Tesup 5kw kit

alovellaalovella Registered Users Posts: 3
Hi all, not sure if anyone can help but I recently purchased a 5kw Tesup Wind Turbine with a Charge Controler & 5kw Delta Inverter & it's been 5 weeks now I've had it and installed in it & for the life of me I cannot get it to work. It's three phase & I have all three wires from the Turbine Connected to the Tesup 5kw 48v charge controller where I can switch it between battery's or Grid Tie. I Choose Grid tie. There is then the + - cables going from Charge Controller direct to the input of the Inverter using PV connectors. There is also the plug that came with the Inverter where you add a cable with L N E which I have going to AC disconnect switch then goes from there to Fuse box in the Consumer unit  with recommended 25amp fuse. The Inver has a connection point for earth connection from the metal box to a ground rod.  My issue is The RCD keeps tripping the momment the wind turbine starts spinning. then the msg no grid shows as fault code. I have changed from 30miliamp to 100miliamp RCD (recommended) Does the same. The most Common Fault Code is F24. as I said earlier. have been at this since receiving it 5 weeks ago now and help from Tesup is non excistent. I've reached the end of my tether and have given up for now as I cannot seem to get the help I need. So. i'm hopeing some mirical from here. I have no clue as to how these things work or correctly wired. All testup show me is a video showing the three wires going from Turbine to Controller then 2 wires  from controller to Inverter then inverter to Grid. That's it. I've tried to directly wire to  the grid without the RCD even, but still it shows Code F24. any help Please. I am a bit simple & Disabled so not to teche please. Thanks Tony


  • BB.BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,140 admin
    Can you post a schematic of some sort around the RCD breaker?

    An RCD (residual current disconnect or GFI ground fault interrupter in USA) measures the current going through it and if there is any current flowing "around" the RCD, it assumes that there is a ground fault or some other electrical wiring problem.


    More or less a simple drawing will not "trip" RCD with "floating" power output:

    Power source L1 ===========++++++============== Load 1       
    Power source L2 ===========++++++============== Load 2

    Safety Ground ================================= Safety ground

    With ground referenced power output (L2 is tied to earth ground--Or Neutral+Ground bond in USA terms--Note can be before after RCD):

    Power source L1 ===========++++++============== Load 1       
    Power source L2 ===========++++++=====+======== Load 2
                                                                              [] ground bond
    Safety Ground ========================+======== Safety ground

    With ground referenced power output (L2 is tied to earth ground). And there is a second connection on the other side of the RCD. Whether on purpose (multiple safety grounds) or by accident, a short between Lx and Ground--This allows some current to flow "around the RCD" which is will trip the RCD:

    Power source L1 ===========++++++================ Load 1       
    Power source L2 ==+=======++++++=======+========= Load 2
                                    [] 2nd gnd bond or short      [] ground bond
    Safety Ground====+====================+========= Safety ground

    The RCD is measuring the current through L1 and L2 and the two currents should add up to Zero (i.e, 2 amps AC out L1 and 2 amps AC in through L2)... For AC power systems, this is done with a "transformer" of some type. If the current between L1 and L2 is >100 mAmps (0.1 amps or whatever you are using), then the RCD will trip.

    The alternate current path around the RCD may be something obvious, or may not be so obvious. But that is the basics of how RCDs work.

    In the US, we have Neutral+Ground bond(s) from the utility transformer and at the main electrical feed to the circuit breaker box. And we put RCDs (GFI breakers) on the "output" and run L1+L2+N to our loads/outlets, etc...

    If there is a short (such as dropped in sink of water, somebody touches one of the L1 or L2 leads and could get electrocuted or there is a short to ground wire in the appliance, the GFI will trip.

    With "alternate power sources"--Things can get a bit more complex. For example, smaller AC generators have floating L1+L2 outputs and an GFI/RCD will "never trip" (floating L1 and L2, not current flow if shorted to ground).

    With larger generators, the Genset will take L2 (for example) and tie to safety ground and make this a ground bonded Neutral power conductor. And if plugged into a home with Neutral+Ground bond in the main AC panel (typical), the RCD/GFI on the breaker will trip. In this case we need to choose one location (at genset or at main panel) for the N+G bonding, and disconnect the other....

    Does this help?

    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • alovellaalovella Registered Users Posts: 3
    I think it helps, once it sinks in that is. I keep hearing about N bonding to earth. is L1  live and L2 N? am waiting for a wind turbine expert to see me this week, I hope. maybe things will get sorted as it's been long enough & frustrating. Thanks for your input though, appreciate it.

  • BB.BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,140 admin
    OK... Did a quick check on UK wiring... It looks like you have an L1 and Neutral and Ground... And the Neutral is tied to ground somewhere upstream of your distribution/breaker panel:


    In the new color code, Blue is Neutral, and Brown is Hot (230 VAC to Neutral, and 230 VAC to ground too).

    There are several RCD ratings... There are ones that are rated around 0.010 Ampere (10 mAmp) trip. And others that are rated upwards of 50-100 mAmp (I am guessing).

    The 10 mAmp are intended for individual circuits (blender/mixer/etc.) The 100 mAmp are intended to protect the "whole home" (more or less as I guess).

    The Tesup wind turbine manual is here:


    In this setup--There is a Turbine=>Charge controller=>Battery bank=>AC inverter=>230 VAC 50 Hz inverter output...

    I am a bit confused here... How are you using the AC inverter? This is a battery powered system for off grid power? Or is the inverter setup in Grid Tied/Utility Interactive mode and tied to your utility/home power? A quick look through the manual was pretty confusing (mixing/matching incompatible solar/wind hardware on the AC mains????).

    Anyway... From what you describe, it sounds like you have the Brown (hot), Blue (neutral), and green or green+yellow wires possibly mixed up somewhere between the AC inverter Hot/N/G connections and, eventually, to the RCD+Meter+Utility feed (or RCD to local AC loads).

    Note that older UK code has Red for hot, Black for Neutral, and green/YG for ground.

    You need to make sure that Inverter Hot (Red or Brown) goes all the way to the RCD Hot (Red or Black). And the inverter Neutral (Black or Blue) goes alway the way to the RCD Neutral (Black or Blue). And the Green/Yellow+Green carries through to your ground bus and never contacts the H or N wiring (at least on the home side of the RCD).

    It is possible that your H/N/G from the AC inverter output is not wired correctly (possibly Neutral and Ground) wires are cross connected somewhere on their way to the RCD output. When the turbine starts spinning and generating 230 VAC  current, that wire pair (H+N) is not making its way to the RCD terminals.

    Or possibly the Neutral (most likely) is connected/shorted to ground somewhere between AC inverter output and RCD terminals. This creates the parallel current path for Neutral and Safety Ground each sharing part of the power current. And the Green wire/ground bypases the RCD--And the RCD measures that H + N currents and sees that the Neutral is not carrying its "fair share" of current (equal and opposite current of Hot)--And then trips.

    Depending on your existing home wiring--I have seen some (especially much older homes in the USA) that have reversed Hot and Neutral wiring--And everything still works... But "breaks" when a GFI/RCD is added to the system. Sometimes you have to inspect every connection in your home/green power system to make sure that no old or new wiring mistakes are made (or no sharp condit cut/shored the wiring somewhere).

    That is the best I can do without knowing a bit more about the detail sof your installation (AC inverter type usage, on grid/off grid, where is RCD installed vs AC inverter/loads/utility power/etc.).

    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • BB.BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,140 admin
    L1 and N are both power leads. If L1 is carrying 10 amps, N is carrying 10 amps back to the power source.

    By "ground bonding" Neutral and safety ground, it allows the electrical system to be built a little cheaper (fewer breakers--Only need 1 circuit breaker on L1 vs needing two breakers on L1 and N if neutral is "floating" or polarity of power plugs and such is not respected) and safer (always "know" that N is near zero volts and L1 is never higher than 230 VAC).

    The green wire safety ground should never carry current to/from the AC loads. It only carries current if there is a short circuit between ground and L1 (or Neutral--which can trip the RCD).

    Electrically, with a G+N bonded power system... Yes, Neutral and Ground pretty much behave the same way when carrying power (i.e. the AC load could have Ground (Green) and N (blue) wire mixed up... The device will work find, but, if there is an RCD, the RCD will trip because the power current is now flowing through the Green wire and bypassing the RCD current measurement section and cause the RCD to trip.

    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
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