Help me plan my battery system

Syke
Syke Registered Users Posts: 4
Hello all,
I've just stumbled upon your site and spent the last few hours reading various topics. I'm to the point where I need some help designing my battery and eventually solar system. It feels like I'm suffering from "analysis paralysis". :)

I need to add a battery bank, ac/dc power and eventually solar to our food vending truck.

So I will list what basic info I have and please let me know if you need any further info. Thanks in advance for the help.

2 chest style freezers - 11 lra according to the tag. Start up is off the charts on my kill a watt meter and after the meter resets the freezer settles at 150 watts and drops. About .85 kwH for the pair, if I'm saying that correctly.
Various A/C loads - .60 kwH
Various D/C loads - .55 kwH

Total 2kwh

I've scouted the 205ah costco batteries and I'm thinking wiring series/parallel should be easy enough. Since this will be my first system, I think I would like to stick with the basic FLA's. AGM's are tempting but wow are they expensive.

I already have an EU2000i and access to shore power 50% of the time.

Let me know what you think, what you recommend for a charger, inverter, etc. Thanks again for the help.

Comments

  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me plan my battery system
    Syke wrote: »
    2 chest style freezers - 11 lra according to the tag. Start up is off the charts on my kill a watt meter and after the meter resets the freezer settles at 150 watts and drops. About .85 kwH for the pair, if I'm saying that correctly.
    Various A/C loads - .60 kwH
    Various D/C loads - .55 kwH

    Total 2kwh

    Welcome to the forum. .85 kwh doesn't sound right... is that per day? If each freezer draws 150 watts and is running about 30% of the time, that is about 2.4 kwh per day.

    In any case you will need a large inverter to START your freezers, even though you could RUN your freezers on a small inverter. A large inverter is expensive and will consume a fair amount of power just to be turned on.
    I already have an EU2000i and access to shore power 50% of the time.

    Perhaps you could plan your system to NOT power the freezers. Freezers can go a few hours without power and maintain their cold. In a pinch you could run the honda for a few hours.

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me plan my battery system

    welcome to the forum. you do not state anything other than needing battery backup and you've failed to state for just how long you'll need this backup for. in the case of the costco batteries if you have 12v at 205ah then know you don't want to drain them beyond 50% so that leaves 102.5ah useable, but that's at a 20hr rate or a constant drain of 5.125a for 20hrs. this does not equate to draing 102.5a in 1hr as the strain on the battery will drop that down to probably a 60 or 70ah area for 1hr as a good guesstimate. let's say it's 65ah and at 12v that's 780wh and not enough to run your freezers very long. maybe 45 minutes?

    discussing chargers is moot until you know what you need.

    also, if this is to be done in the daytime and you have room on the roof you can add pvs to supplement some of the power, but i suspect it would fall far short in supplying all of the power needed by your loads.
  • Syke
    Syke Registered Users Posts: 4
    Re: Help me plan my battery system

    Thanks for the replies guys.

    If I'm understanding my kill a watt meter correctly, I believe it is per day. The freezers run about 3-5 minutes per hour on average, but I've not accurately measured that. Yet. What do you think the start up load is on these freezers? The kill a watt reads about 1875 watts before it resets. The tag on the compressor reads 11 locked rotor amps.

    The shore power idea I speak of is basically a 15 amp outlet when we can find one. It gives us a chance to not need the generator. We're basically a mobile food vendor/rv. We usually have to supply our own power. Operating off grid at festivals is a big part of our "tour" and being able to run at least some of the day on batteries and/or solar would be a big help. Plus all the other RV/boondocking advantages a battery/solar system brings.

    Thanks again for the help guys.
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,590 admin
    Re: Help me plan my battery system

    For a typical Energy Star Fridge, you are probably looking at needing a 1,500 watt minimum AC inverter for running one of these guys.

    Somebody that can get into the thermostats, you can probably set up a relay or two to have the power go to the freezer first, then if the fridge starts up, switch the AC power to the fridge.

    Note, a lot of this will depend on your appliances. True home style energy star fridges (many times) use electronic defrost timers, so that every time the AC power turns off, it resets the defrost cycle the next time the AC power is on (the switching between to units may cause extra defrost cycles)--Don't know what you have.

    The power load sounds low--but you are probably going to be limited by starting surge for sizing your battery bank. I would suggest a 24 volt system--But lets start with 12 volts because you probably have a good feel for what two golf cart batteries look like (2x 6volt at 220AH in series)...

    Anyway, lets start with a 2,000 Watt AC inverter to power your loads (a "good" 2kW AC inverter can support 4kW of starting surge). And assume that C/2.5 for starting surge support (a few seconds of heavy load to start the compressors and run defrost heaters--if you have those, plus lights, a few fans, etc.)... So, some worst case numbers (conservative battery bank numbers):
    • 4,000 watt surge * 1/12 volts * 2.5 surge current = 833 AH @ 12 volts (or 1/2 that--416 AH @ 24 volts)

    That would be 8x 220 AH @ 6 volt golf cart batteries. You could start with 4x G.C. batteries if you want to try (assuming you don't need 4kW surge).

    Next, C/8 is a good load for flooded cell batteries (that would support your loads for ~4 hours to 50% discharge level):
    • 833 AH * 12 volts * 0.85 inverter eff * 1/8 hour discharge rate = 2,124 Watt AC Load

    Note that the batteries are rated at C/20 discharge rate capacity (~220 AH)--And will be closer to 190 AH--Which will give you less than 4 hours at 2kW continuous load.

    Anyway--if your loads are not too great (closer to 2kW surge and 1kW average maximum continuous load) you could look at 4 instead of 8 G.C. batteries.

    I would also suggest a 24 volt inverter to keep the wiring battery wiring a "reasonable" size.

    If you are back at home base and can recharge at night/use a genset part of the day--It should be doable.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me plan my battery system

    One more thought... there are some ultra-efficient chest freezers that work on 12 or 24 volts DC (Sundanzer or Steca or Sunfrost, for example). No need for a big inverter, and you can get by with less batteries.

    In most home situations it is cheaper to buy a conventional freezer and use the money saved to buy more panels/batteries.

    In a mobile situation the DC freezers may make more sense.

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • Volvo Farmer
    Volvo Farmer Solar Expert Posts: 209 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Re: Help me plan my battery system
    BB. wrote: »
    F

    Note, a lot of this will depend on your appliances. True home style energy star fridges (many times) use electronic defrost timers, so that every time the AC power turns off, it resets the defrost cycle the next time the AC power is on (the switching between to units may cause extra defrost cycles)--Don't know what you have.


    -Bill

    I think turning the power off to a refrigerator with an electronic defrost control would not cause extra defrost cycles. If anything, it would defrost less often. Different manufacturers use different methods, but the control usually measures several criteria, including compressor run time, temperature of the evaporator, and temperature inside the box to determine when a defrost cycle is needed. The newest fanciest ones even measure door openings, ambient temperature, and humidity. Say the control was within ten minutes of deciding it was time to defrost. re-booting the control would set the compressor run timer to zero and the unit would actually skip the scheduled defrost cycle until the compressor run time counted back up to a specified value.
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,590 admin
    Re: Help me plan my battery system

    Every thing is always "it depends".

    We have a couple people here already confirm their refrigerators do start a defrost cycle on power up. But I am sure there are others that do something different.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Syke
    Syke Registered Users Posts: 4
    Re: Help me plan my battery system

    More ideas... thanks guys.

    My chest freezers are the little 5 cubic foot units from HD. They do not have a defrost cycle, lights or fans. Just a compressor.
    I've had them both running off a 15 amp circuit. Only once in the last year and a half have they tried starting at the same time, which resulted in a popped breaker. The chances of them starting up at the same time are very slim, but possible.
    If I run say a 2k PSW inverter, which is not strong enough to start both freezers at the same time, what would happen if they both draw start up loads at the same time? Is there internal overload protection that is quick enough to save the inverter? Maybe there is a way to setup the freezers so they don't have a chance of starting at the same time.

    Basically I'm trying to avoid setting up a huge inverter when 99% of my loads are small. A few lights, stereo, intermittent water pump, etc. Nothing with any start up draws.

    I want to make sure I'm reading the Killawatt meter correctly and my math equation is correct. Can someone break this down for me?
    Per the meter, I'm showing 1.5kwh and 49 hours. This is both freezers running through the meter via a 2 way splitter. ( I know not the proper way to have it setup and I'm sure it is hard on the meter to stay plugged in all the time, but it works for data gathering)

    1500 watts*hours / 49 hours = 30 watts ? [not watts per hour, just Watt]
    30 Watts x 24 (hr) = 720 watt*hours per day?
    720 Watt*Hours / 12 volts = 60 amps*Hours per day?

    Lights/Pump/Fans/Radio/Etc = 1,150 watt*hours / 24 hours = 47 watts [just watts]
    1150 WH / 12 H = 95 amp*Hours per day

    This is all just straight numbers and I'm aware that there is inefficiencies all over the place. Wiring, inverter, etc.

    Am I off base somewhere? [just the units==Watts is actually Joules per Second--So it is already a "rate" like Miles Per Hour]

    Really do appreciate the help guys. Sorry I'm all over the place. It sucks not having a person to talk face to face to, especially when it is a topic that I am very new to.

    :)

    [hope the above clears things up. -Bill B.]
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Help me plan my battery system
    Syke wrote: »
    1500 watts / 49 = 30 watts per hour?
    Average draw is 30 Watts.
    30 x 24 (hr) = 720 watts per day?
    Yup. :D
    720 / 12 = 60 amps per day?
    Except for conversion efficiency and inverter draw. The 720 Watt hours will probably be a bit higher (inverters run around 90% efficient) and the inverter itself can have a pretty healthy appetite depending on what one you choose. In fact many will use about half again as much as the freezers if left one all day (some have standby mode which can save a few Watt hours).
    Lights/Pump/Fans/Radio/Etc = 1150 watts / 24 = 47 watts per hour
    1150 / 12 = 95 amps per day
    As per above.
    This is all just straight numbers and I'm aware that there is inefficiencies all over the place. Wiring, inverter, etc.

    Am I off base somewhere?
    Nope. Just those little inefficiencies that can add up to a lot more than you expect.

    So you've got 60 Amp hours for the freezers plus 95 Amp hours for the other stuff = 155 Amp hours use, not including powering the inverter. Since that could be another 40 Amp hours you might as well say 200 Amp hours use per day. That's a minimum of 400 Amp hour battery bank.
    Really do appreciate the help guys. Sorry I'm all over the place. It sucks not having a person to talk face to face to, especially when it is a topic that I am very new to.

    :)

    Ah, but you've never seen our faces. You should be very glad of that. :p
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,590 admin
    Re: Help me plan my battery system

    Everything above is "right"--Just fixed the units (just like your chemistry/physics teachers kept telling us -- watch the units).

    Yes--Something could be done if you are willing to go into the wiring of one of the coolers.... Just wire up the thermostat of one to a Normally Open/Normally Closed and Common contact.

    For example, Wire this up to the freezer. When the freezer is "off", the relay is "off" and the NC to Common passes power to the Fridge. When the Freezer turns "on", the relay switches to NO/Common which then supplies power to the freezer motor directly.

    You could probably do it another way--Use a timer/programmable relay/setup of some sort... 30 minutes the outlet to the freezer is on and another 30 minutes the outlet to the fridge is on. A timer like this may work for you.

    I am a bit surprised that both units turning on at the same time tripped a 15 amp breaker--Did you possibly have other loads on at the time that may have added to the current draw?

    The inverter should go into shutdown (either just while both loads are present, or possibly you would have to kill DC power to reset--depending on brand/model). While it is not good to over current an inverter--It should not kill a good quality one to have that happen a couple times a year (waiting for all the folks to post that their inverters smoked on the first over current event :roll:).

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Help me plan my battery system
    BB. wrote: »
    I am a bit surprised that both units turning on at the same time tripped a 15 amp breaker--Did you possibly have other loads on at the time that may have added to the current draw?

    The inverter should go into shutdown (either just while both loads are present, or possibly you would have to kill DC power to reset--depending on brand/model). While it is not good to over current an inverter--It should not kill a good quality one to have that happen a couple times a year (waiting for all the folks to post that their inverters smoked on the first over current event :roll:).

    -Bill

    I believe he meant it tripped a breaker while running off utility power, as he hasn't got his solar all set up yet. Normally an inverter will indeed fault and shut down before any CP trips.
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,590 admin
    Re: Help me plan my battery system

    I understand the 15 amp was an extension cord plugged into utility service...

    I am still not sure why two chest freezers/fridges would pop a 15 breaker... The only reason I can think of are a) other loads or b) undersized wiring (too much voltage drop from two motors starting preventing sufficient current for starting).

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Help me plan my battery system
    BB. wrote: »
    I understand the 15 amp was an extension cord plugged into utility service...

    I am still not sure why two chest freezers/fridges would pop a 15 breaker... The only reason I can think of are a) other loads or b) undersized wiring (too much voltage drop from two motors starting preventing sufficient current for starting).

    -Bill

    One of those rare confluence of circumstances. :D Both try starting at the same time and you'd have high current, maximum Voltage drop, and resulting longer starting time for both motors ...

    Or maybe the planets were aligned wrong that day. :p
  • Syke
    Syke Registered Users Posts: 4
    Re: Help me plan my battery system

    Wow quite helpful guys. Thank you much. :D

    Bill thanks for the info on the timer/relay thing. I'm going to look around online and see if I can come up with something.

    I'm thinking maybe run a 2000 watt inverter and just roll the dice on both the freezers cycling on at the exact same time.

    615ah with 6 costco batteries. 820ah with 8 of them.

    I'm planning to invest a fair amount of money into this system so going with the proper heavy gauge wire. Keeping the runs real short. Soldering/heat shrink all the connectors. Pretty much want to do this correctly.

    What is the upper limits of a 12 volt system? 800ah pushing it?


    800ah would give me roughly 2 days between charging if I went the entire 50% Dod. Or better yet, I could go every other day on the charging and keep my Dod a little more shallow.

    Keeping in mind that I have a eu2000, what charger would you recommend? I'm thinking the small size of my generator is going to be a limiting factor and maybe I should go with the largest charger the honda can run.

    What about an inverter? Any suggestions there? I'm guessing the freezers will run cooler and maybe a little more efficient with the psw vs the msw. Which is a bummer for me because I'm pretty sure everything else I have would run just fine on the cheaper msw. Oh well. Such is life.

    Thanks again for the help guys.
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Re: Help me plan my battery system

    Upper limits on 12 Volts ... Well 800 Amp hours would pretty much max out a large charge controller (FM80, MNC150) but you can use more than one charge controller. The thing is, when you have that many batteries in parallel you run into problems keeping current even throughout all. That's why I wrote up this piece: http://forum.solar-electric.com/showthread.php?15989-Battery-System-Voltages-and-equivalent-power

    If you're going to have the batteries anyway ... instead of adding controllers it's simpler to just up the system Voltage and buy the appropriate inverter.

    Definitely go with the pure sine. There's almost no advantage to MSW inverters these days as the sine wave units have come down in price. If you're serious about the investment, buying an inverter with built-in charger is the way to go. It's a fair chunk of change: around $2,000. But you will have a top-quality inverter like Outback or Magnum then.

    The generator gets to be a balancing act. The EU2000i is only 1600 Watts, but you'd be amazed how much that will do if you can control the loads. I use one with an Outback VFX3524 inverter-charger and 232 Amp hour battery bank. It can charge at full capacity for the batteries (about 25 Amps DC) and run everything else including starting the 'frige with the eco-throttle on. It won't handle the water pump start up, so I leave that off and only run it when the batteries are full.

    The battery bank you're proposing (800 Amp hours @ 12 Volt or 9600 Watt hour equivalent) would use more than half the EU2000i's capacity at full charge current. Providing nothing else came on until the batteries were charged enough it would have no trouble.

    Incidentally, when I did try the pump on the gen the inverter dropped the gen input (with a noticeable blip in power) then picked it up again once things had stabilized. With the pump running the gen is able to keep it going; it's only the start surge that knocks it out.
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,590 admin
    Re: Help me plan my battery system

    800 AH @ 12 volts is a lot of battery... 400 AH @ 24 volts will make wiring up a 2kW inverter much easier and cheaper--But does not elimiate the need for a hefty charge controller.

    I assume you will want to recharge the battery bank over night (call it 10-12 hours)--So you don't want a "smaller charger" that takes the better part of a day to do that.

    The Honda eu2000i is probably enough to keep the bank breaking even--But you would want a larger charging source (my guess) for overnight use.

    If you want the most efficient charge controller--We kind of beat that issue to death in this thread (if your eyes glaze over 1/2 way in--I understand:

    Question about battery charger selection with EU2000 generator.


    I am all for a balanced system design--And it is very easy to go overboard on one element or another (charging, battery bank, inverter, etc..)... Without hard measurements and experience, it is difficult to figure out if an 800 AH @ 12 volts (or same thing at 400 AH 24 volts) is overkill or not. It is very possible that you could "get away" with 1/2 the bank size--But it is an unknown at this point.

    What you don't want is the system to work great for 6 months and then start chasing problems for the next year trying to figure out if it was an undersized battery bank, bad connections, too small of inverter, etc. down the road (so to speak)...

    If you do implement this system--You will be the expert here. 8)

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset