wiring my dc lighting to a xantrex c60 solar regulator
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billy mclean
Registered Users Posts: 7 ✭
hi,hopefully a easy question,if you can help please.just bought c60,have 3 175watt panels,and 2 nu deka 6 volt batteries,where do you connect ur dc lighting wires,when using controller in charge control mode,is it in with pv wires in pv terminal or do u just have ur 4 wires in ur controller (the +- battery wires and the +-pv wires)and connect all ur dc load wires direct onto battery,hope makes sense,if not u know where i,m at with the whole affair lol.cheers billy
Comments
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Re: wiring my dc lighting to a xantrex c60 solar regulator
The C-60 is not intended to be used as a lighting controller and PV controller at the same time.
It's 3 possible functions are:
To regulate battery charging from a PV array.
To divert extra current away from the battery to a dedicated DC diversion load when another charging source raises the battery voltage above a set point.
To turn off a DC load when the battery voltage goes below a set point.
It can only be used for one of these functions at a time. And none will automatically turn on your lights when it gets dark. The Load controller function can be used as a Low Voltage Disconnect switch to protect your battery if connected DC loads pull the battery voltage too low. It will then reconnect after the voltage rises to a another programmable setting. -
Re: wiring my dc lighting to a xantrex c60 solar regulator
If you are looking where to attach your load wiring--All you need to do is run them back to the battery +/- bus/common connection points. Note, each wire that leaves the battery common + bus bar should have a fuse or circuit breaker to protect downstream wiring against shorts/overloads.
If you have multiple batteries, you should look read this web page about how to connect the batteries to ensure they have balanced charging/discharging current.
There are other lighting/charge controllers that can be setup for landscape lighting, but they are not as large as the C60...
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: wiring my dc lighting to a xantrex c60 solar regulator
I am betting also that those 175 watt panels are not 12 volt, probably in the 23 to 30 volt range. -
Re: wiring my dc lighting to a xantrex c60 solar regulator
Which would mean that you should have a MPPT type charge controller.
All About Charge Controllers
Read this page about power tracking controllers
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: wiring my dc lighting to a xantrex c60 solar regulator
lol,youve got me thinking now but pretty sure there 12volt producing 10amp max,without going on roof to look at label,would that b right do they produce such panels ,he says doubting himself.many thanks mate -
Re: wiring my dc lighting to a xantrex c60 solar regulator
it sounds like a silly question now u have explained,was getting confused with the load contol mode htinking had 2 put my load wiring in with pv terminal,not gud i imagine lol.gud 1 on the fuse on my wires leaving battery,will b doing that.what size of fuses,confident enough with the batt connection,but will read the connect batteries web page and i,ll check out the setup 4 landscape lighting ,sounds gud.bill just 1 more question mate m,mucho confusion on the bulk ,float settings in c60 ,could u please recommend sum gud voltages 4 them keeping in mind my setup (3 175 watt 12 volt panels,and 2 deka6volt gc10 238 ah golf cart batteries,if u could shed sum light on these matters that would b great.cheers billy -
Re: wiring my dc lighting to a xantrex c60 solar regulator
hi,cheers for the the info,well wrote,simple,till my next stumbling block on learning about alternative energy, -
Re: wiring my dc lighting to a xantrex c60 solar regulator
OK Billy--You are going to make me translate from Txt to Message Board?billy mclean wrote: »It sounds like a silly question now you have explained. I was getting confused with the load control mode thinking had to put my load wiring in with pv terminal.
Not good I imagine lol. [laughing out loud]
It is not difficult to get confused. Some Solar Charge Controllers have up to three different modes of operation--And the electrical connections/functions are quite different depending your configuration/needs.
A basic Solar charge controller should be wired:[FONT=fixedsys][PV Panels] == [PV Intput(charge controller)Batt Output] += Battery Bank += Loads/Inverters/etc.[/FONT]
In the "standard PV charge controller mode", the Charge Controller basically is a fancy "on/off" switch between the PV panels (power source) and the loads (battery bank, DC loads, etc.).
If you tell us which controller you have (may have to provide a link to the device if it is not common to the US), we can usually give you more exact help.
Remember, the battery is the "heart" of your system. Everything that hangs off the battery really only supports its "one function"... The charge controller charges the battery. Each load discharges the battery. If you have two charge controllers (say Solar + AC charger), they each connect directly to the battery and make each makes its own "decision" about how much current the battery needs at that moment. The charge controller with the highest "output voltage set point" wins.Good one on the fuse. On my wires leaving battery,will be doing that. What size of fuses? Confident enough with the battery connection. However, I will read the how to connect batteries web page and I will check out the setup for landscape lighting. Sounds good.
When installing fuses/breakers... You normally look at the battery as the source of "unlimited" current in your system. Each positive wire that leaves the battery bank should have its own dedicated fuse or breaker. I think you are a Brit from Spain--So I will avoid the archaic US Gage wiring tables for the moment.
But, say you want 10 amps from a wire connection. The wire and fuse should be rated at least 1.25x larger (12.5 amps) and rounded up to the next "standard" size (say 15 amps). Also--especially with low voltage systems (like 12 volt battery), high current through wiring produces significant voltage drops. A length of wire carrying X amps may drop 1 volt. For a 230 VAC system, 1 volt drop is nothing to worry about. For a 12 volt system, where the battery may run down to ~11.5 volts, a 1 volt drop means 10.5 volts at the load--Very few "12 volt appliances/lights" will work well at 10.5 volts... So you are forced to use thicker wire to carry the current with less voltage drop (or use higher working voltages--such as 24 or 48 VDC, or use an AC inverter to send 120/230/240 VAC longer distances on much thinner wire).
Remember Power = Voltage * Current. ... If you have 10x the voltage, you only need 1/10th the current (i.e., 12 VDC vs 120 VAC).Bill just 1 more question mate? Much confusion on the bulk ,float settings in c60. Could you please recommend some good voltages for them--keeping in mind my setup (3 175 watt 12 volt panels,and 2 deka 6volt gc10 238 ah golf cart batteries). If you could shed some light on these matters that would be great.cheers billy
Billy, I am not quite sure what type of Deka Batteries you have... They have flooded, AGM, and GEL batteries--All of which have vary different charging specifications... For example, if this is a GEL battery:IMPORTANT GEL CHARGING INSTRUCTIONS: WARRANTY VOID IF OPENED OR
IMPROPERLY CHARGED. Do not install in a sealed container. Constant under
or overcharging will damage any battery and shorten its life! Use a good constant
potential, voltage-regulated charger. For 12 volt batteries, charge to at least
13.8 volts but no more than 14.1 volts at 68°F (20°C). For 6-volt batteries,
charge to at least 6.9 volts but no more than 7.05 volts at 68°F (20°C).
The open circuit voltage of a fully charged 6-volt battery is 6.4V at 68°F (20°C).
However, as the battery charges, the building internal pressure (voltage) causes
resistance to the charge. Therefore, the on-charge voltage must be higher
(at least 6.9V) to overcome this internal pressure (voltage) during charging.
AGM's will be a bit higher and flooded cell will have bulk voltage even higher than that.
-Bill "just teasing about your txting English" B.Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: wiring my dc lighting to a xantrex c60 solar regulator
hi bill,text to message board,sorry mate,not 2 gud at this computing malarkey.bill its 2 deka gc10 lead acid batts which i,m connecting 4 12 volt and its the settings 4 my xantrex c60 controller,wat would u reccommend i put the bulk and float settings at,many thanks on the fuse confusement,clear on that 1 now, cheers.bill i,ve fried my last 250e batt with a cheap chinese regulator that kept on charging,so this is why want to get it right,(skint at moment).thanks again bill,have gudun mateIt is not difficult to get confused. Some Solar Charge Controllers have up to three different modes of operation--And the electrical connections/functions are quite different depending your configuration/needs.
A basic Solar charge controller should be wired:[FONT=fixedsys][PV Panels] == [PV Intput(charge controller)Batt Output] += Battery Bank += Loads/Inverters/etc.[/FONT]
In the "standard PV charge controller mode", the Charge Controller basically is a fancy "on/off" switch between the PV panels (power source) and the loads (battery bank, DC loads, etc.).
If you tell us which controller you have (may have to provide a link to the device if it is not common to the US), we can usually give you more exact help.
Remember, the battery is the "heart" of your system. Everything that hangs off the battery really only supports its "one function"... The charge controller charges the battery. Each load discharges the battery. If you have two charge controllers (say Solar + AC charger), they each connect directly to the battery and make each makes its own "decision" about how much current the battery needs at that moment. The charge controller with the highest "output voltage set point" wins.
When installing fuses/breakers... You normally look at the battery as the source of "unlimited" current in your system. Each positive wire that leaves the battery bank should have its own dedicated fuse or breaker. I think you are a Brit from Spain--So I will avoid the archaic US Gage wiring tables for the moment.
But, say you want 10 amps from a wire connection. The wire and fuse should be rated at least 1.25x larger (12.5 amps) and rounded up to the next "standard" size (say 15 amps). Also--especially with low voltage systems (like 12 volt battery), high current through wiring produces significant voltage drops. A length of wire carrying X amps may drop 1 volt. For a 230 VAC system, 1 volt drop is nothing to worry about. For a 12 volt system, where the battery may run down to ~11.5 volts, a 1 volt drop means 10.5 volts at the load--Very few "12 volt appliances/lights" will work well at 10.5 volts... So you are forced to use thicker wire to carry the current with less voltage drop (or use higher working voltages--such as 24 or 48 VDC, or use an AC inverter to send 120/230/240 VAC longer distances on much thinner wire).
Remember Power = Voltage * Current. ... If you have 10x the voltage, you only need 1/10th the current (i.e., 12 VDC vs 120 VAC).
Billy, I am not quite sure what type of Deka Batteries you have... They have flooded, AGM, and GEL batteries--All of which have vary different charging specifications... For example, if this is a GEL battery:
AGM's will be a bit higher and flooded cell will have bulk voltage even higher than that.
-Bill "just teasing about your txting English" B. -
Re: wiring my dc lighting to a xantrex c60 solar regulator
Billy,
There are different types of Lead Acid Batteries... GEL, AGM, Flooded Cell, and others... Each has a different suggested charging voltage.
GEL are the most sensitive to overcharging and very easy to permanently damage. Plain flooded cell (you take the caps off to add distilled water) usually can take the highest charging voltage without for quick charging. AGM can take the highest charging current but are somewhat sensitive to over charging (sealed battery that will vent electrolyte if over charged).
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: wiring my dc lighting to a xantrex c60 solar regulator
Be sure to use the BTS (Battery Temp Sensor) It must be a Xantrex BTS.
Temperatures will effect the charging voltages you batteries need and without the BTS your xantrex C-60 will not automatically adjust. -
Re: wiring my dc lighting to a xantrex c60 solar regulator
hi bill,hope all gud, its a flooded cell,which is the same settings i,m lead 2 beleive through another post as agm charge voltages ,now looking deeper into it a temp sensor would b a sensible buy to get the most out my batteries,u think?cheers billy
There are different types of Lead Acid Batteries... GEL, AGM, Flooded Cell, and others... Each has a different suggested charging voltage.
GEL are the most sensitive to overcharging and very easy to permanently damage. Plain flooded cell (you take the caps off to add distilled water) usually can take the highest charging voltage without for quick charging. AGM can take the highest charging current but are somewhat sensitive to over charging (sealed battery that will vent electrolyte if over charged).
-Bill[/QUOTE] -
Re: wiring my dc lighting to a xantrex c60 solar regulatorSolaRevolution wrote: »Be sure to use the BTS (Battery Temp Sensor) It must be a Xantrex BTS.
Temperatures will effect the charging voltages you batteries need and without the BTS your xantrex C-60 will not automatically adjust.
hi solarevolution,cheers for the info,definitely gud idea,will get 1 soon as can,thanks billy
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