Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

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  • waynefromnscanadawaynefromnscanada Posts: 3,009Solar Expert ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew
    85 Watt panels are not the best bargain in the world. If you're spending $4,000 on equipment, go for something with a better value per Watt. Have a look at what big (over 100 Watt) panels go for here: http://www.solar-electric.com/hiposopa.html

    You're spending serious money; it's time to get serious equipment, right? :D

    Totally agree! Look at watts per dollar and you'll find bigger panels a much better deal, and with more panels, comes the demand for proper charge controllers etc.
  • RandomJoeRandomJoe Posts: 472Solar Expert ✭✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    Oh dear, and another solar addict is born... :D

    I agree on the larger panels, I started out with 135W panels because they were the largest that could ship UPS. I bought my first few one or two at a time, so that was convenient. The last batch I bought (doubling my array size) I went with 185W as they were lowest $/watt from NAWS. Freight for the panels really isn't all that bad, think it was actually cheaper than UPS! (What KILLED me on freight was shipping 12 foot rails to mount them on. OUCH! Trucking companies don't like long things, even if they're lightweight!)

    Will your new charge controller do other voltages than 12V? If so, you may wish to consider where you want to go from here. I started out much as you are, 12V system with a 1500W inverter. My reason for 12V at first was that I am a ham radio operator and could run the ham bench off the battery bank directly. Problem is, I soon realized I wanted to run more loads and the inverter's current draw got kinda scary at 12V! Also, while 12V lighting and other accessories are readily available, they tend to be pricier - or lesser quality - than standard AC versions.

    In the end I went 48V, and run everything off the inverter. (I do still have a small 12V system - one panel, one battery - for the ham bench.) This reduced the battery current, voltage drop was less of an issue, and I got (I think) much higher quality components. The battery bank isn't huge, just a single string of eight "golf cart" batteries, but it runs my normal loads great and in a pinch I can even fire up the (gas) furnace if needed.

    My system is primarily a backup system as well, although starting in June it gets a new function. The electric company offered time-of-use metering to me, which means my off-peak kWh rates are half normal. Peak rates are high, but I'll just pull the whole house off-grid to the solar system for 5 hours (2-7PM)! :) Can't run the AC on that, but my house can coast that long... It's fun finding new uses for this stuff!

    Oh, and my order of importance for power-outage loads: lights, computers, refrigerator! :D (Hey, the fridge can handle itself for a few hours, long as I'm not rummaging in it too much! ;) )
  • Earnest TilleyEarnest Tilley Posts: 56Solar Expert ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    Well im actually getting the 85 watt panels for $2 a watt after shipping and handling 168 actually but i did talk to my wife and she said she would kill me if i took that much out of the bank and didn't get the trampoline and go-cart that ive been promising the kids for almost a year now so it looks like those $2 panels are going to turn into $2.5 or alot closer to $3.5 a panel ;( but i will probably just say screw it and get the kids what they want and just wait on the panels im a procrastinator always putting off till tomorrow what i really should do today. Mama don't ask for much but when she asks i make for sure it happens ;)
  • Earnest TilleyEarnest Tilley Posts: 56Solar Expert ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    UPDATE!!! I ordered a xantrac c60 cost me $159 with shipping. I got the 4k out of the bank and i have just a little over $1500 left after the wife took her cut ;) that leaves me enough to get 8 85 watt 12v panels which will give me 10 total for 850watt will that be ok with the 2 marine batteries? Or should i just get maby 4 panels and get a different batteries type? I really would like to get as many panels as i can so i can get over 600 watt of power, my goal starting out was to run a window unit just on solar panels the window unit pulls 1000w on start up and quickly jumps down to 578 watts on high ac. Will 850 watts of solar even run a window unit i have that 3000/1500 inverter and that xantrac charge controller will be here next week.
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Posts: 17,615Banned ✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    It's déjà vu all over again. :roll:

    Someone wants to run an A/C unit off solar. They want to use a 12 Volt system. They buy equipment because it's "a good price". They end up disappointed. Didn't we just see this show? :p

    It looks to me like your 85 Watt panels are costing over $2 per Watt. That's no bargain.

    That A/C unit will draw roughly 50 Amps from 12 Volts. A couple of RV/Marine batteries will be dead in a couple of hours.

    In good sun 850 Watts of panel would just about stay ahead of the load, leaving almost no power for recharging.

    You'll be running 12 Volt nominal everywhere, which means high current and significant Voltage drop necessitating large wires that probably still will lose >3% power between panels and controller.

    It will work, but it really will not work well. If the A/C needs to run long, you'll be out of luck. Everything will be at limits trying to supply the power, and that shortens lifespan (especially batteries).

    Let's look at it from the load perspective. You want to supply 580 Watts for how long? Six hours per day average? Four? Let's use the minimum number: 4 * 580 Watts = 2320 Watt hours. In terms of panels only that is an 1160 Watt array (including losses). The other thing is you'd need enough battery capacity to store it up and have it ready for use. On 12 Volts (not recommended because of current concerns) that would be 200 Amp hours usable power, or at least a 400 Amp hour battery bank. That's for four hours of A/C. Your proposed system doesn't come close to these numbers.

    We really hate to see people throw their money away, and it rather appears that this is what you're doing with this set-up.
  • Earnest TilleyEarnest Tilley Posts: 56Solar Expert ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    ok so if i where to say buy 4 more batteries and have 15 panels would that do it?
    Solar Panel 85 Watt 12 Volt Polycrystalline Silicon PV
    x 4 $168.99 TOTAL $675.96
    going to get 4 more batteries tomorrow which will give me a total of 6 then 4 more panels the next day then next week ill get the other 4 which will give 14 panels for a grand total of 1190 watts with 6 batteries at a total of 564 amp hrs will this work?
  • nsaspooknsaspook Posts: 396Solar Expert ✭✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew
    ok so if i where to say buy 4 more batteries and have 15 panels would that do it?

    Even if you install more panels and batteries you're pretty close to the limit of a practical (1000W+) 12vdc system unless you run very large (short) cables , interconnects and traction (Golf Cart type) batteries that can take the heavy charge/discharge cycles the system will create. Configure your system for at least 24 volts even if it means spending money on a new inverter if you want something that has any real value over the long term.
  • Earnest TilleyEarnest Tilley Posts: 56Solar Expert ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    sounds good is there any problem with stringing the 85 watt panels 2 at a time and stringing my batteries later to give me a 24v system the xantrac charge controller i ordered will do 12 or 24 volt and im sure ill want/need another inverter later anyway. And is there any problems with buying different panels that are 24v with another charge controller and adding that to my system after i get it to 24v?
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Posts: 17,615Banned ✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    The missing info here is: how long do you want to be able to run that A/C unit?
    With the 564 Amp hours you'd have approximately 5.5 hours of run time.

    Here's another problem: you're piling up panels like crazy. If you try to put 14 panels in parallel ... absolute nightmare for wiring. These would be slightly less than 5 Amps each, and you'd be looking at just under 70 Amps of total current with 14 panels. The 60 Amp controller will "choke off" the last 10 Amps, so there's two panels wasted.

    If you're going to go this route, the first change you must make is to up the system Voltage from 12 to 24. That will reduce the current all around. Then you should drop the 12 Volt RV/Marine batteries in favour of some real deep cycle 6 Volts all wired in series. With that 1190 Watt array you could manage about 350 Amp hours @ 24 Volts (using the C60 you apparently already bought). That would be enough for up to about 3780 Watt hours AC; still only about 6.5 hours of run time, but you might get some "bonus" hours from load-shifting (being able to run the A/C "directly" from the panels once the batteries are recharged).

    In all honesty I would forget about buying more 85 Watt panels @ ($169/85) $2 per Watt. And for the size of array you're looking at, a PWM type controller (as in the C60) doesn't make sense either. At that many Watts there is a clear advantage to the MPPT controllers, even though they are more money.

    You can get it to work your way, it's just a matter of how well and for how long. Only my opinion but I think you'd soon be disappointed with the results.
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Posts: 17,615Banned ✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew
    sounds good is there any problem with stringing the 85 watt panels 2 at a time and stringing my batteries later to give me a 24v system the xantrac charge controller i ordered will do 12 or 24 volt and im sure ill want/need another inverter later anyway. And is there any problems with buying different panels that are 24v with another charge controller and adding that to my system after i get it to 24v?

    (Last two posts appear while I was writing that missive.)

    Yes; this is exactly what you should do: up the system Voltage!
    You can connect the "12 Volt" panels two in series for 24 Volts. No worries there.
    There is no problem running multiple charge controllers to one battery bank. They may not always agree, but they will function and ultimately charge the batteries.
  • ywhicywhic Posts: 612Solar Expert ✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    Cariboo is correct anything over the 60 amp limit of the C60 will be CUT OUT and lost..

    I have the MorningStar TS-45 (45 amp) PWM controller and I know I can get 6 of my 130w (12v) 7.39 rated panels in 1 parallel... (or 2 sets of the same six in series 24v).. 780w one way max or 1560 w the other way with the SAME controller.. both ways its 44.34 AMPs max going into that controller..

    Get your panels.. lets say 12 of them.. then just do them in series of 2 per string.. then series wire your 12v batteries to get the 24v and your done.. I think 600-800ah of battery would be good for your A/C usage.. and using 6v GC batteries would last you longer..
  • Earnest TilleyEarnest Tilley Posts: 56Solar Expert ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    Im so glad i talked to you guys before i got all the panels i did already order 6 of those which will put me at 8. I am going to order another charge controller later you said mttp or something ill look it up and see what that is and what kind of price im looking at. You guys are so great to help people out like you do i really appreciate all your help, I usually just do it myself and make my mistakes and learn from them but when your talking about thousands of dollars its nice to have people kind enough to walk you through it. Like most of my other hobbies I sink alot of money into it year after year and never get anywhere. But with solar it seems like there's light at the end of the tunnel ;) So my next big question is whats the biggest bang for my buck on 24v solar panels. And whats the deal with golf cart batteries being so much better the golf cart we have at work has 6 in it and it dont last half a shift 5 hrs it always needs recharging and they just replaced them not 3 months ago. the batteries i got dont last long either but they charge REALLY quick. I plan on getting a wend turbine in a few months i seen a 400 watt one for 600 bucks online that seems like a good addition to what i got now only its 24v which i will be switching to pretty quick. O i forgot to mention i have almost 100ft of 00 wire. The kind that you weld with, negative grounding wire for welding small stranded about 1' thick.
  • waynefromnscanadawaynefromnscanada Posts: 3,009Solar Expert ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew
    And whats the deal with golf cart batteries being so much better the golf cart we have at work has 6 in it and it dont last half a shift 5 hrs it always needs recharging and they just replaced them not 3 months ago. the batteries i got dont last long either but they charge REALLY quick. I plan on getting a wend turbine in a few months i seen a 400 watt one for 600 bucks online that seems like a good addition to what i got now

    Three items I can comment on, something to think about..
    1) Extra panels delivering over the max power the MPPT controller can handle will indeed be "lost" on bright sunny days is very true. On the other hand, on cloudy days, you'll have more power available from those extra panels. As long as it's not heavy overcast, in which case there will be very little output anyway.
    2) Those golf cart batteries you mention have extremely likely been MURDERED by abuse, as in over discharged repeatedly, not properly recharged and otherwise not looked after. The batteries you speak of which now "charge really quick" have been ruined either before you got them, or by their present users and those responsible for looking after them.
    3) Finally, spending $600 on a 400 watt wind turbine - - Personal experience by myself and many others - - don't go there. Their power outputs are basically without exception, infamous for hugely inflated specs to the point of fraud. Anything to close a deal, anything to get your money. You'll find that yes indeed, it may be a beautiful experience to lay on your back in the grass and watch "the wheels go round" against a clear blue sky, but there will be no usable power produced outside times of sever wind storms, and even then, the watt hours produced will be far below your expectations. Consider how many days each year you have sever wind storms descend on your property. Just a heads up. You'd be far, far ahead to spend that $600.00 on more panels, or a good controller for more panels to be added later, or some combination of both.
    With solar, very few will be the days when you don't get at least SOME usable power, while with the small wind turbines, very few and far between, will be the days it will deliver ANY useful power at all.
    Just a heads up. So many of us have been there and have learned the hard way.
  • Earnest TilleyEarnest Tilley Posts: 56Solar Expert ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    ok napa i went to napa today with all intent to get 4 more rv/home deep cycle batteries when the guy at the counter explained to me that for the price and warranty i would get out of a golf cart battery i could get the rv/home battery x3 the golf cart batteries had a year warranty on them yes they where 220 amp hour batteries but the rv/home batteries that i got are 140 amp hour batteries with a 3 year warranty so i got 2 of those made by the same people that made my other rv/home batteries same volts same specs just more amp hours and alot heaver ie the golf cart batteries where 300 bucks and the rv/home batteries where 109 and another 12 for the core charge since i had no replacement to give them. Someone please explain why im getting a better deal going with a golf cart battery?
  • Blackcherry04Blackcherry04 Posts: 2,490Solar Expert ✭✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    You can find Golf Cart Batteries for $80-$90 each for a 220 amp GC-2 at the Discounters. Most will take a 600-700 recharge cycles to 50% dod. If properly cared for they will last 5-7 years in the 30 %-40 % dod range.

    That said if NAPA will give you a Free Replacement for 3 years and you get the AMP's you require, the RV batteries are a better deal.

    Read the fine print and hope they will honor it when it's time.
  • ywhicywhic Posts: 612Solar Expert ✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew
    ok napa i went to napa today with all intent to get 4 more rv/home deep cycle batteries when the guy at the counter explained to me that for the price and warranty i would get out of a golf cart battery i could get the rv/home battery x3 the golf cart batteries had a year warranty on them yes they where 220 amp hour batteries but the rv/home batteries that i got are 140 amp hour batteries with a 3 year warranty so i got 2 of those made by the same people that made my other rv/home batteries same volts same specs just more amp hours and alot heaver ie the golf cart batteries where 300 bucks and the rv/home batteries where 109 and another 12 for the core charge since i had no replacement to give them. Someone please explain why im getting a better deal going with a golf cart battery?

    Whats the NAPA part number on the 2 batteries that you got 2 of ??
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Posts: 17,615Banned ✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    Multiply the Amp hour capacity of the battery times the system Voltage to get the Watt hour capacity. Divide the price for the batteries needed by this number and see what the cost is per Watt hour. That's how you determine if it's a bargain or not.

    Of course if the capacity of the battery doesn't meet your minimum system needs it isn't a bargain because it won't work.
  • ywhicywhic Posts: 612Solar Expert ✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    How would I get the AH capacity from these numbers NAPA 7237/7236 Commercial $114??

    Battery BCI # : BCI #31P
    Battery Cold Cranking Amps @ 0 Degrees F : 950
    Battery Cranking Amps @ 32 Degrees F : 1,190
    Battery Height : 9 7/16"
    Battery Length : 13"
    Battery Load Test Amps : 475
    Battery Posts Type : Top Mount Post
    Battery Reserve Capacity (Minutes) : 195
    Battery Voltage : 12 Volt
    Battery Weight : 60 lbs
    Battery Width : 6 13/16"

    Of course this Marine/DC battery has better numbers though I am not sure of the AH on this.. $224..

    Battery Application : Marine
    Battery BCI # : 4DM
    Battery Cold Cranking Amps @ 0 Degrees F : 1314
    Battery Cranking Amps @ 32 Degrees F : 1645
    Battery Height : 9 13/16"
    Battery Length : 20 3/4"
    Battery Load Test Amps : 657
    Battery Posts Type : Top Mount
    Battery Reserve Capacity (Minutes) : 390
    Battery Weight : 116.8
  • Blackcherry04Blackcherry04 Posts: 2,490Solar Expert ✭✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    Choosing a Battery Bank is not only about charging and amp hours you have consider how you discharge them and the potential discharge rate. The Dip and Recovery ( Coup de Fouet ) of the voltage of the batteries say starting a air conditioner and Inverter capabilities and the voltage supplied to it. Even if the battery cables are sufficient size the batteries ability to give up the stored energy is very important. The GC-2's kind of fall in the middle and have proved to be a good balance between cost and service.
  • ywhicywhic Posts: 612Solar Expert ✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    Nevermind I found a basic conversion formula..

    Using the reserve capacity number: 390.. divide by 60 and then multiply by 25.. = 162.5 AH capacity.. hopefully this helps other.s..

    So 2 of the NAPA 6v 8144 DC batteries at 186ah for $272 (for 2) for a 12v system, would NOT be better then just 1 of the NAPA 12v 8274 DC battery $260 with 162AH.. $.623/ah (8274) vs $.683/ah (8144)..

    Of course the 116 lbs vs 60 may be harder to lug around..
  • Earnest TilleyEarnest Tilley Posts: 56Solar Expert ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    ok ive heard that your not suppose to mix batteries so should i take the batteries back to napa and try to get my money back and get golf cart batteries or can i just keep them and add the golf cart batteries to my bank maby on one end. I made a combiner box for my solar panels and would like to know if it ok to do it this way i superglue the bus bars to a box the long one for + and the short one for - and the realy small one for the earth ground.Attachment not found.Attachment not found.
    i hope i put those pictures in right one was blurry i think so i uploaded both.

    I cut a 2" hole in the back of the battery box and im going to cut a 2" hole in the combiner box to run the wires through. its about 1 1/2 feet to my charge controller and about 2' from my batteries.

    I also bought a ac disconnect box it has 2 60 amp fuses in it, pull disconnect. I talked to a few maintenance men at work and they said i could put that between the inverter and my batteries and it will work as a good fuse even though it is a 240v 60 amp fuse they said the fuse dont care about the voltage it only sees the amps being pulled though it and will blow if it gets above 60 amps.
  • Blackcherry04Blackcherry04 Posts: 2,490Solar Expert ✭✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    The question is for HOW LONG. Any new battery the day you put it in service should give you the rated amps. Come back two years later and test it again.

    If you just did the weight comparison, most GC2's are 65-70 lbs @ 6v, so say 135 lbs @ 12 volts. Some are lead/calcium and some lead/antimony.

    I wouldn't try to start a Bull Dozer with a Volkswagen Battery even though they both 12 V batteries.
  • vtmapsvtmaps Posts: 3,738Solar Expert ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew
    I made a combiner box for my solar panels and would like to know if it ok to do it this way i superglue the bus bars to a box the long one for + and the short one for - and the realy small one for the earth ground.
    <snip>
    I also bought a ac disconnect box it has 2 60 amp fuses in it, pull disconnect. I talked to a few maintenance men at work and they said i could put that between the inverter and my batteries and it will work as a good fuse even though it is a 240v 60 amp fuse they said the fuse dont care about the voltage it only sees the amps being pulled though it and will blow if it gets above 60 amps.


    OMG! please stop what you are doing. It is so unsafe. You will likely start an electrical fire. I don't know where to begin telling you what's wrong with what you are doing. Your insurance company will not pay claims for the inevitable fire because you have so many serious violations of safety codes.
    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Posts: 17,615Banned ✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    What vtmaps said!

    Those guys at work must be janitors. There is a big difference between interrupting AC current and interrupting DC current.
    Even so 60 Amps would only handle: 720 Watts on 12 Volt, 1440 on 24 Volt, 2880 on 48. So how small is your inverter?

    Superglue? Never. Never. Never.
  • Earnest TilleyEarnest Tilley Posts: 56Solar Expert ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    the combiner box is a plastic outdoor box water proof, the inverter is 1500/3000, I checked my voltage on the batteries a few min ago i went and bought my own multimeter and its saying its floating at 13.49 volts, my charge controller will only do 10 amps but im reading 14 coming though when charging and im reading 18.7 volts coming from each panel and there only rated for 17.
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Posts: 17,615Banned ✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    A 1500 Watt inverter on 12 Volts will draw about 125 Amps at maximum load. More as the Voltage goes down and/or the current goes up (the 3000 Watts surge rating). The manual for it probably recommends a 200 Amp fuse.

    13.49 Volts when in Float stage is perfectly normal. So is 14+ Volts when charging (Absorb stage).

    The panel Voltage isn't really relevant. The Vmp may be 17 or 17.5 but as charge conditions change so will the panel Voltage. It can be anywhere up to Voc (probably about 22 Volts) and even with a PWM type controller you will see these differences as the controller switches on/off rapidly to maintain battery Voltage at the proper set point. This rapid shifting of the load on and off will result in an apparent increase in panel Voltage.

    Nothing to worry about there.
  • Earnest TilleyEarnest Tilley Posts: 56Solar Expert ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    Yes the maintenance men did tell me that i could pull a whole lot of watts through the fuse and it would not blow but if it ever got over 60 amps that the fuse would blow, where they wrong? How should i put the bus bars in that box i dont want to screw them down because its a outdoor box and the screws will go though the other side of the box and get wet. the other thing i wanted to know is how do people hook their inverters to their batteries on each end of the bank or on one end and charge the other end? there all connected together with that welding ground cable thats about an inch thick ( i caught H E double hockey sticks getting that into a top post connecter ;( )
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Posts: 17,615Banned ✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    Fuses have ratings for maximum current, maximum Voltage, and current type (AC and/or DC). Those 60 Amp fuses are likely rated for 60 Amps 240 Volta AC. Whereas that is a lot of Watts (14,400) that does not mean they will function properly on DC current. Even if they would in the application, they would not pass inspection. Since your inverter can easily draw over 60 Amps it is irrelevant; they are undersized for current.

    You have a problem with your homemade combiner box in that you don't want to put holes in it and possibly let water in. At the same time gluing the bus bars down probably won't work even with epoxy. And if they come loose once installed they can short out. That would be an adventure you don't want to have. You'll hate this advice but ... rethink the combiner box.

    Here's the link to the Smart Gauge battery wiring diagrams which have become default around here: http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html

    You have to interpret it as to your own particular battery set-up. What you want to avoid is method #1, where the batteries are all "laddered" in parallel with the inverter & controller on one end.

    Yes, the big wire isn't much fun to work with. That's another reason for going up in Voltage when you need to go up in power: you get to use smaller, more manageable wire sizes.
  • Earnest TilleyEarnest Tilley Posts: 56Solar Expert ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    ok i got ya thanks i will use a different box for + and another for the - i see what your talking about i do have holes in the box but i bought some rubber gasket rings and hose clamps for making them water tight do you think thats a good idea 1 box for + and one for - or should i try something else? What should i do with that fuse box just throw it out or see if i cant find a 12v fuse that will go in it its a realy big fuse 3" long one on each side i just wanted something i could pull out to disconnect the power when working on the batteries instead of having to unscrew the inverter every time. Plus it is lockable which i like so i can keep fingers out of it when im working on something.
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Posts: 17,615Banned ✭✭
    Re: Newbie upgrading inverter--Sparks flew

    Separate boxes for positive and negative should work, because it eliminates the problem of the short should they come loose. Epoxy would still be better than superglue. If it's good epoxy (I've seen a lot of bad epoxy).

    I don't know what sort of stuff you have available to you, but there are actual fittings for clamping down on wires coming in to a weather-tight box. Check the electrical section of your local hardware.

    That switch box isn't going to be of much use unless you're good at reworking things. Not only will the fuses not be interchangeable, but it is probably a knife switch which isn't very safe for turning off high Amperage DC. Maybe you could take the guts out, fit in these two things: http://www.solar-electric.com/fb200ampfuwi.html http://www.solar-electric.com/blseabaswon3.html and use the cover lock to keep unauthorized hands off.
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