Transitional electric blues



  • icarusicarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,114 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Transitional electric blues

    A couple of notes. The reference about 12 psi for full output means that is the minimum pressure required to get full BTU output. One word of caution however. The PH 24 is a HUGE unit, ~175,000 BTU/hr. Even though is is technically a modulating unit, I think your are going to have real trouble using it for just one shower, as the incoming water will be REAL hot, even turned down, and it will require you to mix large amounts of cold to temper the water. Some shower heads and valves may not like that much volume.

    I have used (and still use) a PH 24 in a commercial size kitchen/laundry facility. It does work great, but as I said earlier, it is really big. Contrast it to the PH 6 at ~40,000 BTU/HR, about 1/4 the input BTU rating. We pull water out from under the ice, with an incoming temperature of ~34f (+1C) and have a full blast shower. In the summer when the lake temp nears 20C (68f) we have to turn it down to the minimum and run tons of cold.

    So consider your choice carefully. The vender you list is reputable as far as I know. I have bought some stuff from them over the years. I would really ask how low you can temper the heater down however.

    Good luck,

  • westbranchwestbranch Solar Expert Posts: 5,135 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Transitional electric blues

    FWIW I have a 190,000 BTU modulating water heater that heats a 1350 sq. ft home PLUS supplying all our hot water needs.... in a cold environment where lows reach -40 C ( or F) in winter... the 24 model will burn your skin off in a shower...

    KID #51B  4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
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    Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
    West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
  • HairfarmHairfarm Solar Expert Posts: 225 ✭✭✭
    Re: Transitional electric blues

    The PDF for the Paloma PH24 states: "By setting the unit at the HOT position during the winter and at the warm position during the summer, hot water of stable temperature will be supplied at about 140F." This is on page 10 at the bottom.

    I was leaning toward the PH24 mainly because they don't make the PH 6 or PH12 anymore, and they're damned impossible to find. Also, I've read some pretty bad reviews on the Bosch 1600h unit and it's minimum water pressure of 30psi concerns me.

    Who else on this forum uses a set up like I do?: A pressure tank into a tankless heater. Anyone having success with a Bosch 1600h unit?

    I need to make a decision soon, but I don't want to get "burned" by purchasing the wrong unit. The Paloma appealed to me because it works with a fairly low PSI. If the Paloma hot water is too hot, couldn't I just temper it with cold water?
  • icarusicarus Solar Expert Posts: 5,114 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Transitional electric blues

    You CAN temper the hot with cold, (in fact you will always use some cold) but it will take a considerable amount of cold, adding to your pumping (as well as any drain/septic load).

    I really would steer away from the PH 24 for a cabin/ small house installation. IMHO I think it is just too big. It is a damn shame that they don't make the 6 and the 12 as they are great units. (They also used to make a PH 5 which was the bees knees for a warm water intake system such as a summer lake).

    Consider a Rinnai or Takagi electronic model. Yes there is some electrical energy cost for the control boards and the fan but it is pretty small. I think the Takagi is on the order of 50 watts while running, 5 on standby. If you unplug it at night the standby cost is nothing. If you figure that 50 watts used say one hour a day (would be a lot in my world) would be 25 watt hours,, not too bad.

    As for the bosch, my neighbour has three of them running on small pump/pressure tanks. His are all the standing pilot units and he has no complaints.

    Good luck and keep in touch,

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