Finally an energy saving window unit built ! Wow

Finally an energy saving window unit built that requires little skill to install. Gamechanger from LG
https://www.lg.com/us/air-conditioners/lg-LW1517IVSM
https://www.lg.com/us/air-conditioners/lg-LW1517IVSM
"we go where power lines don't" Sierra Nevada mountain area
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Conext XW6848 with PDP, SCP, 80/600 controller, 60/150 controller and Conext battery monitor
21 SW280 panels on Schletter ground mount
48v Rolls 6CS 27P
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I've been looking to run 3-4 split air units on panels (each independent) to cool part of my 2500 sq ft home here in so cal. Was just about to go for it when I ran across this article for window units and just about jumped out of my chair b/c of the simplicity to install vs split air.
My initial thinking is along the following lines: 4x300 watt panels; 40 amp cc, 1500 ps inverter,("x" hrs battery back up), to run the window units at 300 watts+/- first thing in the am until it really starts to heat up then increase to 800+/- watts until later afternoon then reduce to 300 watts then battery back up for 2-3 hours. I realize the solar array won't be able to run the LG 14000 btu full blast all day but at 300-800 watts for the entire day on solar which should keep house at a cool temp, even with 3-4 units, I'm thinking this will use a heck of a lot less electricity than what I'm using now with my central hvac unit especially since two bedrooms are now emptynesters.
Dave, any input or suggestions? My back yard is pretty big and have area to face some panels east/west and others right over pool equipment/bedroom deck, so have solar panel placement covered.
How is the insulation for your home? As I understand a large loss for central air is heat loss through the ducting... Mini-splits don't have ducting, so they can have improved efficiency over your present central A/C. And if you need some heat, mini-split heat pumps can help you there too. More efficient and less costly than baseboard electric heaters (if you have natural gas heating, a heat pump may not save much money over natural gas heating).
On the solar power question... Are you looking at Grid Tied solar power system (solar panels+GT inverter(s))? Or are you looking for a battery based system (hybrid/off grid solar power system)? In general, GT Solar is about the cheapest/most reliable system for generating power for your home--But the pendulum is swinging the other direction now and GT Solar power systems are losing their subsidies (rate plans that are very favorable to GT Solar installations).
Hybrid and off grid solar power systems (that have battery banks), tend to be much more expensive to install and maintain... And I would not suggest such a system to "save money".
-Bill
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I suspect that there will quickly be a "hack" to allow setting A/C power to match excess solar generation, so that for zero-export and off-grid installations you can ensure that you are running entirely off solar (rather than grid or battery.)
I think others will start doing this. Their pricing indicates to me it is not much more for a consumer than the low Fi window units that abound.
For Offgrid it would be an excellent spare to get you through until you are brave enough to go back to the big city
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Maybe next season.
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
What do you think? 1200 watts of panels to run the a/c during day only?
House has blown insulation and is well vented and in good shape. walls also fully insulated. I'm here in the Los Angeles area. My hvac works great it's just the damn cost in the summer. If i could get 3 of these units to cool the areas we actually use in the house; bedroom/tv room and kitchen, (1100+/- sqft.) and I could run 6-7 hours on solar this would really save on my bill. I figure about $2,300-2,500 cost per unit (a/c, panels,inverter/cc-i have wiring/channel to mount etc). 3 units, total cost $7,500. if i save $400 a month for 3.5 months each summer the payback is about 6 years. The cost vs. payback is worth it to me. I can't see spending any more than this to get full solar for my house. I;m pretty stingy on using power. My bill w/o ac is about $120 per month and that's running my variable speed pool pump 4 hrs a day; frig/wine frig inside, outdoor frig, timers/motion detectors on all lighting. (yeah, i know I could close vents to rooms that we don't use but I have read this is not good for a forced air system/and mine works great).
As to the lg-lw1517ivsm ac, i just took a look at one and i thought i read a thread somewhere that these lg's were a/c and heat. Am I wrong about this? the lg is a/c only? thanks for the reply's, oh, and if the lg is a/c and heat, what's the model number? 12k or 14k btu.
Specific info from my electronic field testing and close to 30 years of experience with 200+ offgrid homes is my business.
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If I was doing this, I'd look at using an inverter that can use solar to offset/supplement grid (as opposed to full grid-tied with sell-back.
Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
Looks like they making these in other sizes, They had a dual inverter compressor in a 14000 and 18000 btu last year.
I can't find it on their website, but looks like a 9500 btu got it's Energy Star rating last week. No idea about the price or availability yet, but it has a CEER of 13.8, Most/All other window units in this size are <12. Not as good as the larger 14000 with a CEER of 14.7, but I needed a smaller unit for my 400-450 square foot main room.
It's a LG - LW1019IVSM according to Energy Star;
https://www.energystar.gov/productfinder/product/certified-room-air-conditioners/details-plus/2334753#PriceAndLocation
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
BTW- the energy star ratings on the 14000 btu unit were pretty impressive! When compared to other units which used between $115 and $182 worth of electric it used $68!
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
That is a nice EER also. I saw the 14kbtu at Lowes last week. One third the price of a similar split.
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The 9500 btu one will be interesting....
I saw them at Lowes last week. Most offgrid users would be better off with a mini-split for low energy use.
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@wankel7 "I think this type of unit will have it's appeal with travel trailer owners and vans. More so with vans since a mini split is pretty difficult to do. "
The new and smallest is 9500btu large enough to for a 450 square foot room!
@Dave Angelini "I saw them at Lowes last week. Most offgrid users would be better off with a mini-split for low energy use."
If they have 240v available. I haven't seen any real high SEER ratings for mini splits that were not 240 volts. I suspect these would be pretty close to the 120 mini splits. LG eluded to perhaps it would be time to use comparable rating systems.
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
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https://www.lg.com/us/air-conditioners/lg-LP1419IVSM-portable-air-conditioner
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After running all night, the Killawatt shows 250 watts usage. I didn't plug the Killawatt in until this morning, so can't say what it used overnight. Temp is set to 67, fan on lowest speed. The rooms are very dry. This is better than the LG 9 kbtu mini split I put in a client's house. And when the compressor is throttling up or down, it sounds just like the out door unit on the mini split sounds when throttling up or down.
I'll leave the unit running for the next 24 hours and provide usage numbers here.
Long term reader, first comment.
Rancher
Yesterday to today, 10 pm to 6 am (8 hours) used 4.75 kwh, so 590 watts (average). Door to downstairs closed. Fan is on low.
I realize this is not a complete description of the operating conditions for the AC. Just wanted to get some watt numbers out there for people like me who need a ballpark idea of how something is going to perform. The AC rated amps are 12.0; I never saw the unit go above 900 watts, so 7.2 amps (utility line voltage is 124/248)
With fan on lowest speed, it is still putting out a river of cold dry air, and it's very quiet, considering the condenser fan and compressor are right there in the box.
why 67 deg F? No reason, I have almost always managed without AC at home and at work, so I really have no idea what a good sleeping temp is supposed to be. Plus it was hot and 100% humidity two days ago when I put it in. Cold felt good. Should probably be set mid 70s.
Someone could do some proper testing on this thing.
People are told by the government to set at 78F. There is some logic to it but that is a bit high for me.
A realistic test for an offgrid home is probably around 75 F at night and anything you want when the solar is on. The best test would be just 75F for 24 hours, and then subtract day time KWH. The split here can run about 3 KWH at night but that is with a pretty warm night, or lately a smokey night
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The energy guide figures are probably the most accurate for comparison purposes between units because it's a level playing field, but not necessarily accurate for personal use expectations which could be > or < quoted Everyone has a personal comfort temperature for sleeping, for example 27°C or 80.6 °F works for me, others may think this is a hot summer day type temperature.
With my split system, the overnight the energy useage can vary between 2.5Kwh with outdoor 35°C, to less than 1Kwh when 28°C or less, ceiling insulation is R21, walls are lightweight thermo cement with ceramic paint, no direct sunlight during the day, attic temperature >50°C in direct sunlight, irrelevant during the night.
Second system 1890W 3 × 300W No name brand poly, 3×330 Sunsolar Poly panels, Morningstar TS 60 PWM controller, no name 2000W inverter 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Daly BMS, used for water pumping and day time air conditioning.
5Kw Yanmar clone single cylinder air cooled diesel generator for rare emergency charging and welding.