Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generator
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I took my Honda 2000i generator on an elk hunt to northern Colorado. We encountered fierce winds and driven snow. The generator was outside and working fine when very suddenly it stopped like there was an electrical problem. I had just filled it up with fuel. I replaced the old spark plug which was wet with fuel, but it still would not restart. I dried everything out when I returned home and still could not get it to run. It obviously got pretty wet. Is there a fusible link or something in the bottom of the generator that would cause an electrical problem? Does anyone have any ideas?
Comments
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Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generator
Main problem with these is the main jet getting clogged. The jet is so tiny it is going to happen eventually. Does the genny run on a blast of ether? -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generator
Another possibility is the oil level sensor turned off the ignition...
From another forum I read (candlepowerforums.com) this place came recommended for good pricing on Honda eu2000i motor replacement parts (I don't know anything about the vendor myself).
Boats.net
And, for others that may have missed another post of mine, there is a nice Yahoo forum for eu2000i owners.
eu2000i forum
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generator
Low oil level, or bad sensor like Bill said. -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generatorFrom another forum I read (candlepowerforums.com) this place came recommended for good pricing on Honda eu2000i motor replacement parts (I don't know anything about the vendor myself).
Boats.net
Boats.net is a good vendor. We've ordered quite a few parts from them for my son's 1976 Yamaha DT175C Enduro restoration project and also for a 1982 XT200J project.
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1976/DT175C/parts.html
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1982/XT200J/parts.html
Decent prices, quick service, no problems. -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generatorI took my Honda 2000i generator on an elk hunt to northern Colorado. We encountered fierce winds and driven snow. The generator was outside and working fine when very suddenly it stopped like there was an electrical problem. I had just filled it up with fuel. I replaced the old spark plug which was wet with fuel, but it still would not restart. I dried everything out when I returned home and still could not get it to run. It obviously got pretty wet. Is there a fusible link or something in the botto. of the generator that would cause an electrical problem? Does anyone have any ideas?
"I know your post is dated, but I am trying to figure out a solution to a similar problem. I have the exact same generator. While fueling, I spilt gas over the front of the generator. I start it up, everything was fine. Then like an idiot, i pour water over the generator to wash off the gas. It shut off immediately and will not restart. any suggestions? did you find out if there is a sensor that may have shut it down? Help! -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generator
I'd like to help you, I blew up one of mine up over the weekend ( EU2000 year and half old). It started blowing out smoke like a Nascar with a blown engine sputtered a few times slapping the piston and locked up. I had engine trouble with this one out of the box, they said it was a bad wrist pin and repaired it. Guess it'll get a new engine now, I can't wait to take it in. -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generator
Rick, did you check the oil level? -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generatorRickeglover wrote: »"I know your post is dated, but I am trying to figure out a solution to a similar problem. I have the exact same generator. While fueling, I spilt gas over the front of the generator. I start it up, everything was fine. Then like an idiot, i pour water over the generator to wash off the gas. It shut off immediately and will not restart. any suggestions? did you find out if there is a sensor that may have shut it down? Help!
Your problem could be anything, when my 2000 died and wouldn't restart I checked compression, didn't have any. Pulled the engine apart and found a stuck exhaust valve. replaced valve and and honed out the valve guide, reassembled and haven't had any problems since. I now run just a little bit of 2 cycle oil with the gas to try to lube the guides, but even that may not work for the exhaust valves. Good luck with your problem.
Larry -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generator
Actually, that's an on-going problem with EU2000/EU3000 generators. If they are run at higher loads without using the "Eco Throttle" they are fine. But continuous operation at lighter loads using the "Eco Throttle" doesn't keep them hot enough, nor do they get proper lubrication to the top end. I've seen so many of them that have blown up at the racetrack (they're really popular for power in race trailers in the pits) that some guys have stopped buying them and gone to Kubota or Yanmar diesels in their race trailers because Honda will only warranty them once before they tell you it's "abuse" and you have pay for the third engine.
Unfortunately, the GX/iGX engine is a splash lubed engine, and it's designed for 3,600 rpm operation. Operate 'em hot and work 'em hard and they last just about forever. Let 'em idle and they got problems in less than 2,000 hours.
Now, the guys that got the diesels got a new problem - runaways. They mount these Kubota "silent diesels" on the frame rails in back of the sleeper and they tend to have a problem with stuck fuel racks. So every once in awhile they get a little excitement on pit road from a runaway generator. LOL!
[video=youtube_share;S1Wqi7Paa5g]http://youtu.be/S1Wqi7Paa5g[/video]
No matter what you get you're bound to have problems with it, sooner or later.
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Chris -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generator
Weird.
My Honda EU1000i has 6,000+ hours on it. No repairs. Was used as prime power for 6 months straight when new.
My Honda EU2000i has 5,000+ hours on it. No repairs. Runs in eco-mode almost all the time it is in use, rarely put up to full speed/load.
Both operated on regular gas, cheapest oil I can find, and at 3200 feet elevation. Oil changed every 50 hours as per the manual. I have never even changed the spark plug on either. The 2000 needed a new knot tied in the cord because it frayed.
How do you guys manage to wreck the best-built inverter-generators in the world? -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generatorChrisOlson wrote: »Actually, that's an on-going problem with EU2000/EU3000 generators. If they are run at higher loads without using the "Eco Throttle" they are fine. But continuous operation at lighter loads using the "Eco Throttle" doesn't keep them hot enough, nor do they get proper lubrication to the top end. I've seen so many of them that have blown up at the racetrack (they're really popular for power in race trailers in the pits) that some guys have stopped buying them and gone to Kubota or Yanmar diesels in their race trailers because Honda will only warranty them once before they tell you it's "abuse" and you have pay for the third engine.
Unfortunately, the GX/iGX engine is a splash lubed engine, and it's designed for 3,600 rpm operation. Operate 'em hot and work 'em hard and they last just about forever. Let 'em idle and they got problems in less than 2,000 hours.
That's good to know. Thanks for that Chris. I run my EU 2000 only at full throttle when I use the generator for battery charging. Kind of eliminates the need for a generator with inverter when run like that all the time.
Would using synthetic oil help much with engine wear in these Honda gen sets? -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generatornortherner wrote: »Would using synthetic oil help much with engine wear in these Honda gen sets?
Honda recommends only using oil that doesn't have the Energy Conserving label on it in their air-cooled engines. Those oils have friction modifiers in them that are not suitable for the cylinder head temps that air-cooled engines run at. I don't recall if they mention synthetic in the manual at all, but the only real difference between synthetics and petroleum oils is the base stock used to formulate it. And the synthetics can be formulated so the molecular "chains" don't break down as easily to form other compounds like acids.
There's not too many manufacturers anymore that make lubricating oils suitable for air-cooled engines. The cheapest stuff you can buy is probably better than the "brand name" stuff because it probably might not have all these fancy friction modifiers in it. But getting any oil manufacturer to actually tell you what's in it is like not going to happen - it's Top Secret Stuff.
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Chris -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generator
Yep; cheap, gummy, stick-to-everything oil that hangs on an lubricates rather than slides off to reduce friction. Sometimes friction is a good thing.
And don't use ethanol-blend gasoline!
Having run engines on pure alcohol I can tell you that stuff will wash the lube off faster than you can say "seized piston". -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generator
I think Chris has suggested diesel engine grade oil for air cooled engines.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generatorI think Chris has suggested diesel engine grade oil for air cooled engines.
Diesel spec oil is the only oil formulation left that are suitable for gasoline or LPG/NG air-cooled engines. The additive package in diesel lubricating oil is designed for the high temperatures of turbochargers and to minimize the formation of sulfuric acid from sulfur in diesel fuel. Of course, none of the engine manufacturers will recommend it because every single one of them (Honda included) sells their own (expensive) oil for their engines. So they only tell you to not use automotive oils and use theirs.
But by law (at least in the US) they cannot REQUIRE you to use their oil in order to keep your warranty valid. They can only suggest it.
And 'coot is also right about the ethanol blended gasoline - don't use it! Small engines do not have electronic fuel injection (except for Subaru-Robin). So they don't have oxygen and mass airflow sensors with a computer to adjust air/fuel ratio like automotive engines. They have fixed-size carb jets. E10 or E15 fuel contains less energy per gallon than straight gasoline, so requires a richer air/fuel mixture. Fed thru a carb with fixed jets the engine runs lean and VERY "dry" with exhaust and cylinder head temp way too low for an air-cooled engine. You want stuck valves in short order? Burn E10 in your Honda GX. I think now that Honda says they'll void the warranty on the engine if you burn E15 in it.
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Chris -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generatorChrisOlson wrote: »Diesel spec oil is the only oil formulation left that are suitable for gasoline or LPG/NG air-cooled engines.
Chris, does this mean that synthetic oils (such as Mobil One) are NOT suitable for air cooled engines? --vtMaps4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generatorChris, does this mean that synthetic oils (such as Mobil One) are NOT suitable for air cooled engines? --vtMaps
I know lots of people have used it with good success. But I don't think Honda even makes a reference to synthetic oils unless they have designed an engine to use them and specifically state that in the manual (like for some of their motorcycle engines). Getting into a discussion about "what is the best oil" is worse, most times, than religion or politics.
But the bottom line is that the classifications for automotive gasoline engines do not guarantee that the latest class (API) meets all previous requirements for engines that have specific lubrication requirements like air-cooled engines. The API classes do not deal with that.
With diesels every diesel engine manufacturer has their own specs and tests that they do on lubricating oils. So even though API CJ-4 might be the latest and greatest for diesels due to low ash content for DPF's, they do not use these friction modifiers that basically give oil the qualities of water to reduce pumping losses. If a particular oil doesn't meet the Cat, Mack, Navistar, or Cummins specs - nobody can sell it because nobody will buy it and put it in their expensive diesel engine. So they don't do that nonsense with oils formulated for diesel engines because the manufacturers will send out a service bulletin to everybody that says "don't use it" if it don't meet their specs.
The automotive car and light truck industry is all about fuel mileage and meeting CAFE fuel mileage specs. The heavy duty diesel engine industry is all about millions of miles between overhauls. So I like to let people draw their own conclusions.
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Chris -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generator
SWEPCO 301 15W40 if you can find it locally. All the old Porsche and VW aircooled clubs recommend it. The 15W40 is also their Diesel blend. SWEPCO also states that if your engine dies from a lube problem they will fix it. Or they use to anyway.
Dennis -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generatorChrisOlson wrote: »Getting into a discussion about "what is the best oil" is worse, most times, than religion or politics.
But discussion of "what is the best oil" is permitted on this forum, unlike religion or politics.:roll: --vtMaps4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generatorSWEPCO 301 15W40 if you can find it locally. All the old Porsche and VW aircooled clubs recommend it.
Yep. Swepco 301, Rotella T, Phillips Super HDII, Cenex Superlube 518, Mobil Delvac - anything made for a diesel will more than adequately lubricate any air-cooled engine. I can't say the same about the current crop of automotive light duty oils.
If you really want to spend some money you can also buy Aeroshell or Phillips X/C aviation oil. All aviation piston engines are air-cooled (except for a few notable exceptions like the Rolls-Merlin V1650 and Allison V-1710) and the aviation oils are probably the most "highly qualified" of all lubricating oils for air-cooled piston engines. But they're also high-buck stuff - a quart of Honda GN4 is really, really cheap compared to aviation oil. And we all know Honda is really proud of GN4.
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Chris -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generator
I think the Harley-Davidson synthetics should work well in an Air cooled gas engine. They get brutally hot. -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generatorsolar_dave wrote: »I think the Harley-Davidson synthetics should work well in an Air cooled gas engine. They get brutally hot.
Well..... Harley V-twins don't exactly have a stellar reputation for hanging together all that well. LOL!
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Chris -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generatorBut discussion of "what is the best oil" is permitted on this forum
Yup.
Until it turns political or becomes a religion.
BTW, if you ever look at that little book that comes with so many small engines you often see notations like recommending straight 30 weight oil or even a warning to not use multi-grade oils. Although my Honda manual says to use 10W-30.
People never look in the manuals. Or don't believe them. Honestly; sometimes the people who build this stuff do know what they're talking about. :roll: -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generatorChrisOlson wrote: »If you really want to spend some money you can also buy Aeroshell or Phillips X/C aviation oil. All aviation piston engines are air-cooled (except for a few notable exceptions like the Rolls-Merlin V1650 and Allison V-1710) and the aviation oils are probably the most "highly qualified" of all lubricating oils for air-cooled piston engines.
I looked up these oils on the Web. For some reason, they're all high viscosity oils. Lowest AeroShell is Diesel 10W40. Lowest Phillips XC is 20W50. All the small engines I have specify SAE 30 -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generator
In some apps I use this: http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/EngineOils/PRD~0281720P/MotoMaster+4-Cycle+Lawnmower+Engine+Oil%2C+946+mL.jsp?locale=en
Notes from the description:
"Recommended where service category SN, SM, SL or older specification is required in a SAE 30 viscosity grade"
"Recommended for most non-OHV engines. Not for use in 4-cycle engines with OHV configurations"
"This oil is not suitable for 2-cycle engines. DO NOT mix with gasoline"
"Consult owner's manual for engine oil requirements"
Now where did we just read that? :roll: -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generatorChrisOlson wrote: »Well..... Harley V-twins don't exactly have a stellar reputation for hanging together all that well. LOL!
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Chris
Actually the newer ones do quite well, I have an 2003 FLSTCI with 50K miles on it with 88 inch balanced engine and it is in great shape, never been apart, no leaks, like new in fact. I just converted that one to a Trike last year, my old busted up leg is really too shaky to ride a 2 wheeler. It has only seen Harley synthetics. My buddy has an 2006 FLSTCI and his has even more miles, never been cracked open either.
Now my one owner 1983 FXFG shovel head needs some amount of attention, Andrews B grind, 10.5 to 1 Aries pistons, Barnett clutch, 2002 Fat Boy CV carb, drag pipes, oil cooler, belt primary and belt final drive. But what a hoot to ride with the old 4 speed tranny. The best dealer in town (Buddy Stubs) will still service that old dog, and he refuse to put synthetics in it. Bottom end has never been apart in 30 years, but it wants to leak, just like an old dog near a fire hydrant. Not much mind you but you know it is a Shovel-head. The one time the top end was apart the rod side play was still in specs. He has to tweak it every couple of years to get it past emissions testing and he still smiles every time he sees it. Buddy has one of the same model in his museum. The only thing that really has broken a couple times is the ignition switch and the primary belts, from drag racing it (not broke one in quite a while but then again I am getting a bit older). I sneak it out when SWMBO isn't around, but I pay for it with the pain in the knees and ankle that night.
Treat them right and they do last a long time. I wonder how many 30 year old JAP bikes are still on the road?
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Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generator
If this wanders off into a discussion of motorcycles it's getting killed. Especially if it turns to "my bike can beat up your bike" junk. -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generatorCariboocoot wrote: »If this wanders off into a discussion of motorcycles it's getting killed. Especially if it turns to "my bike can beat up your bike" junk.
Oops! You're right. I just posted a reply to that and deleted it. Need to stay on topic.
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Chris -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generatorCariboocoot wrote: »Although my Honda manual says to use 10W-30.
Does the manual only say to use 10W-30 for the EU2000? Or does it have that temp chart in there that shows SAE30 for warmer temps?
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Chris -
Re: Troubleshooting Honda 2000i generatorChrisOlson wrote: »Does the manual only say to use 10W-30 for the EU2000? Or does it have that temp chart in there that shows SAE30 for warmer temps?
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Chris
Good question. I'm going out there tomorrow (I think) so can check.
This has not been a good year for being at the cabin; I've only visited three times for a few hours. Not getting anything done.
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