Too much Input Power for my Charge Controller?
Comments
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When you series PV's you add the VMp so you would present about 150Volts to the Charge Controller.In series you do not add the Amperage... I believe you should be looking at something like a MidNite Solar Classic 200 as you do not want to run any Electronics above 75 - 80% if you want them to survive any length of time...you have not told us the battery voltage as it has an effect on the configuration of the PV's
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It's not uncommon to have to go online to find manuals these days, here's yours. After popping the link open click next to it and you should get the option of saving it to your computer;
http://www.epsolarpv.com/en/uploads/news/201710/1508812885787574.pdfjmbljb1 said:My son has given me four JASolar PV panels. Each panel is rated at 325 W with a Vmp of 37.49 and a Voc of 46.48. I believe that makes them nominal 24V panels.jmbljb1 said:The four panels will be run in series. I recently purchased an EPEVER 4210 charge controller...jmbljb1 said:I recently purchased an EPEVER 4210 charge controller and now I was wondering if it will be able to withstand the input of the four panels.jmbljb1 said:The Charge controller states that Max. PV open circuit voltage is 100V. But does that mean the panels input will make a total of 96v (24V times 4), or will they input 149.96v (37.49Vmp times 4), or will they input 185.92v (46.48Voc times 4).jmbljb1 said:I'm only going to connect it to a two 12v 200ah battery bank.jmbljb1 said:In addition the Charge Controller also states that the Max. PV input power is 520W(12V) & 1040W(24V). Does this mean 325W times 4 will be 1300W and too much for the controller?
Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
westbranch said:yo have not told us the battery voltage as it has an effect on the configuration of the PV's
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BTW- 4 panels in parallel would mean they should have fuses on each panel, usually done with a combiner box though you can get some inline fuses as well which would be a cheaper option;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YG2BZM0/ref=asc_df_B00YG2BZM05503684/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00YG2BZM0&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193994910693&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1325996051958514102&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9022946&hvtargid=pla-313511126853
Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
Photowhit said:
The actual Max appears to be 92 volts VOC at STC (25degrees centigrade). 2 in series would be over the 92 volt max as I read your manual. So the panels would need to be 4 in parallel to work and not have a chance of damaging your charge controller. It might be worth asking them, but it looks like this is what they want from the manual.
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Yes that should be fine, there are other things to be concerned with, how much wattage will be lost as voltage drop if yoou have to go very far from the array (panels, where I would combine them and run a single set of wires) to the charge controller (which should be near the batteries.)
The charge controllers are rated on output current/amperage. The trick in this case is that MPPT type charge controller need a bit of 'head' room above the charging voltage. So the voltage may be too low to work well with the MPPT charge controller if you are running the batteries in series for 24 volts. If you are running them in parallel, then you were always going to have too much wattage coming in for the available 40 amp output. Even considering the 75% NOCT (Normal Operating Cell Temperature) value of about 1300/.75=925 watts 925/14 volts (charging voltage for 12 volts) = 66 amps.
Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
Photowhit said:Yes that should be fine, there are other things to be concerned with, how much wattage will be lost as voltage drop if yoou have to go very far from the array (panels, where I would combine them and run a single set of wires) to the charge controller (which should be near the batteries.)
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If using branch connectors for combining then you need these MC-4 fuse holders to fuse each panel BEFORE the branch connector.
2.1 Kw Suntech 175 mono, Classic 200, Trace SW 4024 ( 15 years old but brand new out of sealed factory box Jan. 2015), Bogart Tri-metric, 460 Ah. 24 volt LiFePo4 battery bank. Plenty of Baja Sea of Cortez sunshine.
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littleharbor2 said:If using branch connectors for combining then you need these MC-4 fuse holders to fuse each panel BEFORE the branch connector.
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Probably. The fuse rating is usually on the data label on the panel.
2.1 Kw Suntech 175 mono, Classic 200, Trace SW 4024 ( 15 years old but brand new out of sealed factory box Jan. 2015), Bogart Tri-metric, 460 Ah. 24 volt LiFePo4 battery bank. Plenty of Baja Sea of Cortez sunshine.
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jmbljb1 said:littleharbor2 said:If using branch connectors for combining then you need these MC-4 fuse holders to fuse each panel BEFORE the branch connector.
https://www.solar-electric.com/dinrail-6-inches.html
and a breaker from NAWS
https://www.solar-electric.com/midnite-solar-mneac40-breaker.html
Nice to have a breaker on the output side as well to isolate the charge controller.
Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
Photowhit said:jmbljb1 said:...If I'm running four panels in parallel, shouldn't the branch connector be able to handle the 36 amps that will be traveling through it. Is there one on the market that can handle this?
https://www.solar-electric.com/dinrail-6-inches.html
and a breaker from NAWS
https://www.solar-electric.com/midnite-solar-mneac40-breaker.html
Nice to have a breaker on the output side as well to isolate the charge controller.
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jmbljb1 said:
I have already purchased the breakers for the input and the output side of the charge controller and I'm going to order the fuses for the panels, but I'm more concerned about the low amperage of the branch connectors (4 into 1) that I have to connect my panels in parallel with. Don't I need one rated at 40 amps?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-AWG-8-Gauge-One-Pair-Black-Red-Solar-Panel-Cable-Wire-MC4-Connector-/262589569814
Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
I hope you purchased some DC rated breakers, DC can sustain an arc much easier than AC so the design is different.Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
Photowhit said:I hope you purchased some DC rated breakers, DC can sustain an arc much easier than AC so the design is different.
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Caution with using MC4 fuses and connectors, you must shut down the charge controller, before opening a connector in the daytime. The connectors are not rated to connect/disconnect under load, and if you do so, the DC arc will likely destroy the thin gold plate on the connector.
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mike95490 said:Caution with using MC4 fuses and connectors, you must shut down the charge controller, before opening a connector in the daytime. The connectors are not rated to connect/disconnect under load, and if you do so, the DC arc will likely destroy the thin gold plate on the connector.
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here is a sample of a 2 PV in parallel from Mid|Nite Solar for their 30 Amp charger. Should help you visualize the parts you would need. http://www.midnitesolar.com/pdfs/Kid_12V_2p_Par_REV_B.pdf
KID #51B 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
West Chilcotin, BC, Canada -
westbranch said:here is a sample of a 2 PV in parallel from Mid|Nite Solar for their 30 Amp charger. Should help you visualize the parts.
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jmbljb1 said:westbranch said:here is a sample of a 2 PV in parallel from Mid|Nite Solar for their 30 Amp charger. Should help you visualize the parts.
The in line fuses will be your 'combiner'
You don't have to have any lightning protection. That's the thing in the lower left hand corner, marked SPD 300.
If you are ground mounting these, I wouldn't worry and in fact if you are putting in your shed and there will be some space say a foot between the shed and panels, I'd 'float' the system rather than ground. This also throws out the Ground fault protection. There is some minor risk, I'd say very minor. and even some benefit, a near by lightning strike is less likely to damage your equipment.
Your branch connectors are pretty much what the bus bars are...
The top right thing is your charge controller, you have 40 amp breakers in front of and behind it
Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
Photowhit said:
Your branch connectors are pretty much what the bus bars are...Well that's good news. Can my branch connectors be four (two into one) connectors instead of the two (four into one). Would this allow me to use the 30 amp branch connectors (that I can find) instead of the 40 amp connectors (that I can't find) ? -
You would only need 3 pairs of branch connectors, then larger gauge wire from there, on.
2.1 Kw Suntech 175 mono, Classic 200, Trace SW 4024 ( 15 years old but brand new out of sealed factory box Jan. 2015), Bogart Tri-metric, 460 Ah. 24 volt LiFePo4 battery bank. Plenty of Baja Sea of Cortez sunshine.
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jmbljb1 said:Photowhit said:
Your branch connectors are pretty much what the bus bars are...Well that's good news. Can my branch connectors be four (two into one) connectors instead of the two (four into one). Would this allow me to use the 30 amp branch connectors (that I can find) instead of the 40 amp connectors (that I can't find) ?
Solid connector;
Wired;
If you can't find the wired in 8 gauge.
I know they make the solid in 4 to 1, but I think it would be a huge pain if you had to disconnect them, particularly with fuses. I'm sure it would be tempting to have all the fuses in one place. I have no real experience with this, but know MC4 can be a pain to take apart even with the proper tools.
Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
Personally I'm of the opinion that all these branch connectors are a convince to not do the correct method, perhaps they have a use where voltages are high, 600V+, with low currents, however in circumstances where current is high, voltages low, there are better methods, such as a combiner, where positive terminations are possible.1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider MPPT 60 150 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 400Ah LFP 24V nominal battery with Battery Bodyguard BMS
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Well this is my solution.(I think it will work) I am going to connect 1 set of the panels in series (2 panels) and the other set of panels in series (2 panels). That will essentially give me two big panels of 74.98 V and 8.67 Amps. Then I'm going to connect those two big panels in parallel. That should give me 74.98 V and 17.34 A going into the charge controller. Well under the 92V and 40 A the charge controller is rated at. Is this correct? and will it work? Thanks for any advice.
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Now were back to square one. The VOC will be too high for that controller. You need a controller with a 150 volt max.
2.1 Kw Suntech 175 mono, Classic 200, Trace SW 4024 ( 15 years old but brand new out of sealed factory box Jan. 2015), Bogart Tri-metric, 460 Ah. 24 volt LiFePo4 battery bank. Plenty of Baja Sea of Cortez sunshine.
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littleharbor2 said:The VOC will be too high for that controller. You need a controller with a 150 volt max.
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That temperature is for Standard Test Conditions of ~75F/20C... If your area has cold overnight temperatures (especially sub freezing), then the Voc/Vmp will rise.In a climate that gets really cold (below freezing), then very roughly Vmp-std-array~100 VDC (Voc-std-array~117 VDC) gives you Voc-cold>~140-150 VDC max.Many controller manufacturers will have a website that helps you calculate these values vs controller limits. Midnite Solar has a pretty easy to use tool and can be helpful even for non-Midnite controllers:If you are on a tropical island with ocean around your, frequently the temperature never drops much below 70F.-Bill
Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
+1, What Bill said.
2.1 Kw Suntech 175 mono, Classic 200, Trace SW 4024 ( 15 years old but brand new out of sealed factory box Jan. 2015), Bogart Tri-metric, 460 Ah. 24 volt LiFePo4 battery bank. Plenty of Baja Sea of Cortez sunshine.
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BB. said:Many controller manufacturers will have a website that helps you calculate these values vs controller limits. Midnite Solar has a pretty easy to use tool and can be helpful even for non-Midnite controllers:-Bill
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