Another newbie signing on for the first time!

Options
Fire Instructor
Fire Instructor Registered Users Posts: 9
Greetings, All!

I've actually been lurking on and off for a few weeks, but now that I've learned so much (with so much more to learn) while hiding in the shadows, I decided to make my presence known.

Ordered the better part of my system yesterday (from various vendors), which is being installed in / on a 27' travel trailer:
Two - 150W Suntech 34.4v Panels
Panel Mounting Feet
MC4 Cables
Combiner Box
20' - #4 Double wire
Two tubes of Dicor Sealant

I've had ongoing email discussions with Marc, from Rouge Power Technologies, and I'll be getting one of the "new" Rouge 3024's (or whatever it's called when released) when they are available. (Estimated June 1)

My electrical system system has two - 220Ah 6-volt deep cycle batteries, which I will be doubling this weekend. My initial use will be just to extend my boondocking capacity while camping. I'll add some 12v outlets to charge cellphone, computer, camera, etc, plus run a few simple 12v appliances. I also already own both a 1000w plug-in inverter and a 750w unit, so I will be able to use them, as needed.

I'm sure that I'll have some questions, as my components begin to arrive. In the meantime, I'm looking forward to learning more from all of you, and contributing where my meager knowledge and talents allow me to contribute!

Be Safe,

Rick
Fire Instructor

Comments

  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,447 admin
    Options
    Re: Another newbie signing on for the first time!

    Nice to see you here Rick!

    And also good to hear that Marc is close to releasing his next version of Rogue charge controller. I will be interesting to see what he has done.

    And, Rick, if you want to discuss some of the aspects of fire safety and solar--please feel free to jump right in.

    It would be nice to have more people here who knows those sides of the issues too.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Another newbie signing on for the first time!

    I guess I get to be the voice of gloom and doom again and point out that 300 Watts of panel is rather minimal for 220 Amp hours of battery. If you double your battery capacity it will fall far short. In an RV situation this mostly means you'll be relying on alternative charging (e.g. generator, engine alternator, or "shore" power). Also, it's not a good idea to add new batteries to old unless the 'old' isn't very old and they've been kept up and not abused.

    Ideally you'd want 400 Watts of panel for the one set of batteries, and double that for two sets. This has quite a lot of variance in it, however, as RV applications have widely different insolation depending on where you're parked.

    But hey; it's better than nought, right? :p
  • Fire Instructor
    Fire Instructor Registered Users Posts: 9
    Options
    Re: Another newbie signing on for the first time!

    TY for the welcome's, Mods!

    Cariboocoot - It's almost funny that "too much battery" is exactly the opposite from what I heard from most of the solar experts and gurus on www.rv.net. Almost universally, they recommend that I add battery capacity with that much panel. I haven't bought the batteries yet, so maybe I'll rethink! Is theer somewhere I you'd suggest where I can do some additional reading / research on this?

    The good news, to me, is that I'll have controller expansion room and enough roof space to add more panels, should need arise (and my wallet replenish!).
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,447 admin
    Options
    Re: Another newbie signing on for the first time!

    Wait until you figure out that we tell 1/2 the new people here to skip solar+battery backup and get a small/quiet emergency generator for their home instead. It is cheaper and more practical for most people. :roll:

    Their next question--Isn't this a solar forum? :-)

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Another newbie signing on for the first time!

    We have our funny little formulas and rules-of-thumb - all tried, tested, and true. In this case if you're looking for full charge capability you want to not only "replace the used Amp hours" but also try for a charge current of 5-13% of the batteries' total Amp hour capacity, just to keep things stirred up.

    Trojan recommends 10% for their batteries, and the charge rate should be net not gross: Amps in minus Amps out for loads. Generally if you shoot for that 10% rate you'll come out somewhere between 5 and 10 and be okay. The formula looks like this:

    Panel Wattage @ efficiency rating (usually 77%) / charge Voltage = potential peak current.

    So for your 300 Watts you get:

    300 * 0.77 = 231 / 14.2 = 16.2 Amps or (16.2 * 100 / 200) 7.3% Which will just about work.

    Always a good read, the Battery FAQ's: http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm
  • Fire Instructor
    Fire Instructor Registered Users Posts: 9
    Options
    Re: Another newbie signing on for the first time!

    I already camp with a 2400W Yamaha "quiet" generator, p;lus it's my "back-up" at my home.

    My solar install is to provide and replenish the 12v necessary to run the parasite loads of circuit boards on the propane refer, water heater, smoke detector, and propane detectors. Also, the interior lights (all switched over to LED's), water pump, macerator pump (for when I need to pump/dump into a waste tank), some occasional television use, stereo, and recharge of cameras, cellphone, PDA, and laptop... I don't like running the generator into the evening, as even though it's quiet, it still can "disturb" some. With the solar, my batteries will replenish passively, whiile I'm out kayaking, fishing, or siteseeing.

    This way, I should only have to fire-up the generator when we need to use the microwave. We are generally "fair-season" campers, so the travel trailer is parked and stored from mid-October to May, so lower off-season sun isn't too much of a problem for me.

    BTW - The existing set of batteries are just starting thier third season, and have been taken inside the basement during the winter, so as not to loose charge and/or freeze. The registered "full" when I reconnected them four week ago.
  • icarus
    icarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,436 ✭✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Another newbie signing on for the first time!

    Once again, another welcome,,,

    A couple of notes. RVers tend not to have a very good understanding of batteries in my experience. They tend to think of batteries as something you "pour electricity into, and then out of" rather than the chemical factories that they really are.

    Next, all loads, (and ergo all purchase choices) derive from expected loading. It is not nearly as simple as saying, " we are going to run a TV, maybe a lap top, and a few lights, etc" . What you really NEED to know is how big a load, for how long and how often. For example, a 1 kwh load over the course of a day, every day, is different than the same load 1 day, and then idle for 6. Or to complicate further, a 1 kwh load over 1 hour is different than the same 1 kwh load over the course of a 24 hour day.

    Before you buy anything, spend as much time estimating your loads as best you can, understanding the basic rule of off grid living: The loads are always bigger than you think, and they always grow. Also understand that RVs almost never have "ideal" solar orientation so that any and all calcs need to understand that.

    The rule of thumb that I like to use is: Name plate rating/2 (to account for all cumulative system loses) multiplied by 4, the four representing the average hours of good sun, one can reasonably expect on a daily basis, averaged over the course of the year. You can adjust your number accordingly, but seldom much more than 4, and in an RV that total number is likely to be optimistic.

    So, a 100 watt PV calc. might look like this: 100/2=50*4=200 wh/day. (and once again, not to press the point, the RV calc is likely to be worse.

    Batteries and charging capacity should be well matched as others have suggested, shooting for 10% of Ah capacity is a good goal. So a 100 watt panel might put out ~ 5 amps, enough to mate with ~ 50 ah of battery. Ideally, the batteries should be sized to draw a maximum of of ~25-30% on any given cycle. A great misnomer about "deep cycle" batteries is that you can routinely draw them down further "with out harm". The truth is that the cycle life of the battery is directly related to the depth of discharge during each cycle.

    I would suggest that you read and understand the following links:

    http://www.batteryfaq.org/

    http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm#Lifespan%20of%20Batteries

    The final rule of solar, is that most people over estimate their solar harvest, while at the same time underestimate their loads, leading to short battery life, and unsatisfactory performance.

    Just as an FYI, we live off grid, with 400 watts of PV, 450 ah of battery (12vdc). We routinely draw ~ 5-800 wh/day, and can go 3 days before we draw the batteries down below 75% SoC. On an average day, we more than keep even, and after three days of no sun, we can get fully charged with a perfect day.

    Hope this helps, and once again, welcome to the forum.

    Tony
  • dwh
    dwh Solar Expert Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Another newbie signing on for the first time!

    When you mount the panels on the roof, make absolutely certain that nothing on the roof of the RV will cast ANY shadows on the panels. Even a tiny sliver of shadow can cut the panel output drastically.

    The power output of this panel is being cut by 50% due to the shading:

    minus-501.jpg?w=440&h=586&h=586
  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
    Options
    Re: Another newbie signing on for the first time!

    actually 300w of pv is good for 220ah of batteries at 12v. the mppt controller will transform the voltage and current to better optimize power from the pv. take the wattage and divide by an arbitrary max operating voltage like 15.5v and this equates roughly to 19.35a minus a bit for controller operations and other such losses. if this is even 17a this would be 17a/220ah=7.72% which is acceptable. if you double your battery bank then you will have trouble.

    in general most batteries are good to have a charge rate of 5%-13% of battery capacity and 10% is recommended by trojan. doubling the battery capacity would take the charge rate down to about 3.86% and the batteries will not charge properly. if it were my circumstance if i did anything i would add more pv because pvs are not aimed optimally at the sun most of the time when mounted flat on trailer tops. during times of the sun being on the horizon be it sunrise/sunset or a winter sun the pv output will be greatly compromised when mounted flat. snow and dirt also do not fall off as readily when mounted flat and that adds to the problem.

    do not listen to those others telling you you need more in battery unless it is because of your load requirements over the day. batteries should not be drained below 50% state of charge to preserve battery life and under this circumstance you may need to double the capacity to preserve battery life. at that point you need to more than double your pv capacity to properly charge that bigger battery bank.