Question for MidNite CLassic 150 owners

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  • verdigo
    verdigo Solar Expert Posts: 428 ✭✭
    #32
    Re: Question for MidNite CLassic 150 owners

    The blue sea fuses sure do appear to be a simple solution for individual strings and the price is right as long as my shed doesn't burn down.
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  • jcheil
    jcheil Solar Expert Posts: 722 ✭✭✭
    #33
    Re: Question for MidNite CLassic 150 owners

    Confusing, so would the Bluesea terminal fuses be OK to use on a 48v battery bank of 430ah? Even though the charging voltage would be in the 58v range most of the time?
    Off-Grid in Central Florida since 2005, Full-Time since June 2014 | 12 X Sovello 205w panels, 9 X ToPoint 220w panels, 36x ToPoint 225w panels (12,525 watts total) | Custom built single-axis ground mounts | Complete FP2 Outback System: 3 x FM80, 2 x VFX3648, X240 Transformer, FLEXnet-DC, Mate-3, Hub-10, FW500 AC/DC | 24 x Trojan L16RE-B Batteries 1110ah @ 48v | Honda EU7000is Generator and a pile of "other" Generators | Home-Made PVC solar hot water collector | Custom data logging software http://www.somewhatcrookedcamp.com/monitormate.html
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  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    #34
    Re: Question for MidNite CLassic 150 owners

    The Blue Sea fuses are not suitable for a 48 Volt system.
    Voltage rating on an over-current device needs to be able to interrupt the maximum Voltage the system will see. When they trip and the circuit breaks the current immediately drops and the Voltage immediately rises, meaning the fuse or breaker will be subject to the higher no-load Voltage rather than the lower loaded Voltage. If it is not capable of handling that higher Voltage there could be arcing.

    This is the biggest problem with 48 Volt systems: getting fuses/breakers/disconnects that can handle the >60 Volts involved.
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  • jcheil
    jcheil Solar Expert Posts: 722 ✭✭✭
    #35
    Re: Question for MidNite CLassic 150 owners
    Cariboocoot wrote: »
    The Blue Sea fuses are not suitable for a 48 Volt system.
    Voltage rating on an over-current device needs to be able to interrupt the maximum Voltage the system will see. When they trip and the circuit breaks the current immediately drops and the Voltage immediately rises, meaning the fuse or breaker will be subject to the higher no-load Voltage rather than the lower loaded Voltage. If it is not capable of handling that higher Voltage there could be arcing.

    This is the biggest problem with 48 Volt systems: getting fuses/breakers/disconnects that can handle the >60 Volts involved.

    Is there a "battery post type" solution (or other) for 48v - just for the strings, not the main breaker.
    Off-Grid in Central Florida since 2005, Full-Time since June 2014 | 12 X Sovello 205w panels, 9 X ToPoint 220w panels, 36x ToPoint 225w panels (12,525 watts total) | Custom built single-axis ground mounts | Complete FP2 Outback System: 3 x FM80, 2 x VFX3648, X240 Transformer, FLEXnet-DC, Mate-3, Hub-10, FW500 AC/DC | 24 x Trojan L16RE-B Batteries 1110ah @ 48v | Honda EU7000is Generator and a pile of "other" Generators | Home-Made PVC solar hot water collector | Custom data logging software http://www.somewhatcrookedcamp.com/monitormate.html
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  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    #36
    Re: Question for MidNite CLassic 150 owners
    jcheil wrote: »
    Is there a "battery post type" solution (or other) for 48v - just for the strings, not the main breaker.

    Not that I know of. When you're dealing with a 48 Volt system you usually are dealing with somewhat different wiring methods as it would be a "whole house" sized system not the lower powered cabin or RV sort of thing.

    They work fine, you just have to spend the money and get the right equipment. Trying to make the wrong equipment do is tempting providence.
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  • verdigo
    verdigo Solar Expert Posts: 428 ✭✭
    #37
    Re: Question for MidNite CLassic 150 owners

    I just bought a 350 amp battery switch. I should have read a little closer. 32 volts
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