It seems to be about the same power consumption as the 1.1 cu.ft. unit I tested (also Danby) - only a larger refrigerator! This is slightly less than half the power used by the 16 cu.ft. Whirlpool at the cabin.
And if that doesn't prove the point I don't know what would. :cool:
Some numbers from a thread I posted here in December:
Chest freezer, don't know the size but it isn't huge: 22 W-h (ambient temps 20-40F)
Fridge/freezer combo, average apartment size: 15 W-h (ambient temps 20-40F)
Fridge/freezer combo, average apartment size: 12 W-h (ambient temps teens-30F, same fridge as above)
Fridge/freezer combo, larger size w/ice maker: 51 W-h (15 feet from a wood stove running full blast, obviously this one is inside)
I made a note to re-run these tests, now that its summer.
Some numbers from a thread I posted here in December:
Chest freezer, don't know the size but it isn't huge: 22 W-h (ambient temps 20-40F)
Fridge/freezer combo, average apartment size: 15 W-h (ambient temps 20-40F)
Fridge/freezer combo, average apartment size: 12 W-h (ambient temps teens-30F, same fridge as above)
Fridge/freezer combo, larger size w/ice maker: 51 W-h (15 feet from a wood stove running full blast, obviously this one is inside)
I made a note to re-run these tests, now that its summer.
If you have the 'stat set to 30 degrees F and the ambient temp is 20 degrees F, will it run backwards?
If you have the 'stat set to 30 degrees F and the ambient temp is 20 degrees F, will it run backwards? MABE if you conect the powercord to the input of a gridtie inverter it may sell electricity back to the power co,????????:p
Update on my stuff, to show a comparison between two seasons.
Winter numbers, posted before:
1. Chest freezer: 22 W-h (ambient temps 20-40F)
2.1 Fridge/freezer combo: 15 W-h (ambient temps 20-40F)
2.2 Fridge/freezer combo: 12 W-h (ambient temps teens-30F, same fridge as above)
3. Fridge/freezer combo: 51 W-h (15 feet from a wood stove running full blast, obviously this one is inside)
tell me if this is possible. I have two chest freezers (one a refer conversion) both units I removed the outer skin, picked out the condenser coils, added 3 inches of foam, covered with frp then reattached the hot coils to the outside of the box. they work well BUT im running TWO compressors.
what if you took say a 16 foot top freezer model, layed it on its back,elevated it and remoted the compressor to an upright position? would'nt it be great to have a chest freezer/refrigerator combo running only one compressor? there;s a canadian company building these dual purpose chest freezers (12volt danfoss units) but the price tag is around 3k.
could this be done??? thanks!
...... layed it on its back,elevated it and remoted the compressor to an upright position? would'nt it be great to have a chest freezer/refrigerator combo running only one compressor? there;s a canadian company building these dual purpose chest freezers (12volt danfoss units) but the price tag is around 3k.
could this be done??? thanks!
I think the internal coils need to be arranged so oil goes back to the compressor, just remoting the compressor won't do that.
Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048
inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A
NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole |
Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor
(1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
So, for the benefit of us who got sidetracked by beer comments, what was the final conclusion by the Original Poster?
The conclusion is that whereas the small refrigerators do use less kW hours over-all, for the capacity they are atrocious energy hogs (1.1 cu. ft. using 0.5 kW hours vs. 14 cu. ft. using [best] 1.2 kW hours). The start-up surge on the tiny 'frige was as bad as, and in some cases worse than, the full-size units.
TheBackRoads slightly larger Danby unit (see Post #31) appears to be a reasonable compromise: about 3X the capacity of the tiny cube 'frige and about the same power consumption.
Coot I did dig in this thread a bit, but didn't see it. How many amps starting is required for a late model energy star fridge/freezer? I see your old one was 5.5 amps. Any better these days?
(There are many people who post here expecting to save power in an off-grid situation by using a "small" refrigerator, as opposed to a large one)..from the first post. wondering what would the surge/draw would be from a battery bank? before the inverter.
(There are many people who post here expecting to save power in an off-grid situation by using a "small" refrigerator, as opposed to a large one)..from the first post. wondering what would the surge/draw would be from a battery bank? before the inverter.
Depends on the voltage of the battery bank.
5A @ 120V = 50A @ 12V One has to consider the cable resistance, the sag of the battery under such a heavy load, and the inverter cut off point.
At 24V, it's only 25A, and 48V, only 12.5A
Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048
inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A
NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole |
Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor
(1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
thanks mike, I just pick up one of those clamp amp meters that BB was listing from sears,(thanks BB) now I just have to get my "behind" out to the carport, and plug in the fridge and see, was running that fridge from my off-grid set up, until I got the sundanzer a few months back, and I can see a differance in my battery voltage, before sunrise. I will post the ac/dc draw as soon as I get a chance. The reason I asked the previous question, so that others can figure out how much of a load that a fridge can put on a battery/bank, and of course their is a lot of variables.
whirlpool 21 qf freezer on top, let run for about 4 minutes took reading.
compressor 1.2A @ 116V.....12.20A @ 12.70v DC
compressor and light 1.66A @ 116V...........17.20A @ 12.70V DC
the light alone took .49A........5.45A @12.70V DC.
DC reading varied just a little up and down.
running off a exelltech 600 watt 12v inverter
Coot I did dig in this thread a bit, but didn't see it. How many amps starting is required for a late model energy star fridge/freezer? I see your old one was 5.5 amps. Any better these days?
The one E-star unit I tested had a start-up of 7.27 Amps when already cooled down. Kind of sucks up the electrons, eh? :roll: That's nearly 860 Watts.
I've got two more refrigerators and two more freezers to test, when I get to them.
(Don't ask why I have so much refrigeration equipment - it's a long story.)
My 3.1 cu ft Ref/Frez tested at 78 watts. ( was listed at 84). Not so bad, but compare size/wattage they use to much for the size.
Larger than my Whirlpool cube and uses less power. Quieter too!
The best thing about it is the temperature regulation.
It is accurate and keeps ice cream frozen.
I'll have to do that 24 hr. test and see how it compares.
Startup on this is about 5A. Running is less than 1A. According to the kill-o-watt it consumes just under 1Kw in 24hrs.
I use a Xantrax ProWatt SW inverter to run it. I did let the batteries get low once and the inverter had trouble starting the compressor @ 11.5v.
There are probably more efficient ones out there, but at $375, it fit the space and I could pick it up at a local Lowes so I went with it.
The interesting thing is the house fridge which is twice as big uses about the same power. Don't seem to gain anything by going with a smaller refrigerator.
A lot of good info here about Energy Star and older refrigerators and freezers.
Has anyone actually tested the Sun Frost line of freezers and refrigerators to see if their published energy numbers (@110/120vac) are real world numbers?
Comments
Less than 0.6 kwh/day? Not bad, not bad at all! Thanks for sharing.
It seems to be about the same power consumption as the 1.1 cu.ft. unit I tested (also Danby) - only a larger refrigerator! This is slightly less than half the power used by the 16 cu.ft. Whirlpool at the cabin.
And if that doesn't prove the point I don't know what would. :cool:
Six cents a day to keep your beer cold? I'll take it!
I have one of those in my office, seems real efficient. Is marked Energy Star, and I shopped around until I found one with really low numbers.
And a "cheap" full sized 18 cuft fridge/freezer with frost free (too cheap for the ice maker:roll:) is rated for 0.85 kWH per day (311 kWH per year).
At some point, I will through a Kill-a-Watt meter on it to confirm (lazy).
-Bill
That is if my math is correct :roll:
Also note, the humidity was low during this test. It is an insulated porch that we use 3 seasons. No direct sun.
Latest "just for fun" test: 15 cu. ft. RCA chest freezer (very old).
Start-up surge: 4.99 Amps
Running Watts: 154 average
Daily consumption: a horrible 3.7 kW hours
Let's see what other refrigeration units I come across.
Some numbers from a thread I posted here in December:
Chest freezer, don't know the size but it isn't huge: 22 W-h (ambient temps 20-40F)
Fridge/freezer combo, average apartment size: 15 W-h (ambient temps 20-40F)
Fridge/freezer combo, average apartment size: 12 W-h (ambient temps teens-30F, same fridge as above)
Fridge/freezer combo, larger size w/ice maker: 51 W-h (15 feet from a wood stove running full blast, obviously this one is inside)
I made a note to re-run these tests, now that its summer.
If you have the 'stat set to 30 degrees F and the ambient temp is 20 degrees F, will it run backwards?
Should! 8)
Heatpump Style
If you have the 'stat set to 30 degrees F and the ambient temp is 20 degrees F, will it run backwards?
MABE if you conect the powercord to the input of a gridtie inverter it may sell electricity back to the power co,????????:p
Tell ya what, next winter when my garage is in the teens I'll unplug it from the wall and touch the plug to my tounge to see if I get a tingle. :-)
Update on my stuff, to show a comparison between two seasons.
Winter numbers, posted before:
1. Chest freezer: 22 W-h (ambient temps 20-40F)
2.1 Fridge/freezer combo: 15 W-h (ambient temps 20-40F)
2.2 Fridge/freezer combo: 12 W-h (ambient temps teens-30F, same fridge as above)
3. Fridge/freezer combo: 51 W-h (15 feet from a wood stove running full blast, obviously this one is inside)
Summer numbers:
1. Chest freezer: 51 W-h (ambient temps 70s-80sF)
2 Fridge/freezer combo: 73.5 W-h (ambient temps 70s-80sF)
3. Fridge/freezer combo: 64 W-h (75F inside)
tell me if this is possible. I have two chest freezers (one a refer conversion) both units I removed the outer skin, picked out the condenser coils, added 3 inches of foam, covered with frp then reattached the hot coils to the outside of the box. they work well BUT im running TWO compressors.
what if you took say a 16 foot top freezer model, layed it on its back,elevated it and remoted the compressor to an upright position? would'nt it be great to have a chest freezer/refrigerator combo running only one compressor? there;s a canadian company building these dual purpose chest freezers (12volt danfoss units) but the price tag is around 3k.
could this be done??? thanks!
I think the internal coils need to be arranged so oil goes back to the compressor, just remoting the compressor won't do that.
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,
So, for the benefit of us who got sidetracked by beer comments, what was the final conclusion by the Original Poster?
The conclusion is that whereas the small refrigerators do use less kW hours over-all, for the capacity they are atrocious energy hogs (1.1 cu. ft. using 0.5 kW hours vs. 14 cu. ft. using [best] 1.2 kW hours). The start-up surge on the tiny 'frige was as bad as, and in some cases worse than, the full-size units.
TheBackRoads slightly larger Danby unit (see Post #31) appears to be a reasonable compromise: about 3X the capacity of the tiny cube 'frige and about the same power consumption.
Coot I did dig in this thread a bit, but didn't see it. How many amps starting is required for a late model energy star fridge/freezer? I see your old one was 5.5 amps. Any better these days?
The normal assumption is 3-5x running current for starting surge.
Perhaps 2manytoyz can update his website with some common surge currents (fridge, etc.) with his fancy Fluke current meter (with "in-rush" capture).
-Bill
(There are many people who post here expecting to save power in an off-grid situation by using a "small" refrigerator, as opposed to a large one)..from the first post. wondering what would the surge/draw would be from a battery bank? before the inverter.
Depends on the voltage of the battery bank.
5A @ 120V = 50A @ 12V One has to consider the cable resistance, the sag of the battery under such a heavy load, and the inverter cut off point.
At 24V, it's only 25A, and 48V, only 12.5A
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,
thanks mike, I just pick up one of those clamp amp meters that BB was listing from sears,(thanks BB) now I just have to get my "behind" out to the carport, and plug in the fridge and see, was running that fridge from my off-grid set up, until I got the sundanzer a few months back, and I can see a differance in my battery voltage, before sunrise. I will post the ac/dc draw as soon as I get a chance. The reason I asked the previous question, so that others can figure out how much of a load that a fridge can put on a battery/bank, and of course their is a lot of variables.
got it.
whirlpool 21 qf freezer on top, let run for about 4 minutes took reading.
compressor 1.2A @ 116V.....12.20A @ 12.70v DC
compressor and light 1.66A @ 116V...........17.20A @ 12.70V DC
the light alone took .49A........5.45A @12.70V DC.
DC reading varied just a little up and down.
running off a exelltech 600 watt 12v inverter
Samsung 29cuft French door with dual ice makers. 1.4kw a day with all day usage.
I have a Frigider 5.0cu ft starts @107 watts runs @42-47 watts I havent done a 24 hour yet but will soon.
Chuck
The one E-star unit I tested had a start-up of 7.27 Amps when already cooled down. Kind of sucks up the electrons, eh? :roll: That's nearly 860 Watts.
I've got two more refrigerators and two more freezers to test, when I get to them.
(Don't ask why I have so much refrigeration equipment - it's a long story.)
Anybody have any experience with a Steca 5.9 DC fridge/freezer? It's made in Austria and has been in Ontario for a year or two. Sounds like a real power-miser, if it lives up to its specs. http://www.uniqueoffgrid.com/en-ca/Products/Product-Line-up_/Solar-Appliances/Stecca-PF166.html
I found the exact unit I have online.
My 3.1 cu ft Ref/Frez tested at 78 watts. ( was listed at 84). Not so bad, but compare size/wattage they use to much for the size.
Larger than my Whirlpool cube and uses less power. Quieter too!
It's an Edgestar this one:
http://www.compactappliance.com/CRF320SS-EdgeStar-Midsize-Compact-Refrigerator-Freezer-Stainless-Steel/CRF320SS,default,pd.html?cgid=Appliances-Refrigerators-Refrigerator_Freezer
The best thing about it is the temperature regulation.
It is accurate and keeps ice cream frozen.
I'll have to do that 24 hr. test and see how it compares.
I have a Whirlpool 9.6 cu ft in my Motorhome.
Startup on this is about 5A. Running is less than 1A. According to the kill-o-watt it consumes just under 1Kw in 24hrs.
I use a Xantrax ProWatt SW inverter to run it. I did let the batteries get low once and the inverter had trouble starting the compressor @ 11.5v.
There are probably more efficient ones out there, but at $375, it fit the space and I could pick it up at a local Lowes so I went with it.
The interesting thing is the house fridge which is twice as big uses about the same power. Don't seem to gain anything by going with a smaller refrigerator.
A lot of good info here about Energy Star and older refrigerators and freezers.
Has anyone actually tested the Sun Frost line of freezers and refrigerators to see if their published energy numbers (@110/120vac) are real world numbers?