Overpanelling vs Buying new Victron Charge Controller (Help !!!)

Mr.Cockburn · April 7

Hi Everyone,

I'm finally switching to LifePo4 batteries and decided on LiTime, specifically their new 12V 560AH battery with Low Temp Protection.

I also ordered their 60A MPPT charger with Bluetooth but now I'm having doubts the controller can handle my solar array comprised of 6 Kyocera KD185 GX LPU's, wired in a Parallel/Series configuration....

So now I'm looking for real world opinions on good (and simple) Bluetooth 80A MPPT Charge Controllers. (Currently set on a Victron 150V 85A Smartsolar Tr Ve. Can.)
** Or ** would simply "overpanelling" the Litime 60A MPPT be ok for the couple of times that I actually go over its rated wattage ?

I would love to get opinions as I want to do this right 😅

Here are the specs for the panels and controller, hopefully this will work because I already ordered all items :

As a reference, my current Outback FM80 is setup exactly the same way with no problems whatsoever, charging a 12v battery bank (Currently 2 Crown CR430)

-Panel Specs: Kyocera KD185GX-LPU (6 panels in Parallel/Series, 2 strings in series of 3 panels wired in parallel giving approximately 46Volts (actual) going into the Controller)

Open Voltage 29.5V
Short Circuit Current 8.58A

-LiTime 60A MPPT Charger with Bluetooth specs:
Max panel Input 900w for 12v, 1800w for 24v, 2600w for 36v, 3200w for 48v

Max Solar Input Voltage: 150V

Battery Voltage 9v-64v

Sooooo..... Do I overpanel the LiTime 60A SCC or just buy a Victron 150V 85A ?? 🫣

BTW: I know that my Outback FM-80 could possibly do the job but I would really like Bluetooth connectivity and alway found the FM-80's menus quite confusing !! 😵‍💫

Thanks, your advice is very much appreciated !!!

littleharbor2 · April 7

Personally I would stay with the 60 amp controller but I would wire the panels 3S 2P in other words three in series and only two strings which will eliminate the requirement for fusing each individual string when you have three strings. You're still well within the voltage limits of your controller and you're not that much more over the wattage limit of the controller. I'm curious what the actual output of those old panels are

NANOcontrol · April 7

I have 3KW of panels into a 500W controller. Never had any issues. For me it is the perfect solution.

Mr.Cockburn · April 7

Thank you both for your input, it's a relief to know that my small derogation from the max wattage specs of the 60A may not be an issue after all.

As for the performance of my older panels (and I agree !), I can give you an update when it's all running if you'd be interested to know, and with pleasure too ☺️

Currently, charging my 2 Crown CR430 batteries the panels have no problem giving 60a peaks to them when the sun is right, and I believe that I had set max amps to the battery @ 60 or so when I first set everything up (It's been a while... maybe 2010? I'm getting old 🤣) Actually asked a bunch of questions on this very forum back then to make sure I was starting things off right (it was my first solar system).

This is when batteries are maybe at 60% DOD or so (my guess) but typically they'll put off an easy 12-20A even on overcast days (but with "bright" sky if that makes any sense). Never really have an issue charging my batteries up and in the short, snowy winter days of December, January and February I'll just start up the generator and plug in the Iota DLS 55 (with IQ module) and top them off.

Can't wait to see now with the better input Amp capacity of LiFePo4's to really see what they are capable of putting out for longer periods !!!

Do any of you have any experience with LiTime or Victron products ?? I'm always interested in getting your opinions if so !! 👌

Thank you both for your input, keep 'em coming !!🤘🤠

littleharbor2 · April 8

Well it kind of sounds like you're going to get the same charging performance you're gonna peak at 60 amps, it's gonna clip it's 60 amps and it'll stay there as long as you're putting out more than that from your solar array. If you want to see higher performance you're going to need that 80 amp controller

The reason that people overpanel is situations similar to yours would be for better performance when You have suboptimal insolation you start charging earlier, stay charging later and on good days you peak at your 60AMP limit of your controller and that's all you'll ever see through that control.

Mr.Cockburn · April 8

That's great, I was actually wondering what the max wattage "clipping" would be like. I was a bit concerned the SCC would shut down for a moment, like maybe a 15min reset or something like that.

BB. · April 11

In general, a MPPT charge controller, has the capabilities to safely throttle its output to max listed current, and automatically dial back to low output if the controller gets hot (keep controller in cool location with good airflow).

As long as you meet the rest of the controller's requirements (minimum/maximum solar input voltage, battery voltage, use fuses/circuit breakers to protect wiring from short circuits, etc.), you should be OK.

-Bill

Mr.Cockburn · April 13

Hi Bill, thanks for your input !! I'm happy to say that everything was plugged in today and all is functional, easy swap !!! So far the controller seems to handle the overwattage with no hiccups 👌
Even around 3pm my old (😆) panels were pumping 56A to the battery after having used a Hairdryer as an "extreme" load for a couple of minutes. Battery recharged super fast afterwards to settle back to 100% shortly on the Victron Smartshunt 👌 Very impressed so far !!!

Mr.Cockburn · April 13

Quick question though concerning my 80A Charger (when needing to run the generator);
Please look at the picture included: Right now the charger Negative is plugged directly to the battery, AFTER the Victron SmartShunt. Should I relocate it to my (negative) distribution box instead (before the shunt, on load side) ?? I'm thinking that yes, but just want to confirm.

Thanks !!!

BB. · April 13

In general, you want the shunt to battery connection to be just that... No other sources/sinks on the "battery side" of the shunt.

All loads and sources should be on the "system side" of the shunt so that the controller(s) can manage the current flow into/out of the battery, and give you the "best" (always and estimate) of the state of charge of the battery at any time.

Having, for example, your generator charging on the battery side of the shunt just confuses the system readings and decision points (is battery full/empty/charging/discharging/etc.). And this will appear as State of Charge "drifting" from actual battery SoC.

Review the Victron manual to be sure.

-Bill

Mr.Cockburn · April 13

Hi Bill, I agree and decided to connect both leads of the 80 A charger directly to the busbars instead. Just did it this morning (10:45 am here right now).
Thanks for confirming and here are a couple of pics of my install and some readings I got this morning as well. Extremely impressed so far with the charge capacity of the Battery; this morning (8:30 am) I was at 87% and now at 10:45 they are just about full already !! (98%)

Thank you all for your insights, I appreciate it ☺️🙏

Mr.Cockburn · April 13

Here are the pics:

Overpanelling vs Buying new Victron Charge Controller (Help !!!)

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