in a ~$360 all in. Once again, the cheap ones will win if they only last ~1/2 as long as the Trojans. I am in year three of that experiment. This is for a seasonal occupancy, with quite small loading, so it is likely (IMHO) that the batteries will die of old age before they die from being cycled. I need to wait another 2 years to see if I won that bet.
Fast forward another couple of years. I build another system, this time also with a short seasonal usage pattern, but with probably more draw per day but for fewer days. With this system, I went to 24 vdc because I am guessing the clients needs will grow, so I wanted higher voltage to the inverter. (I would have gone 48vdc, but that would have require double the batteries and double the panels and the client didn’t want to spend the money. I can add panels any time, and within reason double the batteries.I went with 4 Costco’s on the theory that these people will probably kill them by over drawing even though I have configed the system to LVD quite early, but the same logic applies. If the Costco’s last 1/2 as long, then we are even.
The other advantage of simple GC batteries is that they are available EVERYWHERE and as such are really cheap. Not to diss Trojan, or Crown or Rolls, but are they really twice as long lived all else remaining equal? Big draws, 24/7 365, probably. Lightly used, maybe not so. I am going to replace my personal year round system with real T 105s, probably this fall, mostly because I know them so well.
Tony -
IMHO, the only reason to use L16s vs GCs is capacity. If you can get what you need from one or two strings of GCs, that's the way I'd go.Off-grid.
Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter -
If I had stayed with a smaller inverter I would have stayed with golf cart batteries, but I wanted a 3000 watt plus inverter for power tool use and I do not like parallel strings of batteries I have switched to L-16's as that is the largest battery I can lift without being dependent on someone else. Starting over I would go higher voltage and golf cart batteries. But all my inverters are 24 volt. If I buy a Rosie it will be 48 volt and I may go to a different chemistry of battery, LFP looks the best to me at this point.2 Classic 150, 2 Kid, 5 arrays 7.5 kw total 2ea. 2S6P Sharp NE-170/NE-165, 1ea. 12P Sanyo HIT 200, 2ea. 4/6P Sanyo HIT 200, MagnaSine MS4024AE, Exeltech XP-1100, 2 Banks L-16 battery, Rolls-Surette S-530 and Interstate Traction, Shunts with whizbangJr and Bogart Tri-Metric, iCharger i208B dc-dc buck/boost converter with BMS for small form lithium 8S 16650 or LiFePO4,
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