Connector Type
System
Posts: 2,511 admin
Is there a significant difference in the connection type junction (box vs cable). I plan on installing a pair of 130/135 on my sailboat. Also what would be the preferred controller? Thanks for your help.
Mike
Mike
Comments
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Re: Connector Type
At this point--I would probably suggest the cabled panel instead of junction boxes... It is almost impossible to fully seal a j-box--normally you have to drill a weep hole to let the condensation and leaks through the fittings drain out.
You don't say where you are--so don't know about how much power you intend to harvest from the panels--note that any shading on the panels (lines, sails, railings) will dramatically reduce their output.
What ever charge controller you purchase--make sure it comes with a remote battery temperature sensor option (and get the RBTS). Batteries are very temperature sensitive and you will get much better results with a RBTS connected to the battery).
Controller wise--the Morning Star 15 Amp MPPT solar charge controller is hard to beat... However, if you have a 12 volt system--the maximum supported wattage of panels is 200 watts (400 watts for 24 volt battery bus).
Solar Guppy (or Morning Star themselves) can probably give you a better answer if the controller will work OK with 2x130 watt panels at 12 volts... If you have lots of shading and are in a warm/hot climate--I think that the Morning Star MPPT controller will simply cut back on on the solar panel power--you will just waste some available wattage on a cool / clear day with good sun angle. However, being able to run the two panels in series as a 24 volt string connected to a 12 volt battery bank may help make up when shadows play accross the panels).
Otherwise a Prostar 30 amp controller (connected to 12 volt panels and 12 volt battery bank) would probably be a good place to start.
-BillNear San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset -
Re: Connector Type
the sunsaver mppt would limit the output current to 15a so if the pvs put more out than 15a then power is being wasted. 2 of these can be used or one larger mppt controller. in fact, a simple pwm style controller could also be used, but current gains will not be present because there's no mppt present at a much lower cost for the controller. definitely get a battery temperature sensor for the controller you choose and you will need special connecting wires for the pigtailed pvs as cutting these connections off could void any warranty on the pvs.
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