MPPT CC | ?Victron ?
KhellSk
Registered Users Posts: 91 ✭✭
Good evening everyone. Im on the market for a mppt of decent quality and operation without breaking the bank. I know EPever are decent but they do have a good percentage of return/replacements. Im looking for a final option kind of thing. I liked victron but I learned that most of them dont have an accessible internal fuse. Some do. If you know which please let me know.
Im going for a 3 x 3 parallel/series of 48w 16.5v 3a. I figured minimum 15a 75V would do it but would prefer 20a to allow room for an other string.
Thanks in advance
I also want to mention that in the past I spent a lot of time here asking tons of questions while I was green and thanks to all of you beautiful people I am much better. You were all (some exceptions xD) a gigantic help and patient with me. If i can build and take care of small systems its all thanks to you. You all deserve a second round of Thank you!
Im going for a 3 x 3 parallel/series of 48w 16.5v 3a. I figured minimum 15a 75V would do it but would prefer 20a to allow room for an other string.
Thanks in advance
I also want to mention that in the past I spent a lot of time here asking tons of questions while I was green and thanks to all of you beautiful people I am much better. You were all (some exceptions xD) a gigantic help and patient with me. If i can build and take care of small systems its all thanks to you. You all deserve a second round of Thank you!
_____________________________________________
[3p3s 48w 15.9Vmp] [Flooded 2x 6v 150ah]
[Victron 50/100 700wMax MPPT]
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Comments
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I would not avoid using a controller without an internal/replaceable fuses... In general, there is a good chance that a "blown" fuse for charge controller/AC inverter/etc. blows--That it will take more than just a fuse replacement to repair the unit. The smaller units generally have no user replaceable parts and just require a full replacement (new unit) to get the system running again. You may have warranty "repairs"--But having to (at best) spend a couple weeks going through the exchange paperwork and actual mailing--There is something to be said to just purchase a smaller/less costly unit and just planning on buying a new one if/when the unit fails.
Regarding fuses... The fuses are there to protect your wiring from overheating and starting a fire if there is a short circuit or equipment failure. For electronics, rarely are systems brought back on line with a fuse replacement.
My suggestion for a good starting point is to use circuit breakers instead of fuses. Fuses and fuse holders for larger circuits (XX to XXX Amps) can be pretty expensive by themselves (and a couple of spare fuses) vs using circuit breakers.
Also circuit breakers are handy on/off switches too (rebooting a controller, turning of power when system is not used--in storage so that battery bank is not discharged to dead while parked from "vampire loads", etc.).
Generally you place the circuit breaker/fuse panel(s) near the battery bank/battery bus. That is where the source of "high current" is... A good sized battery bank can output 100's to 1,000's of Amperes into a dead short--And you want the fuses/breakers to stop the current prior to the short circuit (may be a failed controller, maybe a cut wire somewhere, or just too many loads on the circuit).
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
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