Solar Boat Questions

Solarboatguy
Solarboatguy Registered Users Posts: 5
BB. wrote: »
It really depend on what makes sense to you (bang for the buck, what sort of outages are you planning for).

When we start with loads--We don't even look at hardware/batteries/etc... We look at your needs.

For short term outages (1 day to 2 weeks)--Solar Power is difficult to justify from a dollar and cents point of view. For security of your home and family--It can make sense, but you have to be very sure what your minimum needs are that you wish to support.

Say you can run a genset for 1 week to power a fridge + freezer. The fresh food will be gone in a week--And you will have to decide how much you wish to pay to support a freezer after that... For somebody living off the land (hunting), running a fridge for 3 months may make lots of sense.

For a city dweller (like myself), the lack of water (no well) and sanitary sewer (no city power/pumping) may force me out of the home before a couple of weeks.

For me--I sort of look it as camping--Just enough lights, some way to get clean water (filter, chemical, boiling) and cooking/rehydrating dried/canned foods, etc. I don't need much electricity for that.

If you only want enough power for LED lights, small tv, computer, etc... 1 kWH per day may be enough on a 300 Watt TSW inverter.

If you want to run a fridge+above+well pump+washing machine -- Probably closer to 3.3 kWH per day on a ~1,500 Watt TSW (recommended) inverter.

The system you started with is closer to 0.5 kWH per day--So 2-6x larger (and more costly).

Also--Do you want it to be "portable" or permanently attached? Size of solar panels can be an issue (140 Watt panels are easier to move around vs 250 Watt panels--But 250 Watt panels are much less expensive). Something like $2 per Watt for smaller panels and $1.20 per Watt for larger panels (of course, the price of panels is highly variable--So you may do better or worse--Need to look at price delivered to your door step including shipping+insurance+taxes etc.).

-Bill



I am very new to solar plans and posting on forums. Please bare with me. Old guys trying new tech stuff is different to say the least. Please be patient as you guys are working with pencils and I'm working with crayons here
I really appreciate the information on you site and has been a great help so far.
Your comments regarding grounding the inverter (which I don't need or plan to use) and the solar panels. Where would I ground these panels to on a boat. Back to the battery?? I have 4 ea 24 volt panels at 160 watts. The initial plan is to use the 4 panels to charge the 4 12 volt batteries on a small 14 ft pontoon boat. It has a 24 volt trolling motor. The system on the boat has two of the batteries wired at 24 volts to run the trolling motor and two that are wired at 12 volts to run lights etc and are wired back to the 24 volt side to give added time to the 24 volt side. My guess is they all draw each other down at the same time.

I wanted to wire the 4 24 volt solar panels in parallel to get the amps up to around 17 to 20 amps. The hope was to be able to run the trolling motor maybe at 1/3 power with just the panels, and then putting in a switch so I could have the panels charge the batteries when the boat is not in use. End plan to be able to run on either the batteries or the solar panels. I would need to place the switch before the 30 amp solar controller, but do I still need the breaker after the panels?

Is my plan feasible maybe should be the first question LOL
Thanks

Comments

  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,642 admin
    Re: Solar Boat Questions

    Welcome to the forum Solar Boat guy.

    I have moved your questions to its own thread. It usually is less confusing if your questions are the focus of your thread.

    Boat grounding is a difficult question to answer easily.

    There are the basic safety grounds. There are problems with electrolysis eating away prop and motor bearings, ship board power/dock power, and lightning/radio grounding.

    So--Rather than jumping in on a detailed and totally irrelevant (to you) discussion... Some quick questions.

    Is there a gasoline motor or generator on the boat? Is this purely electric propulsion from battery bank? Will this be at a dock with an AC battery charger? Andy lights/AC power/etc. on board?

    Where will the boat be operated (amount of sun per day). Roof rack mounted panels (probably flat, no tilt).

    There is an issue with needing both 24 volts and 12 volts (running/cockpit lighting/radios)... In general, it is a very bad idea to have a 24 volt battery bank and draw 12 volts from the middle of the bank--It forces the batteries "out of balance". We can work around it a bit to get 12/24 volts from a 24 volt bank, but it usually costs significant amounts of money (24 to 12 volt converter)--So there may be a choice to go 24 volt only for lighting or even going with a small/efficient AC inverter and go with 120 VAC lighting/power.

    Grounding such a system (small pontoon boat) is not an "operational issue". A solar power system can be "floating" to all metal on the boat and work very efficiently and safely. Grounding is mainly done for safety reasons (electric shock, short circuit protection, lightning protection, etc.). Are any of those issues for you? Any local Coast Guard inspections? etc.?

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Solarboatguy
    Solarboatguy Registered Users Posts: 5
    Re: Solar Boat Questions

    Fourth time trying to post a reply but eveytime I hit reply it blows me out of the forum.

    Thanks Bill for all the help. I posted a reply yesterday but I must have not done it incorrectly as I can't find it today. I will try again.

    OK.. the current boat is an old injected molded plastic 14 foot pontoon with foam filled pontoons so on this boat, the issue of electrolysis may not be a problem. At present it is a total electric boat. The plan was to get in to a small,cheap boat to test the theory of being able charge the 24 volt system from 4 - 24 volt 165 watt solar panels wired parallel to get the amp to 12 to 15 amps. I thought the 12 volt and 24 volt system on the boat was a bit odd, but it was a cheap experiment. I wanted to see how long it would take to recharge the batteries, and if it is possible to run the boat at 15-20% power using just the solar panels. The boat has a 24 volt trolling motor and only does about 3 - 4 miles an hour at best.

    Let me give you a bit of the long term plan to help explain the quest. If I can make the system work on this small boat, I plan to move forward with a much larger standard aluminum pontoon boat. I am planning to retire in Baja Mexico so any shore power will be a very limited option, but on the upside, I have plenty of sun. The boat will be powered by a 48 volt electric outboard from Ray model 400 (http://www.rayeo.com/motors/motor-info/specifications/) running off 8 - 6 volt batteries. This will only push the boat at 4 -6 knots but I will be retired and have plenty of time. It will have a 25 - 30 hp out board as a "Just in case " option but being on a fixed income I want need to limit fuel costs as much as possible. As for lighting and accessories I can either step down a portion or run a separate 12 volt battery. I'm not going anywhere at night and the Mexican Coast Guard is very Flexible.

    The panels will become the much needed shade area on the boat. Plans are to use 12 - 24 volt 175+watt panels mounted 3 across and 4 rows down the boat making a cover 8' wide X 20 -21' long The plan was to wire 6 sets of two panels serial to get to the 48 volts, then wire the 6 sets in parallel to get the amps up to 20 - 25+ amps. The center row of panels would be flat and the side panels would be slanted at about 20 degrees on each side making a convex roof 20+ feet long. Again the theory is to charge the batteries, or run the boat on solar alone at 20%. Running on solar alone is not meant to be the primary power source, just a back up if something goes south on the water. If it is possible to charge the system in 8 to 12 hours then I can fish every other day for nothing, I'm a happy camper. Most likely will never take the batteries down more than 30- 40 % as my house is on the water and not more than 7-10 miles from 7 different species of fish. 12 miles if I want to add Marlin. LOL

    I just don't want to fry a part of the system for a rookie mistake. I don't have the money to do this twice, and if the theory doesn't work then I can save myself a lot of time and money. If is does work, there will always be a fishing pole waiting for you in Baja, or any other solar wizards out there.

    I guess the bottom line is will this wiring plan work or am I just the crazy old guy on the block.
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,642 admin
    Re: Solar Boat Questions

    SBG, not sure why you had problems with the forum software... Make sure you have cookies enabled for this site, and if you have any sort of "java scripting" disabled, make sure java script is turned on.

    If you are on a smart phone--I use Android and find the browsers to be a bit "sensitive" on this forum when posting.

    In the upper left of the editing window is a button with an A/A symbol. If you click once on that button, it toggles to "dumb edit" mode which is easier to use on my phone.

    Regarding design of your system... Pretty much anything you want to do, can usually be done pretty safety.

    However, solar power systems tend to produce less power than most people think, and most people use more power than the realize. So, knowing you loads (amp*hours or kWH or watt*hours per day) usage lets us understand the amount of power you need, then we can work backwards into sizing the battery bank and solar array.

    However, we can work the other way too--You have XYZ AH of AB voltage battery bank. Or you have room for ZZZ watts of solar panel, etc...

    And if you have local power at the dock for recharging, then you may not be limited by the size of solar array (i.e., solar will help, but charging at the dock will supply the rest of the needed power).

    So, looking at the motor website:

    Attachment not found.

    A "400 series motor" (nice match at 48 volts, the other voltage are "not standard" for solar RE equipment). There is a 10:1 scaling between low speed and high speed current (amps). That is not a small spread in power usage (38 hours to 2 hours on the same "example" battery bank--Look to be 6 volt ~220 AH golf cart batteries). And that is too "battery dead"--Your batteries will not last long if taken to dead often.

    So, rather than me randomly picking some numbers... You give me what your desires are (battery bank voltage/Amp*Hours, solar array sizing, xy amps at ab hours for motor, etc.).

    And then I can answer your question "exactly without going out in the weeds with possibly irrelavent guesses/answers on my part.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Solarboatguy
    Solarboatguy Registered Users Posts: 5
    Re: Solar Boat Questions

    Wow thanks for the great response time!! Let me see if I can get you the info in a way so we both understand it. (more me than you) I have been looking at two ways as far as battery power. 8 of the 220AH as you mentioned and a single 48 volt - 1541 AH battery for small industrial equipment . http://ressupply.com/store/batteries-and-enclosures/flooded-lead-acid/deka-m100-27-maintenance-saver-battery-single-cell-steel-box-1541ah-icm1027stb

    I am still trying to get info from the dealer as to total size and weight and the cost difference in a plastic box than the standard steel box. If it is not something crazy I can recess the battery in a center pontoon with a plastic case to balance the boat. The cost appears to be roughly the same as the 8-220AH and will last much longer with deeper discharge capabilities.
    If I understand the question right, I would buy the solar panels in wattage necessary to charge either way.

    I think I am correct in at 220 ah, I need 5% or roughly 11 amps to charge 1 battery or 8 to 12 hours to charge all 8. and on 1541 ah, I would need 77 amps Is that right?? If I produce 25 amps from the solar panels It would take 3 -4 days to recharge??

    According to the motor manufacture's chart, I can run for 6 hours at medium speed. For practical purposes that gives me 2 hours out (7-10miles), two back and 2-3 hours trolling around at slower speeds, taking the batteries down to 50%. Sounds like a great day to me. I'm in this for fun. I don't need to make a living fishing. I hope to be done putting in 10 and 12 hour days. ( In theory, wouldn't I still have 6 hours of charge time from the solar panels going back in/consumed to the batteries from the day fishing just building a fudge/safety factor correct?) Most likely I would be running at somewhere between the trolling speed and the medium speed for the most part as the manufacture's claim to fame is you can motor at sailboat speeds for 12 hours a day. ( and you know none of these guys exaggerate)

    If I have the 2100 watt system I described earlier (12 - 175 watt panels) 8 220 Ah batteries, will this work or ???
    2100 watts 1541Ah Will it take the same time to replenish the one large battery?

    Is the 32 amps X 6 hours (192 amps) amount used?

    Maybe if this works, I can build a few for sale here and retire earlier LOL

    I hope this answers your questions.
    Thanks again.
    Joe
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,642 admin
    Re: Solar Boat Questions

    Hi Joe, hope you are finding it easier to post now.

    Regarding Rates of Charge--5% is the minimum that we usually recommend for recharging a lightly used solar power system (not too deep of loads, used on weekends, etc.).

    For systems that are heavily used (daily), use "tall cased batteries", and/or heavy traction batteries (forklift), 10-13% rate of charge is usually a better choice (batteries use more current to stir the electrolyte, heavy plate batteries tend to have higher self discharge as they age and need more solar array power to break even with loads).

    Generally, "golf cart batteries" are going to cost less--And they will not last as long as "higher end" batteries (say 3-5 years vs 5-8+ years for "better" deep cycle batteries which probably cost 2x as much).

    I will also "argue" that "slow boats" are dramatically affected by adverse currents and winds--So, I would be very careful about long distance trips unless you have that reliable gasoline/diesel back up propulsion system (and understand the local currents/winds/forecasts, etc.).

    So--Lets start with some known performance requirements. 32 amps @ 6 hours... Normally, we would suggest a maximum of 50% of battery discharge for long cycle life (traction batteries could go as low as 20% state of charge--but they will be more expensive, heavier, and take a lot of solar array to recharge). Note that the 50% cycling gives you both room for the battery to "age" and a margin of safety for your boat.

    For the moment, lets say you will use good quality golf cart class batteries. You want:
    • 32 amps * 6 hours * 1/0.50 maximum discharge = 384 AH @ 48 volts

    A Trojan T-105 6 Volt, 225 AH Deep Cycle Battery will have ~200 AH capacity at a C/12 discharge rate (6 hour rate to 50% discharge = 12 hour discharge rate).

    So, for a 48 volt battery bank @~400 AH 48 volt battery bank would require 16 of these batteries (two strings of 8 in parallel ~$151 per battery).

    The size of solar array to recharge this battery bank would range 5% to 13% (or as high as 25% or so--but that is another conversation):
    • 2*225 AH * 59 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller derating * 0.05 rate of charge = 1,724 Watt array minimum
    • 2*225 AH * 59 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller derating * 0.10 rate of charge = 3,448 Watt array nominal
    • 2*225 AH * 59 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller derating * 0.13 rate of charge = 4,482 Watt array "cost effective" maximum

    And for a solar array based on the amount of power you use. Lets guess that you get 5+ hours of sun per day (sunny Mexico) from a flat mounted array (need to confirm):
    32 amps * 6 hours * 59 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller derating * 1/5 hours of noon-time sun per day = 2,942 Watt array minimum

    So--Just at a first look, I would guess that "ideally" a 2,942 to 3,448 watt array would be a good range (especially if you use "tall case" batteries and/or "forklift" type batteries).

    If you do not go out to maximum range every day, and you use "short case" batteries... Plus you may have shore power to recharge/backup AC generator (when needed), you could go down to ~1,724 Watt array.

    There is somewhat of a "conflict" between running loads during the day and recharging during the day... Basically, if you have a 5% minimum array (~22 amp charging) and a 32 amp load--Obviously, the battery bank will not recharge when under way (although, the solar array will add significantly to your range on a sunny day).

    So--If you have 1-2 (up to 4) days of "rest" between long distance sailings, you will probably be fine.

    There are other ways to "cycle" a battery bank (i.e., charge to 80% and discharge to 50% every day, and recharge to >90% every 5-10 days--actually a very efficient method of cycling good quality deep cycle batteries)--But we don't really need to discuss that at the moment.

    I would highly suggest you get a Battery Monitor (Victron is another good unit) to allow you to better monitor the how your battery banks are being used/recharged (sort of like putting a "fuel gauge" on your battery bank).

    The fact that this battery bank is on a boat may give you some help with 5% charging on a "tall case battery". Motion of the boat should help keep electrolyte better mixed.

    Anyway--That is a first cut at the basic numbers. Not arguing that my way is the only way--But it is a starting point. Batteries are heavy, expensive, and store a surprisingly small amount of power. Solar power systems make sense when you use the power 9+ months a year--And less sense if it is seasonal usage (batteries are expensive and age even when stored)...

    Just to give you an idea, a ~1,000 lbs for the above battery bank:
    • 440 AH * 48 volts * 0.50 discharge = 10,556 Watt*Hours = 10.6 kWH Hours

    That is about as much "electrical energy" as 2-3 gallons of gasoline through a Honda eu2000i 1,600 watt genset.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Solarboatguy
    Solarboatguy Registered Users Posts: 5
    Re: Solar Boat Questions

    Here are some of the facts re the Ray motor on their boat.
    8 Batteries 16 Batteries
    Top speed 7.2 MPH 2.3 Hours 4.9 Hours
    Cruise 6.1 MPH 5.5 Hours 12.0 Hours
    Cruise 2 5.9 MPH 8.0 Hours 17.0 Hours



    ElectroCat FunDeck LayoutElectroCat Fisher Layout
  • Solarboatguy
    Solarboatguy Registered Users Posts: 5
    Re: Solar Boat Questions

    Just wanted to say THANKS BB for all the great help and info. Working on solutions now.
    I see Mexico on the horizon.
    Joe