Help with breaker / fusing sizing
stereoman405
Solar Expert Posts: 56 ✭✭✭✭
Just need some help figuring out what size breakers to put in the following locations:
- Combiner box at PV array.
- Just before charger controller.
- Just leaving charge controller, heading into batts.
My other locations, such as inverters, I'll just be using the manufacturer recommended wire size and fusing.
For specifics I'll have (4) REC 210's in (2) series strings put into parallel at my combiner, then hooked up to a 60A Xantrex controller connected to a 12v bank.
- REC 210 Specs: 28.1v Vmpp & 7.5A Impp.
My math led me to a 15A DC breaker for each 'series' at the combiner (56.2V @ 7.5A), and a 30A DC breaker for the 'IN' of the charge controller (56.2v @ 15A), and 60A for the 'OUT' of the charge controller. (I picked 60A because that is the biggest breaker offered through NAWS's store, and I figured the Xantrex can't output more than 60A anyways.)
Is there a general rule of thumb for sizing? I thought I've read that you just take the max current from the item and multiply by 1.5. That's basically what I did, then rounded up to get to the closest breaker that NAWS offers.
If you want to double check my inverter plans, I have an 1800w and 1000w Xantrex mod sine wave inverter. I won't be using them simultaneously, and I won't have a heavy load on either when running. I plan on:
- 1000w Inverter - 2 AWG - 110A fuse
- 1800w Inverter - 4/0 AWG - 200A fuse
Am I in the ball park with all this?
- Combiner box at PV array.
- Just before charger controller.
- Just leaving charge controller, heading into batts.
My other locations, such as inverters, I'll just be using the manufacturer recommended wire size and fusing.
For specifics I'll have (4) REC 210's in (2) series strings put into parallel at my combiner, then hooked up to a 60A Xantrex controller connected to a 12v bank.
- REC 210 Specs: 28.1v Vmpp & 7.5A Impp.
My math led me to a 15A DC breaker for each 'series' at the combiner (56.2V @ 7.5A), and a 30A DC breaker for the 'IN' of the charge controller (56.2v @ 15A), and 60A for the 'OUT' of the charge controller. (I picked 60A because that is the biggest breaker offered through NAWS's store, and I figured the Xantrex can't output more than 60A anyways.)
Is there a general rule of thumb for sizing? I thought I've read that you just take the max current from the item and multiply by 1.5. That's basically what I did, then rounded up to get to the closest breaker that NAWS offers.
If you want to double check my inverter plans, I have an 1800w and 1000w Xantrex mod sine wave inverter. I won't be using them simultaneously, and I won't have a heavy load on either when running. I plan on:
- 1000w Inverter - 2 AWG - 110A fuse
- 1800w Inverter - 4/0 AWG - 200A fuse
Am I in the ball park with all this?
Comments
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Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizing
Something like a 10 amp breaker at the end of each series string .... 20 amp at the controller input .... 60 amp OK on controller output.Is there a general rule of thumb for sizing? I thought I've read that you just take the max current from the item and multiply by 1.5.
As to the wire size; how far are you running? -
Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizing
From PVs to controller about 75'. I was thinking 8 AWG. Inverters will easily be within 3' - 4' of batts.
I figured the fusing for the panels and the charge controllers would be up in the air since there is an almost infinite amount of combinations you could do. How would the manufacturer know if you were imputing 12v at 6A vs 90v @ 5A? I've been reading the manuals of the two controllers I'm torn between but haven't seen that info yet. I'll do some more digging. I just figured there was a formula you could use when trying to plan this stuff out since it varies sooooo much. -
Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizingstereoman405 wrote: »Just need some help figuring out what size breakers to put in the following locations:
- Combiner box at PV array.- Just before charger controller.- Just leaving charge controller, heading into batts.My other locations, such as inverters, I'll just be using the manufacturer recommended wire size and fusing.
For specifics I'll have (4) REC 210's in (2) series strings put into parallel at my combiner, then hooked up to a 60A Xantrex controller connected to a 12v bank.- REC 210 Specs: 28.1v Vmpp & 7.5A Impp.My math led me to a 15A DC breaker for each 'series' at the combiner (56.2V @ 7.5A), and a 30A DC breaker for the 'IN' of the charge controller (56.2v @ 15A), and 60A for the 'OUT' of the charge controller. (I picked 60A because that is the biggest breaker offered through NAWS's store, and I figured the Xantrex can't output more than 60A anyways.)
Remember that wiring and circuit breakers when "rated" for 60 amps is the maximum safe limit where fusing/breakers/etc. will begin to trip. For actual 100% rated current, you need the NEC 1.25 factor... So, a 60 amp circuit should never be more than:- 60 amps / 1.25 = 48 amps
- 60 amps * 1.25 = 75 amps minimum (80 amps next standard rating)
Is there a general rule of thumb for sizing? I thought I've read that you just take the max current from the item and multiply by 1.5. That's basically what I did, then rounded up to get to the closest breaker that NAWS offers.
For solar installations they want 1.25x1.25=1.56 as their margin of safety for the solar panel Isc current (I think NEC is out of their minds for some of this--but it does not hurt to have heavy wires).... Also, the whole safety multiplication issue really depends on PWM or MPPT type charge controllers. PWM cannot limit heavy currents and can burn out. MPPT does control current/power (switch mode power supply)--and is more rugged in this respect.If you want to double check my inverter plans, I have an 1800w and 1000w Xantrex mod sine wave inverter. I won't be using them simultaneously, and I won't have a heavy load on either when running. I plan on:
- 1000w Inverter - 2 AWG - 110A fuse
- 1800w Inverter - 4/0 AWG - 200A fuse
Am I in the ball park with all this?- 1,000 watts * 1/10.5 volts * 1/0.80 * 1.25 = 149 amp minimum
- 1,800 watts * 1/10.5 volts * 1/0.80 * 1.25 = 268 amp minimum
Also, check the manuals--I am just using generic numbers to make the above calculations.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizing
Wow, thanks Bill, so to sum up, ASSUMING I'm NOT planning on adding any panels in the near future:
- No need for combiner box / breakers where I need to parallel my two series together. (I'm guessing I could just use a Multibranch Connector?)
- No need for a breaker at all pre-charge controller, except for 'shutoff convenience'.
- Assuming I'll be pushing the MPPT to the full 60A, put an 80A fuse between it and the battery bank. Closer to the bank the better.
- Inverters = OK to step back on fusing, just do the math first to make sure I'm not pushing it.
- Forgot to mention my AC to DC backup charger. If I'm using a Trucharge 20, I should put a 25A fuse between it and the batts?
I'm curious why I essentially don't need any fusing pre-charge controller. Do the panels themselves already have protection built in, or is the current so low with a smaller setup like this that its just a non issue? Unless of cource I'm misunderstanding here. -
Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizingstereoman405 wrote: »- Forgot to mention my AC to DC backup charger. If I'm using a Trucharge 20, I should put a 25A fuse between it and the batts?I'm curious why I essentially don't need any fusing pre-charge controller. Do the panels themselves already have protection built in, or is the current so low with a smaller setup like this that its just a non issue? Unless of course I'm misunderstanding here.
PWM are like a switch--Closed, current flows. Switch Open, current stops. No ability to limit current to XX amps maximum.
With MPPT controllers--however, they are both current and power limited by the electronics. So, you can put (at least some) MPPT controllers directly on a 24 volt lead acid battery bank and the controller will not take any more power than it needs/exceeds its specifications.
Switched-mode power supply - Wikipedia,
Sort of like a battery charger or any electronic power supply on a 120 VAC main... They are naturally current/energy limited unless something fails--The reason for Fuses/Breakers to protect the home's wiring.
-Bill
PS: Read about Buck Mode power supply here... Many/most MPPT charge controllers are some version of this type.Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizing
Awesome news. You just cut down some of the cost and complexity I was looking at. Though I can already see the next hurdle....
How do I transition from the MC4 multibranch connector to the 8 AWG I was planning on running the 75' to the MPPT?
Or for the simplicity would it be worth the loss to just use one of these pre-made cables: http://store.solar-electric.com/100fomc4so2e.html Even though its 10 AWG?
(I found this referenced in another thread that could be helpful for others with the same "fusing at the p[panels" question: http://www.nmsu.edu/~tdi/pdf-resources/CC125.pdf ) -
Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizing
Or get the 3 Foot MC4 Extender Cable Male/Female
Version... Just cut in 1/2 and splice to your home run.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizing
I thought of that, but I though I'd need a box to enclose the splice. What's the best way to splice without a box? Can I just "butt connect" with heat shrink tape to keep the water out? Or would soldering be better?
Related - Would it be worth putting all 4 panels in a 116v series to keep the loss down, or would that be pretty inefficient for the MPPT to step from 116v down to 12v? Would I need fusing then with a 4 panel series? -
Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizingstereoman405 wrote: »I thought of that, but I though I'd need a box to enclose the splice. What's the best way to splice without a box? Can I just "butt connect" with heat shrink tape to keep the water out? Or would soldering be better?
Just curious if there is an answer to his question? -
Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizing
I would put the splices in a box, get a "handi box", put two holes in the bottom. Run the wires down then up into the box, makes a drip loop. After you've made your connections, silicone the holes so you don't make a wasp home.Related - Would it be worth putting all 4 panels in a 116v series to keep the loss down, or would that be pretty inefficient for the MPPT to step from 116v down to 12v? Would I need fusing then with a 4 panel series?
If your controller can handle the voltage and you won't go over voltage on cold days, yes you can do that. It will cut down your line losses. If you only have one series string, then you won't need to fuse. If, you have multiple series strings, then you need to fuse. -
Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizingI would put the splices in a box, get a "handi box", put two holes in the bottom. Run the wires down then up into the box, makes a drip loop. After you've made your connections, silicone the holes so you don't make a wasp home.
How would you recommend making the actual splice? Just butt connect?If your controller can handle the voltage and you won't go over voltage on cold days, yes you can do that. It will cut down your line losses. If you only have one series string, then you won't need to fuse. If, you have multiple series strings, then you need to fuse.
This is probably a separate topic, but would one big series be better then to two smaller strings put into parallel when light shading might be an issue? -
Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizingHow would you recommend making the actual splice? Just butt connect?This is probably a separate topic, but would one big series be better then to two smaller strings put into parallel when light shading might be an issue?
I don't know about the shading issue but, my high voltage string out performs my medium voltage string under low light conditions. -
Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizing
It is important to know the Max voltage for your MPPT CC and then look at the Vmp since you are at high elevation.
In winter you might/will exceed the Vmp with edge of cloud effects and the cold temps. You will need the temp correction factor, per degree, for your panels, and then calculate the adjustment for min temp. to see what the 'cold max V is...
HTH
Eric
KID #51B 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
West Chilcotin, BC, Canada -
Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizingwestbranch wrote: »It is important to know the Max voltage for your MPPT CC and then look at the Vmp since you are at high elevation.
In winter you might/will exceed the Vmp with edge of cloud effects and the cold temps. You will need the temp correction factor, per degree, for your panels, and then calculate the adjustment for min temp. to see what the 'cold max V is...
HTH
Eric
I just ordered an Outback FM 60 which claims a max input of 145v I believe (shooting from the hip here). My panel specs are here:
http://www.wholesalesolar.com/pdf.folder/module%20pdf%20folder/REC_SCM_solar_panels_specs.pdf
Vmp = 28.2 X 4 = 112.8V
That should be enough of a cushion even on a sunny winter day right? How do I factor the temp correction just to be sure? -
Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizing
for the max to a cc you should be looking at the voc (voltage open circuit) and your pv is 36.3v. 4 in series is 4x36.3v=145.2v at 25 °C.
this is from the fm60 pdf,
PV Open Circuit Voltage (VOC) is 150 VDC absolute maximum coldest conditions / 145 VDC start-up and operating maximum
pretty close. now the pv specs for temperature differences from 25 degrees c is as,
Temperature Coefficient of Voc (mv/°C) is -104
now to freezing that's 25 x .104v = 2.6v to be added to the original 145.2v for 147.8v. if you go below freezing then it'll add more and this is cutting it very close and would depend on your lowest recorded temperature. personally that's cutting it too close for me, but is technically ok if that max isn't possible to reach. -
Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizingfor the max to a cc you should be looking at the voc (voltage open circuit) and your pv is 36.3v. 4 in series is 4x36.3v=145.2v at 25 °C.
this is from the fm60 pdf,
PV Open Circuit Voltage (VOC) is 150 VDC absolute maximum coldest conditions / 145 VDC start-up and operating maximum
pretty close. now the pv specs for temperature differences from 25 degrees c is as,
Temperature Coefficient of Voc (mv/°C) is -104
now to freezing that's 25 x .104v = 2.6v to be added to the original 145.2v for 147.8v. if you go below freezing then it'll add more and this is cutting it very close and would depend on your lowest recorded temperature. personally that's cutting it too close for me, but is technically ok if that max isn't possible to reach.
Hmmmm, well I know for a fact that it does get below freezing regularly where the setup wil be at. Sounds like its best to not push it here. Not worth a $500 CC for 1%-2% wire efficiency gain......
Thanks for the help. That could've been a costly learning experience. -
Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizing
do know it is not required that all pvs go in series as that can be arranged as 2 in series paralleled with the other 2 in series unless you have need of a 48v output for a 48v battery bank, but you can go up to 3 in series with no problem. -
Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizingdo know it is not required that all pvs go in series as that can be arranged as 2 in series paralleled with the other 2 in series unless you have need of a 48v output for a 48v battery bank, but you can go up to 3 in series with no problem.
Ya I had originally planned on (2) 2 panel series paralleled together. This just got me thinking I could do one large series and gain some wire efficiency and save a few $$ in multbranch connectors. I think I'll just stick to the original plan now. -
Re: Help with breaker / fusing sizingstereoman405 wrote: »Ya I had originally planned on (2) 2 panel series paralleled together. This just got me thinking I could do one large series and gain some wire efficiency and save a few $$ in multbranch connectors. I think I'll just stick to the original plan now.
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