westbranch wrote: »
How old is the house? The period of construction will determine the load factors and standards that had to be met at time of construction... Ask your city building department...
I was thinking 24v with the 10 panels strung in 5 parallel sets of two series 12v(100w)panels.
This should then output ~40 amps at peak. I think that'll fall in line nicely with a 40 amp MPPT CC.
I'm not sure how I would set up the 6V golf cart batteries for the 400AH though.
Organic Farmer wrote: »
I am not in a city, our town does not have building inspectors, as we refuse to pay taxes high enough to hire one.
My roof's structural design exceeds our county snow-load requirement by a little over double.
The problem here is that my roof slope is nearly flat at 1:12 [1 foot of drop / 12 foot of run]. We normally get between 1 and 2 foot of ice/snow pack on our roof, that slowly [like a glacier] slides down slope. It is a large roof [2400 sq ft] so this glacier-like body of ice/snow weighs a few tons. Our chimneys are up at the peak, so there is no weight [or shear-stress] on either of them. But anywhere else that you might put something on our roof, and it would be sheared off.
Cariboocoot wrote: »
Up here no one would use a roof with that low a slope for just the reasons you mention. Greater slope sheds the snow before the build-up gets too deep. There are commercial buildings with flat roofs, which develop leaks and need constant repair. It's better to prevent the problems before they begin.
Your slope would barely shed water. We're it my roof the plans would already be underway for raising the roof.
Which is not to say the roof is always the best place to put solar.
And if I couldn't see the underside of the roof I wouldn't trust it for holding additional weight, especially on a low slope.
BB. wrote: »
What size battery bank/system are you thinking of? Is this a 12 volt @ 400 AH or 24 volt @ 400 AH or what?