Newbie RV Install Question

Reckless Amateur
Reckless Amateur Registered Users Posts: 3
in Solar Beginners Corner #1
Hi Forumites. First time poster here with a basic install question.

I have a VW camper with a fridge that I'm ready to solarize with a removable panel.

First question: is this the right order by which to connect stuff?

100w panel>MC4 connector>40 ft. of 12 gauge wire>12v Marinco "cigarette lighter" connector into the van>controller>fuse panel>deep cycle battery.

Second, is the Marinco connector a decent choice (I'm concerned about current loss)? If it would work, it'd be great, 'cause I can rig it by reusing an existing outlet on the exterior of the van now used for water. If the Marinco connector works for solar purposes (as an inlet), will it also work to power 12V accessories (as an outlet?). If it's not a good choice, what would be a better connector? I obviously need something that is weatherproof. Any other comments on the proposed install?

Thanks for your help in advance. David
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Comments

  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    #2
    Re: Newbie RV Install Question

    Welcome to the forum David.

    I see a missing component (not easy to see something that isn't there): charge controller.

    You should have the panel feeding a charge controller, and the output of that would connect through a fuse to your battery.

    Now as to the quality of the "cigarette lighter" type connector ... with a 100 Watt panel you're looking at maybe 6 Amps tops. This should not be any strain on a lighter outlet unless it is really poor quality. :D

    Another choice might be trailer adapter of the heavier variety (I haven't priced this sort of thing lately so not sure if that would strain the wallet or not). Any weatherproof connector design to handle more than the maximum expected current should work. Don't rely on the vehicle chassis for the negative, however; run a wire.

    You may want a dedicated connection for the solar. That way it can remain active while you do things around the camper. That panel probably won't fully recharge any battery, but it can help keep ahead of the discharge.

    How much battery capacity do you have/plan on?
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  • Reckless Amateur
    Reckless Amateur Registered Users Posts: 3
    #3
    Re: Newbie RV Install Question

    Hey thanks for the reply. I did have the charge controller in there, kinda hidden right before the fuse panel. As for battery, I'm thinking in the 100 amp range. I just have to figure out where I'm going to put it.
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  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    #4
    Re: Newbie RV Install Question

    Ah, that's where I saw it! :p Just out of order.

    Panel-->Controller-->Fuse-->Connector-->Battery

    Would work best. You certainly don't need a 100 Amp controller, as the panel will produce <10 Amps and there's no such thing as a 100 Amp controller. Okay, we'll take that as a typo. :D

    As tempting as it is to use one connection for both solar in and power out I still think it would be better to separate the two, just in case you want to do both at once.
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  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
    #5
    Re: Newbie RV Install Question
    Cariboocoot wrote: »
    Would work best. You certainly don't need a 100 Amp controller, as the panel will produce <10 Amps and there's no such thing as a 100 Amp controller. Okay, we'll take that as a typo. :D

    I think "100 amp" is referring to the battery, in which case I think he means 100 amphours.

    Reckless Amateur, tell us more about the fridge and your other loads... 100 amphours doesn't go too far when powering some refrigerators.

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
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  • Reckless Amateur
    Reckless Amateur Registered Users Posts: 3
    #6
    Re: Newbie RV Install Question

    Yup, referring to the battery and yup 100 amphours. The fridge is a Truckfridge TF49, which draws about 20 amps [amp*hours? -BB] a day, from what I gather. It's a popular replacement for the VW camper set. One more Q: wire gauge to use inside the van? I know there's a wire gauge calculator somewhere, but thought I'd start here. Thanks for all your help.

    Oh, and while I think of it, any suggestions for tiltable stands or whatever you call 'em that I can use with my 100w panel?
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  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,590 admin
    #7
    Re: Newbie RV Install Question

    I would guess it is this one:

    TruckFridge     Model: TF49

    Appears to be rated at 24 Watt average consumption:

    24 watts * 24 hours = 576 Watt*Hours per day
    24 watts * 24 hours 1/12 volt battery bank = 48 AH @ 12 volts (1/2 that at 24v?)

    Looks pretty good for an RV electric--For a home, it is a 1.73 cuft or 49 liter fridge--Not that big for the power consumed.

    If you want a wire gauge chart, the NEC version is very conservative:

    Wire Current     Ampacities NEC Table 310-16

    The ABYC Standards (American Boat and Yacht Council Standards) are a lot more lax:

    http://www.acbsphl.org/Tips_and_hints/ABYC_Wiring.htm

    Note: For low voltage solar wiring, you usually want to error on the side of larger diameter wire to keep voltage drops low (and keep wire self heating losses low too).

    Lastly, for fuse/breaker/wiring ratings, the NEC uses a 1.25 derating standard.

    For example, if you have a 12 amp continuous load, multiply by 1.25 and round up (12*1.25=15 amp rated wiring/fuses/breakers).

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
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  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
    #8
    Re: Newbie RV Install Question
    BB. wrote: »
    Appears to be rated at 24 Watt average consumption:
    24 watts * 24 hours = 576 Watt*Hours per day
    <snip>
    not that big for the power consumed.

    I guess its not too bad when the truck is on the road and generating power, but I wouldn't want to be boondocking with that.

    My DC fridge-freezer is an 8 cu ft model that draws less than 500 wattHours per day. Most of the high efficiency DC fridges use a Danfoss compressor. The overall efficiency depends on the amount of insulation. I'm not sure what compressor the truckfridges use.

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
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