Should I worry about Brand Names with Circuit Breakers?

lolcashcow

Hi Guys,

Just bought my Xantrex inverter 1.8k continuous watts pure sinewave. The user guide says it recommends 0/4 awg copper cables and a 250 amps circuit breaker. I was reading through amazon about some breakers and some people reported they were cheaply made; mainly the cheaper breakers. So I am wondering just how much I should spend on a circuit breaker and what are some reliable brand names out there?

Stinger SGP90250 250-AMP Circuit Breaker
http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP90250-250-AMP-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00TPKZV82

 XSCORPION (CB250) 250 Amp Circuit Breaker with Manual Reset
http://www.amazon.com/XSCORPION-CB250-Circuit-Breaker-Manual/dp/B00MR1LVZS

actually amazon doesn't even seem to carry many circuit breakers... could you guys suggest a place to buy from?

Here is the inverter

http://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-PROWatt-Inverter-Model-806-1220/dp/B002LGEMOQ/

and user guide

http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Power-Inverters/PROwatt-SW/975-0529-01-01_Rev-C(Artwork).pdf

Vic

Just posted this link in the    ' ...  Copper Cables '   Thread.

Here is the real-deal 250 A DC circuit breaker:
http://www.solar-electric.com/installation-parts-and-equipment/midnite/cipr1/high-amperage-inverter-breakers/mnedc250.html

It needs a metal box for proper mounting.

YES,  IMO,  those links to the cheapie breakers show cheapie breakers.

Blue Sea,  and Bussman (IIRC)  make that style breaker,  but,  to those like me,  they are little toy wanna-be breakers.  Would guess that Bussman and Blue Sea are higher,  or somewhat higher quality than the Amazon linked breakers.

That style breaker most likely has a limited number of Rated Trips,  as well as a limited number of manual cycles  --  a guess.

It is difficult to find detailed specs on them,  and some only try to meet some SAE or Marine specs.

Their AIC (Asymetric Interrupt Current)  ratings are usually  quite slim,   and so on.

FWIW,  Vic

Vic

lol...,

Cannot tell if you are on-line or not,  so this will be a separate post,  not an edit to the above ...

In looking at what you are trying to do,  in general,  I wonder if the Leaf's DC/DC Converter can tolerate long-duration Heavy Loads like the ones that you seem to envision.

AND,  therefore,  perhaps going to 4/0 cables,   and a 250 A breaker might well be considerable overkill,  unless this inverter will have other uses for you.

Here is a Link to our Host's listing
http://www.solar-electric.com/installation-parts-and-equipment/midnite/cipr1/high-amperage-inverter-breakers/mr60ampdccib.html

I have not visited any EV Forum,  so I do not know about the details of the Leaf Converter's ability to sustain heavy loading,  but the above is just a wonderment.

Good Luck,   Vic

lolcashcow

Hi There,

Thank you for replying The way I see it is $80 for a 250 amp and $45 for a 150 amp breaker or lower. The page says the 150 amps and lower are "used with small inverters in the 150 to 1000 watt range". Since this inverter I bought is 1.8k continuous and 3k max surge... would a 150 amp breaker still be suitable?

From what I read the  leaf can provide "The Leaf's DC-DC converter can supply up to about 1.7kW or 135a"

Does this mean I would not have to worry about a max surge of 1.8k or higher? Through selectable levels The induction cooker can draw more than 1.8k watts, but I am planning on not setting a level higher than 1.8k hopefully staying in 1.5k watts.

Does this mean I won't have to worry about high starting surge currents? I might use it with a small vacuum cleaner to clean my vehicle, but I am undecided on which yet. I am hoping small vaccuums don't draw too high a current on start up but I know they do have a small motor....

At some point down the line I might use it with http://www.amazon.com/ARB-10800472-Fridge-Freezer-Quart/dp/B002Q1INDM Perhaps around 5 years from now

ARB recommends that a dedicated wiring circuit be in stalled to power the fridge freezer. This circuit should be as short as possible and be connected directly to the power supply via a 15 Amp fuse

Your ARB Fridge Freezer can be operated on a n AC voltage of 100 – 240V.

Rated Current:
12 VDC  7.0 A
24 VDC 3.0 A
100-240 VAC 1.3 - 0.7 A (1.4 A at 120V AC )

You also mentioned the breaker needs to be installed with a  box. A metal box? What kind of box is this one? Sorry I have o idea what kind of box is needed? Just a metal box? I think I mentioned before on using wood.. I gues that is a no no. So I just need to pick some type of metal board or must it be an actual box?

Raj174

lolcashcow,

Like Vic, I went back and read about your application for this inverter, since it is limited to 150 amps the 1/0 cable and 150 amp surface mount breaker should be fine. In that case no box is necessary. It should also handle the refrigerator freezer no problem.

If you can't find the battery/inverter cable you are looking for, you can always go to a battery retailer where they sell and install batteries like interstate, that's where I had mine custom made.  

lolcashcow

Raj174 said:

lolcashcow,

Like Vic, I went back and read about your application for this inverter, since it is limited to 150 amps the 1/0 cable and 150 amp surface mount breaker should be fine. In that case no box is necessary. It should also handle the refrigerator freezer no problem.

If you can't find the battery/inverter cable you are looking for, you can always go to a battery retailer where they sell and install batteries like interstate, that's where I had mine custom made.  

Ah great, well I am a total newbie for this project so anything that can be custom made would be good . I was just worried about starting surge currents? I will pick up the 150 amp breaker if this is enough. There are no benefits to going with thicker cables then? It won't make things more efficient? Also the box that was mentioned before... is this only needed if an installation is a certain amount of power? It just rained today here in L.A. usually that doesn't happen, but if I keep this under the hood of my car wouldn't rain be an issue as I drive around? I want to make the inverter connection plug and play like in this thread here: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=13097 So I won't leave the inverter under the hood. Just the breaker and the connectors and cables.... Will they be fine if it rains? It usually never rains here in L.A. this is just extremely rare. Also, what do you suggest for a mounting space to place the breaker and cables and connectors in? In the thread he used a piece of aluminum shaped to be mounted on top of the battery. Do you guys know of anything that can be mounted on top of a battery like that?

Vic

Hi lol..,

That 250 A breaker is NOT rated for exposure to the elements,  and it is sensitive to its orientation.  It would need to be enclosed in a "Rain tight" enclosure  ...   probably something that you do not want to deal with.

And,  regarding the adequacy of the 150 A breaker and perhaps smaller gauge wire,  much of this depends upon the cable length.

We (or at least,  I) know nothing about the nature of the 12 volt battery or the DC/DC converter,  regarding their surge current specs,  so cable and breaker sizing is a lot of unknown,  to me.

The breaker in the Link to the Wind-Sun store indicates that it is "weatherproof",  IIRC,   perhaps you might still  want to make that part of what is installed only for using the EV power,  there is a lot of crapola that is blown up and into auto compartments.   Believe that the Leaf has a belly pan,  of sorts,  and this might keep this debris away from the breaker and cables,  and so on.

Keep cables short,  with the fewest number of 12 v positive connections exposed,  to try to avoid accidents,  and so on.

Just my uninformed opinions,   Good Luck,   Vic

lolcashcow

Thanks Vic and Raj,

So itemizing my list to buy:

150 amp water proofed breaker http://www.solar-electric.com/installation-parts-and-equipment/midnite/cipr1/high-amperage-inverter-breakers/mr60ampdccib.html

and cables... Raj you originally mentioned 2/0 AWG cables in the copper thread, but in your previous reply here you mentioned 1/0 cables so... which cables should I get? 2/0 or 1/0?

The 2/0 says : #2/0 AWG x 12" Battery Interconnect cables with 3/8" lugs

and the 150 amp breaker says: Termination: 5/16-18 bolt threaded studs.


-edit-

Okay after checking back on my inverter thread: http://forum.solar-electric.com/discussion/350301/help-me-pick-an-inverter-out-of-these-brand-names-reliability?new=1

I saw that Bill listed an anderson connector kit that is sold here: http://www.solar-electric.com/installation-parts-and-equipment/wiring-cables-and-connectors/anhicupoco/an175amppoco/sb-175-1-0.html

Anderson Power SB175 Connector Kit for #1/0 AWG Wire

So since I see it listed that it is for #1/0 AWG  we will just have to settle for #1/0 AWG instead of 2/0?

I am picking up the inverter on Monday from the Post Office. I am hoping the #1/0 awg connectors fit right into the inverter. I'm still unsure how to finish everything, but I will tackle it one step at a time. I'm really happy that it will plug and play. I wasn't too sure I wanted the inverter permanently attached to the car the whole time.


Oh and I popped the hood and checked how exposed the front of the car is at the bottom. Actually it does have that belly pan with small openings near the wheels. It looks to be pretty well covered though! If all works  well i am planning on taking my mom to the park and cooking something on the car doing a little picnic .

I am hoping in the end the final product looks something like:




Though I stil need to figure out on to what I will mount the breaker and anderson connector. In that picture the guy used some sort of  self made aluminum bracket. Any suggestions on what I could mount the breaker and anderson connector?

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=13097

BB.

One nice thing about fuses, is you can find some pretty small versions that can bolt in nicely:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A

They make both single and dual fuse holders (note the fuses, not cheap, are ordered separately from the holder).

-Bill

zoneblue

Should you be worried about the brand of life jacket /air bag/ climbing rope/ etc?

Raj174

You may need the cables custom made, say you need a 3/8 terminal lug at the inverter on a 1/0 cable to a 5/16 terminal lug at breaker. Put the inverter and breaker where you want them then measure the cable lengths. Positive inverter to breaker, the other positive breaker to battery or Anderson plug. Both custom made, with the necessary terminal lugs. It will be easier to connect it. As I said, they can be made at any battery installation shop. They have the cable and the terminal lugs.  Tape or shrink tube the positive terminals.

The 1/0 cable can handle a max of 150 amps. 2/0 can carry 175 amps and would likely be more safe. If it were me, I'd go with the 2/0 cable. Once you have the inverter and breaker you can determine the terminal lugs you need. Also, consider the fuse that Bill mentioned above. It might be a better fit.

lolcashcow

Okay looking at the website bill provided there are no retailers that sell it here in L.A. so I went online and it looks like amazon carries it:

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5191-Terminal/dp/B0019ZBTV4
Blue Sea Systems 5191 Fuse Block Terminal 30-300 AMP  $17.57

and I would guess that this is the fuse that you have to buy separately?

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5190-Terminal/dp/B001AFZL9O
Blue Sea Systems 5190 300A Fuse Terminal  $16.85

and like bill said the dual version:

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Terminal-Block/dp/B002INJXO6



So then this is the alternative to the 150 amp circuit breaker. Since the fuse can go as high as 300 amp does this make it also safer? Because it can handle higher currents?

It has the convenience of  space saving, but unlike the circuit breaker there is no 'on/off' switch  bonus. Plus like Bill said before once the fuses start popping you  end up paying more $$$ than just getting a circuit breaker. If it is a safer choice though then I think t will be worth it .


Oh and for the copper cables I guess I won't be buying any online after all? I should just drop by at an interstate store and have the right length for the copper cables on hand then have them put the terminal lugs on the cables? Plus Tape or shrink tube the positive terminals?

I like the idea of using #2/0 cables but the anderson connector listed earlier says "Anderson Power SB175 Connector Kit for #1/0 AWG Wire" Since it mentions a wire size of #1/0 I guess that means it won't work with #2/0 cables?

Also the place I will be mounting/installing the fuse and anderson plug (Inverter I will carry with me).... Can it be any type of sheet metal? It just needs to be a flat surface.. but NOT a piece of wood, right? Would a sheet of metal work? Or does it need to be something more specific if its going to be held above the car battery?

Vic

lolcashcow said:

Okay looking at the website bill provided there are no retailers that sell it here in L.A. so I went online and it looks like amazon carries it:

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5191-Terminal/dp/B0019ZBTV4
Blue Sea Systems 5191 Fuse Block Terminal 30-300 AMP  $17.57

and I would guess that this is the fuse that you have to buy separately?

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5190-Terminal/dp/B001AFZL9O
Blue Sea Systems 5190 300A Fuse Terminal  $16.85

and like bill said the dual version:

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Terminal-Block/dp/B002INJXO6



So then this is the alternative to the 150 amp circuit breaker. Since the fuse can go as high as 300 amp does this make it also safer? Because it can handle higher currents?

It has the convenience of  space saving, but unlike the circuit breaker there is no 'on/off' switch  bonus. Plus like Bill said before once the fuses start popping you  end up paying more $$$ than just getting a circuit breaker. If it is a safer choice though then I think t will be worth it .


Oh and for the copper cables I guess I won't be buying any online after all? I should just drop by at an interstate store and have the right length for the copper cables on hand then have them put the terminal lugs on the cables? Plus Tape or shrink tube the positive terminals?

I like the idea of using #2/0 cables but the anderson connector listed earlier says "Anderson Power SB175 Connector Kit for #1/0 AWG Wire" Since it mentions a wire size of #1/0 I guess that means it won't work with #2/0 cables?

Also the place I will be mounting/installing the fuse and anderson plug (Inverter I will carry with me).... Can it be any type of sheet metal? It just needs to be a flat surface.. but NOT a piece of wood, right? Would a sheet of metal work? Or does it need to be something more specific if its going to be held above the car battery?

YES,  a 300 A  Fuse seems like a good thing,  until one moves to  battery cables that can tolerate as much as 300 amps of current.   Some might say that 4/0 cables are OK,  and they probably are,  possibly even smaller,  as the length will probably be fairly short,  and probably in "free air".

Having a Disconnect is a very good idea,  but,  guess with some fiddling ,  perhaps the Anderson connector could be separated ...   bun in an emergency,  this might take a bit of time,  and perhaps with some heat involved ...

Just a drive-by.     FWIW,  Vic

BB.

An alternative fuse system (from our host's site):

http://www.solar-electric.com/installation-parts-and-equipment/midnite/cipr1/infubr.html

First, you design the wiring to support the load... And over-sizing (fusing/breakers/wiring) can have issues (you do not feed 200 Amps to a 100 watt lamp fixture--The 200 amps, if there was ever a short, would blow out the j-box/fixture). Also, past a certain point, you cannot even fit the wires in the box/fixture/device.

Next, you design/pick the fuses/breakers tor the a) size of the wire and b) the characteristics of the source.

For NEC, we design the wiring to support (at least) 1.25x the maximum continuous load expected. 10 amp load would need (at least) 12.5 amp rated wiring.

And for (standard) NEC breakers/fuses, again, 1.25x max continuous load.

And on the source side, we need to know the working voltage, AC or DC, and the maximum source current. For example, the breakers in your AC fuse box are rated for 10,000 AIC (Amps Interrupted Current). That is the maximum current that a typical pole mounted transformer can output to a house.

Looking at the fuses for the BlueSea system:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/0/42//Marine Rated Battery Fuses

Marine Rated Battery Fuses - Marine Rated Battery Fuses

Space-saving ignition protected fuse for 30 to 300 Amp loads. Must use with Terminal Fuse Block.

• High Interrupt Rating satisfies ABYC requirements for DC main circuit protection on large battery banks
• Clear window—visual indication of blown condition
• Color-coded for easy amperage identification
• One per retail package

150 Amp fuse:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5185/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_-_150A

Specifications
Amperage	150A
Maximum Voltage	58V DC
Interrupt Capacity	10000A @ 14V DC 5000A @ 32V DC 2000A @ 58V DC
Weight	0.06lb (0.03 kg)

So, I would size the fuse to "safely/reliably" carry your expected load current--And size the wiring the same way. Do not oversize... There is no real reason to do that. A properly sized fuse or breaker should last a decade or more (they will eventually fail--that is the nature of the beast).

-Bill

vtmaps

lolcashcow said:

So then this is the alternative to the 150 amp circuit breaker. Since the fuse can go as high as 300 amp does this make it also safer? Because it can handle higher currents?

No.  The alternative to a 150 amp circuit breaker is a 150 amp fuse. 

The purpose of the fuse or circuit breaker is to protect the wire from burning if it is overloaded.  Therefore AFTER you choose the wire, you look up its ampacity and find out how many amps it can take.  Then you pick a fuse or circuit breaker that will blow or trip before the wire burns up.

--vtMaps

BB.

Many times with solar and off grid power, we use heavier wire for low voltage drop (especially 12 volt battery systems).

You then can choose a fuse/breaker based on max load current or max wire capacity.

You also need to check the fuse rating for the load. They may be rated for lower current than the specific wire you picked.

-Bill

lolcashcow

Hi Bill!,

In your first link from the host ... does this mean I need a fuse box holder? I thought we were going with the blue sea systems?

Okay, It looks like I got confused and somehow ended up looking for that 300 amp fuse instead of a 150 amp fuse. That was my mistake, sorry.

I found the blue sea systems fuse in amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5185-Terminal/dp/B001AFVW4C
Blue Sea Systems 5185 150A Fuse Terminal $17.34

I believe the fuse block terminal is this one still:

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5191-Terminal/dp/B0019ZBTV4
Blue Sea Systems 5191 Fuse Block Terminal 30-300 AMP $17.57


For the copper cable size the suggestion right now is #2/0 instead of #1/0. Do you think this will do, Bill? I know I haven't listed any actual length for the cables, but it will be very short. I am seeing it looking just like the set up in the nissan leaf forum:



As to what I will use for mounting I am not sure. Perhaps sheet metal? A metal I can bend by hand? Can it be any metal like aluminum, steel, iron? Wood is out of the question?



The inverter:  Xantrex prowatt sw2000 (1800W continuous)

    A/C Output: 120 VAC, 60Hz
    Power Output: 1800 Watts Sine Wave
    Max Surge: 3000 Watts
    Input Range: 10.5 15.5 Vdc
    Includes USB charging receptacle
    GFCI receptacle


The highest draw from the system will likely be the induction cooker:

DUXTOP 1800-Watt Portable Induction Cooktop

It has 15 power levels and each level draws this amount:
200W, 300W, 400W, 500W, 600W, 700W, 800W, 900W, 1000W, 1100W, 1200W, 1300W, 1500W, 1600W, 1800W;
That's from Power Level 1 through 15. I will likely keep it operational only up to 1500W.

I'm not sure what kind of starting load it will have (No motor? Induction instead).

The other item I will use is an old blender I have:

120 volts
375 watts
25-60 hz max freq
A.C. Only

This one has a motor so those 375 watts will likely be more when first starting it, but I am unsure if it will be more than 1800 watts.

BB.

The other link was to a different fuse+holder system. Options.

More later.

-Bill

Raj174

I found the pictured 150 amp breaker. This is the link...http://www.zoro.com/cooper-bussmann-automotive-circuit-breaker-cb185-150a-cb185-150/i/G1890384/?gclid=CLvE74682MoCFZA2gQodmWQKHA&gclsrc=aw.ds

Raj174

lolcashcow,

Since you are  going with 2/0 wire you will need anderson power SB350 connectors, 2 of them. Can't find them listed on NAWS but you can got to Zoro.com and do a search for "anderson power sb350". They have the connector handles also. I like the way it is mounted above the battery along with the 150 amp breaker mentioned above.

zoneblue

Im no fan of those busman marine style  thermal breakers. They may be ignition rated, (which is good seeing as the guy mounted the thing on top of a portable hydrogen generator) but they are slow, and prone to failure becasue they have no arc shute.

lolcashcow

zoneblue said:

Im no fan of those busman marine style  thermal breakers. They may be ignition rated, (which is good seeing as the guy mounted the thing on top of a portable hydrogen generator) but they are slow, and prone to failure becasue they have no arc shute.

Thank you Zoneblue. By what you said it sounds like passing on that circuit breaker would be the right thing. Which are easier to work with Circuit breakers or fuses? From what II have seen it seems fuses save space while breakers take up more space but have switches.

vtmaps

lolcashcow said:

Which are easier to work with Circuit breakers or fuses? From what II have seen it seems fuses save space while breakers take up more space but have switches.

In the Midnite combiner boxes, fuses take up more room that circuit breakers.... their box that holds three breakers can only hold two fuses.  Their box that holds six breakers can only hold four fuses, etc. 

--vtMaps

lolcashcow

vtmaps said:

In the Midnite combiner boxes, fuses take up more room that circuit breakers.... their box that holds three breakers can only hold two fuses.  Their box that holds six breakers can only hold four fuses, etc. 

--vtMaps

I see but the listed Blue Sea Systems looks to be pretty small:

Here is the terminal:

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5191-Terminal/dp/B0019ZBTV4
Blue Sea Systems 5191 Fuse Block Terminal 30-300 AMP $17.57

The fuse:

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5185-Terminal/dp/B001AFVW4C
Blue Sea Systems 5185 150A Fuse Terminal $17.34

So if I understand it right then fuse boxses with holders are generally bigger than circuit breakers?  The Blue Sea System does not have a box and cover (For better or worse)  so this one should still be the smaller option  when compared with te circuit breaker , right?


The inverter:  Xantrex prowatt sw2000 (1800W continuous)
Copper Cables: #2/0 AWG
Fuse: Blue Sea Systems 5185 150A Fuse + 5191 Fuse Block Terminal 30-300 AMP

I think the final item that needs to be cleared up now is the Anderson Connector....

Bill suggested :

http://www.solar-electric.com/installation-parts-and-equipment/wiring-cables-and-connectors/anhicupoco/an175amppoco/sb-175-1-0.html

Anderson Power SB175 Connector Kit for #1/0 AWG Wire

But it uses #1/0 AWG wire and we are going to use #2/0 right?

Then Raj174 mentioned:

"Since you are  going with 2/0 wire you will need anderson power SB350 connectors, 2 of them."

Why would I need two connectors? Is that the pins I see online for it? The housing is the plastic cover, right? So the connectors are the pins?

Should I still be looking for an anderson connector SB 350? is that 350 amps?

Here isthe main website with the list of connectors:

http://www.andersonpower.com/us/en/products/sb-sb-boots/

Selection Guide

	Primary Positions							Connector Attributes
	Amps (up to)	Wire Sizes AWG	Wire Sizes mm²	Quantity of Positions (up to)	Wire	PCB	Bus Bar	Sealed
SB®50	120	16 to 6	1.3 to 13.3	2	●	●	●	●
SB®120	240	10 to 1	5.3 to 42.4	2	●		●	●
SB®175	340	10 to 2/0	5.3 to 70	2, 3	●		●	●
SB®350	450	1/0 to 300 mcm	53.5 to 152	2	●		●

NOTE:
Many of the mm² wire sizes are based on calculations. See the catalog for specific mm² wire sizes.

It seems the sb175 can take up to #2/0 AWG but why is it listed as #1/0 here in solar electric? Is it unsafe?

actually the manual on the sb175 says it can take only up to #1/0 AWG

http://www.andersonpower.com/_global-assets/downloads/pdf/ds-sb175.pdf

but the main page on the site say different and it can take up to 280 amps but he main page on the site lists differently i'm confused.

Vic

Hi lol..,

Well,  you really have very few choices in what breaker you can use.

The real deal DC breakers are not rated for exposure.   AND,  really,  there is no available 3R box that will accept these breakers,  without modification.   Plus,  the breaker and most any box would be large.

As I stated in the first reply,  above,  I,  too,  am not a fan of these Surface-Mount Thermal breakers.   They are not robust mechanically of electrically.  They might be better than nothing ...

However,   the Buss 150 A breaker claims to have 5,000 AIC rating at 12 V,  which is probably adequate for the application. Would still guess that these breakers have a quite-limited number of rated trips,  and manual off-on cycles,  as well.

While this seems to be a very cute application,  personally,  would wonder about a Propane Camp Stove as a US $40 solution,  but that's just me.

And so on,   Vic

lolcashcow

Hi Vic,

Thank you for replying . I do recall reading that breakers have a certain amount of times they can trip before no longer working.. but I did not know about the switch. After reading your advice I now feel more strongly that the fuse is the better way to go plus it is also smaller.

Would you be able to help me with the Anderson Connector? I am getting conflicting information from the anderson site. Looking at the manual it mentions up to #1/0 but on the site it says up to #2/0. Plus the amps are also off it can take up to 280 amps but the main page on the site lists differently . My guess is that it can only take up to #1/0 for the sb175? Does this means I should pick up the SB 350?

Oh I used to use propane . I used to carry a propane tank with me with a burner.. I did not feel that comfortable with it  , but I did use it. I used it for about a year and a half.  I charge my EV at work and other places I visit for free. I figured this would be the wiser choice. The inverter should pay itself off in about 3 months. After that it will just be gains lots of $$$ green billl gains!

Vic

Hi lol..,

Well,  the Anderson connectors might be designed for SAE specs,  or perhaps several SAE specs.

SAE cable is smaller for a given gauge #,   and Ampacities are somewhat different,  verses the NEC specs for cable Ampacities and cross-sectional area.

I have little experience with Anderson PPs.

Fine on your prior use of propane ...   sorry to have been a bit snarky.   More Later,   Vic

softdown

I have no real expertise regarding circuit breakers. I read this thread because I was about to make my own thread regarding circuit breakers.

Pretty sure that we need to consider whether the system is 12 or 24 or 48 volt. If employed in the combiner box, then we need to consider the voltage of the solar panel strings. Also need DC rated breakers or fuses of course.

Then we have the issue of hooking it up to our wires. Since I am considering installing one between my 24 volt inverter and battery, I would need one that can handle the lugs used on 2/0 copper wires. Either that or have holes that one can insert 2/0 wires into...even better due to fewer parts.

Then one needs to consider whether it is to be mounted outdoors or indoors. Some are weatherproof, others are not.

There is an argument for considering the options provided by our host. These are for solar DC applications and should be of credible quality.

***Then I see breakers that are rated for both DC and AC applications. Their DC rating is a fraction of their AC rating.

Ah....the never ending joys of being your own power company.

lolcashcow

Hi  There and thanks for all the replies,

I believe the car battery in the nissan leaf is 12v so this is a 12v system unless the car runs with 24v which I don't think is true. What I really need help with is on the anderson connectors. SB175 or SB 350? I will use #2/0 wire and it seems sb175 can take up to #1/0?

Raj174

Might be a good idea to call Zoro.com and tell them you are connecting a pair of 2/0 cables and ask them to recommend the connector hardware and handle you need to do it. I'm sure their support staff would be glad to help you get the right one.
This is the number: 855-289-9676

Vic

lol..,

Just make sure that you understand the spec on the cable size,  as I tried to note above,   if  the Anderson PPs are speced for SAE cable,  then this is generally a bit smaller cross-sectional area than are cables  speced as AWG.

If you are trying to max out on cable size for a given PP connector,  this could make a difference in fit.

Was also trying to say,  that the PPs may be speced several different ways,  OR,  perhaps some of them might be speced to several different standards,  which could be some of the ambiguity of what you are seeing in the specs.

Have not looked at any of the Anderson specs,  so dunno.

Will add,  that if your cables are quite short,  that oversizing cables might have no real measurable benefit,  IMO ...

FWIW,     Good Luck,   Vic