How would you economically wire 20 Kaneka panels?

BilljustBill

I will have 10 Kaneka panels tomorrow, as I've slowly gathered my panels and equipment for an Off Grid system. If I wire a set of 5 Kaneka panels in parallel using their prewired connections, it appears to be expensive to use the MC connectors. I have #6 large multi-strand copper wire to connect the panels and run to a combiner box about 40' away.

Is there a place to buy these MC3 connectors in bulk? Do you have a better way to wire them so they keep their warranty and stay in parallel?

They will be on South roof mount rails. At 67 volts and 1.9 amps each of the 60w panel puts out, I will be using an Outback Flex max 80 amp controller for a 48 volt battery bank....

Because of the $40 price, and the increasing Fuel Surcharges for freight as gas and diesel costs are increasing, that price actually includes free shipping. So, I'm planning to purchase a total of 20 Kaneka panels. Roof space and added weight isn't an issue.

Your ideas and experiences are welcomed,
Bill

stephendv

Re: How would you economically wire 20 Kaneka panels?

The GEA-60 panels are touch and go with a 48V battery bank, because the Vmp is quite low. 67V at STC means about 60V when the panels are at 60 degree C. Which means that you could have trouble equalizing in summer because of too low voltage. Your absorb voltage should be around 58V, so on hot days and considering voltage drop in wires and in the controller, that's cutting it mighty close.

If I were you, I'd ask around for other users who have those panels and a 48V battery to see how they're holding up. Peak summer temperatures are where you're likely to have issues.
Would be safer if you could go with 2 in series and use a high voltage controller like the Apollo.

BB.

Re: How would you economically wire 20 Kaneka panels?

Or find out when the 250 VDC Midnite Classic controller is due to ship...

-Bill

BilljustBill

Re: How would you economically wire 20 Kaneka panels?

stephendv wrote: »

The GEA-60 panels are touch and go with a 48V battery bank, because the Vmp is quite low. 67V at STC means about 60V when the panels are at 60 degree C. Which means that you could have trouble equalizing in summer because of too low voltage. Your absorb voltage should be around 58V, so on hot days and considering voltage drop in wires and in the controller, that's cutting it mighty close.

If I were you, I'd ask around for other users who have those panels and a 48V battery to see how they're holding up. Peak summer temperatures are where you're likely to have issues.
Would be safer if you could go with 2 in series and use a high voltage controller like the Apollo.

Where else would I look to "ask around" about these panels? Also, any ideas of how to wire the Kaneka panels so it doesn't cost so much for all those MC3 connectors?

To clarify, the 3.5kw size system will come into operation 1/3 at a time. Most likely, the 1,200 watt Kaneka roof mounted panels will be added after I get a tracker array installed. It has a pole mount system taken from a old 12' diameter, solid aluminum satellite dish. So, it is well built to support and move the 1,350 watt, 10'x10' tracker using 10 Kyocera 135w panels wired with two 5-panel strings. The last 1/3 of my system comes from two additional 5- panel strings totaling 1,120 watts.

AntronX

Re: How would you economically wire 20 Kaneka panels?

BilljustBill wrote: »

Where else would I look to "ask around" about these panels? Also, any ideas of how to wire the Kaneka panels so it doesn't cost so much for all those MC3 connectors?

Cheapest MC-3 connectors I found are $2.50 each with shipping included from China via Ebay. You may need crimper tool for them. Sunelec also has them for $3.40 each for pack of 25. Since these panels are so cheap, I would just cut their connectors off and splice directly to junction box wire. If you leave few inches of wire on those connectors, you could possibly resell them to someone else who does not want to cut theirs.