Mitsubishi mini-split 26 SEER
techntrek
Solar Expert Posts: 1,372 ✭✭✭
I've been doing a lot of research on mini-splits since learning about them on the Sanyo mini-split thread. I found the Mitsubishi product line last night and wanted to pass on info on their highest-SEER model, rated at 26 SEER. 2800 to 9000 btu cooling, 3000 to 18,000 btu heating, guaranteed 70F output @ -13˚ F, 100% output @ 5˚ F. The page below shows a wattage range of 160-650 cooling and 150-2250 heating.
For comparison the Sanyo numbers: 16-20 SEER, 3000-9000 btu cooling, 3000-12,200 btu heating, 0 F minimum outside temp, 250-755 watts cooling, 250-995 heating.
They appear to have the same operating modes, fan speeds and most of the same programming options. One downside - unlike the 2 smallest Sanyo models which operate from 120V AC, all Mitsubishis require 208-240, which may be a problem for off-gridders. As expected, the Mitsubishi costs more by approximately $400.
Model MSZ-FE09NA
http://catalog.mitsubishipro.com/item/mr-slim-m-series-heat-pumps/msz-wall-mounted-inverter-heat-pumps/item-1386
For comparison the Sanyo numbers: 16-20 SEER, 3000-9000 btu cooling, 3000-12,200 btu heating, 0 F minimum outside temp, 250-755 watts cooling, 250-995 heating.
They appear to have the same operating modes, fan speeds and most of the same programming options. One downside - unlike the 2 smallest Sanyo models which operate from 120V AC, all Mitsubishis require 208-240, which may be a problem for off-gridders. As expected, the Mitsubishi costs more by approximately $400.
Model MSZ-FE09NA
http://catalog.mitsubishipro.com/item/mr-slim-m-series-heat-pumps/msz-wall-mounted-inverter-heat-pumps/item-1386
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Comments
Fujitsu also has a similar unit (26 SEER), but sadly, it is a 240 volts model too.
I'll have to check it out, I'm definitely getting one for a room in my house where 240 won't be a problem. I may have to stick with the Sanyo for my travel trailer project (described on another thread). A shame since 90 fewer watts would mean fewer batteries to take along.
http://www.fujitsugeneral.com/wallmounted9-12RLS.htm
I walked into Home Depot and to my surprise, a Mitsubishi mini-split was up on a wall near a regular air-sourced A/C. Maybe they will finally go mainstream in the next few years.
I went with the Mitsubishi. With only a xantrex 4048 I had to use a spare t-240 autotransformer to get the 120v house supply up to 240. No problems at all. When I want the heatpump on I turn on the breaker on the t-240. I am amazed at how little power it consumes when operating in a/c mode. It uses much more when heating, but then the temperature differential between outside and inside air is far greater when you're heating than cooling. (heating...20C inside, -5C outside. Cooling...25C inside, 30C outside)
Ralph
I went with a Mitsubisi Mr. Slim 9000 BTU 26 SEER heat pump. I can run it on cooling from an Exeltech XP-1100 or an Outback VFX-3600 as long as they go through an Outback PSX-240 transformer to get to 240 VAC. I do usually run it through the Outback just so I don't have to run the Exeltech's at full tilt. On heating it draws about 1230 watts vs 930 or so in AC mode. Two things I don't like are it Never shuts off so I usually use the timer. I also wish the remote was backlit so you didn't have to get a flashlight or turn a light on. Other than that, it is awesome. When I build upstairs, I intend to have 2 more of them so I can zone control tempature. I would buy it again, but there are often newer units that offer different advantages.
I just installed a 12000 watt high efficiency mini split. I have excess generation on my on grid system so it is going to be used in place of wood for shoulder seasons and when I am not home. Both Me and NH utilities have or had rebates and compared to oil they are lower cost. Arguably if you look at the initial cost to install a on grid PV array and mini split, the mini split is cheaper than a supplemental pellet heater. The down side is the output drops as the unit gets closer to -15 degrees F. My unit does run a blower at very low speed all the time but it doesn't seem to draw much. It has a power outage reset so a timer may be the better option for those off grid.
One caveat is that the units are intended to be run for long periods, they put out warm air. not hot.
I installed a dedicated KWhr meter on mine for monitoring purposes. I plan to do take some data from it under controlled conditions but for now it seems to be a low cost way to run
Keep some long johns handy at -15 deg F.
Attachment not found.
http://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy11osti/52175.pdf
I suggest you talk to the Pros in your area about which A/C brands do what they say and have a good record for few problems. Mitsubishi has some of the best DLP television pictures on the market, but their "after the sale" side is very, very poor. It is so bad that their consumer complaint division's website has a terrible maze of steps just to address warranty issues, taking MONTHS to reach a repair or adjustment compensations.
Apples to Oranges in comparing products, but they come from the same company tree.... Plus, unless parts and assembly are done here in the States, Japan's future, in view of FOUR Fukushima damaged and dangerous nuclear reactors spewing into the air and ocean, is declining....
A good sampling of the local commercial repair guys can tell you what they face daily, how long to get repair parts, time required to get the old part out and the new one in, and which brand they would buy for themselves.
An update on specs I found today on the Mitsubishi line. The MUZ-FH09NA outdoor unit with the MSZ-FH09NA indoor unit is rated 30.5 SEER and 13.5 HSPF. Output for heating:
100% heating capacity at 5° F outdoor ambient82% heating capacity at -4° F outdoor ambient62% heating capacity at -13° F outdoor ambienthttp://www.fujitsugeneral.com/wallmountedRLS3_specs.htm
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http://www.mitsubishipro.com/media/946493/fh_product_guide.pdf
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Here is some verbiage from their literature.
Ductless Heat Pump How it Works
In the cooling mode, a ductless heat pump operates in essentially the same way as an air conditioner. The inclusion of a reversing valve allows the refrigerant to flow in either direction, which provides both heating and cooling from a single ductless system.
When considering the installation of a ductless heat pump, it is important to understand the relationship between heating efficiency and the outdoor ambient temperature. In general, a heat pump operates most effectively in mild climates that rarely reach the freezing point. An electric heat strip can be installed to provide supplemental heat when necessary.
http://mitsubishiacdealers.com/info/how-does-ductless-workhtps://offgridsolar1.com/
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Mini split HP use inverter compressors, which means that they are capable of running at variable rpm to meet the current load.
More RPM=higher power consumption. At 5 degrees the compressor will be running at it's max speed to output the rated BTU.
These units with todays technology are capable of running in lower temps than 5 degrees they just can't get keep up with the heatloss of the room that's why you need an auxillary heat source if you live in a cold climate. Even at 5 degrees the COP is around 2, electric strip heat has a COP of 1. The other issue at cold temps is that the out door condenser needs to go into a defrost cycle (cooling mode) to melt the ice off of the coil to allow sufficient airflow through the coils. The colder it is outside the more the unit defrosts, when it defrosts it is in cooling mode, which means no warm air is being thrown indoors.
None of the current residential mini splits have installed electric supplemental strip heaters. The compressor has a crankcase heater used to keep liquid refrigerant from accumulating in the oil. Some of the newer units have a pan heater installed in the drain pan under the condenser coil to keep ice from accumulating during the defrost cycle. These 2 heaters are electric resistance heaters and consume approximately 300 watts.
Still even offgrid, if you have the ability to heat in winter this way, then you have a large enough system not to worry about 150 watts. I know the LG's do not use one but they are not rated for really cold weather.
http://www.fujitsugeneral.com/wallmountedRLS3_specs.htm
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http://forum.solar-electric.com/discussion/350124/mini-split-cold-weather-efficiency-study-by-carb
Anyone not getting the idea that a mini-split is not going to heat well as the temperature declines deeply or cool well when it is 130F really should have a secondary source of conditioning a room like many offgrid folks do.
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