Blackcherry04 wrote: »
Do a test, when I moved to a fast Charge scheme of bulk charging at 25 - 30% of C below gassing level I saved enough $$$ in fuel savings in the first year and a half to pay for the whole battery bank and 3 years later they are still trucking along. I have to say, it's for batteries that are pulled to 50 % dod and have 300-400 amp hrs to be returned.
I understand that there are battery charging strategies that are optimum for the battery, less than optimum for the battery, and catastrophic.
I would also put forth that what is optimum for the battery is less than optimum for the generator in some cases, and also defeats one major purpose of having batteries (silence).
I am now bulking @ 33%
gww1 wrote: »
I still don't understand why you can't have both the optimum battery charging and optimun generator use. You are going to purchase batteries so you don't have co compermize cause you are using things that where not ment to be used with each other. I don't understand setting up a system to purposely go to 80% dod when you can set up a system that will have the same generator concerns taken care of with the battery concerns also being taken care of. A pure dollars and sense solution. The only thing that would stop you from doing this would be as stated earlier, zero room to do so or a pure hate of having to add water to batteries. You haven't bought yet so why not optimize for your intended use?
gww1 wrote: »
Blackcherry and audio
Does it seem like the heat being generated is out of line or is it doing really well?
softdown wrote: »
Using a $7500 genset several times a day, during the winter, for battery charging makes my head hurt.
gww1 wrote: »
Getting back to the batteries, One other thing to consider is whether your equipment will even let you take your battery down to eighty pecent discharge. I once tried to take my battery down to about 45 volts. I found that my inverter would kick it off line due to voltage drop under load. I do have some heavy loads and also a forktruck battery which are notorious for voltage drop under load. I now have my low voltage disconnect set at 44.8 and when my batteries go off line my cc will have the low voltage for the day at right at 46 volts. I will look at the battery and it will be setting at anywhere from 48.2 volts to 49.2 volts. The only thing I can think is happening is that the inverter whose range is 44 volts to 65 volts is getting to 44 volts faster then the cc is recording it. I have a well pump that runs at about 2000 watts and I am sure the start surge is much higher then that. It kicks on everytime you flush a toilet. I believe I could take my batteries lower with lower loads but I don't mind ending up aroung 60% soc. I had to manualy keep putting my loads on the battery the one time I tried to take it lower and the lower it got the quicker it disconnected. I think alaskaman uses the same inverter as you so maby not a problim but then again you might have heaver start up loads.
I also heard inverter efficiancy goes down as the battery is highly discharged but don't know if that is true.
Aint none of this stuff easy in my opinion.
I don't know if this has bearing or not but tought I would throw it out there.
gww1 wrote: »
Did you read the comments after the artical of your first posted link? The battery university one.
Purpose of data: "charge efficiency factor" See section 6.22, part 4 for an explanation of “charge efficiency factor”.
Choosing values of "charge efficiency factor": In the “L1” mode this value is fixed at 94%. If you wish to adjust it to
a different value you will need to switch to “L3” mode. The actual "charge efficiency" factor for lead acid batteries
while they are not at the top of charge is generally higher than 94%, so this will usually give a conservative value for
"amp-hours from full"-- that is the meter will generally slightly under-estimate the “% Full” value for the batteries
which will give a useful practical result for knowing state of charge.
Optional technical note: Some people familiar with batteries will be surprised that the suggested "efficiency factor" is as high as 94%. Without going
into all the details here, there are two reasons for this: (1) The number entered in the TriMetric is not true battery efficiency, or energy efficiency,
(which is often quoted at 70-80% for lead acid batteries) but charge efficiency. Charge efficiency (the ratio of total amp-hours you get out divided
by total amp-hours to charge the battery) is always greater than energy efficiency. (2) What is entered in the TriMetric is not even the overall charge
efficiency of the battery, but the charge efficiency while the battery is not at the top of charge, and not gassing. A battery is not charge efficient
while at the top of charge, so if this part is excluded the battery is very charge efficient. (We have measured this to be 95-98% with Trojan wet cell
For the perfectionist only: Practical utility doesn't demand perfection--and the reality of changing battery temperature makes this difficult. But if you
wish to try and your batteries are fairly constant in temperature: the ideal is that the TriMetric “% full” should show 100% at the time that the
charging system has fully charged the batteries and the "charged" lamp flashes on the TriMetric, as explained in section 6.-2.-2.) If you find that the
% reading is somewhat below 100% after the charging system has fully charged your batteries, then you could increase the efficiency factor. If
you find that the numbers are going above 100% when your charging system has finished charging, then decrease the efficiency factor. But note
that if the battery temperature went up since the last "full charge" was reached, the "amp-hours" will be somewhat negative the next time reaching
"charged." And if temperature went down, they'll be somewhat positive.