My first solar installation, looking for direction

Hi All,
First post here.

We have a 27 foot Komfort trailer, so far I've ditched the WFCO converter and mounted a PD9280 under the front sofa and use it to charge the 2 - Crown CR-235 golf cart batteries I just put in, I also installed a Xantrex SW-600 inverter which is wired to an Iota transfer switch to all out AC outlets in the trailer. We use that to watch the 26" LCD TV and the satellite receiver, I like to watch the news and (unfortunately) my wife watches a couple soaps every day so in total I'd say we watch a max of 5 hours TV a day. We might watch the odd football or Canucks game as well. We shut down the inverter when the TV's not on.

The inverter and converter are wired to fuses in a weatherproof box on the trailer tongue with 7 ft of 4ga and from there I have a short piece of 2 ga to the batteries. I also have a Trimetric I use to monitor things and a Honda 2000 watt generator to charge the batteries, the shunt is in another weatherproof box on the tongue, we're in BC, we camp May to Sept right now, normally a 3 week trip in June and 3 weeks in Sept, but that will change next year when we'll be retired; we pretty much only dry camp, no hook ups.

I'd like to install solar panels on the roof, the trailer was pre-wired with 8ga conductors from the fridge vent to the batteries, unfortunately the route they picked means means it's about a 40 ft run to the batteries. I'd like to be able to use this 8ga if possible, if not I could run heavier gauge down the fridge vent and under the trailer to come up again under the sofa at the front of the trailer where I'd like to mount the controller. Someone suggested I could tap into the existing 4 ga from the inverter to the batteries (through the fuse)

A few months ago I got a quote from the good people that run this forum for the following:
2-140 watt Kyocera panels, a Midnight Solar Kid 30 amp MPPT controller, Midnight solar combiner with breakers, Z mount brackets, and misc items totalling $1,025 US including shipping.
I'm not thrilled about Z brackets, have been reading on here of people making their own L brackets out of alum angle, I like that idea. I was told to wire the panels in series so I could get away with the 8ga I have pre-wired but I've also heard in series my output would really go down if part of 1 panel is shaded, is that true? Being in series means I need the MPPT.

I'm curios about the Solar Cynergy 120 watt panels, I can get 2 of them for the price of 1 Kyocera, they're made in India though, is anyone familiar with them? They're cheap enough maybe I can put 3 of them up there?
https://www.solarblvd.com/product_in...oducts_id=2714

Some have told me the MPPT controllers are a waste of money, that a person is better off with a PWM controller? Either way I'd like to be able to add a 3rd panel later if I need to.

My fishing partner installed a system similar to the one I got the quote for but he was sold a Morningstar Tristar 30 MPPT controller, he also has 4-Trojan 105's. His system worked great on our last trip, his wife watched a lotta TV while we were fishing and he never needed to run his generator once on the 3 week trip, we had a lotta sun that trip, it was hot and not cold enough at night he needed to run his furnace. I like the sound of that, no generator at all! ;)

I'm sure the system I was quoted would work well for me buy I'm just wondering if I could get away with something a little cheaper, soecially with the lousy exchange rate for the Canadian dollar. I wonder why some panels cost twice as much as others, what controller should I use etc, do I need heavier wiring from the panels to the controller etc etc. Any advice for the first timer?
Thanks in advance
Will

<EDIT>
We make coffee in a percolator on the stove and make toast on the stove.

Comments

  • SolarPowered
    SolarPowered Solar Expert Posts: 626 ✭✭✭
    MPPT is good if the voltage has to be converted to amps.
    I prefer the Solar World Panels VS the KYOCERA, (1) 315 watt panel will be a better work horse on harvesting power VS the (2) kyocera panels.
  • Fisherguy
    Fisherguy Registered Users Posts: 4
    I found this:
    http://www.wholesalesolar.com/solar-panels


    The only 315 watt shown is mono, do you know if they make a poly 315 watt panel? Poly are better in low light I think? Price is good though.
  • zoneblue
    zoneblue Solar Expert Posts: 1,220 ✭✭✭✭
    Yes big, almost exactly 2m by 1m. However after about an hour on autocad, a 300W panel just fit better than 3 smaller panels on the space we had here. Long narrow bus conversion, with curved roof. The one downside is that you smash it, you lose the whole kit and coboodle. Lucky theyre pretty tough but you never know about flying stones on a moving vehicle. On teh flip side you talking some of the chepest panels that you can buy, so replacing isnt a big deal.

    Yes two L brackets and a stainless nut and bolt works well, one on the panel one on the roof, because you can remove, adjust, cope with slight curves etc quite well.
    1.8kWp CSUN, 10kWh AGM, Midnite Classic 150, Outback VFX3024E,
    http://zoneblue.org/cms/page.php?view=off-grid-solar


  • SolarPowered
    SolarPowered Solar Expert Posts: 626 ✭✭✭
    Fisherguy wrote: »
    I found this:
    http://www.wholesalesolar.com/solar-panels


    The only 315 watt shown is mono, do you know if they make a poly 315 watt panel? Poly are better in low light I think? Price is good though.


    Mono is better for lower light levels, and requires less angle of incedents. So if you are installing on a flat plane (0* to 15*) mono is better suited.
    Poly is better if you live in a desert with little to no cloud cover annualized, Poly tends to handle higher tempratures, than mono so VMP/VOC is less affected.
    Northern Arizona Wind and Sun has the 315 Solar World in Stock.

    http://www.solar-electric.com/solar-panels-mounts-kits-accessories/solarpanels/solarworld-solar-panels/solarworld-sunmodule-sw-315-monocrystalline-solar-panel.html
  • Fisherguy
    Fisherguy Registered Users Posts: 4
    Hmmm, so I went and measured, there's only one place an 80" x 40" panel would fit, that's the rear left corner, farthest possible from my batteries up front. I have 83.5" from the left edge of the roof to the RV ladder on the right side and 45" from the back edge to the roof vent, so it would have to go longways across the back. Was hoping to mount them up front cuz I figured there's more chance of having the back of the trailer in the shade.
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,613 admin
    Shade just kills solar electric panel production. It depends on how things are configured, but your best bet is to ensure that there is no shade on the panel(s) at all. A vent pipe shadow, or even a rope/electrical wire shadow across the array can kill production by 50% pretty easily.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset