Grid tie in micro inverter WVC1200 220V wiring instructions

JeanLafete

Grid tie in micro inverter WVC1200 220v.  Newbie here working with a WVC1200 220v micro inverter. More I read the directions the more confused I got. When I ordered this I figured that one line to one line and the other line to the other leg, but not sure? This has three wires, L-line, N-neutral, and G-ground. Getting down into the fine print of the directions it shows AC output 220VAC: 180V-262V, 50HZ. The instructions are quite generic as it covers both 120V/220V inverters. Not sure if this would synchronize to 60HZ?  Anyone with suggestions and/or advice?
Thank-you

BB.

Welcome to the Forum JeanLafete,

I am guessing you are in the USA (Texas?).

Do you have a link to the product and manual you can post here? Examples:

https://www.inverter.com/1200-watt-solar-micro-inverter
http://www.powerelek.com/grid-tie-power-inverters/131-wv-230-250-.html

It appears there are two versions of these GT Inverters... A 120 VAC nominal and a 240 VAC nominal... And I have seen websites that list the inverters at 50/60 HZ, and others that listed 120 VAC @ 60 Hz and 230 VAC @ 50 Hz.

Without knowing your exact product--Cannot give you exact answers.

For 120 VAC North American circuits, we have L1 (Hot) and L2 (Hot) and Neutral... With L1-L2 = 240 VAC, and L1-N = 120 VAC, and L2-N = 120 VAC. And N-Ground should be "near" zero volts.

For 240 VAC circuits, L1-L2 = 240 VAC... Some GT Inverters that are designed for 240 VAC have L1/L2/G connections, and others ahve L1/L2/N/G connections. The N does not carry any (useful) current... But the N-G connection is used to ensure that everything is connected correctly (Neutral-Ground bond, no floating Neutrals, etc.). If N-G voltage is >> zero volts, then the inverter will fault.

-Bill

JeanLafete

Hi Bill,  Thank-you for your response. Yes, I am in Texas, half way between Houston and Galveston. I don't have a link that gives the info that you are asking for. I'm looking at the user manual which is Chinese on one side and English on the other side. I am looking at the 220V connection which according to the manual #1 is L, #3 is N, & #2 is G. With a multimeter I measure 98K ohms resistance between L & N.       G is totally open (zero measurement) between L&N. The instructions show a single phase connection and also a three phase connection. In the "System Function" part of the Users Manual it shows the frequency range from 45Hz to 64Hz. Looks like to me that the inverter will sync itself to 220V 60Hz. I have searched for the past several days trying to find the answers. I figured my last resort would be to make-up a harness with 5 amp fuses and "test" it out with a panel. 

BB.

Your connections: #1 is L, #3 is N, & #2 is G

Sounds like that is for a Europe/Rest of the world that runs at 230 VAC (+/-) @ 50 Hz (typically)...

In the USA/North America, we have (for most residences) 120/240 VAC Split Phase 60 Hz power... For 240 VAC inverters, we have L1+L2+N+Grnd or L1+L2+Gnd for GT inverters. There are (a few?) 120 VAC inverters too--And you would see L1+N+Gnd there...

Many GT inverters can work just fine connected to L1+L2 (240 VAC). Newer units may also a N connection (voltage checks between L1+N and/or L2+N -- Looking for 120 VAC. If not found, then a failed neutral/ground connection may be present--And GT inverter will shut down).

In Europe/much of the rest of the world, they have 230 VAC @ 50 Hz power... An L1 and L2 connection (230 VAC) and no second Neutral connection.

One of the connections (L1 or L2) may/usually(?) be bonded to Ground==Although there is not a "world standard" that I have seen that require N+Lx bonding and "polarized" Neutral (I.e., L2=Neutral or something like that). The "average home" may find L1=Ground Bonded, or L2=Ground Bonded, or not polarized, or perhaps no Lx+G bonding.

Regarding N or Lx (whatever) "ground bonding". In North America, we have 3 (or 4) leads... L1 (black), L2 (red), Neutral (white), Safety Ground (green wire). For homes, the Neutral+Ground bonding takes place in the Home's main electrical panel (NOT at the GT inverter--Sp you will not find a N+G bond or zero Ohms resistance).

Could you take the L1+N and connect to the main panel L1+L2? It may connect without sparks... But different countries have different requirements for power connections (as above). Since, in North America, neither L1 or L2 are neutral bonded (i.e., L1-N and L2-N = 120 VAC, and L1-G and L2-G = 120 VAC... And L1-L2 = 240 VAC).

Will the micro inverter measure voltage between N and Ground and "fault" (turn off) if "N" = 120 VAC to ground--I do not know.

Generally, for Grid Tied (Utility Interactive) Solar Inverters, both the local building department and the utility have requirements that these GT Inverters must meet--And the inverters must be NRTL (nationally recognized testing laboratories--Such as UL, CSA, TUV, ETL, etc.).

There should be an NRTL "mark" on the inverter, and a Mfg. Name+Model number (that can be looked up online to confirm NRTL Listing).

If the GT Inverters are not LISTED and/or setup for USA/North America, the local building department inspector/utility may disallow connection.

Can you get help from the company that sold you the inverter?

-Bill

JeanLafete

Hi Bill,  This is what I have found out so far. Question Is this inverter UL rated ?

Seller Answer: Yes, it is UL1741 rated.  I have looked all over the inverter and the only UL marking is on the cables. In the box is a "Qualified Certificate" QC PASS 13, for whatever that may be worth?  I was hoping to run 220V and reduce the current. Hopefully I didn't mess-up in my thinking. Like I said I am a newbie and getting my education. I will do a "test" to see if it will sync, or if I'm back to square one.  Thank-you for your information....... Jim