Sorry, Another Power Factor Question
jcheil
Solar Expert Posts: 722 ✭✭✭
You all did a great job of explaining the technical aspect of Power Factor in past posts but I need clarification on something.
I have a chest freezer, and running it thru the kill-a-watt meter it shows a power factor of .50
The voltage shows as 120v and the watts shown are 75 and the amps (I believe) shown were 1.2ish.
I don't remember what the va showed.
1) In any event. It is my understanding (correct me if I am wrong) that it means basically 1/2 of the power that is being consumed by this device is being "wasted" in some way?
2) So, does my inverter actually have to supply MORE power to it because of the poor power factor; thus draining the batteries faster? And if I added the proper motor run capacitor would that reduce the draw on the inverter/batteries?
Thanks again for revisiting this; I am sure I was not the only one that appreciated your technical answers yet were still left a tad confused
I have a chest freezer, and running it thru the kill-a-watt meter it shows a power factor of .50
The voltage shows as 120v and the watts shown are 75 and the amps (I believe) shown were 1.2ish.
I don't remember what the va showed.
1) In any event. It is my understanding (correct me if I am wrong) that it means basically 1/2 of the power that is being consumed by this device is being "wasted" in some way?
2) So, does my inverter actually have to supply MORE power to it because of the poor power factor; thus draining the batteries faster? And if I added the proper motor run capacitor would that reduce the draw on the inverter/batteries?
Thanks again for revisiting this; I am sure I was not the only one that appreciated your technical answers yet were still left a tad confused
Off-Grid in Central Florida since 2005, Full-Time since June 2014 | 12 X Sovello 205w panels, 9 X ToPoint 220w panels, 36x ToPoint 225w panels (12,525 watts total) | Custom built single-axis ground mounts | Complete FP2 Outback System: 3 x FM80, 2 x VFX3648, X240 Transformer, FLEXnet-DC, Mate-3, Hub-10, FW500 AC/DC | 24 x Trojan L16RE-B Batteries 1110ah @ 48v | Honda EU7000is Generator and a pile of "other" Generators | Home-Made PVC solar hot water collector | Custom data logging software http://www.somewhatcrookedcamp.com/monitormate.html
Comments
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Re: Sorry, Another Power Factor QuestionI have a chest freezer, and running it thru the kill-a-watt meter it shows a power factor of .50
The voltage shows as 120v and the watts shown are 75 and the amps (I believe) shown were 1.2ish.
I don't remember what the va showed.
1) In any event. It is my understanding (correct me if I am wrong) that it means basically 1/2 of the power that is being consumed by this device is being "wasted" in some way?
Sort of yes and no. How is that for a clear answer?2) So, does my inverter actually have to supply MORE power to it because of the poor power factor; thus draining the batteries faster? And if I added the proper motor run capacitor would that reduce the draw on the inverter/batteries?
Vector Math from Physics (high school). Work is actual "work done". If you have a swing pendulum, it switches between kinetic energy (high velocity at the bottom of the swing) and potential energy (no motion, but the weight is a few inches above the lowest point of the arc).
"We" (people) see work being done as the transfer of energy from one type to another. However, the physicists and engineers do not--From a black box point of view, there is no energy going into or out of the system (other than a little friction). So, no work is being done. Sort of what is happening with your electric motor... Some of the "energy" is sorted in the motor's coils (Inductors) and 1/2 of the cycle the wall outlet is "filling" the inductors with energy, and the other 1/2 of the cycle the inductors are pushing energy back into the outlet (no net work being done for that part of the current flow).
With your measurements, you see ~75 watts and (120 volts * 1.2 amps=) and ~144 VA of "stuff" being used by the motor.- PF = Watts / VA = 75W / 144VA = 0.52 PF
We are used to seeing:- Power = Volts * Current
And that is correct for "simple" systems (powering a filament lamp or electric heater). The "real" equation is:- Power = Volts * Amps * Cos (phase angle between V and A vectors) = V*A*PF (PF=Cos phase angle, among other things)
An "induction motor" typically is very "Inductive" (like a coil vs a resistor or capacitor). And the current into the motor tends to "lag" the voltage sine wave:- cos-1 (0.52) = 59 degrees (current lags voltage by 59 degrees)
One way to look at what this means to "us"... Think of standing in front of a car and pulling it with a rope. If you are dead in front of the car, 100% of your force goes into pulling the car forward. Cos 0 degrees = 1.00
If you stand of to the side of the car (say 59 degrees to the side), then Cos (59) = 0.52 of the force (52%) on the rope goes to pulling the car forward.
So--In terms of rope, you have to have the rope 1/0.52 = 1.92 times stronger to pull the car just as hard as you would if standing in front.
In terms of electricity... Your wiring to do 75 watts worth of work would have only required:- P=V*I; I=P/V
- P=75W / 120V= 0.625 Amps
- P=V*I*PF; I = P/(V*PF)
- I = 75 Watts / (120V * 0.52PF) = 1.20 Amps
And any transformers will have to have a higher VA rating (1.20A * 120 VAC = 144 VA rated).
And, typically, most small AC inverters and gensets are rated in Watts. And their VA rating is the same as the Watt rating (i.e., when PF = 1.0; Watts=VA).
So, in this case, instead of a 75 Watt rated Inverter, you need a 144 VA (and Watt) rated inverter... (larger inverter/wiring to manage the higher current due to "poor" power factor).
Interestingly, on the DC side of the equation, the batteries will only need to supply the real power (75 Watt) amount of energy (neglecting losses).- I=P/V = 75 watts / 12 volts = 6.25 Amps DC (at 12 volts)
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Sorry, Another Power Factor Question
Yes, so you are saying the bottom line is that correcting the poor power factor will not reduce the DRAW on the DC/Battery side it would only help in reducing the need for larger wire on the AC side (if that were an issue)?Off-Grid in Central Florida since 2005, Full-Time since June 2014 | 12 X Sovello 205w panels, 9 X ToPoint 220w panels, 36x ToPoint 225w panels (12,525 watts total) | Custom built single-axis ground mounts | Complete FP2 Outback System: 3 x FM80, 2 x VFX3648, X240 Transformer, FLEXnet-DC, Mate-3, Hub-10, FW500 AC/DC | 24 x Trojan L16RE-B Batteries 1110ah @ 48v | Honda EU7000is Generator and a pile of "other" Generators | Home-Made PVC solar hot water collector | Custom data logging software http://www.somewhatcrookedcamp.com/monitormate.html -
Re: Sorry, Another Power Factor QuestionYes, so you are saying the bottom line is that correcting the poor power factor will not reduce the DRAW on the DC/Battery side it would only help in reducing the need for larger wire on the AC side (if that were an issue)?
Yes, and it will also allow to reduce the rating of your inverter or generator.
--vtMaps4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i -
Re: Sorry, Another Power Factor Question
Perfcect, thanks.
But now I question why the power companies complain that they want to charge more for service to customers with poor power factor?
I guess I was under the belief that they (the power company) would have to produce MORE power than the customer was actually being billed for (thus costing the power company more money to generate it). And since I (and all of us) are making our own power, I guess I thought we would have the same "issue".
But it sounds like with everything explained above, perhaps (with the power company) the poor power factor just requires them to have a larger infastructure to handle the additional "wasted" power?Off-Grid in Central Florida since 2005, Full-Time since June 2014 | 12 X Sovello 205w panels, 9 X ToPoint 220w panels, 36x ToPoint 225w panels (12,525 watts total) | Custom built single-axis ground mounts | Complete FP2 Outback System: 3 x FM80, 2 x VFX3648, X240 Transformer, FLEXnet-DC, Mate-3, Hub-10, FW500 AC/DC | 24 x Trojan L16RE-B Batteries 1110ah @ 48v | Honda EU7000is Generator and a pile of "other" Generators | Home-Made PVC solar hot water collector | Custom data logging software http://www.somewhatcrookedcamp.com/monitormate.html -
Re: Sorry, Another Power Factor QuestionPerfcect, thanks.
But now I question why the power companies complain that they want to charge more for service to customers with poor power factor?
I guess I was under the belief that they (the power company) would have to produce MORE power than the customer was actually being billed for (thus costing the power company more money to generate it). And since I (and all of us) are making our own power, I guess I thought we would have the same "issue".
But it sounds like with everything explained above, perhaps (with the power company) the poor power factor just requires them to have a larger infastructure to handle the additional "wasted" power?
Power companies get their power from generators, which are affected by power factor. They need to be sized for this just as our small gens and inverters do. DC has no Voltage sine wave so the discrepancy between time of maximum current draw and time of maximum Voltage (and therefor lowest current power) available doesn't really enter into it. -
Re: Sorry, Another Power Factor Question
Yes to what you said... Remember that resistive losses are:- Power = I2R
For motors, you can place a motor run capacitor in parallel with the motor (sized correctly, switched with the motor) and bring the current back in phase with the motor (typically to 0.95 PF--Too much capacitor makes for other wild problems). This is typically done by commercial installations with lots of motors (i.e., a refinery). Our utilities in California charge for poor power factor (basically multiply the bill by 1/PF--Where PF is the worst case 15 minute Power Factor in the last 30 or 365 days).
For residential billing, most (all?) utilities currently only charge for "true" kWatt*Hours... The utilities would probably love to charge by kVAH -- It would raise their charges and penalize people that do "conservation" wrong and penalize Solar GT installations too (GT inverters are usually programmed to output PF=1.0 -- A real utility average load maybe ~0.80 PF -- Meaning that the utility still needs to supply the "out of phase" portion of the current (running their generators/moving current through their distribution circuits)).
Capacitors only can "correct" linear inductive loads (like motors). You can also correct capacitive loads with poor power factors using inductors--But that is pretty rare (capacitive loads).
Many electronic loads have poor power factors due to how "cheap" power supplies convert AC power to DC power (computers, lighting, etc.). Basically, the supply charges a "high voltage" capacitor with a diode rectifier before making DC power. This circuit only draws current during the voltage peak. Creating a poor power factor that cannot be corrected with capacitors:
Attachment not found.
For example--Say you had a 1,000 watt of filament lamps and replaced them with 130 watts of CFL or LED with 0.50 PF (pretty typical). And you use them 5 hours a night:- 1,000 watts * 5 hours = 5,000 WH = 5 kWH per night for utility billing
- 130 Watts * 5 hours = 750 WH = 0.750 kWH per night
- 130 Watts * 5 hours * 1/0.50 PF = 1,500 VAH = 1.5 kVAH "worth of current"
-Bill
PS: So while the utility "saves" in fuel costs (less Power sold/used with a bit more losses), their infrastructure needs to support the larger "poor power factor" current--And that current is not available to sell to anyone else (i.e., if their loads are all 0.50 PF vs 1.0 PF, they can only charge for 50% of their "True" generation capacity).Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Sorry, Another Power Factor Question
I understand completely now, thanks again.
Now, if someone could just figure out a way to power factor correct the Iota charges, the world would be a better place.
It's killing me personally (on the generator side).Off-Grid in Central Florida since 2005, Full-Time since June 2014 | 12 X Sovello 205w panels, 9 X ToPoint 220w panels, 36x ToPoint 225w panels (12,525 watts total) | Custom built single-axis ground mounts | Complete FP2 Outback System: 3 x FM80, 2 x VFX3648, X240 Transformer, FLEXnet-DC, Mate-3, Hub-10, FW500 AC/DC | 24 x Trojan L16RE-B Batteries 1110ah @ 48v | Honda EU7000is Generator and a pile of "other" Generators | Home-Made PVC solar hot water collector | Custom data logging software http://www.somewhatcrookedcamp.com/monitormate.html -
Re: Sorry, Another Power Factor QuestionI understand completely now, thanks again.
Now, if someone could just figure out a way to power factor correct the Iota charges, the world would be a better place.
It's killing me personally (on the generator side).
Simple solution: get an inverter-charger. They are far more efficient chargers since they aren't converted DC power supplies.
Although it would be interesting to take an Iota apart and see what's inside it that makes it so insidious. I suspect large capacitors on the output for stabilizing the Voltage against current changes (not really needed in a battery charger). Maybe they do a bad job of winding the transformers. -
Re: Sorry, Another Power Factor Question
The "front end" of the Iota chargers would need a complete redesign to "fix"... You cannot add a capacitor to "adjust" the PF of the Iotas.
The modern Inverter-Chargers, usually, have pretty good power factor and high overall efficiencies. As well as being much more programmable in their charging settings/options.
And the "magic" generator support (make your small generator look "larger" by adding battery power when starting/running heavy loads like well pumps).
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Sorry, Another Power Factor QuestionCariboocoot wrote: »Simple solution: get an inverter-charger. They are far more efficient chargers since they aren't converted DC power supplies.
Yeah, that is the dream when the $ allows it.Cariboocoot wrote: »Although it would be interesting to take an Iota apart and see what's inside it that makes it so insidious. I suspect large capacitors on the output for stabilizing the Voltage against current changes (not really needed in a battery charger). Maybe they do a bad job of winding the transformers.
Would detailed pictures of the inside help you? Or would you actually want to take one apart (in a destructive sense)?Off-Grid in Central Florida since 2005, Full-Time since June 2014 | 12 X Sovello 205w panels, 9 X ToPoint 220w panels, 36x ToPoint 225w panels (12,525 watts total) | Custom built single-axis ground mounts | Complete FP2 Outback System: 3 x FM80, 2 x VFX3648, X240 Transformer, FLEXnet-DC, Mate-3, Hub-10, FW500 AC/DC | 24 x Trojan L16RE-B Batteries 1110ah @ 48v | Honda EU7000is Generator and a pile of "other" Generators | Home-Made PVC solar hot water collector | Custom data logging software http://www.somewhatcrookedcamp.com/monitormate.html -
Re: Sorry, Another Power Factor Question
No--In my humble opinion--For the "standard" AC to DC power supply, it is the rectifying diodes and the "high voltage" (~380 volt nominal, typical) that converts from AC to DC that is the problem.
If you look up a couple of posts, you will see an oscilliscope picture that shows the Voltage Sine wave and the Current Peaks that don't look at all like Sine Waves. That is "poor" non-linear power factor.
A motor would simply have a sine wave current delayed by xx milliseconds which adding a capacitor can "fix".
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Sorry, Another Power Factor QuestionWould detailed pictures of the inside help you? Or would you actually want to take one apart (in a destructive sense)?
It would be necessary to take one apart and "reverse engineer" it. Since built-in chargers do not have such poor PF it clearly is possible to make it better. But the changes might be so extensive as to make modification impractical. -
Re: Sorry, Another Power Factor QuestionI guess I was under the belief that they (the power company) would have to produce MORE power than the customer was actually being billed for (thus costing the power company more money to generate it).
They have to produce more current - but not more power. Thus they have to spend more on copper but not more on fuel.But it sounds like with everything explained above, perhaps (with the power company) the poor power factor just requires them to have a larger infastructure to handle the additional "wasted" power?
Basically yes. They have to spend more on infrastructure to handle lost power. -
Re: Sorry, Another Power Factor QuestionNow, if someone could just figure out a way to power factor correct the Iota charges, the world would be a better place.
It's killing me personally (on the generator side).
Rewind the generator to produce DC (three phase rectified AC would probably work; more phases would be better) then feed the Iota with that. That would _probably_ work since the Iota cares mostly about the voltages after the diodes. Won't work if they use a filament transformer or a capacitive coupling circuit to start up initially.
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