Upgrading present system

Jim45DJim45D Solar Expert Posts: 102 ✭✭
I'm in the process of upgrading my system with a new CC, heavier wire, and creating strings to go to the combiner box. The old distance was some 22' from the combiner with #10, and a Solar Boost (Bluesky) 2000e CC. with one string. The new strings will consist of 3 to 4 depending on what I can do with an additional set of panels. I will start with #1, and #2 strings consisting of 2X 80W Kyocera's in each string. They're all matched at 16.9 Vmp, and 4.73 A each. Since I have purchased an additional panel. A Kyocera 85 W., they say 87W. It is 17.4 V, with 5.02 amps, (See photos).

The new wiring will be #6 running (both directions) not exceeding a length of 9' from the farthest panel (string) to the combiner. The closest will be 2.5' from the combiner. The 85 W. Kyocera will have it's own wiring to the box. While searching for wiring and connectors in my remote storage shed I came upon a set of 3 Siemen's panels that I had built some 8 years previously, stored, and forgotton.

Question is: They aren't much at 10.5 watts each. However, combined they will produce (hopefully) around 2+ additional amps. Can these 3 10 watters be spliced into the junction box of the Kyocera 85 watter, or do they have to be placed on a separate string? The Vmp's are the same as the Kyocera, and they'll be ran in parallel.Should there be a separate CC for the combination panel, if It can be done?

The new controller is a Morningside 45 PWM CC, charging never below 40% DOD of 312 Amp Hrs. of Sun Xtender 1040T's. Incidently the CC will be within 2' of the batteries in a separate compartment on #4 wire. The distance from the combiner box to CC is approx. 5', using #8. This installation is on a RV. Specs are shown on the back of the panels.
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Comments

  • vtmapsvtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,738 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    I am a little confused by your description... do I have this right?

    Parallel string 1: two 80w kyocera in series, Vmp = 16.9 volts each
    Parallel string 2: two 80w kyocera in series, Vmp = 16.9 volts each
    Parallel string 3: one 87w kyocera, Vmp = 17.4 volts
    Parallel string 4: Siemens, Vmp about 17 volts
    Parallel string 5: Siemens, Vmp about 17 volts
    Parallel string 6: Siemens, Vmp about 17 volts

    This system as I have described it won't work, but I'm not sure I have described what you are intending to do... please clarify.

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    I'm confused about what the OP wants to do too. Agree 100% with vtMaps; if that's the plan, it's a no-go.

    Reiterate panel mixing litany:
    Series connected panels must have Imp within 5% (10% maximum).
    Parallel connected panels (or strings) must have Vmp within 5% (10% maximum).
    More than two parallel connections or parallel connections of significantly different Imp must be fused.

    It seems your existing strings are Vmp 33.8 and Imp 4.7?
    The KD87 is Vmp 17.4 and Imp 5?
    The Siemens panels are Vmp 17 and Imp 0.6?

    If you put the KD with one Siemens you get a string with Vmp 34.4, but the Siemens Imp is far too low to go in series with the Kyocera.

    Two of the Siemens panels in series would work with the original strings (Vmp 34, Imp 0.6) but should be fused (1 Amp) and frankly won't contribute enough to bother with. Most of their power output will probably be lost in the wiring run.
  • Jim45DJim45D Solar Expert Posts: 102 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system
    vtmaps wrote: »
    I am a little confused by your description... do I have this right?

    Parallel string 1: two 80w kyocera in series, Vmp = 16.9 volts each
    Parallel string 2: two 80w kyocera in series, Vmp = 16.9 volts each
    Parallel string 3: one 87w kyocera, Vmp = 17.4 volts
    Parallel string 4: Siemens, Vmp about 17 volts
    Parallel string 5: Siemens, Vmp about 17 volts
    Parallel string 6: Siemens, Vmp about 17 volts

    This system as I have described it won't work, but I'm not sure I have described what you are intending to do... please clarify.

    --vtMaps

    OK, I will try to clarify it this way. String 1, ran in parallel...16.9Vmp, 9.46 amps.
    String 2. Identical to string 1. Vmp still 16.9... Now 18.92 amps.
    String 3. 87 watt at 17.4 Vmp, 5.02 amps.,...now increasing the total amps to 23.94 amps. No additional strings.

    Here's where I'm confused. I have the three extra panels, not much at 17.4 Vmp,(matching the Kyocera, as far as voltages of 17.4) total amps ~2.0. I would like to take the wiring from these 3, tie the positive leads together, and the negative leads together....then incorporate these leads into the junction box of the 87 amp Kyocera in parallel, making it one panel to increase, mabey the amperage of that one panel to roughly ~89 amps. Still 17.4 Vmp.

    Three strings to the combiner box. All I hope to do is add the amperage of all. Hopefully ending up with roughly~25 amps at the combiner box.
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    The thing that started the confusion was this from your first post:
    I will start with #1, and #2 strings consisting of 2X 80W Kyocera's in each string.

    That implies that String #1 and String #2 each have two panels for a total of 160 Watts per string. If it's only one panel per, we don't need to use the term "string" which implies two or more panels connected in series. Let's be clear on this: you already have four 80 Watt panels in parallel? If so, each of these should already have its own fuse.

    As for paralleling all these individual panels, the Vmp ranges from 16.9 to 17.4 which are all close enough for such connections.

    However, it will be necessary to fuse each panel according to its Isc rating to prevent the others from "overwhelming" one if something should go wrong.

    You would then have:
    Panel 1). 80 Watt 16.9 Vmp 4.7 Imp
    Panel 2). 80 Watt 16.9 Vmp 4.7 Imp
    Panel 3). 80 Watt 16.9 Vmp 4.7 Imp
    Panel 4). 80 Watt 16.9 Vmp 4.7 Imp
    Panel 5). 87 Watt 17.4 Vmp 5.0 Imp
    Panel 6). 10 Watt 17.0 Vmp 0.6 Imp
    Panel 7). 10 Watt 17.0 Vmp 0.6 Imp
    Panel 8 ). 10 Watt 17.0 Vmp 0.6 Imp

    Total Array 437 Watts 17.0 Vmp (avg) 25.6 Imp

    Are we getting closer to a correct description?
  • Jim45DJim45D Solar Expert Posts: 102 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    Yes, that is what I'm looking for. I apologise for the confusion. Now, please explain exactly how I should go about the process of wiring these together. Also, will this be enough to keep the 312 amp hours of batteries properly? I do have a large 2k watt inverter, as I will omit from the setup and go with a 300 or 600 watt inverter. I have been looking at the Samlex. There's nothing wrong with the Heart inverter. It's just too big for what I need. I have neither the space for additional batteries, nor the real estate for installing additional panels. However, I was led down the path of larger purchases, more $$$ at the beginning.
  • vtmapsvtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,738 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    I think that Cariboocoot's description (based on your 2nd post) is likely to be what you have. I think also that you 'spliced' together two panels (what you called a string) in parallel before you brought them into a combiner box. That is not safe!

    Let me amplify on something that Cariboocoot mentioned:

    You need a new combiner box that can receive the wires from all 8 panels. The combiner box will have 8 fuses (or circuit breakers), one for each panel. This is an important safety issue. If one of your panels becomes faulty the other 7 panels can push enough current through the faulty panel to cause a fire.

    Note: when there are only two equal panels in parallel it is not necessary to fuse them because when 1 panel fails it is rated to handle the current of the other panel. If you have two unequal panels in parallel, it is necessary to fuse only the smaller panel.

    By the way, if you had 6 of the kyocera panels you could hook them up as two strings with three panels (in series) in each string. Each string would be 51 volts. You would not need fuses in either of the two equal strings. You would, however, need an MPPT type of charge controller. MPPT controllers are more expensive than PWM controllers, but the simplification of the combiner box is one of the several offsetting factors to the higher price.

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    vtMaps has the connections issue covered! :D

    I think going with a smaller inverter is a good idea, as they tend to consume less power for themselves. Why "feed" a 2kW inverter 20 Watts (or more) if you only need <300 Watts of power? You can get that from a Morningstar 300 Watt inverter for only 6 Watts running. An important power savings.

    You'll have 437 Watts of panel total with a potential of about 25 Amps combined output. That works out to around 8% peak charge current on 312 Amp hours of 12 Volt battery so it should work, providing you keep the depth of discharge low. You're looking at 672 Watt hours AC "out the door".

    Now we'll start worrying you about another potential problem here; all those panels will be how far away from the charge controller? You're adding about 7 Amps of current to the same Voltage which will affect the Voltage drop on the wiring. The existing run may not be sufficient to handle the additional panels. V-drop can be a big problem on 12 Volt systems.
  • Jim45DJim45D Solar Expert Posts: 102 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    Ok. I understand. What I was attempting to do was tie 2 of the Kc's together in parallel, making it a total of 160 watts each, and 9.46 amps. From there running a #6 wire to the combiner box.

    Continuing on with the second set of panels, wired as the above.....ran with another #6 to the combiner box. Now I would have all four panels connected for a total of 320 watts, and 18.92 amps. So far I have ran two wires to the combiner box, (4 pair).

    The third, nothing has been spliced yet. That was the biggest question. Can I splice the leads...respective to each other + to +, and - to - within the junction box of the third panel. Therefore making it a three wire run from all the panels (2 pair in each wire) to the JB. The reason for the not yet applied splicing was to get the 3 smaller 10.5 watt panels to become one with the Kyocera 87 watt panel, making it roughly~ 118 watts. Yes, and fusing in each connection at the JB.

    Everything ran in parallel. Giving me a total of roughly~25 amps at the JB. From there a #8 to the charge controller (5' distance), and #4 from the charge controller, (mabey 2' distance) to the batteries.
  • Jim45DJim45D Solar Expert Posts: 102 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    The length of the farthest panel from the JB is less than 7' away. Mabey I'm in overkill mode with the #6's running from the panels to the JB. Yes, agreed on the inverter. However, as I stated in a earlier post.......I didn't know any better, and was led down the path of extra $$$. It works, but I don't have that many loads in this RV. I have a kill-a-watt meter checking on the TV as I write, and it will go from there.
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    Two things:
    One, the distance from each panel to the junction box. The wiring here has to be able to handle the current & Voltage from each panel. This is not much of a problem, as you haven't got more than 5 Amps from any panel. With 5 Amps, 7 feet, and 12 Volts I get 10 AWG wire yielding only 0.6% V-drop.
    Two, the distance from the junction box to the charge controller. This is usually the long run and will be carrying the most Amps. Like vtMaps said, the fuses should be at the junction box; one per panel.

    You can not parallel panels and get them to act like one. If you put two panels together and fuse it for the total current the fuse can pass that much current from other panels and add it to the output of one of the "parallel combined" panels then back-feed it into the other "parallel combined" panel if it should short out. Each panel acts independently and has to be treated as such. Don't splice leads together; run each to the combiner box, fuse it, then make the parallel connections. You may need a bigger box to handle all the wires.

    Proper fusing is especially important on those small panels, as the others can put out 4 to 5 times as much current as the 10 Watt units are capable of handling. Very easy to fry one of those.
  • westbranchwestbranch Solar Expert Posts: 5,183 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    you can not connect panels producing more than 20 amps ISC in total

    Section 4. of the SB 2000e manual:
    h) Do not connect to a PV array capable of producing greater than 20 amperes of short circuit current (ISC) or 24V of open circuit voltage (VOC) @ STC.

    HTH
     
    KID #51B  4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
    CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM 
    Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
    2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
    Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
    West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system
    westbranch wrote: »
    you can not connect panels producing more than 20 amps ISC in total

    Section 4. of the SB 2000e manual:
    h) Do not connect to a PV array capable of producing greater than 20 amperes of short circuit current (ISC) or 24V of open circuit voltage (VOC) @ STC.

    HTH

    This sounds familiar. Didn't we just go through this with someone else? :roll:

    I've got to stop assuming people realize they need to upgrade their charge controller once the panel capacity exceeds the original unit's specs. :blush:
  • Jim45DJim45D Solar Expert Posts: 102 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system
    This sounds familiar. Didn't we just go through this with someone else? :roll:

    I've got to stop assuming people realize they need to upgrade their charge controller once the panel capacity exceeds the original unit's specs. :blush:

    I stated in my first post that the upgrade would consist of a new Morning Star 45 PWM charge controller.
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system
    Jim45D wrote: »
    I stated in my first post that the upgrade would consist of a new Morning Star 45 PWM charge controller.

    Thank goodness! At my age déjà vu can be dangerous. :blush:

    But you might want to limit yourself to a 30 Amp ProStar: http://www.solar-electric.com/ps-30.html
  • Jim45DJim45D Solar Expert Posts: 102 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    Well, I would have went with a Prostar except the Morning Star has already been purchased, and I may want to add one more Kyocera 87 later, thus eliminating the [email protected] 10 watt Siemens. I haven't got to the roof as of yet. Just getting advise, making drawings, etc. Compiling a list for wires, connecting lugs, heat shrink, etc. It is 93° in the shade here presently, and that's in the shade with a remote temp sensor placed under the RV atop a tire. I'm afraid to guess what the temp is on the roof. Anyway, all the upgrading will have to be done at night, or in the wee hours of the mornings. Yes, the majority of my equipment comes from NAWS. They're approx 165 miles away. In fact I recently placed an order with them, with more to follow in the near future.
  • Jim45DJim45D Solar Expert Posts: 102 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    Mabey this visualation will better explain what I'm attempting to accompolish.
    I was trying to upload a file of the setup, but it doesn't want to load properly.
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    What sort/size file are you trying to upload?
  • Jim45DJim45D Solar Expert Posts: 102 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    The file is a 835Kb photo of the setup. I've tried it several times to no avail. I'll try again. I guess I'm doing something wrong.
  • Jim45DJim45D Solar Expert Posts: 102 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    Here's the proposed layout. This time it worked alright.
  • Jim45DJim45D Solar Expert Posts: 102 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    I don't want to sound ungrateful for the advise many of you here have given. However, here's where my confusion begins. When I first decided to go solar in my RV some 11 years ago. Here's the directions I got from a dealer in Scottsdale, Az. I want to say it was "The Solar Store", but can't quite remember. Anyway he, (the owner) published a book dealing with installations on a RV. Say's the book, "It's so easy that a 80 year old grandma could do it.!) Rather than use quotes, I'll proceed as such, and this was from the book titled "Living with 12 volts.) They said that most RV's from the factories, unless modified by request, or done by the owner was all 12 volt systems. Wired for all lights, appliances, TV, blender, etc. However, if one wanted, after installation of a solar system.....deemed it necessary to operate appliances other than 12 volts, then obviously a inverter was required. Along with a bigger battery bank. Most RV's are equipped with a starting batt, and a house batt...thru switching they can be combined.

    The wiring was all parallel. The panels were all "daisey chained" together to achieve the ultimate amperage that one wanted or needed for recharging batteries. Period! They said to mount the installation by using the refrigerator vent as a easy route to prevent un-wanted drilling into the roof, mount the CC above the refrigerator, then connect to the batteries. Voltage drop galore. There was no combiner box, fuses, series, or anything else mentioned in as far as installation. I chose not to mount the CC above the location suggested. I wanted to keep everything in close proximity to the battery location, which was on the opposite side of the RV. I wired the first panel, and waited for the second one to arrive before making any connections.

    When the second panel arrived I simply done as directed, and wired the panel to the first....+ to +, and - to -. From there, again as suggested, connected enough length to go from the second panel, through the roof to the CC. This was measured at 16.8 volts with a current of 9.44 amps. Then connected that to the CC, and ran a #6 to the batteries for some 2.5 feet. I lived with that for almost two years until I wanted to go with more amperage. I daisey chained another panel of the same volts & amperage...now increasing my amperage to roughly ~13.8 amps, approximately 6 months later I added a fourth panel with identical specs. At that time I went a different CC, and now my amperage was ~18.89. That has been working now going on 12 years.

    Keep in mind....no combiner box, no fuses, no breakers, nothing except the original #10 UV protected pair (sheathed) running to the CC at about 7 feet from the first panel, and approx. 2.5 feet from the last panel. When adding a extra panel, I simply wired it into the previous panels junction box. The panels once again were all daisey chained to the first, and connected in parallel. I would have gone with two more had not Kyocera stopped producing them, before I could afford to make the aquisition. Therefore, I wouldn't accept a replacement, or another brand. Then after a lot of searching...about three years worth when I decided to go with the KC 87 watter. That's where all heck broke loose.

    Can someone please clarify to me why after all the years I've used this setup.....now it's combiner boxes, separate individual runs, fuses, etc. I can grasp the larger CC because my amperage had exceed what I have on hand. I have read at this very forum, I just can't find it readily......that in parallel runs the voltage (within identical voltage panels) will remain the same, and amperage increases. With series....the opposite prevails. Also, it doesn't matter what the amperage is in a 12 volt panel, as long as the voltage is the same.....amperage will add/increase. I do realize that with the 17.4 KC compared with the KC 16.9 that they will not match. The voltage and current is going to find the smallest opening....that being the less of the two. Therefore, I've lost some, and without measuring I won't know what, or how much to be exact.

    This is why I find it confusing about combining the 17.4 volt KC with a 17.4 volt Siemens....they'd be in parallel anyway, so the amps, although not a lot would simply add to the amperage of the larger panel. Would they not? The thing that stymies me is the fact that for many years the existing panels have been working just fine on one #10 wire ran directly to the CC. Confusion begins here. Perhaps it's somewhat relative to grid tie, or mabey a hybrid system....but I am totally stand alone. Some of the grid- tie folks around here, and more remote are constantly purchasing more batteries, and panels.....as the grid operates fine as long as there's not three drops of rain, or the wind blows over 5 mph. With 25 drops there's a flood washout. Or mabey some drunk runs into a power pole, or a copper thief want's extra copper for his or her sniffing habit. I have seen it out for 10 minutes, up to 38 hours at various times in the last 14 years.

    Is this something NEC has decided, or customers have discovered perhaps a fire due to undesize wires, faulty wiring I have a neighbor that wired his 4 panels with regular 12-2 household romax, until it corroded. ? I won't get into that at this time, but I do know that I've managed alright with what I have, except for the latest addition of the KC 87.

    I apologise for the short novel, but confusion exists in large amounts here, and getting worse. Perhaps it's the grid-tie vs stand alone senario. I don't know. Incidently before I left regular phone service and went strictly cellular....lightining struck the telephone box outside on a pole, went to the top of the power pole and blasted both areas to smitherines. Needless to say it also got my computer, as I was online (dial-up) at the time. That was five years ago. All solar went unscathed.......no boxes, no fuses, no breakers. The amazing thing was the sun was shining, and the sky was clear. APS, and the phone Co, Qwest at the time said the lightning could have developed some 40 miles away. Instead it struck me in the middle of nowhere.
  • vtmapsvtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,738 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    Jim, I think that you should think of it this way... my grandfather didn't use seat belts: "I've been doing it this way since before you were born...". He also used to put a penny under the screw-in fuses to keep them from blowing when overloaded. He got away with it.

    You have gotten away with it with your solar setup for 11 years. Be grateful.

    Another thing: DC current is very different from AC current. Using AC techniques on DC circuits can be dangerous. Did you know, for example, that removing a fuse from your combiner box during daylight hours can cause a fire? That is because DC current sustains an arc much better than AC current. AC current drops to zero 120 times per second and that helps extinguish the arc. DC switches and circuit breakers are different from AC breakers and switches. Faults in DC systems are more dangerous. The NEC keeps changing as the solar industry matures. Now they want arc fault protection in DC circuits.

    I understand your frustration. The motto of my neighboring state, New Hampshire, is 'Live Free or Die'. Its a great place to go camping!

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • CariboocootCariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    Technically you do not need fuses/breakers for a system to function. It's a safety issue. If something goes wrong and there is no circuit protection enough current can overheat and ignite the wiring.
    Wiring itself can get away with murder, so to speak. We size it for the maximum current potential, but it usually never operates in that range. Solar panels particularly don't see these maximums as they rely on full sun is cool temperatures plus a sufficient load demand to achieve them. So their actual output is a "bell curve", rising by midday, which gets "flattened" by the panel temperature increasing as the power goes up and the load demand decreasing as the batteries charge.
    Plus, wire can take higher-than-rated current momentarily, and will have different Ampacity according to its application; mainly dependent on how well it can radiate heat (inside conduit reduces capacity as opposed to in free air).

    Be advised that lots of "professionals" (so-called) do improper electrical installs of all types, and most of the time get away with it because of these margins (NEC's famous derating rules for example). Around here we stick with proper, legal, safe wiring practices that protect against most ("all" would be impossible) potential problems. Even so there are occasional lively debates as rules can be interpreted differently. Grounding, for example, is one of the major "fun" topics! :roll:

    Electricity functions according to known principals, regardless of current type or Voltage. But there are a lot of principals involved. It is a very complex subject and easily confusing, occasionally even to those of us who have been working with it for decades. (Okay, in my case more than occasionally. The decades can also "get" you. :blush: )
  • Jim45DJim45D Solar Expert Posts: 102 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    Thank you Cariboocoot & Vtmaps for your replys. I can relate to the senario of simply "getting away with it." The penny behind the 15 amp fuses (two each, many times) also bring back memories of seeing the same thing, and actually doing it. The decade senario has probably also been the culprit on my part. At nearly pushing 7 of them does take it's toll. I believe I'll go with at least the fuses, and follow advisable suggestions from you guys. Thanks again on the reminders. I just have to "back up and regroup."
  • westbranchwestbranch Solar Expert Posts: 5,183 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    If you can not fit in a combiner box there are Auto stereo fuse blocks you can use (in reverse) for fusing the PV inputs then combining. Lots on ebay, search for fuse distribution block.
     
    KID #51B  4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
    CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM 
    Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
    2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
    Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
    West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
  • Jim45DJim45D Solar Expert Posts: 102 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    Thanks for the input. I have started a search, first with our host for ganged circuit fuse blocks. None there. Beings that I'm re-wiring all panels ([email protected]) can I use a marine class fuse block with 15amp blade type fuses for each panel connection. If so, I can mount this into a high grade plastic electrical box with waterproof cover, and go from there.
  • westbranchwestbranch Solar Expert Posts: 5,183 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    Not knowing the distances from the combiner to the CC it is hard to say. you will need to check the gauge needed. Some of the blocks will take up to O, others 2/4/6 ga. etc, choose after determining the ga.needed.

    hth
     
    KID #51B  4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
    CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM 
    Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
    2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
    Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
    West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
  • Jim45DJim45D Solar Expert Posts: 102 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    The distance from the location of the fuse block to the CC would be approx. 5.5', and I'd like to use #6. It will accomodate that guage.
  • westbranchwestbranch Solar Expert Posts: 5,183 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system

    sounds like a 'go' then. that one should allow for a nice neat install, nice and flat against the wall.
     
    KID #51B  4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
    CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM 
    Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
    2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
    Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
    West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
  • vtmapsvtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,738 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system
    Jim45D wrote: »
    Beings that I'm re-wiring all panels ([email protected]) can I use a marine class fuse block with 15amp blade type fuses for each panel connection. If so, I can mount this into a high grade plastic electrical box with waterproof cover, and go from there.

    Your panels are rated to produce about 5 Amps each. I think a 10 amp fuse would be better protection. --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • Jim45DJim45D Solar Expert Posts: 102 ✭✭
    Re: Upgrading present system
    vtmaps wrote: »
    Your panels are rated to produce about 5 Amps each. I think a 10 amp fuse would be better protection. --vtMaps

    You're right, I got that 15 figure stuck in my brain from going through the site trying to determine what gage wire it would accomondate. However, I'm glad you mentioned it. I will remember the 10 amp blade when I place the order.
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