first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

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  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    #32
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    Cheap equipment = waste of money if you are in it for the long term.
    No one should even bother with MSW type inverters if they are serious about the system. The gamble of it working or not with whatever you plug in isn't worthwhile. If you know you will be running induction motors then also know they will work better on pure sine wave. No arguments.

    Curiously your laptop would run off the MSW with no problem, as the power supply it has will clean up the waveform to provide really clean DC the computer needs. It is a myth that computers need pure sine and everything else will run on MSW. It is more like the other way around.

    You can't mix panels with very different specs within the same array. You can, however, feed the same battery bank from multiple arrays of various types each having its own charge controller. Tends to be a nuisance, though, and you're better off providing all the power you need from one matched set of panels through one controller if at all possible.
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  • minisolar
    minisolar Solar Expert Posts: 158 ✭✭
    #33
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    Point taken. Pure sine it is.

    Then Cariboocoot - now that you know how I want to run it - Can you recommend a system:

    Components, different models for components, and suggested prices. I would like to start buying them.

    Along the lines of what BB said: I will not run my tools of the solar. I have a 2000eu generator and it runs all of my tools.

    Also, this water pump I mentioned will work for one time for about 2 minutes, each time I get to the cabin. That is it. Which is why I do not want to do the whole DC pump thing.
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  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    #34
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    I think we're still missing the total Watts maximum load expected. If that is going to be less than 2 kW and the total Watt hours in the same 2 kW neighborhood it shouldn't be expensive or difficult to achieve.

    Example:
    2000 Watt hours AC / 0.9 conversion = 2222 Watt hours DC. If the inverter will be on all the time it will likely draw another 480-720 Watt hours. Total 2702-2942 Watt hours DC. Might as well call it 3 kW hours DC. This is 24 Volt system territory; 12 Volts would require 500 or more Amp hours (50% DOD), 24 Volts only half that. At 25% DOD the battery bank would be as big, but you could fudge a bit and go for two strings of GC2's and/or rely on some power coming from the panels themselves. Usage patterns can be a big factor in system design.

    But let's say you end up with 440 Amp hours @ 24 Volts. 25% DOD is 110 Amp hours or 2.6 kW hours. In your case (if I can remember which system I'm thinking of here) that is over two days, which is why you could possibly cut it in half. Confused yet? I sure am! :D

    My own system uses 232 Amp hour PS2200 East Penn batteries. That gives me up to 2.4 kW hours to work with, and I can pull power 'directly' from panels once the batteries are charged. I have 700 Watts of array, and it runs slightly more efficient due to the high elevation.

    What should you start with? Ordinary golf cart batteries (GC2's). 220 Amp hours @ 6 Volts each, four in series. If this proves insufficient you can run the gen for now, and add more batteries within a year. That' your basis: 220 Amp hours @ 24 Volts.

    Inverters that fit include:
    Samlex 2kW 24 Volt http://www.solar-electric.com/sa2wa24vosiw.html which does not have a built-in charger so you'd get a stand-alone like this Iota http://www.solar-electric.com/ioten25amp24.html for Bulk charging with gen when needed.
    Exceltech 2kW 24 Volt http://www.solar-electric.com/exxp1224vo20.html which again does not have a charger so you'd need the Iota unit.
    Magnum 2kW 24 Volt http://www.solar-electric.com/mams20wasiwa.html which does have a charger built-in.
    Outback 2.5kW 24 Volt http://www.solar-electric.com/outback-power-pure-sinewave-inverter-fx2524t.html which has a built-in charger but needs a MATE http://www.solar-electric.com/mate2.html to program it properly.

    That's just some possibilities, from low to higher priced solution. I would also point out that Xanbtrex makes some 2kW 24 Volt ProSine inverters which you might find a good deal on too. Very good quality units. I wouldn't bother with an XW here because it really doesn't suit the needs.

    Now, to recharge that battery bank at the minimum rate of 11-ish Amps peak current you need in the neighborhood of 350 Watts of panel and a charge controller capable of at least 15 Amps. You might use a couple of "GT" panels which are cheap per Watt and a Morningstar MPPT 15 Controller:
    http://www.solar-electric.com/mosumpsochco.html
    Look at panels here and you can see the higher Wattage ones are cheaper (also larger and have the 'odd' Voltages requiring MPPT for battery applications) http://www.solar-electric.com/hiposopa.html

    The limitation there is the need to add a second controller for any expansion. If you decide to go with "11 Amps now, 22 Amps later, maybe double everything to 44 Amps in future" you probably should by a larger capacity charge controller to begin with. More money, but only spent once instead of buying things twice.

    If you want to stick with inexpensive PWM controllers you'll pay more per Watt for "proper" Vmp panels, but save on the controller itself. At around 400 Watts you're right at the threshold where it's hard to decide which way to go. You'd need 385 Watts @ 35 Vmp to get your charging, so that's a bit difficult to find. You'd probably have to get four 130 Watts panels which is like $1,000 worth and with controller it ends up being the same money as the GT panels & MPPT controller.

    Confused yet?
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  • minisolar
    minisolar Solar Expert Posts: 158 ✭✭
    #35
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    I think I am confused for a couple of reasons.

    First, I do not know why you mention DC... I have said that I WON'T have ANY DC... My system will be purely AC.

    Second, I gave a link that shows exactly my planned usage. Exactly. For example, from the list, I will use the light in my bathroom, which is 19 watts bulb, for 2 hours during my weekend stay - in total. Not per day, per hour, and so on. . If from that you want to calculate daily usage you can - that's just math. But bottom-line, from that data you know exactly what my usage will be.

    Third, why do I need a charge controller? did you mean 'in-case' I don't go for a inverter-charger? or am I missing anything.

    Question:

    I look at my list of usage.... The most straining time for my system will be when one of us (me or my wife) takes a shower in the evening.. The rv pump, water heat, bath room light, living room light, fridge, and tv, might be on in the same time... Which comes in at 325 watts used. Then even if I am wrong about how much power the fridge will consume, and we say taht instead of 7.5watts it will use 100 watts - this still means that at most I will use 500 watts at the same time... Having said this - how about this inverter: http://invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=434&cPath=20&gclid=CLHkie_Wj7kCFQyk4AodiXsAug

    It has 1500 watts of continues usage (three times what I will need in my heaviest load times), it has a built in charger, and a switch box so I can easily plug in my generator into an inlet and have it switch without losing a heart beat. Am I missing anything? If this is a Chinese shi* please let me know... if this one costs about $600 - I will be more than happy to spend more and get a USA or EU made inverter instead.

    Thanks for the info. I appreciate the help.
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  • minisolar
    minisolar Solar Expert Posts: 158 ✭✭
    #36
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    And another inverter that I found at a good price with those options. You guys also carry this brand I believe...

    http://www.greenecosavers.com/product.asp?itemid=178&gclid=CIWlh73aj7kCFUii4Aod0DoAuQ


    Also, what will be the price difference between buying an 'all included inverter (with charger and transfer switch) vs buying them as stand alone?
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  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    #37
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    I mention DC because the AC loads are powered by the DC batteries; in conversion there is loss. So to have 'X' Watt hours AC plus powering the inverter to provide it you invariably need a multiple of 'X' Watt hours DC from the batteries.

    Usage is never exact. You have a plan , but all plans need a certain amount of tolerance to them. The time of day the power is used, for example, can make a difference. Obviously things like lights are usually only used at nights, but if some of your planned power use is during the day after the batteries are charged you get to make use of power from the panels which otherwise would go unharvested. This improves the over-all efficiency of the system and is a good thing.

    You need a charge controller because a photovoltaic array has to have one to charge the batteries properly. The chargers built in to some inverters are for recharging from an AC source such as a generator, not for recharging from PV.

    The Cotek inverter you link to is made by the same company as Samlex. They have almost identical models available. I believe this one is a mobile unit meant mainly for RV applications. I do not see any information about battery charging in the spec sheet; it may have a transfer switch only for taking the loads off the inverter.

    With your maximum load rating at <1000 Watts you could definitely "downsize" the inverter and save some more money. :D This invariably will leave out the inverter-chargers necessitating the addition of a stand-alone charger like the Iota, but it is still cheaper.

    The other you link to is the same or extremely similar to the 2kW Samlex I linked.

    Here is another "downsized" choice from Samlex: http://www.solar-electric.com/sa1wa24vosiw.html
    That is 1kW 24 Volt with a 2kW surge. About $400. It does not have a built-in charger, so there's another $200. Still far below the inverter-charger choices, which start at about the 2kW size and ar over $1,500.

    BTW, none of us moderators are connected with the forum host NAWS. We link to them for initial product reference out of courtesy and convenience. :D
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  • minisolar
    minisolar Solar Expert Posts: 158 ✭✭
    #38
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    Things are starting to click for me and that is mainly because of you. I really appreciate it!

    Than by downsizing, and going to stand alone (inverter and charger instead of charger-inverter), I cut the cost considerably. That is great.

    Will I be able to connect the inverter and charger to a switch box (and inlet of course) so when I want to plug in the generator, for whatever reason, it will be easy and smooth? I know it is possible but how easy is that to do for someone who will not find it easy to wire a light switch :blush:

    Also, I found the pdf for that Cortek inverter - http://www.cotek.com.tw/upload/PDF/ST1500.PDF

    Now that you have more info: anything stands out as missing/or poor quality? In other words - any reason why I can't use it and solve my inverter/charger/switchbox needs in one go?

    They do mention that this type is made for emergency vehicles that needs good transferring switch abilities for life support system.. Again, not sure what this means for me.
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  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    #39
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    That unit has some pretty good specs, including <20 Watt draw for running the inverter.

    The "worst time" on its built-in transfer switch is 50msec, which probably won't disturb most things. If it is too slow some things will 'blip'; lights flash, computers reboot. How annoying would it be for you if that happened?

    You would wire the load distribution to the inverter's AC output and the generator connection to its AC input; when it senses power on AC IN it will switch automatically.

    The only missing bit is that you need the stand-alone battery charger connected to the AC input side so that the generator will activate that as well.

    If you really can't wire a light switch you may find this beyond comprehension. Try getting a book on basic AC wiring from the local hardware and give it a read. You should really be comfortable with wiring before tackling a project like this.
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  • minisolar
    minisolar Solar Expert Posts: 158 ✭✭
    #40
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    Don't worry.. I was slightly kidding.8)

    Then you do think that inverter is good ah? I am torn between the 1000w vs 1500w. It's a $170 difference. Maybe I should make a list to see prices and then decide but as of now - you do agree that this inverter will work, even pretty well, for my system - plus make my life easy with having a simple inlet for the generator?

    Charge controller..... MPPT will cost twice as much which is about $100... how much do I really need that?

    Also, the whole Bulk/Absorb/Float thing - will the charge controller do that automatically or do I need to manually change things? And what do you think about what that person mentioned about how batteries can be ruined if you do not set the charger correctly?

    Also, I see that these controllers have modes on them to allow for the bulk

    Lastly, how much do I really need a monitor like trimetric? Maybe because I am not that familiar with solar I should get one to compensate for my lack of deep knowledge.
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  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    #41
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread
    minisolar wrote: »
    Don't worry.. I was slightly kidding.8)

    That's good. I've done so much wiring I can do it automatically. Having to explain what to do slows me down. :D
    Then you do think that inverter is good ah? I am torn between the 1000w vs 1500w. It's a $170 difference. Maybe I should make a list to see prices and then decide but as of now - you do agree that this inverter will work, even pretty well, for my system - plus make my life easy with having a simple inlet for the generator?

    It looks like a good choice for your application. I have no first-hand experience with Cotek, but I think some forum members have and I've not heard complaints about them.
    Charge controller..... MPPT will cost twice as much which is about $100... how much do I really need that?

    Don't look at the controller alone; look at comparable sized arrays and PWM or MPPT controller. The MPPT controller may be more expensive, but it can allow the use of less expensive per Watt panels. In short form if the MPPT allows you to go from $2 per Watt panels to $1 per Watt panels on a 400 Watt array that's $400 saved on panels which when added to the cost of the PWM controller may pay for the MPPT. If you add in the slight power advantage of MPPT and the easier configuration (higher Voltage array = lower Amps on the longest wire run in the system saves on wire costs) you can see it may be financially advantageous.
    Also, the whole Bulk/Absorb/Float thing - will the charge controller do that automatically or do I need to manually change things? And what do you think about what that person mentioned about how batteries can be ruined if you do not set the charger correctly?

    Charge controllers handle the charging stage automatically. They make the switch based on Voltage, time, and current in various combinations (depending on the controller). The really good controllers can be programmed specifically for particular batteries. Less expensive ones have limited or no choice for, say, Absorb Voltage level and won't have functions like End Amps to control Absorb length. If the charging profile is not correct it can indeed ruin batteries. This includes Voltage set too low or high, too short or long Absorb time, or not enough/too much current. Is easy to ruin batteries; much more difficult to keep them going for years. :D
    Lastly, how much do I really need a monitor like trimetric? Maybe because I am not that familiar with solar I should get one to compensate for my lack of deep knowledge.

    For AGM batteries they are a must. Not so critical for flooded cells; it is much cheaper to check state of charge with a hydrometer for about $10. Once it is working, it tends to stay working. Monitors can also be problematic: if they aren't programmed correctly and starting with fully charged batteries their readings will be wrong all the time.
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  • minisolar
    minisolar Solar Expert Posts: 158 ✭✭
    #42
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    Interesting about the charge controllers.... Then judging from your comment on the trimetric not being needed plus the fact you say that the MPPT will save money and will be easier (that is a big plus for me) - I guess I should really consider it. Why will I be able to run a $1 a watt panel on it and not on the cheaper type of controller? Will the solar panel state that? (only to be used with MPPT, for example)

    Batteries.... I do not shop at costco or sam's club but you are not the only one who mentions their great prices on batteries. I cannot find GC2's for under $100 online - that's for sure... Unless you have a link. If I do make the effort and go to one (costco/sam's) then what do I need to look for? beside the battery saying golf cart, 6 volt, and 220 amp on it. Anything else?

    Also on batteries - I will re-read that battery page but golf cart have maintenance for them? adding water and such? or from when I put them in they are mainly left to themselves?
    Should I just buy this inverter now? It seems like an incredible price and I don't see it offered at the same price anywhere else. Free shipping also! The only thing that is stopping me is - that I don't have to install it yet really - I can keep using the honda for power and I don't want to buy and let it sit just to discover that it has an issue and by then have the company who sold it to me - to tell me that it is my problem now.... thoughts?
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  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    #43
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread
    minisolar wrote: »
    Interesting about the charge controllers.... Then judging from your comment on the trimetric not being needed plus the fact you say that the MPPT will save money and will be easier (that is a big plus for me) - I guess I should really consider it. Why will I be able to run a $1 a watt panel on it and not on the cheaper type of controller? Will the solar panel state that? (only to be used with MPPT, for example)

    An MPPT type controller can take any array Voltage above the minimum needed to charge the system (and below its maximum input level) and down-convert the 'extra' Voltage into additional charging current. As such, you can use two panels with a Vmp of 30 in series through an MPPT on a 24 Volt system whereas with a PWM controller the array Voltage must be in-line with the system Voltage: for a 24 Volt system all panels need to be Vmp 35 and in parallel, no variation in configuration.

    An explanation of MPPT & configuration options: http://forum.solar-electric.com/showthread.php?16241-Different-Panel-Configurations-on-an-MPPT-Controller
    Batteries.... I do not shop at costco or sam's club but you are not the only one who mentions their great prices on batteries. I cannot find GC2's for under $100 online - that's for sure... Unless you have a link. If I do make the effort and go to one (costco/sam's) then what do I need to look for? beside the battery saying golf cart, 6 volt, and 220 amp on it. Anything else?

    Batteries are best purchased locally as the shipping costs can be enormous. I saw GC2's at Costco this week @ $115 CDN, which was not a great price. More so than with any other component you have to shop around for batteries. Any that meet the designation of deep cycle, golf cart type (GC2 or T105 equivalent) would be suitable as they will be in the 220 Amp hour range @ 6 Volts.
    Also on batteries - I will re-read that battery page but golf cart have maintenance for them? adding water and such? or from when I put them in they are mainly left to themselves?

    Flooded cells have to be looked after. Once the system is running properly this will be minimal. I left mine alone at the cabin last October, and come May they were fully charged and needed only 1/4 cup of distilled water per cell. It is a good idea to check them once a month for charge state and water level.
    Should I just buy this inverter now? It seems like an incredible price and I don't see it offered at the same price anywhere else. Free shipping also! The only thing that is stopping me is - that I don't have to install it yet really - I can keep using the honda for power and I don't want to buy and let it sit just to discover that it has an issue and by then have the company who sold it to me - to tell me that it is my problem now.... thoughts?

    My personal preference is to get everything at once and put it all in for just the reason you mention; to make certain nothing is wrong with any of it. You must always remain flexible; by the time you save up enough to buy it all your needs may have changed or the available equipment may have changed. This is particularly a problem with panels which seem to change in specification and availability every six months.
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  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
    #44
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread
    minisolar wrote: »
    I am torn between the 1000w vs 1500w. It's a $170 difference.

    You don't know for sure that the 1000 watt unit can handle the surge of your chest freezer or your power tools. I think your planned use will be pushing, or even exceeding the limits of a 1000 watt inverter.
    minisolar wrote: »
    Lastly, how much do I really need a monitor like trimetric? Maybe because I am not that familiar with solar I should get one to compensate for my lack of deep knowledge.

    Yes, you need a battery monitor to compensate for your lack of knowledge. And after you know everything you will still need a monitor. :D

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
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  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    #45
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread
    vtmaps wrote: »
    Yes, you need a battery monitor to compensate for your lack of knowledge. And after you know everything you will still need a monitor. :D

    --vtMaps

    No, he doesn't.

    An incorrectly programmed battery monitor will cause more trouble.
    With AGM batteries it's the only way to know what's going on, so you'd better get it right.
    With flooded cells a hydrometer is a better choice as it requires no programming, only temp compensation.
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  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    #46
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    voltages can give a rough idea too so it isn't the only way, but it isn't gospel either.
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  • minisolar
    minisolar Solar Expert Posts: 158 ✭✭
    #47
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    Anyone heard/used this MPPT controller -

    http://www.ecodirect.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BZ-Products-MPPT250HV&gclid=CLe61e_GkrkCFZKk4AodLxQAXA
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  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    #48
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    yes, it's junk. stay away from it.
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  • minisolar
    minisolar Solar Expert Posts: 158 ✭✭
    #49
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    Really?

    Sad... Made in USA they write.
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  • inetdog
    inetdog Solar Expert Posts: 3,123 ✭✭✭✭
    #50
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread
    niel wrote: »
    yes, it's junk. stay away from it.
    One very quick sign, without even having any direct experience, is that the "High Voltage" model still only allows a maximum array Voc of 100V. That does not give you much freedom at all to play with string lengths if you are using a 48 volt battery system. Compare that the Midnite Classic 250 which can accept an operating Voc of 250 volts and can tolerate (250V plus Vbat) without damage. That is 298 volts when charging a 48 volt battery!
    SMA SB 3000, old BP panels.
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  • minisolar
    minisolar Solar Expert Posts: 158 ✭✭
    #51
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    Still on the hunt of an affordable inverter... how about this one - http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/abso_2000.html
    more info on it - http://www.kisaetechnology.com/pdfs/KISAE_DataSheet_Abso_Inverter-Charger_IC121040_IC122055_120103.pdf

    Thoughts?
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  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
    #52
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread
    minisolar wrote: »
    Still on the hunt of an affordable inverter... how about this one - http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/abso_2000.html
    more info on it - http://www.kisaetechnology.com/pdfs/KISAE_DataSheet_Abso_Inverter-Charger_IC121040_IC122055_120103.pdf

    Thoughts?

    Looking at the specs, the first thing I notice is that its highest charging voltage is 14.4, and no equalization. Perhaps that can work if you have a charge controller for equalization. I did not see a spec for its power factor when charging.

    I am not familiar with the brand, so I know nothing of its quality or surge handling ability.

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
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  • minisolar
    minisolar Solar Expert Posts: 158 ✭✭
    #53
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    I will have a good MPPT charger.

    How about this one - http://invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=54_111&products_id=451

    Specs: http://www.aimscorp.net/1500-Watt-Pure-Sine-Low-Frequency-Solar-Inverter-Charger-12-Volt.html

    Thoughts?
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  • minisolar
    minisolar Solar Expert Posts: 158 ✭✭
    #54
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    Sorry for the multiply posts but.... I found the magnum 1k mms for $750.... I think this one it is.

    http://www.tacticalwholesalers.com/MAGNUM-MMS1012-1000W-INVERTER_p_93239.html

    Crazy price right?
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  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    #55
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    Of those linked to ...

    Avoid AIMS; they have some really poor inverter designs and I don't trust them.
    KISAE is an unknown entity; never heard of it before.
    Magnum is known and liked by all who have one.
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  • minisolar
    minisolar Solar Expert Posts: 158 ✭✭
    #56
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    Last one before I am pulling trigger on Magnum....

    Sensata... They give 4 years warranty. Even more than Magnum.

    http://www.powerwerx.com/emergency-vehicle/sensata-ev1200-pure-sign-inverter-charger-4200w.html?utm_source=googleShopping&utm_medium=googleShopping&utm_campaign=googleShopping&gclid=CNyikcPjlrkCFUui4AodwA8AXQ

    specs are here:
    http://www.dimensions.sensata.com/sites/dimensions.sensata.com/files/spec_tables/pdf/130981%20EV1200%20Sean%2010-16-12.pdf
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  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    #57
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    i do have the mms1012 and it's a nice inverter. i also have the rc50 remote for it as it gives it more flexibility and programability. i never heard of the other one so i can't comment on it much.
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  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    #58
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    Never heard of that one either.

    I wonder if those specs have a typo, as normally you would expect the surge on a 1200 Watt inverter to be 2400 Watts not 4200.
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  • minisolar
    minisolar Solar Expert Posts: 158 ✭✭
    #59
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    They do mention this spec here as well: http://www.dimensions.sensata.com/product-inverter/1200w-12vdc-pure-sine-ue-series-inverter

    And it is backed by a 4 year warranty.... This is a good one right?
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  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    #60
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    the sensata does not have the charger built into it according to the one link as it shows it up as an option, but the other one says the charger is built in and is 55a so i don't know which to believe. i see there is a remote available for this inverter as well, but who knows the extent it goes with extra features.
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  • minisolar
    minisolar Solar Expert Posts: 158 ✭✭
    #61
    Re: first post - help with connecting panel and good build thread

    Not sure where you saw that - both sites state a 55amp three stage charger - built in.

    I will call them on monday and ask if they heard about anyone using their inverter in RE. The main benefits of this one over the 1k magnum is the 20% more power and 4 years warranty... as far as I can see. It is more expensive though. I found the Magnum for $740 which is $250 less.... I am still torn between the two. Let's see after I talk with them...

    Anyone around here knows where I can get good price on solar panels in NY-NJ-PA area?
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