Whole House Transfer Switches

Could anyone explain how a whole house automatic transfer switch is properly wired?
I'm talking about a 200A combo service panel and a 20kW, 75A generator.
Not talking about the transfer panels that just move a number of branch circuits or manual switches.
How do you tap into the feeders between the meter and main breaker without violating the listing of the combo panel?
I'm talking about a 200A combo service panel and a 20kW, 75A generator.
Not talking about the transfer panels that just move a number of branch circuits or manual switches.
How do you tap into the feeders between the meter and main breaker without violating the listing of the combo panel?
Comments
Since the generator is over 15kw it will need its own disconnect.
What are you going to run that needs 75 amps?
That is going to be about a 20kw generator and will suck fuel like no tomorrow.
Solar hybrid gasoline generator, 7kw gas, 180 watts of solar, Morningstar 15 amp MPPT, group 31 AGM, 900 watt kisae inverter.
Solar roof top GMC suburban, a normal 3/4 ton suburban with 180 watts of panels on the roof and 10 amp genasun MPPT, 2000w samlex pure sine wave inverter, 12v gast and ARB air compressors.
Is the transfer switch service rated? Do you have a meter and main disconnect combo? If so I would just install it after the meter/main. Unless I'm misunderstanding, seems like you are wanting to put the transfer switch in between the meter and main disconnect of the combo unit?
Yes, the transfer switch is service rated and needs to switch power to the main panel (thus making the existing main panel really a sub-panel).
I know back east the meter box and main panel are usually separate, but around here the panels are usually outside and are combo panels with the meter built in.
How do you get the transfer switch in between the main disconnect and the breaker bus? Only thing I can see is to wire the transfer switch to the breaker bus with 3/0 and move all the circuits to a subpanel off the transfer switch. But is there a way to not have to move all the circuits by getting in between the main disconnect and the breaker buss?
Why is this much backup power needed? I guess when the shtf, some people can afford to not give up any comforts....
Yes there are some utilities that have real annoying and silly requirements. Do you think you can add a stand alone meter socket, put the transfer switch between that and the existing combo, and put a bypass plate over the combo meter socket?
Or many of those combos have a piece of regular conductor connecting the meter to the panel bus. Could you remove that and run new conductors to your transfer switch? I see no a issue if listed lugs and conductors are used.
You can keep all the comforts with a much smaller fuel consumption. 20 kw will be 4 gallons of LP per hour even with no load. If you need the capacity in order to run 1 or 2 whole-house A/Cs (just guessing) consider adding a much smaller genset for your baseline loads. Then you have the bonus of having an N + 1 backup. Small one goes down, you have the big one.
Even my little 7kw which is rated to consume a disastrous .77 gallons of fuel at half load can run my entire house with ease. Only thing it wont run is my stick welder at full power or my plasma cutter at full power.
Why not save thousands upon thousands of dollars, do a manual transfer and get a reasonable sized generator?
If you cant pull off a manual transfer on your own when SHTF then I only expect you to last as long as your fuel supply, if that.
Solar hybrid gasoline generator, 7kw gas, 180 watts of solar, Morningstar 15 amp MPPT, group 31 AGM, 900 watt kisae inverter.
Solar roof top GMC suburban, a normal 3/4 ton suburban with 180 watts of panels on the roof and 10 amp genasun MPPT, 2000w samlex pure sine wave inverter, 12v gast and ARB air compressors.
It works, its fool proof and its free.
But I guess some people just like throwing away money.
Solar hybrid gasoline generator, 7kw gas, 180 watts of solar, Morningstar 15 amp MPPT, group 31 AGM, 900 watt kisae inverter.
Solar roof top GMC suburban, a normal 3/4 ton suburban with 180 watts of panels on the roof and 10 amp genasun MPPT, 2000w samlex pure sine wave inverter, 12v gast and ARB air compressors.
There is meter base automatic transfer switch:
GenerLink.com
Attachment not found.
-Bill
I noticed "Generlink.com" didn't have a price posted for their product. And that tells me if you have to ask how much it is, you cant afford it or you wont want to spend that much on it.
I am sure you could have a electrician put in a sub panel, to install a generator feed and you could pull your power meter to grid disconnect all for a fraction of the price of that what that "Generlink" costs.
Heck, you might even be able to buy a 7 to 10kw generator, hire an electrician to put in a sub panel and set up your generator back feed for less than what that generlink costs.
Solar hybrid gasoline generator, 7kw gas, 180 watts of solar, Morningstar 15 amp MPPT, group 31 AGM, 900 watt kisae inverter.
Solar roof top GMC suburban, a normal 3/4 ton suburban with 180 watts of panels on the roof and 10 amp genasun MPPT, 2000w samlex pure sine wave inverter, 12v gast and ARB air compressors.
-Bill
The Generlink is only for smaller generators.
Solar hybrid gasoline generator, 7kw gas, 180 watts of solar, Morningstar 15 amp MPPT, group 31 AGM, 900 watt kisae inverter.
Solar roof top GMC suburban, a normal 3/4 ton suburban with 180 watts of panels on the roof and 10 amp genasun MPPT, 2000w samlex pure sine wave inverter, 12v gast and ARB air compressors.