Need a little help getting started

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elesaver
elesaver Solar Expert Posts: 185 ✭✭
I'm at the beginning for designing a 12V system. The main goal is to have power during blackouts with the ultimate goal of using the system even during "good" times. I've done some calculations using the worksheet as to the # watts required. That totals 68,500 daily watts. If I convert that to daily amps, it is 5708 amps. Here's where I am stuck. I know I need amp hours, not amps. So, if I divide the 5708 amps by 24, the result is 237. If one 140 W panel delivers 8+ amps, that means I would need 30 panels. I don't think there is space for that; I am making wrong calculations somewhere.

Meanwhile, I have found some 78 ah deep cycle batteries (used) for $35 ea. That seems like a good way to go for a beginning since the panels will be quite an outlay (even if there are not 30 required). There is no history on these batteries...buyer beware kind of thing...but I had bought one two years ago, hooked it up to a solar controller and a small panel at the barn and I can run lights easily. It's not large enough to do anything overnight.

So, that's my story...and I'm sticking to it. Is someone able to help guide me in the calculations? I would really appreciate it. Thank you.
1st system:  24Vsystem with 8 X 300W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 150, Outback VFX 3524 with mate, 2 X 12V  fforklift batteries in series 938 aH,  (Outback PSX transformer, Honda EU3000is...not currently hooked up but available if/when needed)

2nd system:  24V system with 4 X 310W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 200, Cotek 1500W pure sine inverter, Trojan 125 batteries (8 available but "currently" using 4)

Comments

  • jcheil
    jcheil Solar Expert Posts: 722 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Need a little help getting started

    One of the Engineer experts here will give you the details, but in a nutshell, what you are proposing is not going to happen.
    First, never buy used batteries. And, at only 78ah each you would have a MASSIVE number of strings, which is a problem all in itself.

    Also, before others chime in, you need to clarify your loads and let us know what they are. Meaning, how did you come up with that 68,500 watts per day, which in itself is an incorrect term because you would need to know the "watt-hours" per day. And measure those with a kill-a-watt meter over the course of a day or two. And you can't simply do the "math" the way you did because panels rarely put out ther maximum nor do they do so for more than a few hours per day.

    For loads, do something like this:

    1 light, 13w, 6 hours per day = 78watt-hours per day
    1 microwave, 1200w, .50 hours per day = 600watt-hours per day
    1 tv, 120w, 12 hours per day = 1440 watt-hours per day

    TOTAL: 2,118watt hours per day.

    Now, if you REALLY do need to produce 68.5kwh per day, I hope you have (literally) around $300k to invest in this system. That kind of power requirement is not practical in an off-grid (battery-based) system. Grid-tie would save some money and be your best bet if you have access to the gril, but of course you would not have power when there is an outage. And it is going to be a LOT more than 30 panels (likely around 50,000watts of panels [around 200 panels])! And you absolutely would need to be at a 48v system, not a 24v.

    So, let us know your loads. You have to start from there. and DON'T BUY ANYTHING at this point :)
    Off-Grid in Central Florida since 2005, Full-Time since June 2014 | 12 X Sovello 205w panels, 9 X ToPoint 220w panels, 36x ToPoint 225w panels (12,525 watts total) | Custom built single-axis ground mounts | Complete FP2 Outback System: 3 x FM80, 2 x VFX3648, X240 Transformer, FLEXnet-DC, Mate-3, Hub-10, FW500 AC/DC | 24 x Trojan L16RE-B Batteries 1110ah @ 48v | Honda EU7000is Generator and a pile of "other" Generators | Home-Made PVC solar hot water collector | Custom data logging software http://www.somewhatcrookedcamp.com/monitormate.html
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Need a little help getting started

    Welcome to the forum.

    A couple of things you should reconsider right off the bat. First would be a 12 Volt system. Second would be any system at all. The reasons being that 12 Volt systems aren't very practical for most applications and battery-based back-up in general is fairly expensive compared to an efficient generator when it comes to supply power for occasional, short outages.

    Now some terminology. What you're looking at supplying is Watt hours, not simply Watts. If you got this number from a "worksheet" chances are very good that it is extremely inaccurate. One good thing to invest in right away: a Kill-A-Watt meter. You can use that to measure the real power consumption of everything you plug in under actual usage conditions. That will give you a far more accurate Watt hour number than any mere calculation can. These things are worth their modest cost (about $30) for anyone looking into saving energy or building a system or supplying back-up.

    Here's a third thing to forget: bargain equipment like those 78 Amp hour batteries. Used batteries are scrap metal almost all the time. Avoid like the plague.

    As far as using the system "even during the good times" remember that solar energy comes at a very high cost and unless your utility is charging ridiculous amounts per kW hour and/or is dreadfully unreliable it is not worth the investment.

    Now let's talk about supply those Watt hours (if you haven't given up and run away yet). For a back-up system the first thing you determine is the needs for the critical loads. Do not try to supply 68 kW hours a day from solar. That would require an investment around $250,000. No, I'm not kidding. You'd be looking at around 5,700 Amp hours of 48 Volt battery and 35.5 kW of array with about seven charge controllers.

    Scared yet? :D
  • elesaver
    elesaver Solar Expert Posts: 185 ✭✭
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    Re: Need a little help getting started

    Thanks for the first set of advice. No, I'm not scared yet.;) I do want a solar system. I have watched youtubes with examples of what has been done and if they can do it, I can do it. (I'm not trying to be haughty, but you get my drift.) I get the message about the used batteries, so I'll scrap that.

    I'm looking at the worksheet and think that my miscalculations are on the refrig and freezer. The worksheet suggests 1200 watt hours per day and a small chest freezer may be 1000 watt hours per day. I've corrected those errors and now I have a more reasonable idea...I'd like to generate 3-4000 watts per day. Now, that's more like it, I would say. that includes this calculation for the following:

    refrigerator 1200 W hrs/day
    freezer 1000 W hrs/day
    TV 540 W hrs/day
    LED lights 20 W hrs/day
    microwave 400 W hrs/day


    In order to generate 2-3 Kw, I should be able to configure a system. 12V seems the easiest to me but in reading, 24 volts is more efficient. I will have to do more study about panels that can generate what is needed to accomplish the goal. More suggestions are welcomed. And, be advised, I'm not offended with criticism. That's how we learn...or at least, I do. Thanks again.
    1st system:  24Vsystem with 8 X 300W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 150, Outback VFX 3524 with mate, 2 X 12V  fforklift batteries in series 938 aH,  (Outback PSX transformer, Honda EU3000is...not currently hooked up but available if/when needed)

    2nd system:  24V system with 4 X 310W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 200, Cotek 1500W pure sine inverter, Trojan 125 batteries (8 available but "currently" using 4)

  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Need a little help getting started
    elesaver wrote: »
    Thanks for the first set of advice. No, I'm not scared yet.;) I do want a solar system. I have watched youtubes with examples of what has been done and if they can do it, I can do it. (I'm not trying to be haughty, but you get my drift.) I get the message about the used batteries, so I'll scrap that.

    Please do not rely on Youtube as a source of information. There are many videos on there that are fabricated and/or outright lies.
    I'm looking at the worksheet and think that my miscalculations are on the refrig and freezer. The worksheet suggests 1200 watt hours per day and a small chest freezer may be 1000 watt hours per day. I've corrected those errors and now I have a more reasonable idea...I'd like to generate 3-4000 watts per day. Now, that's more like it, I would say. that includes this calculation for the following:

    refrigerator 1200 W hrs/day
    freezer 1000 W hrs/day
    TV 540 W hrs/day
    LED lights 20 W hrs/day
    microwave 400 W hrs/day

    Good, but let's look at this. The numbers for the 'frige/freezer are not unrealistic. Your TV may draw 100 Watts or 200 Watts or just about anything, depending on the size, type, and how it is set up (yes that makes a difference). My 42" LCD would use 540 Watt hours in about 4.5 hours if I let it. 3 hours if I didn't have the backlight turned down. LED lights are nice and use very little power, but it's amazing how easy it is to leave them on. The microwave is going to hit the system for 1000 Watts or more when running, but generally only gets used for a few minutes a day. This is important to remember as the system must supply that 'hit' of high Watts even though the Watt hours is small.

    In order to generate 2-3 Kw, I should be able to configure a system. 12V seems the easiest to me but in reading, 24 volts is more efficient. I will have to do more study about panels that can generate what is needed to accomplish the goal. More suggestions are welcomed. And, be advised, I'm not offended with criticism. That's how we learn...or at least, I do. Thanks again.

    24 Volts is more efficient and easier to deal with from a wiring standpoint. Here's a little piece about system Voltages: http://forum.solar-electric.com/showthread.php?15989-Battery-System-Voltages-and-equivalent-power

    2-3 kW hours is not difficult to achieve, but it's not small or cheap. In the short form 2kW hours would require around 1.5kW of array in most places. In the long form it looks like this:

    2,000 Watt hours AC / 0.90 conversion efficiency = 2,222 Watt hours DC + inverter consumption 480 Watt hours (full-size inverter on all day) = 2,702 Watt hours DC / 24 Volts nominal = 113 Amp hours used * 4 (for 25% average DOD) = 452 Amp hour 24 Volt battery bank.

    That's not unreasonable and can be supplied by two parallel strings of four 225 Amp hour 6 Volt 'golf cart' type batteries which are about the best bargain in batteries these days.

    To recharge that you'd have a 10% peak current target, or 45 Amps @ 24 Volts / 0.77 (efficiency of panels & MPPT controller) = 1402 Watt array.

    Some things can improve this, such as making use of power the panels can generate after the batteries are charged which would otherwise go unharvested. I have nearly the same capacity system but with a small amount of battery and panels because most of the power is utilized this way (during the day) and the batteries need only carry the small overnight load. I also have 3,200 feet of elevation improving my array efficiency (it runs about 82% efficient instead of the typical 77%).

    You can also supply the power by sacrificing some battery life by allowing deeper DOD and thus use less battery and panel.

    We haven't talked budget, but that is an important factor. The 24 Volt system outlined above is going to cost some serious money. You are looking at thousands of dollars for that. Again, not a wise expense for occasional outages. If you want to spend less but still experiment you can scale the project way back and still have enough money for a decent generator. You can even skip the panels and controller and recharge with a generator during the day and run off the quiet batteries at night. Also remember that if the power is out due to inclement weather chances are the panels will be too; they only work in sunshine.
  • jcheil
    jcheil Solar Expert Posts: 722 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Need a little help getting started

    Also, don't forget about some of the things that we overlook:

    Well pump? Or city water?
    Water heater? (Switch to gas, or solar water - because electric water heating it is not practical in a small PV system)
    A/C or Fans? A/C will make the system jump up in size quite a bit.
    Heat? Circulating Fan, etc?
    Things that will be "small" loads but running all the time, (alarm) clocks, motion activated lights, alarm systems?
    And things like DVR's, Cable Boxes, and TV's are always drawing a couple of watts even when they are 'off" because they are waiting for you to click the remote to turn on. (Most of those constant draws can be eliminated by putting them on a power strip and shutting off the power strip).

    Remember even SMALL loads add up, for example, your cell phone charger, may only draw 10w but if used for 8 hours a day, that's 80 Watt*Hours per day.

    One of the best things to do is CONSERVATION. Look at everything you use now and determine if you could live without it, or do it another way that is more energy efficient. Perfect example, you could buy a cheap used fridge for $300 that uses 2kwh per day (or keep an existing one that uses the same amount) or buy a new energy-star one that uses less than 1kwh per day for $700. Well, you would have to spend $1000-$2000ish more money to buy the extra solar/battery capacity needed to run the $300 fridge or just spend the extra $400 now to get the one that uses less now.

    Remember, every "LITTLE" thing adds up.

    And no matter how big your solar installation may be, you will ALWAYS need a generator (in off-grid).
    You have the benefit of grid available so you could use that to make up for the days that the sun doesn't give you what you need, but then again, when the grid is down, you would still want a generator to prevent your batteries from being drawn down so low that it causes permanent damage to them.
    Off-Grid in Central Florida since 2005, Full-Time since June 2014 | 12 X Sovello 205w panels, 9 X ToPoint 220w panels, 36x ToPoint 225w panels (12,525 watts total) | Custom built single-axis ground mounts | Complete FP2 Outback System: 3 x FM80, 2 x VFX3648, X240 Transformer, FLEXnet-DC, Mate-3, Hub-10, FW500 AC/DC | 24 x Trojan L16RE-B Batteries 1110ah @ 48v | Honda EU7000is Generator and a pile of "other" Generators | Home-Made PVC solar hot water collector | Custom data logging software http://www.somewhatcrookedcamp.com/monitormate.html
  • elesaver
    elesaver Solar Expert Posts: 185 ✭✭
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    Re: Need a little help getting started

    OK. Now we're getting someplace. :D I know this is going to cost. With just some investigation without "shopping," I know that 12V 100 W panels are about $275 ea. so if I get 4, that's $1100. The batteries are out of sight but to have 8 ea 225 ah 6V would be $2400 or more. I have a 2000W, 4000W peak inverter but want to upgrade to a true sine. I have a small charge controller (10 amp) but would need to upgrade that. Electricity costs are going to go up, never mind the times that the power goes out. I live in the SE so the sun is available and there are no trees around the area of installation. It just seems "logical" to use the "free" energy of the sun if possible.

    I don't understand why a 24V system would be more expensive than a 12V system unless it's my terminology. If I wire 12V batteries in series, I have a 24V output. If 12V panels are wired in series, they have a 24V output. It would seem that you would need fewer panels and fewer batteries to produce the same amount of power. Have I missed the boat here?

    As far as a generator goes, I don't like the noise or the upkeep...gasoline, oil change, etc. If the power is out, gas stations can't pump the gas or the gas supply is gone, so there you are. Plus, gasoline prices are bound to increase.

    Thank you all for your suggestions and help. I will keep working on this.
    1st system:  24Vsystem with 8 X 300W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 150, Outback VFX 3524 with mate, 2 X 12V  fforklift batteries in series 938 aH,  (Outback PSX transformer, Honda EU3000is...not currently hooked up but available if/when needed)

    2nd system:  24V system with 4 X 310W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 200, Cotek 1500W pure sine inverter, Trojan 125 batteries (8 available but "currently" using 4)

  • jcheil
    jcheil Solar Expert Posts: 722 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Need a little help getting started
    elesaver wrote: »
    OK. Now we're getting someplace. :D I know this is going to cost. With just some investigation without "shopping," I know that 12V 100 W panels are about $275 ea. so if I get 4, that's $1100.

    With a system this size, you MUST start at least at 24v, and 48 will save you in the long run.
    Just the extra cost of the LARGE GAUGE wire needed to handle the current for a 12v system vs a 48v system can be close to the cost difference in the inverter/carge controllers.

    That being said, now-a-days, you would use an MPPT controller and GT panels vs the old "12v" or "24v" panels. They are MUCH cheaper. Your example panel show a cost of about $2.75 per watt. GT panels are less than $1 per watt. Yes, the charge controller will run you $600, but, you can get 400w of GT panels AND the MPPT controller for the same $1000, plus you will have the ability to expand to 5000w of panels on that controller (assuming an outback FM80) just by adding panels.
    elesaver wrote: »
    The batteries are out of sight but to have 8 ea 225 ah 6V would be $2400 or more.
    Sams Club, GC2, 215ah, $89, not sure how you are coming up with $2400???
    elesaver wrote: »
    I have a 2000W, 4000W peak inverter but want to upgrade to a true sine.
    I have a small charge controller (10 amp) but would need to upgrade that.
    Yes, all that you have now would likely not be worth using in the long run. Especially if it is a made-in-china inverter.
    elesaver wrote: »
    Electricity costs are going to go up, never mind the times that the power goes out. I live in the SE so the sun is available and there are no trees around the area of installation. It just seems "logical" to use the "free" energy of the sun if possible.
    Well, you just found out it isn't that "free" now is it :)
    elesaver wrote: »
    As far as a generator goes, I don't like the noise or the upkeep...gasoline, oil change, etc. If the power is out, gas stations can't pump the gas or the gas supply is gone, so there you are. Plus, gasoline prices are bound to increase.

    Just remember, if you bring your batteries down too low even a couple of times, you can kill them - forever. A generator is a MUST in any off-grid system; unless you plan to simply shut off your power until the sun shines again.
    Off-Grid in Central Florida since 2005, Full-Time since June 2014 | 12 X Sovello 205w panels, 9 X ToPoint 220w panels, 36x ToPoint 225w panels (12,525 watts total) | Custom built single-axis ground mounts | Complete FP2 Outback System: 3 x FM80, 2 x VFX3648, X240 Transformer, FLEXnet-DC, Mate-3, Hub-10, FW500 AC/DC | 24 x Trojan L16RE-B Batteries 1110ah @ 48v | Honda EU7000is Generator and a pile of "other" Generators | Home-Made PVC solar hot water collector | Custom data logging software http://www.somewhatcrookedcamp.com/monitormate.html
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Need a little help getting started
    elesaver wrote: »
    OK. Now we're getting someplace. :D I know this is going to cost. With just some investigation without "shopping," I know that 12V 100 W panels are about $275 ea. so if I get 4, that's $1100. The batteries are out of sight but to have 8 ea 225 ah 6V would be $2400 or more. I have a 2000W, 4000W peak inverter but want to upgrade to a true sine. I have a small charge controller (10 amp) but would need to upgrade that. Electricity costs are going to go up, never mind the times that the power goes out. I live in the SE so the sun is available and there are no trees around the area of installation. It just seems "logical" to use the "free" energy of the sun if possible.

    Okay here's one way to save money: don't buy the "12 Volt" panels. If you're looking at a system over with 400 Watt array you can buy "GT" type panels for a lot less per Watt and have enough money to buy an MPPT type controller to connect them up with. Take a look at the per Watt pricing here: http://www.solar-electric.com/hiposopa.html You'll see "12 Volt 140 Watt" panels at around $2 per Watt while the larger "GT" type are near half that. The difference in price per Watt * 400 or more Watts makes up for the cost of the needed MPPT controller.
    I don't understand why a 24V system would be more expensive than a 12V system unless it's my terminology. If I wire 12V batteries in series, I have a 24V output. If 12V panels are wired in series, they have a 24V output. It would seem that you would need fewer panels and fewer batteries to produce the same amount of power. Have I missed the boat here?

    It depends on a lot of things, but chiefly whether or not the systems are the same size in terms of Watt hour ability. If you compare two very basic inverters of the same power from the same company there's little difference in price between 12 and 24 Volt versions. But usually when you go up in Voltage it's because you need greater capacity. The batteries will be a big difference here, as you need enough to supply 24 Volts instead of 12. Sometimes that's the difference between four GC2's and two GC2's. You might also need a different charge controller even though the power is the same because sometimes the ones that will handle 12 Volts will not handle 24. Here's an example of that: http://www.solar-electric.com/ss-10l.html 12 Volt version is $54, 24 Volt version is $5.20 more. For $43 you can get same current capacity but 12 Volt only: http://www.solar-electric.com/ss-10.html So more than system Voltage goes in to determining cost as it varies the equipment choices.

    My earlier comment about saving on a 12 Volt system was based on down-sizing the requirements so that you could use a single set of GC2's (about 1.2 kW hours @ 50% DOD), minimal panel (5% rate to maintain/finish charge, Bulk charging done by generator), and inexpensive inverter around 1.5kW (about $500).
    As far as a generator goes, I don't like the noise or the upkeep...gasoline, oil change, etc. If the power is out, gas stations can't pump the gas or the gas supply is gone, so there you are. Plus, gasoline prices are bound to increase.

    Thank you all for your suggestions and help. I will keep working on this.

    Well the good inverter-type generators are not noisy nor do they use large amounts of fuel. Upkeep is pretty easy too. I've manage 6,000+ hours on a Honda EU1000i with only oil changes. I find gasoline advantageous because the same fuel goes in everything; I don't store it, I keep it on hand.

    There's always more than one way to achieve the same end. :D
  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Need a little help getting started
    elesaver wrote: »
    If I wire 12V batteries in series, I have a 24V output. If 12V panels are wired in series, they have a 24V output. It would seem that you would need fewer panels and fewer batteries to produce the same amount of power. Have I missed the boat here?

    Power is Volts X Amps. Consider your 12 volt 100 watt panels: they have a voltage of about 17.5 and a current of about 5.71 amps. Each panel makes 17.5 X 5.71 = 100 watts.

    Put two of them in parallel, the voltage stays at 17.5 volts, but the current doubles. Thus the power is 17.5 X 11.42 = 200 watts.

    Put two of them in series, the voltage doubles, but the current stays the same. Thus the power is 35.0 X 5.71 = 200 watts.

    Bottom line: two panels make twice as much power as one panel.

    As for "fewer batteries to produce the same amount of power", a similar, but different, logic applies. First, do you really mean "power", or do you mean energy? Batteries store energy (wattHours)... two batteries store twice the energy of one battery... doesn't matter if they are series or parallel.

    If you do mean "power" (watts), that is the rate that you are drawing energy out of the battery. Thus, if you are drawing 20 watts out of a battery bank, the more batteries you have, the longer you can support the load. It doesn't matter whether the batteries are at 12 volts or 24 volts, series or parallel.

    Wires and controllers and inverters are rated by how much current (not power) they can handle. When you double the voltage they can handle twice the power. Thus you can get 4 times as much power through your controller into a 48 volt battery bank as into a 12 volt battery bank, even if the battery banks have the same energy storage capacity.

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • elesaver
    elesaver Solar Expert Posts: 185 ✭✭
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    Re: Need a little help getting started

    OK...I'm beginning to get the gist. Realizing that I started backwards, I am revamping my approach. I've order a kill-a-meter to ascertain the watt hours used for the things that I want to operate. I believe I will also need to begin with being able to power only some necessary items. After I get my measurements complete, I'd like to have some input.

    Meanwhile, I've looked over the battery storage area and the panel-mounting (regardless of the number of panels). It appears that I will need to put the battery bank in the garage which, here in the SE gets pretty hot in the summertime. Is that going to shorten the battery life too much? I don't think there is any other option. As for the panel mounting, I have concerns for the roof...leaking, etc. Yes, there is sealant, etc., is there a better way to mount these? I could build a frame but it would need to be located 40-50' from the batteries. Does this create a power drop?

    One final thing (for now): once the panels are connected to a combiner box, then to the charge controller, then to the batteries, then the inverter...what is the best way to get the power into the house? A separate breaker box would be ideal but all the house outlets are wired to the grid breaker box. I can't see trying to get extension cords from the inverter into different parts of the house where power would be needed. The inverters seem to all have plug-ins and not set up to connect to a breaker box.

    Once again, thanks for helping make sense of things.
    1st system:  24Vsystem with 8 X 300W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 150, Outback VFX 3524 with mate, 2 X 12V  fforklift batteries in series 938 aH,  (Outback PSX transformer, Honda EU3000is...not currently hooked up but available if/when needed)

    2nd system:  24V system with 4 X 310W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 200, Cotek 1500W pure sine inverter, Trojan 125 batteries (8 available but "currently" using 4)

  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Need a little help getting started

    Mounting panels on the roof can create leaks if it isn't done right. If it is done right - no leaks. On the one hand it's a rotten place to have to work, on the other hand it makes them less apt to be stolen and it doesn't take up any 'ground real estate' which might be more valuable.

    Mounting panels on a separate structure can be a lot easier, but close to the ground can also make them easier to steal or be damaged. Mounting them 40-50 feet from the controller means there will be power loss through Voltage drop and that needs to be taken into consideration. The most important thing is to not have the Voltage fall below the level that can charge the batteries. This means having at least typical Vmp for the system Voltage available at the controller input. But if anything this is one of the circuits you can put far away because an MPPT controller will allow you to run the array at higher Voltage, lower current and thus have less loss in the wiring.

    Batteries in a hot garage is asking for trouble. Better they should be outside in their own vented enclosure on the shady side of the building. Heat is worse than cold for batteries.

    As for the AC wiring ... normally you pull the house circuits that will need the back-up power and put them on a sub-panel, then run a line from the main panel to the inverter-charger then to the sub-panel. Wiring up from an inverter with outlets on it limits you to using extension cords or some illegal and questionable double-end cords to feed power to the main wiring through another outlet. Beware that there are all sorts of dangers here, mainly the one where live grid and live inverter have their outputs come together at the same time. Bye-bye inverter!

    There are other methods utilizing stand-alone transfer switches (such as would be used with a hard-wired inverter that does not have a built-in switch). It really depends on where you are trying to get the power to and under what conditions. The only safe ways involve an absolute interruption of the AC mains power to the circuits that will be fed by the inverter. You do not want to have to rely upon 'remembering' to turn the main breaker off.
  • icarus
    icarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Need a little help getting started

    It should also be noted, that a battery based PV system is roughly twice as expensive to buy and install (per watt) as a grid tie system, AND (this is a big AND) it will provide about half as much power, leading to power that is 4 times the cost!

    As a basic rule of thumb, you can reasonably use this formula for a starting point. On a battery system, for every 100 watts of PV instqlled you can reasonably expect about 200 WH of power per day, averged over the year. So if the OP is looking for to generate 3 kwh of power, you are going to need about 1.5 kw of of PV, wth the batteries to go with it. Probably about $5-7000 at today's price.

    Battery based PV makes little or no financial sense. If you are looking for emgency power you are WAY cheaper to buy a genny. Instead of doing a battery based system, consider doing a grid tie instead.

    Icarus
  • elesaver
    elesaver Solar Expert Posts: 185 ✭✭
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    Re: Need a little help getting started

    Your comments are certainly valid, icharus...if we look at today's electricity. What if electric rates triple or quadruple? What if there is no grid? These are also things that need to be considered. Just sayin'.
    1st system:  24Vsystem with 8 X 300W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 150, Outback VFX 3524 with mate, 2 X 12V  fforklift batteries in series 938 aH,  (Outback PSX transformer, Honda EU3000is...not currently hooked up but available if/when needed)

    2nd system:  24V system with 4 X 310W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 200, Cotek 1500W pure sine inverter, Trojan 125 batteries (8 available but "currently" using 4)

  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Need a little help getting started
    elesaver wrote: »
    Your comments are certainly valid, icharus...if we look at today's electricity. What if electric rates triple or quadruple? What if there is no grid? These are also things that need to be considered. Just sayin'.

    That depends on what your electric rates are now, of course. Around here they'd have to go up 10 fold or more before off-grid made sense. That's unlikely to happen. Even in places where grid power is expensive off-grid power is still more so; 2X at least.

    As for the grid going down ... always remember how many people make huge profits from it. That is a major incentive to keep it operational, and one unlikely to change in the near future.
  • icarus
    icarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Need a little help getting started

    What if, what if what if... The bottom line is that batteries represent a significant cost factor in an off grid system, AND they lead to significantly reduced net output.

    I have no problem with "prepping" (not that I have the same concerns mind you!) but people ought to know the ramifications of thier choices. The simple fact is, if you are building a solar system to save money on energy costs, a battery based system is (increasingly) not the way to go. Consider this, if you have a grid tie system and energy costs go up, the value of the out put of your system also goes up. Additionally, batteries are a limited live span item, and will need to be replaced on a regular basis, adding once again to the cost.

    In most cases (save end of the world scenarios) which would you rather have? A grid tie system that essentially gives you "free power" after you amortize the cost for 20+ years, are a battery system that gives roughly half the output at twice the cost, which will in all likelyhood will require at least one set of battery's, probably two in the same twenty years, effectively doubling the cost again?

    Unless you are worried about " the end of the world" it really is a no brainer. If you simply worried about an unstable grid, with occasional down time, a simple genny system is way cheaper than building a battery based system to deal with outages...IMHO

    Tony
  • elesaver
    elesaver Solar Expert Posts: 185 ✭✭
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    Re: Need a little help getting started

    Yes, I am hearing more clearly what is being said. It's my lack of understanding that creates the problem. This is what I know: When the power is out, the grid is down and there is no power. I'd like to avoid that. For the grid-tie method, a disconnect, then, is tripped when the power goes out which moves the power generation from the grid over to a generator which operates until the grid is back up. When the grid is up, solar panels are providing power to an inverter which provides the power to operate the home. There are no storage batteries which is one of the highest costs of the off-grid system and I'm for that, especially since I don't have a good storage place for batteries.

    I'm still processing all of this and still gathering info about what is really needed as far as KWH are concerned. Thank you for your input and attempts to educate me. I'm a 40 watt bulb, you see. It takes a while.:-)
    1st system:  24Vsystem with 8 X 300W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 150, Outback VFX 3524 with mate, 2 X 12V  fforklift batteries in series 938 aH,  (Outback PSX transformer, Honda EU3000is...not currently hooked up but available if/when needed)

    2nd system:  24V system with 4 X 310W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 200, Cotek 1500W pure sine inverter, Trojan 125 batteries (8 available but "currently" using 4)

  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,466 admin
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    Re: Need a little help getting started
    elesaver wrote: »
    Yes, I am hearing more clearly what is being said. It's my lack of understanding that creates the problem. This is what I know: When the power is out, the grid is down and there is no power. I'd like to avoid that. For the grid-tie method, a disconnect, then, is tripped when the power goes out which moves the power generation from the grid over to a generator which operates until the grid is back up.

    Yep--Pretty much that.
    When the grid is up, solar panels are providing power to an inverter which provides the power to operate the home. There are no storage batteries which is one of the highest costs of the off-grid system and I'm for that, especially since I don't have a good storage place for batteries.

    Sort of--But in reality, it almost does not matter. The better way to think of Grid Tied solar... Think of your car. When the motor is not running, the battery supplies power. When the motor (alternator) is running, the alternator supplies power to recharge the battery and the run the lights/electronics/etc. You "don't care" which supplies power (alternator/battery)--Only that the system works "magically". Note that the Battery is what sets the ~12.0 to 14.2 volts of the automotive power system. The Alternator+Regulator sets charging current so that the battery voltage does not exceed 14.2 volts (and over charge the battery).

    For Grid Tied solar--For all the world, the electric utility looks like a giant AC Battery. The utility supplies Voltage/Frequency (and current when needed) to run your home loads. When you have GT Solar (sun is up, voltage and frequency is "good"), the GT Solar supplies energy to run both your loads and "recharge" the utility (turn your power meter "backwards"). If you use the Utility Power, then the GT solar much shut down as it is not designed to run your loads directly (in general, specifically there are "options" out there--But for another post).
    I'm still processing all of this and still gathering info about what is really needed as far as KWH are concerned. Thank you for your input and attempts to educate me. I'm a 40 watt bulb, you see. It takes a while.:-)

    Replace that 40 watt filament lamp with a 7 watt LED. :p

    With solar (and even utility/generator power), conservation is key here. It is almost always cheaper to conserve power than to generator/buy power.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset