wiring to a kyocera 130 J-box

jkhawaii
jkhawaii Solar Expert Posts: 30 ✭
in Solar Beginners Corner #1
so far, I find it difficult to figure out how to seal the wires running to the J-box. There are so many types of fittings, conduit, wire types. I bought the two conductor 10 awg wire from this site, along with a 1/2 inch Nylon strain relief. I had thought that the wire, with the sleeve and 2 wires could be put into the relief and sealed but thats not the case as the wire is not round and the relief does not conform to the wire. do I need to use conduit? how do I get the wires run into the J-box sealed and secured? just put some silicone in the hole? or does the j-box even need to be sealed? I can see why most panels do not use J-boxes any more
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  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    #2
    Re: wiring to a kyocera 130 J-box

    well you could go crazy with it and get something like this,
    http://www.pfpros.com/junction-box-cord-seal.shtml

    i personally never thought there was a need for water tightness if the connection entrance faces down. gravity helps prevent it from going up into it and if it does make it inside it can freely drain back out. this is good if condensation would build up in there too.

    if you must use something on it to seal it then try something that won't become permanent such as plumbers putty.
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  • Slappy
    Slappy Solar Expert Posts: 251 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    #3
    Re: wiring to a kyocera 130 J-box

    http://www.lowes.com/pd_45744-15527-49092_4294821891_4294937087_?zipCode=37660&masthead=true&firstReferURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lowes.com%2Fpd_45744-1 this might work for ya?? or something simular.



    or you can op for flex conduit? or pick up more wire for the round strain relief.(to expensive)

    but a cheap way and might work (according to size of gap) is to put some silicon into the gap, then tighten down on the strain relief. then let cure.
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  • waynefromnscanada
    waynefromnscanada Solar Expert Posts: 3,009 ✭✭✭✭
    #4
    Re: wiring to a kyocera 130 J-box
    Slappy wrote: »
    a cheap way and might work (according to size of gap) is to put some silicon into the gap, then tighten down on the strain relief. then let cure.
    Just be sure to use an RTV type silicone, as regular silicone seal releases acetic acid while curing, some of it into the enclosed space where it will stay locked in and corrode anything metal it can come in contact with, or find it's way to over time.
    I agree with a non air tight bottom entry, allows condensation to escape. Otherwise condensation will very likely occur over time if the space can't properly breath.
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  • Jim45D
    Jim45D Solar Expert Posts: 102 ✭✭
    #5
    Re: wiring to a kyocera 130 J-box

    I've had my Kyocera 80 watters installed for almost 9 years. They have junction boxes. Simply install the strain relief, keep the entry point pointed down, as Neil say's it will prevent the buildup of condensation, and the angle will keep out any rain. The only problem with one panel I had some 3 years ago was a spider building it's webbed nest in the box. Brush it out, and check them every two years. There was no hinderance to the current output. I just happened to see the spider going in and out of the hole, otherwise I wouldn't have even opened the J box. I did not use any seal whatsoever on mine.
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  • jkhawaii
    jkhawaii Solar Expert Posts: 30 ✭
    #6
    Re: wiring to a kyocera 130 J-box

    @Jim, haha thats funny about seeing a spider going in and out of the Junction box.
    I went and got the fitting that Slappy had the link to it holds both wires with the jacket nice tight. the project is coming along slowly, just mounted two lengths of 1 5/8 x 13/16 Superstrut on 4 S-5E mini standing seam clamps, pointing south. Now I need to put together a mount to angle the panel up to around 19 deg.
    still trying to decide on materials to use
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