New guy with questions
![Kansasrustbuzzard](https://w0.vanillicon.com/0a144b696817acd753d292e4364ce4df_100.png)
Thank you in advance, KRB
Comments
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For a distance of 1/2 mile, it would probably pay to put step up and step down transformers at the ends of the run and carry a higher voltage but lower amperage over the long distance.
You could go up to 480V with a normal electrician, but if you look at what the utility would probably use (4120V) that is definitely out of the DIY or even residential electrician category and the cable for underground is quite expensive too. You pay for insulation instead of copper.
SMA SB 3000, old BP panels. -
Sounds like you have enough room to ground mount some solar. That would keep the house aesthetics as is, besides before one does a solar roof the first order of business is to assess the current roof condition and replace if needed to get through at least 20 years. With a very conservative usage numbers an efficient setup can get by on about 3KW worth of panels just as a starting place. I would not expect a heat pump to be part of that, but perhaps a well can be included. You may want to reconsider the big central heat pump and use mini split systems as needed. Your location would be a big factor in all of the above.
Not enamoured with small wind. Do you have a wind survey for the site? if not that would be the first order of business. To make wind work you will need a lot of clear ground around the turbines and be able to erect the towers and have a way to service the turbine annually, either by climbing the tower or lower the turbine. If done correctly solar can be pretty maintenance free for at least the first 5-10 years.
With Nat Gas at the right price and not knowing your location I would bet a spreadsheet of the heating system over time would be hard pressed to beat the Nat Gas with anything else.
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I have checked on my average wind speed and its 13.9, Chicago is only 10.3 so not sure how they got the title. I can see 3 wind farms from the property and more are coming. Its flat as a pancake and completely treeless. Lots of people still pump all their domestic water with windmills as there is seldom 2 days in a row with out it. I do have a digger derrick that can lay the windchargers down and put them up, I have worked on pumping mills my whole life.
I do have a trencher, backhoe and all that so I am investigating the possibility of doing an underground also. If it were just me, I would probably go with gas everything, lighting and all but that is not always practical with a couple nor do I like the idea of someone else down the road having an accident.
I am going to have to do something and do it by next spring so I appreciate everyone's input. Thanks -
I think you may have got some bad advice on the problems of dust and solar. It certainly has not been my experience with more than a 5% loss with dust and even a flock of birds with lower GI issues is not going to be that bad. The wind as a supplement in winter might be OK but I would just design for solar and do what Inetdog suggested and you will not need a generator.
If you can even get 5 amps of 240V AC the 1/2 mile you could skip the solar and just use a battery based inverter charger. I have done this with a client."we go where power lines don't" Sierra Nevada mountain area
htps://offgridsolar1.com/
E-mail offgridsolar@sti.net -
If anyone has dust issues it is me in PHX this time of year, The haboobs around here make dust an issue but a garden hose is sufficient to cure the problem. We have had golf ball size hail a couple times and all the panels survive, they are pretty resilient against hail damage.
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It sounds like negotiating might be a good place to start. Go offer them 10K.
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30K in itself oughtnt be that big a deal breaker, as a system capable of equivalent service will cost you at least that, and then you have maintance, regular battery and electronics replacement, and im talking long term here. Batterys every 7 years, electronics every 10. Over the several generations life of the grid connection, that will add up.
However, if your consumption is very low, your grid daily rate quite high, and your intial budget low, then the math can start to look different. Basically you just need to do long term cost comparisons and make a decision. Where that gets interesting is trying to project the costs of both solar and grid. You have to make assumptions and hope for the best.
1.8kWp CSUN, 10kWh AGM, Midnite Classic 150, Outback VFX3024E,
http://zoneblue.org/cms/page.php?view=off-grid-solar -
zoneblue said:30K in itself oughtnt be that big a deal breaker, as a system capable of equivalent service will cost you at least that, and then you have maintance, regular battery and electronics replacement, and im talking long term here. Batterys every 7 years, electronics every 10. Over the several generations life of the grid connection, that will add up.
Sounds like a Good time to point out to the "Rust Buzzard" that 2016 is the last year (at least to this point, I haven't heard about an extension) of the U.S. federal governments 30% tax credit on alternative energy. This is a straight credit against any tax liability.
As to system size we don't know what his "equivalent service" will be. but he does appear to want to use "geothermal heat and air" which is still electric, though I would guess you could do some sort of gas version for heat(I'm clueless here). Since the system would be completely off grid your peak energy use is important and electric heating would be a deal or "wallet" breaker!
I do remember riding a motorcycle across Kansas at a 15 degree tilt, but wind is fickle perhaps more so than solar. I would want a generator that could completely support my electrical system, for any wind based system in most areas.
Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites, Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
- Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects. -
As part of adding PV to our homestead, we had the last 2 poles from the 1930's pulled. Moved the main disconnect and meter socket to that point were it went underground. You can find panels that don't scream solar. From the driveway and road, most people don't notice. These are SP-335 'black'.
42 SP-335's (14.1kw) -> 4 FLEXmax 80's / 5kWh using 17 CA100 CALB cells / FLEXnet DC / MATE3 -> 2 Radian GS8048A and watched over by Vantage Pro 2+ PWS all running since 2015 -
That is a very good looking installation.
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Kansasrustbuzzard said:That is a very good looking installation.42 SP-335's (14.1kw) -> 4 FLEXmax 80's / 5kWh using 17 CA100 CALB cells / FLEXnet DC / MATE3 -> 2 Radian GS8048A and watched over by Vantage Pro 2+ PWS all running since 2015
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Kansasrustbuzzard said:That is a very good looking installation.42 SP-335's (14.1kw) -> 4 FLEXmax 80's / 5kWh using 17 CA100 CALB cells / FLEXnet DC / MATE3 -> 2 Radian GS8048A and watched over by Vantage Pro 2+ PWS all running since 2015
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Kansasrustbuzzard said:That is a very good looking installation.42 SP-335's (14.1kw) -> 4 FLEXmax 80's / 5kWh using 17 CA100 CALB cells / FLEXnet DC / MATE3 -> 2 Radian GS8048A and watched over by Vantage Pro 2+ PWS all running since 2015
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Kansasrustbuzzard said:That is a very good looking installation.42 SP-335's (14.1kw) -> 4 FLEXmax 80's / 5kWh using 17 CA100 CALB cells / FLEXnet DC / MATE3 -> 2 Radian GS8048A and watched over by Vantage Pro 2+ PWS all running since 2015
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