New guy saying hello!

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Hello all,

I have been reading up for the past month or so, lots to learn. I just bought 2 125 watt panels so far. I just want to power some lights and maybe a radio in my shop, nothing too big for now. I am just trying this to lessen my footprint. I am now looking for a decent charge controller and inverter. I may add more panels down the road so I would like a controller that can handle a few more. If I get four 6 volt batteries to run a 12 volt system, what happens to the power when my load is small and my batteries are full? Seems like I would be wasting power. Is that where a GT inverter comes in?

What would be a good charge controller for my situation?

Thank you all for this very useful forum!

-Jamie

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  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,445 admin
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    Re: New guy saying hello!

    Welcome to the Forum Jamie,

    First answer--For solar PV systems, the excess power is simply not used. Yes, you can use GT inverters but that add cost and complexity. We can ignore that for now. Not really practical for a small system (especially once you add permitting/inspection/utility approval costs.

    Regarding your questions... Generally we like to suggest that people learn about their loads--Peak Watts and Watts*Hours of use per day. We then size the system to support those loads.

    Another way is to "pick" one element, and design the system around that. Number of panels that will fit in a sunny spot on the roof, amount of batteries that will fit in an RV, etc.

    Since you talked about a 4x 6 volt (golf cart I assume) batteries... We can start there using basic rules of thumb that usually get "close enough" for solar work (I will carry out more digits in the math so you can follow my equations and mistakes :roll:. In general, +/- 10% is about as accurate as you can get).

    First, the battery bank, usually we recommend around 5% to 13% rate of charge for the battery bank. Too little, it will take forever to recharge the battery bank and possibly sulfate faster (and die). More than 13% rate of charge, can be pretty expensive for solar panels and charge controllers (and much of the sun is wasted as the battery bank quickly fills). For deep cycle fork lift batteries, about 13% (or C/8.) is the maximum continuous charge/discharge current you can do for hours without overheating).

    A typical "golf cart" battery is 6 volts @ 220 AH. 4x of them in a 12 volt bank will be two in series/parallel configuration with 12 volts @ 440 AH. The recommended amount of solar array wattage would be:
    • 14.5 volts charging * 440 AH * 1/0.77 panel+controller derating * 0.05 rate of charge = 414 Watts minimum
    • 14.5 volts charging * 440 AH * 1/0.77 panel+controller derating * 0.10 rate of charge = 829 watts "nominal"
    • 14.5 volts charging * 440 AH * 1/0.77 panel+controller derating * 0.13 rate of charge = 1,077 watts "max cost effective"
    Now, how much power would this produce... First, the battery bank. Normally, you don't want to cycle below 50% for maximum battery life:
    • 12 volts * 440 AH * 0.50 max discharge * 0.85 inverter eff = 1,320 Watt*Hours from battery bank (no sun)
    And average/maximum surge AC power:
    • 12 volts * 440 AH * 0.85 inverter eff * 1/8 rate of discharge = 561 watts max continuous (for ~4 hours of use)
    • 12 volts * 440 AH * 0.85 inverter eff * 1/2.5 max surge = 1,795 watts max surge (for starting motors, pumps, etc.)
    The recommended size of inverter would be around 500-900 watts of 120 VAC (typically a good inverter will surge about 2x its rated load--1/2*1,800 watt surge = 900 watts).

    A really great small True Sine Wave inverter is the MorningStar 300 watt TSW 12 volt inverter with search/remote on-off switching.
    And how much power can you get from your solar array for your area. Using PV Watts for Philadelphia Pennsylvania, the hours of sun we see are:
    Month Solar Radiation (kWh/m 2/day)
    1 3.30
    2 4.16
    3 4.74
    4 5.06
    5 5.20
    6 5.43
    7 5.51
    8 5.67
    9 5.07
    10 4.59
    11 3.37
    12 2.67
    Year 4.57
    So, for February you get around 4.16 hours of average sun per day. Using the suggested array numbers we would get (again, February):
    • 414 Watts * 0.52 over all system eff * 4.16 hours = 896 WH per day
    • 829 watts * 0.52 over all system eff * 4.16 hours = 1,791 WH per day
    • 1,077 watts * 0.52 over all system eff * 4.16 hours = 2,328 WH per day
    So, how much AC power do you use in a day? I would suggest you get a Kill-a-Watt or similar meter. Very handy to measure the loads of your 120 VAC 15 amp plug-in appliances (and very handy to use around the home for conservation--How much power does the fridge or desktop server use, etc.).

    I will stop here. Enough data thrown at you for the moment--Questions?

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: New guy saying hello!

    welcome,
    that's a tough thing for us to do is to tell you what you want to buy. well, not really as it isn't our money, but it depends on how far you are going to upgrade down the road and what you are willing to spend.

    the controllers have 2 basic types and they are pwm and mppt. mppt will recover on average about 10% of the power that would've normally been lost in using a pwm type controller. mppt costs more too.

    the inverter can be modsine or sine wave with high recommendations for using sine wave for better efficiency in powering items that are inductive such as fans and motors as well as preserving the life of some appliances. the wattage rating depends on the maximum power you would draw at one time. true ac load determining is advised here and you can do that with a killawatt meter. if your loads will expand later, then you must account for these as well. you don't want to buy one that is too small for your future load requirements and this same line of thinking applies to the controller as well.
  • System2
    System2 Posts: 6,290 admin
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    Re: New guy saying hello!

    Thanks for the help guys! I just ordered a couple kill-a-watt meters and I will check some things out. I plan on getting started where I live now just to learn how things work. I will be moving next summer (2013) and hope to have a pretty good understanding on how solar works. Like I said, I am starting off with 2 125 watt panels. Mid summer I will buy 2 more totaling 500 watts. I am looking to buy a decent mppt charge controller that will suit my needs. It will be a simple setup of 2-4 125 watt panels, charge controller, 4 6 volt batteries, and an inverter. I just need help deciding on a controller for my setup. My shop has about 300 watts of lighting a couple hours a day, a small radio, and maybe a few odd balls here and there. I just don't want to under buy.

    I also might not buy the same panels, not sure if that will make a difference.

    Thanks
    -Jamie
  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: New guy saying hello!

    blue sky is old mppt technology. look at it this way outputting at 12v for all,
    15a out is 180w....................../.77=233.75w in pv
    30a out is 360w....................../.77=467.5w in pv
    45a out is 540w....................../.77=701.3w in pv
    60a out is 720w....................../.77=935w in pv
    the .77 is the average derating for pvs to better represent the stc rating seen on pvs. the 12v output watts will not go higher than the controller will handle at 12v and is due to the max current output the controller will handle. 500w stc is higher than 467.5w and lower than 701.3w so the controller should be at least 45a out. if for any reason your efficiency is better than the 77% listed or if the pv is outputting more than rated by increased solar intensity then you could lose some of the top end of that production by exceeding the w ratings of the controller.

    a good way to give yourself proper room and not run the controller at max all of the time is to actually go by the stc rating of the pvs instead of accounting for the derating on them. this also allows for the recouping of some power by the mppt controller which is typically 10%, but this can go to 20% or even 30% higher at times depending on factors that i'm not going to elaborate on. 500w stc still fits the 45a mppt controller. hope the elaboration by me didn't confuse you.

    if you plan to expand even more than 500w stc in pv then go for a bigger controller now or add another later with any of the pvs over the 500w mark to that 2nd controller so that no pv sees a connection to more than 1 controller.
  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: New guy saying hello!
    Jabo wrote: »
    My shop has about 300 watts of lighting a couple hours a day
    300 watts of lighting is huge! Every light in my 1200 sq ft house (most LED, some CFL) doesn't add up to 160 watts and I've never had them all on at once. The first rule of power production is conservation. If you run those lights for 2 hrs a day you will consume more energy than my refrigerator does in a day. --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i