Telecom Generator

new2PV · March 2016

You can;t do any mods the inverter is dipped in epoxy, you only can convert to AC by getting spare parts from an Eu3000is. You wont be able to charge any thing over 51.5 volts at 56 the unit shuts down. Only use it for emergency as long time low charging will ruin the batteries.

dcx3000 · March 2016

Okay I'm charging 48v 400ah lithium batteries with lestronic II. Works great. So alluding to some previous posts in this thread:

A friend of mine has a Alphagen and directly connected it to the inverter after starting it up on batteries, and then disconnecting them. No issues with the inverter, maybe the DC signal is pretty good out of this unit?

I'm am thinking about doing the same but unsure of how I do this. I will be connecting the dcx3000 to a samlex/cotek 3000w 48v inverter. The inverter I guess needs a source of current to start and I'm wondering if like the posting above says I need to jump the inverter to get it to work then apply load by plugging in my lestronic chargers then disconnecting from the batteries and just leaving the supplied load on the inverter with the batteries out of the equation.

From what I have seen any standby amps these produce is next to nil on my system and I have it jumped down to 4ga wire after it leaves the generator. The above method if it works will provide from 15 to 30 amps depending on if I can run two chargers from one inverter or if I will have to use two inverters one for each charger when I'm away from dock.

dcx3000 · March 2016

Otherwise these do provide close to 30amps each so far in my testing. I have them supplying all the load I can produce from two 3000w cotek 48v inverters and you would not do that easily with AC so roughly 75amps. The only way I can make more load for these generators running in parallel is to run the electric outboards. This will be the real test as each Ray Electric Outboard can use up to 80-90 amps if taxed. I will never use that many amps from them as it would be a waste that would not provide much return in terms of speed over ground.

All I'm looking to do is have them run the charger Lestronic through the Cotek inverter. I have tried to simulate load when the generators running and plugging the chargers in but it senses there is no load so I have to seperate out the chargers from the system. I have even tried to run them through my 440hva controller to no effect. When it does sense load it transfers instantly and supplies the current for my two water heaters, induction cooktops, infrared heaters etc... So in that respect I'm quite happy with it.

I have 2160w of solar to supplement the charging with but would miss the steady 30amp from the two lestronic chargers so therefore I have find a way to make that current with the inverter boost remove battery (72ah calb @48v) and then maintain load with dcx3000 plugged in to inverter which then has the lestronic chargers plugged in feeding the current 15-30amps into the big bank 48v 400ah lithium.

dcx3000 · March 2016

Does this sound like it will work to hook up an inverter to the alphagen? Inundated by rain here so can't test right now.

dcx3000 · March 2016

Still raining here in Vancouver... Widespread power outages.... 51.5v at 165amp hours left in the bank. 1.5 amp draw for laptop... Solar input @1amp only

Looks like I get to start a generator and get it figured out today eventually.

dcx3000 · March 2016

No load 51.0v start dcx3000 and it is charging actually from 12 to 17 amps happily so I'm thinking of starting the other one and see what type of output I get...

dcx3000 · March 2016

Started second one and it didn't change the input amps so with two running they still only make 12 to 17 amps. It does effectively cancel any loads I throw at it and provide from -2amps to +6amps of charge in that range it seems while they are running. Overall I'm actually pretty happy with how these will work in the system. Likely I don't even need the second one running until it is time to fuel generator one.

dcx3000 · March 2016

At the most when taxed hard one generator will try and maintain a 0amp draw on the battery and still provide some charge but does run at less than 5amps negative for much of the time. In this respect the generator is dealing with my 8amps of house loads and an infrared heater on low at 20amps. It will still try and charge. Remove the loads and it charges at 5-15amps. Don't think I need the other configuration above at all. I will just have to trust the solar to build the amp hours in the bank to sustainable levels and budget those amp hours accordingly in good and bad conditions.

new2PV · March 2016

What are you trying to do one generator can sustain 50 amps continuous at 48 volts and it would be most efficient to run it at full speed. You might have too much ripple voltage without the battery and eventually take out the caps in the inverter.

dcx3000 · March 2016

Yeah I didn't really like the idea of hooking the generator directly to the inverter and as it turns out they are perfect in design for my system.

new2PV · March 2016

What is the source of the massive power outage? How long can you maintain power?

Imurphy · March 2016

I have one of these units. Its only purpose is to dispatch to prime power remote sites when the installed generators are being worked on or failed. Its not used to "charge" the DC plant, but otherwise carry the load during the maintenance activities. We have had this unit for 4 years and have only used it twice. Both times it worked like a champ. Money well spent? how much would it cost in lost revenue to shut down a microwave relay link for 4 hours while you changed out prime power generators? Our remote sites typically have 2 lead/lag prime power generators and 72hrs of battery. Buying this unit was more of a back up to the back ups back up. Still looks shinny sitting on the rack in the warehouse. Would I buy one? not likely. But some day I may have the opportunity to give it a test load on my home system.

dcx3000 · March 2016

I've got the Alphagens down to a science now. I've both of mine up to my 100 amp shunts for my outboards. My battery bank was down around 50 volts that day and wow. Pulled the cord and not very surprisingly the generator started putting in -60amps. I didn't test them both but perhaps one day although I hardly see the need for two of them running as even at 60amps my batteries will get charged up plenty fast enough. Fat dump and happy at 52.5 volts.

dcx3000 · March 2016

So far as maintaining power. Launched my solar electric catamaran on a Friday afternoon. Went from travel lift to dock and tied off. Went to plug into shore power with my 50amp plug only to realize that wrong plug type. Nowhere to get new plug on Saturday or Sunday. Batteries ran out Monday morning around 4:00 am. Started generator around 48.5 volts.

new2PV · March 2016

You can't do a full charge at 52.5 volts, only about 80% and long term its not good for the batteries.

Dauren · June 2016

Hello to everybody. Planning to build a house and install here a roftop pv system withat a lead acid storage bank. Was thinking for a DC A generator for back up and charging the battery bank during cloudy days. Thanks to your comments I understood that the issue is to keep the voltage rate enough to fill the last 20% of the capacity. The question: is possible to couple a DC powered charger (like this http://www.powerstream.com/dc-input-charger-24-48v.htm) with the solar powered one through a controller?

BB. · June 2016

Dauren,

Welcome to the forum... The charger you pointed to is a DC to DC converter (battery charger). Takes ~24 VDC in (DC Battery Bank) and outputs ~58/54 VDC for charging a 48 volt battery bank. A perfectly good device to use if you have two DC voltage battery banks to run. However, that is not how we typically design an off grid / solar power system--Typically we pick a battery voltage (12/24/48 volts nominal) and an output voltage (usually 120 or 230 VAC 60 or 50 Hz--Depending on country/your power needs).

I would suggest you start your own discussion in the Off Grid power system where you can discuss your needs in detail. In your case, if your house is in Estonia--You will need to use a generator for winter--You can average less than 1 hour of sun in winter--Not enough sun to really use solar power for very much of your needs during that season.

I suggest you understand/measure/estimate your power needs (by season, if it will vary)--Then ensure you have done as much conservation as possible (it is always cheaper to conserve power than to generate it). Then we can design your system "on paper" (battery bank size, solar array, size, AC inverter, backup genset+charger, etc.)--Then finally pick the equipment.

Please do not purchase any solar equipment before we go through the paper design process--It is very difficult to design/build a cost effective solar power system if you start buying equipment+batteries+etc. first, then try to figure out how to configure and install. The system design is highly dependent on your power needs.

-Bill

new2PV · June 2016

The telcom gen will shut down at 56 volts you cant use it for finish charging.

Dauren · June 2016

Thank you Bill, for your comment.
Sure, before buying I have to pass through the estimate-calculate-design process. For now I'm just willing to understand possible issues in the power supply system of the projected house. I guess, it's better to start with a smaller PV system with a properly sized storage bank and a DC generator and then to size it by adding modules and batteries. So the inverter and charger have to have higher capacities for such extension. I'm from Almaty (Kazakhstan) and the solar radiation rate is about 3,5.
What do I want - to couple a DC generator like DCX3000 (there's not a lot of options for variable speed DC generators) with the charger and the PV inverter so it will supply the energy in following scenarios (cloudy days and/or exceeding loads connected):
1. charge the battery bank only;
2. charge the battery bank and power the load through the PV inverter at the same time;
3. power excessive load with the battery bank in parallel.
The priority list:
1. keep the batteries charging cycles correctly in order to maximize the energy passed through them;
2. have the possibility power the peak loads.
I wonder if this is a feasible system? What components would I need (apart PV, battery set, inverter and generator)?
Please refer to the correct topic where it was already discussed if so.
Thanks in advance

BB. · June 2016

Dauren,

Please feel free to start a new discussion (thread) to discuss your needs. We are more than happy to work with you. And we do not (often) point to old discussions as "answers".

I (personally) find it much easier to learn/understand (and less frustrating for you) if we discuss your needs specifically. Every user has their needs and questions which can confuse more than help another reader.

There are several ways to proceed.... Running Off Grid Solar electric power is expensive--It is not much different/cheaper than running a genset--at least when fuel prices are lower). However, it is much less noisy and less maintenance. But more expensive initially (buying all the hardware+batteries+installation costs) going solar vs a genset (generators are "cheap" these days, it is the fuel usage over the next 10-20 years that make genset costs expensive).

There are several tactics you can use.... The first is simply run a genset for construction and the first few months of residence. And use a Watt*Hour+Peak Power meter (and daily readings) to get more knowledge about your loads.

Another is to design a solar power+battery system to run at night/during low power needs. You get lights, radio, cell phone charging, laptop computer, etc. without having to start up the genset... Then use the genset during the day (cooking, washing clothes, well pump to cistern, running shop tools, etc.). Tends to save on fuel (running a typical petrol genset at less than ~50% of electrical capacity can be very fuel inefficient--If you are using diesel, they tend to be much more fuel efficient vs petrol/gasoline/propane engines at "light loads"--Although running a diesel with small loads "all the time" can cause problems for the diesel as it never gets up to full temperature/pressure--"wet stack", carbon build up, glazed cylinder walls).

Just to give you an idea of energy usage:

500 WH per day--Very small system... LED lighting+cell phone charging
1,000 WH per day--Small system. Above+laptop+small pump for water pressure from storage tank
3,300 WH per day--Medium system. Above+full size efficient refrigerator+washing machine+efficient well pump (near normal electric lifestyle in a very energy efficient home--Large enough battery bank to supply larger loads like well pump/larger shop tools. ~3,000 Watt AC inverter support, ~3,000 Watt solar array, ~323 AH @ 48 volt battery bank)
10,000 WH per day--Lots of shop tools, even some air conditioning. For most people, a very expensive system--Larger than most DIY folks should really install by themselves.

-Bill

new2PV · June 2016

As getting back to the generator, use it for emergency use only, or buy An a/c generator and use the charger built in to your solar system. I would suggest a system like the schneider XW6848 inverter charger, as it is good value for its performance.

Solatron · June 2016

I wanted to weigh in on this discussion forum related to the DCX3000.

The dcx3000 is a telecom backup generator as many have posted. I am retired now but worked in the telecom industry for 30 years. I acquired 20 of these generators new from surplus and they are manufactured by Honda for alpha. They are 36/48 vdc gens only and are not modifiable. They are a perfect generator backup for a standalone 48 vdc solar system. Their output is 52.5 vdc in the 48 v setting. 52.5 volts has been a standard float voltage in the telecom industry for near 100 years for both flooded and sealed AGM batteries. These units were used by wireless operators to backup batteries at cell sites that lost commercial power. They are built rugged and are very dependable. No Chinese junk in this platform. Wireless operators decided to stop their use because they were only 3k and they had to drive them to the site and hookup. Most wireless carrier went to a 6k units that were permanently installed.

I use my dcx3000 in two ways.

Since I have a standalone 48 vdc solar system I use the dcx3000 as a night time backup to keep by 48 vdc battery bank from draining too low.

The second way I use the Dcx3000 as a stand alone ac power source without solar panels. I assembled the dcx3000 gen connected to a small (amp hour capacity) batteries (48v string) and a 48 vdc pure sine wave inverter. The gen set manual start is reliable and easy. The system provides me more than 3000 watts of ac power (my inverter is 4K) and if the battery voltage begins to fall I start the generator and I can run for over 6 hours with better quality power than you would ever get out of an AC generator.

I have tried to modify but like many say in this forum the power module is epoxy encased and you don't want to mess with that!

Also I sold these units to golfers. Battery powered golf carts are largely 36 vdc. A friend mounted a dcx3000 on a platform at the rear of his golf cart ( which he uses on his farm) and he never has to worry about running out of battery.

The DCX 3000 is a rugged, dependable and quiet 3k DC power source.

new2PV · June 2016

Its a great generator, but like i said dont expect to put a full charge into your batteries with it, as some people assume you can do.

Telecom Generator

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