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Commenting is the best way to get involved. Jump in the fray!November 16
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voxelman earned the Photogenic badge.Little things like uploading a profile picture make the community a better place. Thanks!November 17
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Tilendor earned the First Anniversary badge.Thanks for sticking with us for a full year.November 16
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Fry999 earned the 10 Comments badge.No longer a one-hit wonder! It looks like you’re going places.November 16
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Dee earned the First Comment badge.Commenting is the best way to get involved. Jump in the fray!November 15
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Little things like uploading a profile picture make the community a better place. Thanks!November 14
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Not well informed re solar and new to off grid power user with several questions. My property is located in Upstate NY, hit and humid in summer with bitter cold winters.
I have purchased three different inverters, and two 12v auto batteries used to run LED lights, a 60w incandescent, the fan for a 30,000 btu propane heater, and as a test, a highly efficient small refrigerator with varying degrees of success. My electrician suggested a solar system to recharge the batteries after running them parallel. After researching, I understand the concept and recognize the need for proper setup as well as analysis of power needs.
My 400w emergency inverter made to take power from a battery installed in a vehicle gives 30-35 hours running either lights or heater fan, and would not power the frig. The 2000w max/900w continuous inverter ran the frig perfectly during hot summer for 4.5 hours before beeping.
I then bought an inverter labeled 3000-4000-5000w which claims to be sufficient for power tools. The two larger inverters say Solar/sine wave inverters. I also purchased the 25w solar panel kit and a 100w regulator from Harbor Freight.
I would like to run a parallel array and set the solar panel to recharge it. I want to run a very dependable 750w heater with thermostat to keep the temperature above 48 degrees in a mobile home. The panel would be mounted vertically facing due south with no obstruction for at least 100 yards where leafless trees help to block wind but no light. The heater would be plugged into a surge protector and connected by a 25’ outdoor rated extension cord.
I want to set the array into a fiberglass bathtub that is not connected to a water source (no faucet), to avoid contact with wood or metal or accidental contact by humans or pets.
Am I close to meeting my needs or setting myself up to fail?
Thank you for your help!0November 14 -
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Some types, rigid types made for domestic waste lines, for example, may not stand up to the temperature, pressure, and/or UV exposure involved in a solar water heating application. This response of yours was exactly correct.The pipe got too hot to use, it expanded under pressure and got so thin pin holes began to appear the water started to leak out.0November 14 -
NewBe earned the First Comment badge.Commenting is the best way to get involved. Jump in the fray!November 13
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Commenting is the best way to get involved. Jump in the fray!November 12
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No longer a one-hit wonder! It looks like you’re going places.November 11
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Welcome Aboard!November 11
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www.HyperionLED.com and BajaGringo were promoted to Level 2.November 11
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Running an electric oven is a HUGE load for these batteries, NiFe batteries have a high internal resistance, and the larger the load, the more power is wasted as internal self heating of the battery. i have 5kw PV, and 800ah of batteries, I can run a microwave for a couple minutes, but the voltage will crash.0November 11
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clockmanfran earned the Fifth Anniversary badge.Thanks for sticking with us for 5 years.November 10
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SolarKings earned the First Comment badge.Commenting is the best way to get involved. Jump in the fray!November 10
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