New here and need some advice

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Comments

  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,431 admin
    Re: New here and need some advice

    Regarding the solar array wiring:
    • 265 Watts * 1/30.7 volts = 8.63 Amps Imp

    Three panels in parallel:
    • 3*8.63a= 25.9 amps.

    Estimate Isc:
    • 25.9 amps * 1.25 = 33 amps -- Round up to 40 amp wiring/breakers

    Around 10-8 AWG wire based on current capacity (NEC).

    Send 40 amps 30 feet with 3% drop or:
    • 30.7*0.03 drop = 0.9 volt maximum allowed drop

    Using a generic voltage drop calculator:
    • 33 amps @ 30 feet => 6 AWG wire @ 0.9 volt drop

    Do the same thing with 3 panels in series:
    • Isc-array ~ 8.63 amps

    Or 14 AWG will be fine.

    Send 8.63 amps 30 feet with 3% drop or:
    • 3 panels in series * 30.7*0.03 drop = 2.8 volt maximum allowed drop

    Using a generic voltage drop calculator:
    • 8.63 amps @ 30 feet => 14 AWG wire @ 1.6 volt drop

    In theory, you could even go as light as 16 AWG wire (I would probably stick with 14 AWG minimum--Less losses and a bit more rugged wiring).

    You really do not need a fuse/breaker from the array to the MPPT charge controller with three panels in series.

    Some folks still like to put a (for example 15 amp) circuit breaker in the line near the charge controller PV input (or out at the array) so they can turn of the PV input power while working on the controller.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • solarpowernovice
    solarpowernovice Solar Expert Posts: 134 ✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    I think thats a good idea to use the 15 amp circuit breaker to cut power from panels, I will do that. Thats all for now thanks alot I'll keep you all up to date.
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,431 admin
    Re: New here and need some advice

    Note, fixed bad copy/paste sentence to:

    Send 8.63 amps 30 feet with 3% drop or:

    Note that the 15 amp breaker will only work with three panels in series--You need a 40 amp breaker if you have 3 panels in parallel (and much heavier cabling).

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice
    BB. wrote: »
    For example, I would suggest not sharing the Inverter cabling/breaker with the Charge controller. Both the 200 amp circuit is too large for the 45 amp charge controller (not safe if the charge controller shorts internally) and electrical noise/interference from the switching power supply and PWM/MPPT charge controllers can confuse each other. If you "home run" back to the battery bank, the batteries act like a large filter--reducing noise in the power system components.

    That is certainly good advice... However, if you buy a Midnite ePanel you will not be following that advice. The batteries connect to the ePanel through some very heavy cables, and within the ePanel is a battery bus. The inverter and charge controller connect to the battery bus through circuit breakers. I have NOT had any problems with the inverter and controller confusing each other.

    NOTE: The cables between the battery box and the ePanel are unfused. This meets code because the batteries are in a box and the battery cables to the ePanel are in conduit. The extensive battery bus in the ePanel is UNFUSED and I am afraid to work in the ePanel without first disconnecting the batteries (in the battery box). The next time I upgrade my system i will put in a battery disconnect switch between the battery box and the ePanel.

    btw, I am NOT trying to caution you away from using the ePanel... I highly recommend the ePanel.
    niel wrote: »
    is there a reason why you can't put the pvs in series and save yourself the cost of a combiner and several breakers, not to mention a savings on wire size?

    I would suggest that you stick to parallel for the solar panels. The MPPT controller will run cooler and more efficiently when down converting 30 volts (parallel panels) to 12 volts than down converting 90 volts (series panels) to 12 volts. If you do put the panels in parallel, you will (as Niel mentioned) need a combiner box with three circuit breakers.
    if I wired all 3 in series without a combiner box, would I need a fuse on the PV+ or just put the PV+ directly into the charge controller?

    You ALWAYS need a fuse or circuit breaker between the PV+ and the charge controller, regardless of whether the panels are in series or parallel. Such a circuit breaker is built into the ePanel.

    btw, if you do buy an ePanel, you might want to consider dispensing with the GFP device. Long story, but they cause more problems than they solve, and they are NOT required by code unless your panels are roof mounted. Even if they are roof mounted, many of the smartest folks around here do not use the GFP.

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • solarpowernovice
    solarpowernovice Solar Expert Posts: 134 ✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    Ok looks like paralleling the panels is the best way to go then. As for the E-Panel... what about a Mini DC Disconnect like these http://www.ecodirect.com/AC-DC-Enclosures-s/348.htm I could explain to midnite when i call them I dont want GFP, and I dont want the inverter/charge controller sharing the same breaker. Then I could ask them which Mini DC Disconnect they recommend and which breakers I need to put in it based off of my parts list. Sound good????
  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice
    I could explain to midnite when i call them I dont want GFP, and I dont want the inverter/charge controller sharing the same breaker.

    The inverter/charger and the charge controller do NOT share the same breaker in the ePanel (or anywhere else, I hope). The breakers all come off of a battery bus in the ePanel.

    Regarding the GFP, if you have building codes and inspections and have a rooftop array then you may be required to install the ill-conceived GFP. The GFP serves as a bond between battery/PV negative and ground. When the GFP trips, the bond is broken and makes the entire system a fire and electrocution hazard. My point is that if you leave out the GFP you need to put in a jumper wire to serve as bond between DC negative and ground.

    btw, rather than explaining to midnite what you want, you might consider explaining to a midnite dealer (such as NAWS) what you want. As far as I know (or think I know), Midnite does not undercut its dealers, but the dealers do not always reciprocate :-)

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • solarpowernovice
    solarpowernovice Solar Expert Posts: 134 ✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    I'll be calling NAWS tomorrow and hopefully they can tell me what I need to buy to wire all the parts I am planning on ordering. If so i definitely will be ordering from them.
  • westbranch
    westbranch Solar Expert Posts: 5,183 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    Have a look at page 18 of this E-panel document, and some of the other wiring diagrams, and you will see just what it may look like.

    http://www.midnitesolar.com/pdfs/epanelManual.pdf
     
    KID #51B  4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
    CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM 
    Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
    2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
    Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
    West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
  • solarpowernovice
    solarpowernovice Solar Expert Posts: 134 ✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    Hello again. I got a quote for all the parts I will need to make my system, and it was a bit too expensive. So I scaled back to a 2 panel mount and 2 panels @ 285 watts a piece to give me 570 watts. Seeing how it is just a weekend cabin for now this should be sufficient, and the Midnite Classic 150 will give me the ability to upgrade to 1 more panel if needed later on down the road(which can mount on the roof). All of the other parts on my list still stand... I just changed from 3 panels to 2. The pole mount will be 30 feet away from the four 225AH 6v batteries @ 12volts. Should I series these 2 panels and save money on wiring and a combiner box/fuses, or would paralleling them be better? If parallel is better will i need a combiner box to parallel 2 panels?

    Here are the panels
    LG 285 Watt Mono Solar Panel - NeoN

    Voltage Maximum Power 31.4
    Current Maximum Power 9.07
    Voltage Open Circuit 39.0
    Current Short Circuit 9.61
  • westbranch
    westbranch Solar Expert Posts: 5,183 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    you would have to run the loss/ less loss numbers for what ever size wire you will use. have to compare to CC loss of down converting from 24v to 12 v.
    I bet there is little difference assuming AWG #10 wire used.
    I would go with 24 v to CC as there is no combiner box needed but you do want a CB to use as disconnect to the CC. This way is a bit simpler.
    You can use a Square D QO box and breaker as they are DC rated to 48V. It could also be used as a combiner box.
     
    KID #51B  4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
    CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM 
    Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
    2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
    Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
    West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
  • solarpowernovice
    solarpowernovice Solar Expert Posts: 134 ✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    ok if I understand correctly either way i wire the panels #10 awg wire will be fine. but when you said this
    westbranch wrote: »
    I would go with 24 v to CC as there is no combiner box needed but you do want a CB to use as disconnect to the CC. This way is a bit simpler.
    You can use a Square D QO box and breaker as they are DC rated to 48V. It could also be used as a combiner box.
    Do you mean I should use MC4 Y connectors to parallel the 2 panels to a 30 amp circuit breaker in the square d box like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-IN-BOX-QO-SQUARE-D-100-AMP-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-PANEL-BOX-6-SPACES-/390686647306 therefore the 2 panels VMP remains 31.4 and the amps double to 18.14. Are you saying this is the best way to wire them at 30 feet? And I can also put the 100 amp breaker in this combiner box for the midnite classic 150 charge controller output correct? If so I will still need a 250 Amp 125VDC Breaker for the batteries to inverter.. where would this go?
  • westbranch
    westbranch Solar Expert Posts: 5,183 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    OK try again.
    I mistyped the line and should have typed 48 volt to 12 volt as this will have a greater down conversion loss than 24v to 12V

    24 volt to CC
    2 parallel panels, use the Sq D box as a combiner, needs 2 CB's, therefore 2 slots used, each is a disconnect for that PV panel.
    This (SQ 'D" box and breakers) will NOT work for 2 or more panels in series as the voltage will be above the 48V limit

    My comment was meant to show there is another option, at less than 48V, to make a combiner and it avoids buying MC4 'Y' s, and give you a PV disconnect too...

    most MC4 connectors are made with #10 AWG wire, as are the wires on most (new) PV panels.

    Yes, you could use the box for the 100 amp battery breaker but I would use a breaker/fuse that can be attached as close as possible to the battery for safety's sake... you don't want to involve any more in the meltdown of a wire from the battery than you have to. In my small system I have used fuses and these CB's http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-100-AMP-CAR-AUDIO-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-FUSE-WITH-RESET-IMC-Audo-12-Volt-/110864751713
     
    KID #51B  4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
    CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM 
    Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
    2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
    Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
    West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice
    Should I series these 2 panels and save money on wiring and a combiner box/fuses, or would paralleling them be better? If parallel is better will i need a combiner box to parallel 2 panels?
    <snip>
    Voltage Maximum Power 31.4
    Current Maximum Power 9.07
    Voltage Open Circuit 39.0
    Current Short Circuit 9.61
    westbranch wrote: »
    you would have to run the loss/ less loss numbers for what ever size wire you will use. have to compare to CC loss of down converting from 24v to 12 v.
    I bet there is little difference assuming AWG #10 wire used.
    ok if I understand correctly either way i wire the panels #10 awg wire will be fine.

    No! #10 cable is NOT fine. If your 2 panels are in parallel, you will suffer a 3.5% voltage drop across 30 ft of #10. That represents 20 watts of power dissipated in the cable. If you put the two panels in series, your voltage drop and power loss in the cable are reduced to a reasonable number, but your charge controller will be less efficient. The net result is that the power is dissipated in the controller rather than the cable.

    Furthermore, you indicated a desire to plan for more panels. You will also need larger cables for that.

    For 2 panels in parallel, #8 cable will give you 2.2% voltage drop
    For 2 panels in parallel, #6 cable will give you 0.44% voltage drop

    For 3 panels in parallel, #6 cable will give you 2.1% voltage drop
    For 3 panels in parallel, #4 cable will give you 1.3% voltage drop

    I have done these calculations for a 30 ft cable length. (you wrote that the panels were 30 ft from the batteries). Often the actual cable length is 15 ft longer than the distance between the panels and the batteries, in which case you need heavier cable than I indicated above.

    Perhaps you are seeing the disadvantage of 12 volt systems... its very expensive to move the power any distance.

    Regarding the combiner box, you should have one even if you have only one panel... it makes a good spot to put your lightning arrester and your PV disconnect. It is very useful to flip a breaker at the combiner box and de-energize the cable to the controller. Otherwise you will have to throw a heavy blanket over the panels to disconnect them. If you are working on your controller and the wind blows the blanket off the panels, you could suffer a DC electrocution. Much better to flip a breaker and be safe.

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • solarpowernovice
    solarpowernovice Solar Expert Posts: 134 ✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    I see what you are saying now. I would need two 75 foot #6 MC4 extender cables to give me 37 feet of wire run to work with (after being cut in half). Then I would need 2 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-by-Schneider-Electric-QO-15-Amp-Single-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-QO115CP/100061177#.Umuf21N-_XQ for the PV+ of each panel, and connect the 2 negatives to the bus bar of the Square D QO box. Now the breaker for the CC output...
    Would the $8 12V 100 AMP CAR AUDIO CIRCUIT BREAKER FUSE on ebay you sent me be suitable for outdoor use (in the battery box outside)? I would also need a 250 amp breaker in the battery box between the inverter and batteries (close to the batteries too) right? Because they also have a 250 amp version of that breaker on ebay for $9.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/250-AMP-12V-DC-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-REPLACE-FUSE-250A-12VDC-FAST-FREE-USA-SHIPPING-/221131644274?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337c791d72&vxp=mtr my battery/inverter cable size has to be #2/0 gauge


    It looks like I should just put the panels on the roof (it faces south and has a 15% angle) and cut the trees down infront of it to save money on wiring and potential theft. Plus i can keep the wire run under 25 feet easily. With this in mind... would #8 AWG be sufficient? I dont know what I'm doing wrong on the voltage drop calculator :(
  • mryimmers
    mryimmers Solar Expert Posts: 117 ✭✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    "A 1/10th HorsePower A/C transfer pump that takes 160 watts while running (170 at startup) on the kill a watt meter. But I think I may need to buy a 12 volt pump??? I need the pump to get the water down a very low slope (but it is down hill all the way) from a 5 foot deep cistern about 50 feet down hill to my "cabin"."

    Would you be able to just siphon water down the hill?
    510 watt pv, TS-MPPT 60, Exeltech XP1100, XP600 & XP250 @ 24V, 4x Trojan 105RE, Trimetric 2030, Yamaha EF2400i gen.
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,431 admin
    Re: New here and need some advice

    AC pumps are usually less expensive to purchase than their DC versions.

    You could siphon (assuming you don't have more than a few feet of lift, probably 20 feet maximum lift)... But it is probably not worth that. Too easy to "break" the vacuum siphon and make you have to restart it.

    Can you punch a hole below the minimum water level in the tank instead (no siphon)?

    Also, would you still need the pump for enough pressure at the point of use?

    The pump itself--Your maximum lift (on pumps that can "lift" water) is around 20'... But that can cause you problems over time. From issues of slight air leaks in joints, to a filter/screen that reduces water flow/pressure--That can cause short pump life (cavitation... Small bubbles created by the vacuum draw of the pump that collapse and cause errosion of pumping surfaces).

    You can get submerged pumps--But you do have to make sure they are well build pumps/solid sealing against water leaks through electrical wiring.

    Which is better (lift vs submerged)--Submerged would probably be more reliable (and more expensive). Your best bet would be to punch a hole in the tank and connect the pump below the water line (most reliable, least costs). But, you have to make sure the pump does not get flooded (if pump is in a pit--drain and/or water leak alarm). And if there is a leak/failure in the plumbing, that you don't get a flood (basement of home, erosion of soil from water leak, etc.).

    And if you have any distance (more than a few 10's of feet--The cost of copper to get sufficient current to the 12 volt DC pump vs AC power (if you already have the AC inverter), can be a huge issue.

    Try a couple different paper designs and see what works best for you.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • solarpowernovice
    solarpowernovice Solar Expert Posts: 134 ✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    I hooked my generator up to the 1/10th HP pump today to water some grass seed I planted infront of the cabin, and the water pressure was just fine all the way to the cabin. I am calling about 3 265 watt BenQ AUO panels tomorrow with a roof mount(because I dont know what I need) and I will probably be ordering this week... then I can just get the square D QO load center and all of the other components I will need to make this all happen.

    Could someone please tell me if these breakers would work with the solar system I'm making? http://www.ebay.com/itm/250-AMP-12V-DC-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-REPLACE-FUSE-250A-12VDC-FAST-FREE-USA-SHIPPING-/221131644274?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337c791d72&vxp=mtr I need this 250 amp breaker for the batteries to inverter and http://www.ebay.com/itm/100A-12V-DC-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-REPLACE-CAR-FUSE-100-AMP-12VDC-CAR-AUTOMOTIVE-WIRING-/350887079342?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Fuses_Fuse_Holders&hash=item51b27fedae this one for the charge controller to batteries. I was told they both need to be in the battery box outside as close to the batteries as possible. The panels will be in parallel to a Square D QO load center.
  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice
    Could someone please tell me if these breakers would work with the solar system I'm making?

    These breakers are not listed for use in houses. In a house, those breakers are protecting wires that are in conduit. How would you use those breakers with cable that is in conduit or an electrical panel? When you wire a house in a way that violates code, your insurance company may decline to pay claims on your house and may decline to cover your liability for injuries to others.
    I was told they both need to be in the battery box outside as close to the batteries as possible.

    It is good for them to be close to the battery, but I would not put them inside the battery box. When you follow code, your batteries are in a box and the cables to the inverter travel in conduit to an electrical panel where the various circuit breakers may reside.

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • solarpowernovice
    solarpowernovice Solar Expert Posts: 134 ✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    Well then the inverter cable will need to be 6 to 8 feet from the battery box to the E-Panel's breaker inside. Will this breaker be too far away from the batteries? I've been assured by Samlex's tech support that up to 8 feet in #2/0 gauge wire is fine for a 1500 watt inverter
  • westbranch
    westbranch Solar Expert Posts: 5,183 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    The question needs to be asked of the tech. department, is that 8 feet the one way distance to the inverter or 2 way distance? ie are both wires included in the 8 feet of 2/0with that gauge of wire?
     
    KID #51B  4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
    CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM 
    Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
    2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
    Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
    West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice
    Well then the inverter cable will need to be 6 to 8 feet from the battery box to the E-Panel's breaker inside. Will this breaker be too far away from the batteries? I've been assured by Samlex's tech support that up to 8 feet in #2/0 gauge wire is fine for a 1500 watt inverter

    if a short occurs on those wires this will not pop the breaker which is farther downstream. do note that the wire, if shorted with full battery power, will be handling more amps than the wire is rated for. what they indicated was that #00 is fine while operating properly with the normal draws presented by the inverter.
  • solarpowernovice
    solarpowernovice Solar Expert Posts: 134 ✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    Today I called a website about a shipping quote for 3 255 watt panels for a 12 volt off grid system. The guy who I talked to said they have a 4 panel minimum and then proceeded to tell me that 24 volt panels arent what I would need to charge a 12 volt battery even with an MPPT CC, and that I should get 4+ 12 volt panels instead... I did not even think to tell him they'd be wired in parallel not series. I just want to make sure THREE 245 to 255 watt panels will work just as good or better for a 12 volt system (seeing its cheaper this way). I'd like to keep it 12 volt so i wont have to replace my generator, and the 12v IOTA battery controllers are much cheaper than the 24v version, plus they come in 90 amps and the 24 volt doesn't.

    I was told on another forum that I'd get more power for less money with 2 250 watt panels than 4 12 volt panels, and also CARIBOOT said this earlier in this thread: "What you could expect from two 250 Watt panels and an MPPT controller is enough power to recharge 320 Amp hours @ 12 Volts." It seems like 2 250 watt panels would be better than 4 100 watt panels, which costs more. Which means I should be able to buy 3 250 watt panels for much less than 6+ 12volt panels would cost, and be able to charge the 12v 450AH bank. Is this guy just trying to get me to order from him? If someone can just give me a YES 3 250 watt panels will charge 450AH 12v battery bank (just as well or better than 12v panels) I'm ready to order my panels/components.
  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    the higher wattage pvs into an mppt cc would work just fine, but you must watch the wattage used in conjunction with the rating of the mppt cc. for instance a 45a ms tristar mppt would handle 45a x 12v = 540w. good for 2 of those pvs, but not 3. the higher wattage pvs are cheaper and more efficient, but the mppt cc is more costly so it is something one must put down on paper to see the differences in costs. odds are you'll want to go the higher wattage and mppt cc.
  • solarpowernovice
    solarpowernovice Solar Expert Posts: 134 ✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    Thank you very much niel. I will be buying the midnite classic 150 it says 96amps @ 12 volts, so 750 is well within the boundaries :D
  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    good choice as you will be able to expand your pvs to 4 if you get the need without having to buy another cc.
  • solarpowernovice
    solarpowernovice Solar Expert Posts: 134 ✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    I ordered all the parts for my system except for the solar panels, the panel mounts, and the batteries. I plan on buying the rest when spring comes. Today i talked to my neighbor where my off grid system will be, and he told me theres been alot of theft in the area recently... Now i am really concerned about theft and need some advice on what I can do to prevent it. Would a tall pole mount or roof mounts be the best? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: New here and need some advice

    out of reach is a good idea. naws had security hardware one could use, but i can't seem to locate it on the site off hand. security cameras with a dvr is also a good thing as well as a working burglar alarm. a determined thief will get it if he truly wants it, but anything to make it difficult for him and less likely to get away with it is a plus.